Author Topic: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown (Read 3790770 times)

kert06 · « **Reply #7250 on:** August 20, 2015, 08:55:36 pm »

hey

yesterday my camera started to show a spot, i haven't used this camera a lot, just casually doing shots here and there

what could be the cause of this? how can i fix this? warranty?

also this is a flir E4 with modified software (higher resolution image)

thank you

Fraser · « **Reply #7251 on:** August 20, 2015, 09:10:29 pm »

Panic not. It is a spec of dust on the mibrobolometer window.

It isn't that easy to clean though. The lease invasive route is via the lens mount.
Remove the lens by unscrewing it with one of the lens tools that have been designed on this forum.
Buy or borrow a large camera puffer air duster (not an aerosol type) The best ones for this task are a rubber rugby ball shape with a brass pointed nozzle. They are also sold for building site/DIY work... they are used to blow debris out of drill holes.
Blow the dust off of the microbolometer window that sits behind the square FFC shutter aperture. Take great care to not touch the microbolometer window with the air duster nozzle.
Refit the lens and adjust focus for best image near and far.

Where does the dust or spec come from ? The E4 is not built in a clean room and some dust and manufacturing swarf can exist within its case and float around over time and use.

Alternatively .... return the camera to FLIR for a clean. It will have its firmware upgraded to the latest version though.

Aurora

kert06 · « **Reply #7252 on:** August 20, 2015, 09:42:30 pm »

Thank you Aurora.

I'll clean it myself. I suspected it's dust, but not on the inside.

Fraser · « **Reply #7253 on:** August 20, 2015, 10:00:16 pm »

If its dust, it is behind the FFC shutter and will be on the microbolometer germanium/GASIR window. I have seen this type of issue many times.

Lens surface dust (on front or rear lens element) does not produce the well define spot.

I hope the air dusting solves the problem for you

All the Best with this task.

Aurora

bookaboo · « **Reply #7254 on:** August 21, 2015, 06:58:27 am »

I had dust on mine once, just appeared after I tore one of the newer ones down to check hardware differences (found none). I went the long way about it, dismantled (again) and cleaned with a camera sensor cleaning kit, I found that the air duster didn't shift it.
The kit was something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-PCS-Sensor-Cleaner-Cleaning-Swab-Kit-CMOS-CCD-DDR-15-for-APS-C-Camera-DC580-/371258849349?hash=item5670c07845

Aurora is better versed in these things than me and may be able to advise if the chemical cleaning of that particular sensor was a smart idea or not.

Pantheron · « **Reply #7255 on:** August 23, 2015, 06:04:27 pm »

Hello,

i bought an FLIR E4 Yesterday by Conrad electronic in Germany with FW 2.30 and the hacks Resolution + Menu (at this point Thanks to Fubar.gr) works like a charme

my targetnoisemk is 16.x.

Regards
Pantheron

OrBy · « **Reply #7256 on:** August 24, 2015, 01:46:37 pm »

Quote from: Bud on August 20, 2015, 06:23:03 am

Quote from: OrBy on July 18, 2015, 02:48:56 am
New spin on a old pic:

A crude copycat using my E4 and free ImageJ software ( stitching + Look Up Table )

Nice! I will play around with that when I get a bit more time.

Ben321 · « **Reply #7257 on:** August 29, 2015, 05:20:30 am »

Has FLIR yet created a countermeasure to the E4 320x240 resolution firmware mod? For example, have they replaced the chip in all newly manufactured E4 units with a Lepton (the old version) which actually does only have a physical 80x60 resolution? Or maybe they altered the firmware to now include encryption (or even a separate hardware encryption/decryption chip, that was not present in previous versions of the E4) to prevent unauthorized firmware from being used? Anybody here have a heads-up on if such countermeasures have yet been deployed by FLIR?

Fraser · « **Reply #7258 on:** August 29, 2015, 02:51:43 pm »

No to all of the above. The Ex series remain capable of 320x240. FLIR do not intend to retool for the E4 to use LEPTON. That will be a completely new camera model.

Aurora

Ben321 · « **Reply #7259 on:** August 29, 2015, 07:41:49 pm »

Quote from: Aurora on August 29, 2015, 02:51:43 pm

No to all of the above. The Ex series remain capable of 320x240. FLIR do not intend to retool for the E4 to use LEPTON. That will be a completely new camera model.

Aurora

They didn't even add encryption to it? I'd think they'd want to do that, out of fear that customers would stop buying the E8, in favor of buying an E4 and then hacking it.

Fraser · « **Reply #7260 on:** August 29, 2015, 09:47:19 pm »

They added encryption in firmware 2.3 ages ago. This was circumvented as you will see in this thread.

A professional user is unlikely to hack kit for official use. The general public are less likely to buy an E8.
This has been discussed in this thread.

Aurora

m4rkiz · « **Reply #7261 on:** August 30, 2015, 02:50:36 pm »

i usually do my homework, but it is 200+ pages from my last visit...

any new features since firmware 1.18.8 with hack 3 (6 nov 2013) which i currently have?

and another thing - for some reason plastic (i assume that it is some plastic as i can scratch it with a needle although i would swear that it is a glass judging by the cracks) that protect LCD on my camera has some (so far) small cracks, any other options than replacing it with some acrylic?

actually it is a bit strange - i always paid a lot attention to this camera, i don't have a single mark on the casing anywhere yet somehow i have a 2 cm crack and 2 smaller ones and i have no idea how or when that happened

Bud · « **Reply #7262 on:** August 31, 2015, 04:44:40 am »

Probably there was not any updates for that version. The last few months it was pretty much about 2.3.0, which was raped to the extent one would possibly never be able to use all of the features that were unlocked/added.

Uho · « **Reply #7263 on:** August 31, 2015, 05:59:10 pm »

I made a prototype of the lens holder. Look. Perhaps something can be done better.

m4rkiz · « **Reply #7264 on:** August 31, 2015, 09:15:48 pm »

interesting design, i would definitely go for some telephoto lenses if the price is right

i do have two macros for electronic work but some telephoto that would have 10-15m focus would be great for roof, gutters, chimneys inspections from the ground

and perhaps something with ~100m focus for spotting animals and such

Uho · « **Reply #7265 on:** September 01, 2015, 05:05:03 am »

The holder of the zoom lens. It remains conduct a test.
What price do you think is good? Lens X3.

Axelbert · « **Reply #7266 on:** September 01, 2015, 01:42:02 pm »

Hi to everybody.
Just "upgraded" my E30bx to E60, following the instruction provided.
I changed the conf.cfg file in the following directories:
FlashFS\system\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg
FlashFS\system\services.d\config.d\conf.cfg
FlashFS\system\ui.d\config.d\conf.cfg

What about the:
FlashFS\system\service\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg ?

In the E60goodies.zip I didn't find anything about it.
Can you help me ?

jumbo · « **Reply #7267 on:** September 04, 2015, 10:05:01 am »

Quote from: Axelbert on September 01, 2015, 01:42:02 pm

Hi to everybody.
Just "upgraded" my E30bx to E60, following the instruction provided.
I changed the conf.cfg file in the following directories:
FlashFS\system\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg
FlashFS\system\services.d\config.d\conf.cfg
FlashFS\system\ui.d\config.d\conf.cfg

What about the:
FlashFS\system\service\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg ?

In the E60goodies.zip I didn't find anything about it.
Can you help me ?

Please check this: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e40-upgrade-configuration/msg744366/#msg744366
I upgrade my camera from E30bx to E60bx, in attachment 2 or 3 post under last one you have my all conf.cfg
But I didnt touch conf.cfg from "FlashFS\system\service\appcore.d\config.d\conf.cfg", where do you red about modification this?

My question is, could someone write oryginal text from conf.cfc from E4? I have to send it back to flir but lost original conf.cfc
Is needet to change time to old on my PC when I will put conf.cfc on my camera?

Bud · « **Reply #7268 on:** September 04, 2015, 05:07:20 pm »

I do not think anyone else's conf file would work, since each one is encrypted with its own camera-specific key and then signed.

Fraser · « **Reply #7269 on:** September 04, 2015, 06:12:29 pm »

@ Jumbo,

Just send it back to FLIR as it is (hacked). FLIR do not care and just re flash it to the latest firmware and 80x60 resolution.

That is, of course, if the fault is not due to a botched hack.... In which case you will possibly get charged for the repair. Even if you were to install the original Conf file FLIR can see that the file system has been played with.

What is the fault on the camera ?

Aurora

jumbo · « **Reply #7270 on:** September 05, 2015, 08:30:09 pm »

Quote from: Bud on September 04, 2015, 05:07:20 pm

I do not think anyone else's conf file would work, since each one is encrypted with its own camera-specific key and then signed.

I would like only change customs to default

Quote from: Aurora on September 04, 2015, 06:12:29 pm

@ Jumbo,

Just send it back to FLIR as it is (hacked). FLIR do not care and just re flash it to the latest firmware and 80x60 resolution.

That is, of course, if the fault is not due to a botched hack.... In which case you will possibly get charged for the repair. Even if you were to install the original Conf file FLIR can see that the file system has been played with.

Aurora

I'm from west Europe and camera will be send to Estonia, maybe there is different?

Quote from: Aurora on September 04, 2015, 06:12:29 pm

@ Jumbo,

What is the fault on the camera ?

Aurora

Strange temperature if I compare with my new E30bx and E4 non hacked from my friend, the temperature sometimes is 4 or 5 degrees more. I thing is problem with calibration. I had this problem when I bought it more then one year ago and Flir in that time recalibrated E4 for me but maybe not too god.

Fraser · « **Reply #7271 on:** September 05, 2015, 11:39:21 pm »

The E4 is not temperature stabilised and relies upon an offset table to compensate for the drift in the microbolometer at differing ambient temperatures. The offset table is generic across all cameras and not 'tuned' to a particular microbolometers characteristics. FLIR advised me that some cameras will behave better than others at differing ambient temperatures. The table is centred on a microbolometer die temperature of 30 Degrees C.

5 degrees C is quite an error but common as you try to measure low temperatures approaching or below 0 Degrees C.

If FLIR have already carried out calibration on your camera since manufacture, it suggests you specific camera may be suffering a hardware related inaccuracy issue. As you will see above though, the E4 is not exactly an accurate piece of radiometric thermal imaging equipment but it should meet the basic spec at the stated ambient temperature. For accuracy, the offset table needs to be a custom map for a particular camera or the microbolometer needs to be temperature stabilised as in the case of my PM series cameras that used a Peltier element and closed loop stabilisation system.

Aurora

tomas123 · « **Reply #7272 on:** September 06, 2015, 11:26:54 am »

Quote from: Aurora on September 05, 2015, 11:39:21 pm

The table is centred on a microbolometer die temperature of 30 Degrees C.

It's possible, that Flir heat the microbolometer in low-cost cameras to 30 Degrees C?
After power-up the camera, there is a few minutes an asterik before the temperature values on the display.

After the manuell shut down the camera is a long time in standby modus (>30min).
In my E40 there is inside a red LED, visible through the SD card slot, which glow in standby modus.

Fraser · « **Reply #7273 on:** September 06, 2015, 12:46:12 pm »

@Tomas123

Not exactly.... The microbolometer is not actively heated. The microbolometer generates its own internal heat as a result of the on die electronics (ROIC etc) this self generated heat normally raises the die temperature to approximately 30 Degrees C. I say approximately as there is no control over the temperature. It just settles at an equilibrium point but this could be 28C or 32C, it cannot be held stable.

The offset table was centred on 30degrees C as that is the natural operating temperature of the die at normal ambient temperatures of around 20 Degrees C.

The reason for the tilde symbol next to the temperature reading after start-up is that the microbolometer die will be at ambient and needs time for its die to rise in temperature to the equilibrium point of around 30C. Until it hits that equilibrium the readings are not considered accurate as the offset table is not able to compensate.

All of the above comes from direct discussions with FLIR

With regard to the power down sequence on the camera. The camera drops back to a low power standby mode that facilitates a fast start. After a period of time the camera drops back to the full sleep mode that consumes minimal power. It takes longer to start from sleep as it is a cold boot rather than a warm boot from standby. It's very much like modern laptop behaviour.

Aurora

tomas123 · « **Reply #7274 on:** September 06, 2015, 02:16:57 pm »

thank you for your clarification


EEVblog Main Site	EEVblog on Youtube	EEVblog on Twitter	EEVblog on Facebook	EEVblog on Odysee

Poll

Has the hackabiliy of the E4 made you buy one :

Author Topic: Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown (Read 3790770 times)

Share me