Heads Up : Cheap Multimeter : Lidl UK (08/02/18)

[Specmaster]

It's basically why you don't go for the lowest bidder. I made the same mistake. Some guy turned up and said "I'll mow your lawn for a tenner". Thought fuck it, why not. Next thing I know there's 3 foot across holes all over it.

Back on Lidl, apparently an older relative has bought me one of these because "I'm into electronics and stuff". I appreciate the naive thought, I think. I'll get my hands on it soon.

Nice one [emoji16] no fear of me getting one though, not that I wouldn't if I didn't have other meters already. I generally find that their selection of tools are often worthy of closer inspection, I have a few of their's in my collection.

[Fungus]

I generally find that their selection of tools are often worthy of closer inspection, I have a few of their's in my collection.

And kitchen appliances. I've got quite a few of those as well. They're all in the "basic but works" camp but I've never had any problems. One power saw I bought my wife for Xmas had to go back under garantee but the process was painless.

Getting back to the meter: I think this one suits the target demographic perfectly, somebody at LIDL obviously understands multimeters.

Imagine if they'd asked one of us to specify a meter, there's no way it would have sold for 13 Euros.   

[Specmaster]

I generally find that their selection of tools are often worthy of closer inspection, I have a few of their's in my collection.

And kitchen appliances. I've got quite a few of those as well. They're all in the "basic but works" camp but I've never had any problems. One power saw I bought my wife for Xmas had to go back under garantee but the process was painless.

Getting back to the meter: I think this meter suits the target demographic perfectly, somebody at LIDL obviously understands multimeters.

Imagine if they'd asked one of us to specify a meter, there's no way it would have sold for 13 Euros. 

Yep, I've a few of their kitchen appliances and also a fan heater that my late mother purchased, their binoculars and spotter scopes are also excellent value, I have a pair of their binoculars that only cost £20 and my son had a pair of made by a company (well known brand name for their binoculars and cameras, costing over £100 and when we go to airshows etc, which pair does he prefer, yep, mine from Lidl's. The optics on them is just blows the other clean out of the water, the brand name begins with P and ends with a.

Thats why I never doubted for a single moment that their meter would be any less quality then the bino's. It can be seen that the case of the meter has been value engineered but still had the metal inserts for the screws though, and thats acceptable given its price point. Well done Lidl.

[Fungus]

Wouldn't it be best to turn the meter on for the diode test?

It actually makes no difference. 

Oh, great. Youtube has removed annotations so I can't fix it without replacing the entire video.

Edit: I just noticed there's a missing scene as well. I tested different color LEDs, it can just about light up a red one. 

[rsjsouza]

Wouldn't it be best to turn the meter on for the diode test?

It actually makes no difference. 

Oh, great. Youtube has removed annotations so I can't fix it without replacing the entire video.

Edit: I just noticed there's a missing scene as well. I tested different color LEDs, it can just about light up a red one. 

After they removed annotations, editing was put under much more scrutiny by me - corrections are impossible to be made unless you redo the whole thing or post another video correcting the first one...

[Fungus]

After they removed annotations, editing was put under much more scrutiny by me - corrections are impossible to be made unless you redo the whole thing or post another video correcting the first one...

I just re-shot that scene and added the missing scene with the LEDs. I'm encoding a whole new video to replace that one.

This video blogging thing isn't as easy as it looks.


Edit: New version uploaded. If you want to sit through it again that's up to you.

TLDR version: The meter can light up red and green LEDs, it can't light up blue or white ones.

[Fungus]

A shot of the PCB (taken from the video):



I forgot to mention the flux residue around the hand-soldered parts (power switch and buzzer). 

[Specmaster]

After they removed annotations, editing was put under much more scrutiny by me - corrections are impossible to be made unless you redo the whole thing or post another video correcting the first one...

I just re-shot that scene and added the missing scene with the LEDs. I'm encoding a whole new video to replace that one.

This video blogging thing isn't as easy as it looks.


Edit: New version uploaded. If you want to sit through it again that's up to you.

TLDR version: The meter can light up red and green LEDs, it can't light up blue or white ones.

Thats not that great a issue as there are many meters with the same problem.

[Fungus]

Thats not that great a issue as there are many meters with the same problem.

Yes. I mention in the video that the meter doesn't claim to be an LED tester.

It works fine as a diode tester.

[rsjsouza]

Hah, quite interesting: I just noticed the top right corner that the meter is All-Sun. Joe tested another meter of the same brand a while ago.

Thats not that great a issue as there are many meters with the same problem.

Yes. I mention in the video that the meter doesn't claim to be an LED tester.

It works fine as a diode tester.

In this topic the Keysight U127x/U128x still impress me, as they measure junction voltages of more than 3V. Most of the others I have tested (BM857, UT61E, UT136C) can still light up LEDs, but measure up to 2V.

[Specmaster]

Hah, quite interesting: I just noticed the top right corner that the meter is All-Sun. Joe tested another meter of the same brand a while ago.

Thats not that great a issue as there are many meters with the same problem.

Yes. I mention in the video that the meter doesn't claim to be an LED tester.

It works fine as a diode tester.

In this topic the Keysight U127x/U128x still impress me, as they measure junction voltages of more than 3V. Most of the others I have tested (BM857, UT61E, UT136C) can still light up LEDs, but measure up to 2V.

Seeing as the Keysight is in a completely different price league and also aimed at the electronic engineer I'd be very surprised if it didn't. For the price of the Keysight you could buy quite a few of Lidl meter.

[rsjsouza]

Hah, quite interesting: I just noticed the top right corner that the meter is All-Sun. Joe tested another meter of the same brand a while ago.

Thats not that great a issue as there are many meters with the same problem.

Yes. I mention in the video that the meter doesn't claim to be an LED tester.

It works fine as a diode tester.

In this topic the Keysight U127x/U128x still impress me, as they measure junction voltages of more than 3V. Most of the others I have tested (BM857, UT61E, UT136C) can still light up LEDs, but measure up to 2V.

Seeing as the Keysight is in a completely different price league and also aimed at the electronic engineer I'd be very surprised if it didn't. For the price of the Keysight you could buy quite a few of Lidl meter.

It was just an observation, not a "show off"

Believe me, the Keysight U1282A loses by a mile in certain aspects when compared to much cheaper meters such as the UT61E.

[Fungus]

In this topic the Keysight U127x/U128x still impress me, as they measure junction voltages of more than 3V. Most of the others I have tested (BM857, UT61E, UT136C) can still light up LEDs, but measure up to 2V.

My $20 ANENG 860B+ just lit up a white LED + diode in series (with a reading of 2.96V).

The voltage on the probes in diode mode is 3.2V so I'm guessing that's the limit.

[bd139]

Just tried on my U1241C. The thing quite happily lights up a blue, white and even UV LED. However it only reports up to about 3v drop (red, green, yellow all report a voltage).



I absolutely love that meter though.

[joeqsmith]

Finally got around to editing the video. It takes ages...

Edit: Video replaced with fixed version where I remembered to switch the meter on.

You get to the safety fuse, see the voltage and current rating and call it good.  The CE standards talk about the break currents for the various CAT environment.  I don't think these are going to disrupt a 10KA and up circuit.   Are they even filled or just have a ceramic body?  Any safety agency markings on them? 

Where was the boat test?  Where was the meter being dragged on a rope test?  lol.    Pull those fuses apart and lets see what a government agency feels is good enough to keep the general population safe in CAT III.

[Rbastler]

This looks quite a bit better, than the other Lidl meter I bought for shits and giggles and then threw away.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Fungus]

I don't think these are going to disrupt a 10KA and up circuit.

They don't have to for CAT III 300V.

[joeqsmith]

I don't think these are going to disrupt a 10KA and up circuit.

They don't have to for CAT III 300V.

I can't answer if they have to or not.  Apparently the government does not care as they have approved it. 

The IEC standards certainly cover fuses. I've posted this table before from 61010 showing the typical currents for the various CAT ratings.   This is why we have safety fuses.   As I suggested, I doubt your fuses have been certified.    Under Protection by uncertified current limitation devices...

Devices used for current limitation shall be capable of safely withstanding, dissipating, or
interrupting the energy that will be applied as a result of short-circuit current in the case of
REASONABLY FORESEEABLE MISUSE.

Break those fuses open or lets try putting 50KA through that meter and see what happens.

Almost forgot...       

[HKJ]

I suppose that table can be derated for lower voltages and internal resistance in the meter

[Fungus]

I suppose that table can be derated for lower voltages and internal resistance in the meter

...and because CAT III has at least one circuit breaker between you and the nearest substation.

If you live in a house where the mains sockets can demonstrably supply 50kA then I suggest you contact your electricity provider.

[markce]

The PCB and its components (bottom side) certainly looks better than I expected. And fuses are actually labelled 300V.

Reading the manual chapter "safety instructions" is quite funny. Even with overflow on a range your meter could be damaged! Good luck with Joe's test.
Nowhere in the manual is referred to IEC 61010.
It only states:
Overvoltage category     CAT III 300V (digital multimeter and test leads)

So only the voltage part of CAT III???

The good news is: it has 2 fuses and they are a regular size (though small).  You could most likely use Peaktech or other multimeter 300V FF fuses as replacement.

[Specmaster]

Now I'm not at all familiar with what the standard for CAT III is but it strikes me that maybe it is not a requirement for the meter to still be operable after seeing a fault of that magnitude but it is expected to be able to handle that size of fault safely without causing harm to the user? So if that is the case, then aren't we going ever deeper in to a rabbit hole that we don't need to?

Personally I'd be very happy if I was using the meter and it saw a fault of that size and in the process handling it safely it became part of the sacrifice, the meter is easy to replace.

[Gyro]

The PCB and its components (bottom side) certainly looks better than I expected. And fuses are actually labelled 300V.

Reading the manual chapter "safety instructions" is quite funny. Even with overflow on a range your meter could be damaged! Good luck with Joe's test.
Nowhere in the manual is referred to IEC 61010.
It only states:
Overvoltage category     CAT III 300V (digital multimeter and test leads)

So only the voltage part of CAT III???

The good news is: it has 2 fuses and they are a regular size (though small).  You could most likely use Peaktech or other multimeter 300V FF fuses as replacement.

The IEC61010 compliance reference is in the TÜV test certificate...

https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50366474?locale=en

[Specmaster]

The PCB and its components (bottom side) certainly looks better than I expected. And fuses are actually labelled 300V.

Reading the manual chapter "safety instructions" is quite funny. Even with overflow on a range your meter could be damaged! Good luck with Joe's test.
Nowhere in the manual is referred to IEC 61010.
It only states:
Overvoltage category     CAT III 300V (digital multimeter and test leads)

So only the voltage part of CAT III???

The good news is: it has 2 fuses and they are a regular size (though small).  You could most likely use Peaktech or other multimeter 300V FF fuses as replacement.

The IEC61010 compliance reference is in the TÜV test certificate...

https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50366474?locale=en

So thats it then, the meter does apparently fully meet all the requirements of CAT III 300v meter so the meter gets a big  even if it only gets it for value for money award as the review highlights, it does have one or two areas that could be improved to make it more suitable electronics use.

[Fungus]

The IEC61010 compliance reference is in the TÜV test certificate...

https://www.certipedia.com/certificates/50366474?locale=en

I just checked and can confirm that "PDM 300 B1" is the model number stamped on the back of my meter.

Good find!