Author Topic: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown (Read 3796632 times)

Fraser · « **Reply #6850 on:** April 25, 2015, 05:48:29 pm »

My Sony Charger lead is a 'straight through' 4 pin to 4 pin USB data/charge lead. The Chargers do not have the data pins shorted or connected in any way.

Have you asked the seller why the original charger is not provided ? Get him to either find it or explain its absence. Keep a record of the sellers details as sadly thermal cameras do go 'missing' if you know what I mean

Aurora

staze · « **Reply #6851 on:** April 25, 2015, 05:52:53 pm »

Hmm. Then I wonder what would cause the apple and nook chargers to not work. I know they put some resistors on the data lines to indicate current capacity. Hmm. Anyone else have a 10W Apple charger to try?

Fraser · « **Reply #6852 on:** April 25, 2015, 06:02:06 pm »

Just connected my iPad Air 2 charger (10W) to the E4 via the Sony USB cable. Worked fine.

What version of hardware have you got ? There may have been changes since my early units build

Have you tried a different cable ? Its a long shot but some cheap cables have very thin copper conductors with associated voltage drop if the E4 is trying to draw significant current (hope that makes sense) A 500mA limited charger may not suffer as much voltage drop in the cable as one that will permit a 2A current draw. Worth checking this out.

Aurora

staze · « **Reply #6853 on:** April 25, 2015, 06:30:42 pm »

I have what seems to be hardware 1.1, firmware 1.19.8 (haven't run the modifications yet (working on that now)).

I tried with two different cables (the flir cable, and another I had). The apple charger is a model A1357. But maybe Apple made some modifications....

Fraser · « **Reply #6854 on:** April 25, 2015, 06:40:48 pm »

My E4 is the same as yours with 1.19.8 firmware and 1.1HW ( I wrongly thought it was 1.0HW).

Time to ask the seller some awkward questions in my view. It may sound weird but I have to wonder whether the charging circuit has been damaged in some way. I can't think of a failure mode that would produce your symptoms but it is still a possibility, especially if your E4 will only charge at a slow rate rather than the normal fast charge rate of <3 hours.

Sorry that I cannot be of more help to you on this. The good news is that the Lithium Ion charger IC is a commercial off the shelf type. I have the IC ID for the external charger unit but not for the one inside the E4 which may be the same ?, I can't confirm this though.

Aurora

staze · « **Reply #6855 on:** April 25, 2015, 06:42:15 pm »

Eh, I'll keep poking around. Could be something I'm doing that's dumb.. will post back when I know more.

Bud · « **Reply #6856 on:** April 26, 2015, 04:35:50 am »

Quote from: Aurora on April 25, 2015, 10:10:12 am

They are also good for seeing the level of liquid gas in a bottled gas scenario

Yup, here is a proof of concept

taarau · « **Reply #6857 on:** April 26, 2015, 11:57:44 am »

I need a little bit help. I bought Flir E4 on March 2014. And installed hacked firware. Now I want to upgrade it. My device model is E4 1.1 and software version 1.19.8. Can you send me instructions link, what I have to use? On first post, there are very many instructions and I don't know what to use. Don't want to brick my device. I want resolution and menu hack.

joe-c · « **Reply #6858 on:** April 26, 2015, 02:16:46 pm »

Quote from: taarau on April 26, 2015, 11:57:44 am

...My device model is E4 1.1 and software version 1.19.8. .... On first post, there are very many instructions and I don't know what to use.

its the first link with Bold font weight... its called "Link to old firmware hack info for all 1.19.x versions b "

staze · « **Reply #6859 on:** April 27, 2015, 07:49:50 pm »

So, I might be an idiot. Not sure this is it, but I did get the unit charging on a newer iPad charger, with a good cable. One thing I noticed is the unit lights the screen when plugged in, but doesn't show the charging logo when "off" unless I press a button. Is that the normal behavior?

Fraser · « **Reply #6860 on:** April 27, 2015, 08:06:44 pm »

IIRC the battery charge symbol only appears when the camera is in sleep mode rather than fully off. As you may be aware the E4 is actually put into sleep mode by the on/off button. After a period of time it drops to the fully off condition to save the battery.

Your unit appears to be behaving normally in this respect.

Aurora

staze · « **Reply #6861 on:** April 27, 2015, 08:14:01 pm »

Cool. Okay. Thanks! Weird design choices on their part. Have to wonder what of them are because the unit runs WinCE. :/

Emoticon · « **Reply #6862 on:** April 28, 2015, 11:41:47 pm »

Has anyone in the US traveled domestically much with their TIC? I know things get way more complicated if you try to take one overseas. I'm considering bringing mine on a domestic trip, but the idea of putting something with a pistol grip and a trigger like the E series seems like it might not be such a good idea when running it through the X-ray and there would be no way I would trust a device like this to make it through check baggage without an airport employee to have a case of sticky fingers. Has anyone traveled with their E4? Has anyone been hassled?

Kuulapaa · « **Reply #6863 on:** April 29, 2015, 11:50:18 am »

Quote from: Emoticon on April 28, 2015, 11:41:47 pm

Has anyone in the US traveled domestically much with their TIC? I know things get way more complicated if you try to take one overseas. I'm considering bringing mine on a domestic trip, but the idea of putting something with a pistol grip and a trigger like the E series seems like it might not be such a good idea when running it through the X-ray and there would be no way I would trust a device like this to make it through check baggage without an airport employee to have a case of sticky fingers. Has anyone traveled with their E4? Has anyone been hassled?

It's a tool, a plastic tool to be precise and doesn't look anything like gun in X-ray.

I once saw some guns and they're different, metal and everything...
They look more like this

Detsorgsekalf · « **Reply #6864 on:** April 30, 2015, 08:28:36 am »

Greetings!
Is it possible to "upgrade" FLIR i3 to i7 with a firmware version 6.5.3?
I've done all things from post #6860, but it has no effect.

ixfd64 · « **Reply #6865 on:** May 01, 2015, 03:09:07 am »

FYI: here is an E4 for $750 on eBay if anyone is interested: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flir-E4-IR-camera-/261870746417

The seller has a rating of 1920 with 100% positive feedback.

Quote from: Detsorgsekalf on April 30, 2015, 08:28:36 am

Greetings!
Is it possible to "upgrade" FLIR i3 to i7 with a firmware version 6.5.3?
I've done all things from post #6860, but it has no effect.

There are two alternate guides linked from the first post. Have you tried those?

Chanc3 · « **Reply #6866 on:** May 01, 2015, 09:53:59 am »

Quote from: Detsorgsekalf on April 30, 2015, 08:28:36 am

Greetings!
Is it possible to "upgrade" FLIR i3 to i7 with a firmware version 6.5.3?
I've done all things from post #6860, but it has no effect.

You may have incorrectly put the wrong type of line break at the end of the .cfg file after the CRC01. You need to press SHIFT + ENTER.

I've been digging around on my T620 and found this line:

Code: [Select]

.caps.config.save.fastShoot bool false
at the top of the gui file it also has this:

Code: [Select]

#
# TODO:
# Fast shot?
#
# Image adjust minMax with fusion?
#
# Generated at 2011-09-21 17:38:24
#

So it looks like it is to be implemented at some point, but my question is, what is Fast shot?

drtoub3 · « **Reply #6867 on:** May 02, 2015, 11:42:33 pm »

Quote from: birkhgoff on April 15, 2015, 07:14:59 am

Hi friends! The some time ago I found the Android application for recording video from Flir Ex-series, it is UsbWeb (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.serenegiant.usbwebcamera&hl=en). This application support cameras resolution 320x240 and can record audio from internal mic of Android device.
I test and use this application with my smartphone Highscreen Boost II SE (Android 4.3) and resolution+menu hacked Flir E4 (1.2L,v.2.3.0).

very good news , i wanted to try something like this on my nvidia shield tablet instead of my laptop .

Do i need to set USB port on my cam on ....in fact i don't know ? you gave explanation about OTG cable but i'd like to know more about settings (software and cam) .

Thanks for your help .

drtoub3 · « **Reply #6868 on:** May 03, 2015, 07:13:33 am »

Finaly after few tests, i ve made it ! Very simple in fact , in the settings menu in the software on your tablet just set resolution to 320x240 exactly as You said above and voilà !

drtoub3 · « **Reply #6869 on:** May 03, 2015, 07:13:41 am »

Finaly after few tests, i ve made it ! Very simple in fact , in the settings menu in the software on your tablet just set resolution to 320x240 exactly as You said above and voilà !

Detsorgsekalf · « **Reply #6870 on:** May 04, 2015, 06:30:06 am »

Quote from: ixfd64 on May 01, 2015, 03:09:07 am

There are two alternate guides linked from the first post. Have you tried those?

Quote from: Chanc3 on May 01, 2015, 09:53:59 am

You may have incorrectly put the wrong type of line break at the end of the .cfg file after the CRC01. You need to press SHIFT + ENTER.

Thanks you all for all your advices! This forum is really great! Finally it works at resolution 120x120. The problem was in cfg files (there must be a single row below #CRCxxxxx string)

Chanc3 · « **Reply #6871 on:** May 05, 2015, 09:41:07 am »

Quote from: Detsorgsekalf on May 04, 2015, 06:30:06 am

Quote from: ixfd64 on May 01, 2015, 03:09:07 am
There are two alternate guides linked from the first post. Have you tried those?
Quote from: Chanc3 on May 01, 2015, 09:53:59 am
You may have incorrectly put the wrong type of line break at the end of the .cfg file after the CRC01. You need to press SHIFT + ENTER.
Thanks you all for all your advices! This forum is really great! Finally it works at resolution 120x120. The problem was in cfg files (there must be a single row below #CRCxxxxx string)

Glad you got it working!

47MHz · « **Reply #6872 on:** May 06, 2015, 09:30:35 pm »

Hi guys! Do you know is it possible to get analog video signal from E4 camera (just like in E40 series)?

Fraser · « **Reply #6873 on:** May 06, 2015, 09:36:56 pm »

E4 has no native composite video output.

You can achieve composite video by using an RPi as a USB to video interface.

This is detailed in another E4 thread on recording video from the camera.

Aurora

birkhgoff · « **Reply #6874 on:** May 08, 2015, 06:20:38 pm »

Quote from: drtoub3 on May 02, 2015, 11:42:33 pm

very good news , i wanted to try something like this on my nvidia shield tablet instead of my laptop .

Do i need to set USB port on my cam on ....in fact i don't know ? you gave explanation about OTG cable but i'd like to know more about settings (software and cam) .

Thanks for your help .

Thermal camera don't need any settings, don't need RNDIS mode. But it can be hacked to 320x240 pix resolution. The USB WEB application work on Androud v 4.3 (on v 4.0.1,v4.1 and v4.2.2 the application couldn't be install). At first, set in settings min. resolution QVGA (320x240) - enjoy! Other settings I think don't need any comments - it's simple


EEVblog Main Site	EEVblog on Youtube	EEVblog on Twitter	EEVblog on Facebook	EEVblog on Odysee

Poll

Has the hackabiliy of the E4 made you buy one :

Author Topic: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown (Read 3796632 times)

Share me