How good is the UT61 series?

[technix]

I am wondering why are folks defaulting to thinking that I would be doing high voltage stuff... For me there is a voltage cap of 400Vrms on my projects (highest voltage in a mains-rated PFC circuit)

[Fungus]

I am wondering why are folks defaulting to thinking that I would be doing high voltage stuff...

Who said "high voltage"? I think everybody's talking about mains electricity.

For me there is a voltage cap of 400Vrms on my projects (highest voltage in a mains-rated PFC circuit).

I was about to say "don't use a Uni-T for that" then I remembered you've been using a DT890. A Uni-T is a big step up in safety.

[technix]

I am wondering why are folks defaulting to thinking that I would be doing high voltage stuff...

Who said "high voltage"? I think everybody's talking about mains electricity.

For me there is a voltage cap of 400Vrms on my projects (highest voltage in a mains-rated PFC circuit).

I was about to say "don't use a Uni-T for that" then I remembered you've been using a DT890. A Uni-T is a big step up in safety.

With the Fluke 87-V costing 20x more than the UT61E here I might stuck on that for a long while. But hey at least it have true RMS and computer connection features.

[wasyoungonce]

My UT61E has drifted out on calibration DC volts.  At 5.0V it reads ~ 4.6V....Now I have to get a precision voltage ref to fix it.   Its only ~ 1yr old.  Thing is now I don't trust it on other modes!

Might see if I can pick up a 2nd hand fluke but Australia is so expensive.  Probably have to go to fleabay USA.

[Fungus]

For everyone recommending a Fluke: check the price. A UT61E in western market sells at $50, while a used Fluke 87V is only $220, but in China, UT61E only sells at $25, and a Fluke 87V sells at at least $285.
Now, instead of 4.4x the price, it is 11.4x the price difference.

...and will last 20x longer!

PS: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+101

[Electro Detective]

If you're over the Uni-Too good to be true thing, and can't afford a Fluke,
then hopefully a Jaycar or Altronics store is not far away..

They have some decent meters with warranties, at any price point you need,
but don't expect the $20 meter that looks the same as the $80 one, to work as well  .

[wasyoungonce]

Hi gents Electro Detextive...yeah I have a qty of old Jaycar and DSE multimeters.  Funny enough my old digetech QM-1525 holds better accuracy than the UniT.

I will have to get a cheap precision reference for now but I will be looking for a Fluke.  Not the 17B+...although why not.  Yes it was for China market but hey...the price.     

[Fungus]

If you're over the Uni-Too good to be true thing

The UT61E has some good points but writing "CAT IV 600V" on the front is hard to forgive.

Interestingly: There are some UT61Es with a much lower CAT rating stamped on them.



CAT II / low-end CAT III seems a lot closer to the truth.

I will be looking for a Fluke.  Not the 17B+...although why not.

There's nothing wrong with the 17B+. It's not overloaded with features for the price but it's a very solid meter.

[wasyoungonce]

Mine says:
CATV 600V
CATIII1000V

[Fungus]

BTW, I'm never a fan of F15B+ as it doesn't have uA measurement

Yes it does!

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/iden/digital-multimeters/general-purpose-multimeters/fluke-15b+.htm?pid=78680

[Electro Detective]

Hi gents Electro Detextive...yeah I have a qty of old Jaycar and DSE multimeters.  Funny enough my old digetech QM-1525 holds better accuracy than the UniT.

I will have to get a cheap precision reference for now but I will be looking for a Fluke.  Not the 17B+...although why not.  Yes it was for China market but hey...the price. 

If you want a cheap decent Fluke in oz, take a look at 114, 115, 116 and 117.
One of them may have the bare bone basics you need, or buy two with different features to cover all bases.
They go cheap used, a pair might set you back 200>250?
People flog them to buy 87Vs or orange eye candy battery slurping display jobs, or getting out of the trade.
My 114 does the no brainer front line stuff unless I need the 87V, or have both going. 

fwiw I scored an unloved APPA 99111 which is nice and agrees with Fluke 87V in a side by side shootout,
and has Fluke style dual HRC fuses inside. You can get lower models cheap locally on Ebay sometimes (badged as Benning too) check the specs first!

BTW, all my 'decent' Jaycar meters I bought as Electro Noob are still kicking 20 years later, and up to spec
Cap meter, LCR, clamp, and a pair of $50 yellow peril multimeters (with transistor checker! lol) work great and won't be tossed any time soon.
Admittedly I have opened them all up and made sure they are 100% as they should be (no sweat shoppe production line oopsies) 

The 3 Tandy/RS ones before them are probably still ok too, lost one to battery leakage BS ages ago 

I keep all of them away from the mains unless necessary, and make sure I'm on the ball (no beer, and no phone rings from alien speak telemarketers about to get an unbelievable earful of insult HELL)  

[SkyMaster]

...  you can buy a DMM check and calibrate your UT61E every year. It doesn't need fancy special software to calibrate, just trimmers.
...

Is there a calibration procedure available for the UT61E?

 

[SkyMaster]

Is there a calibration procedure available for the UT61E?
 

No official ones, but you can play with pots randomly and see which does what.
Take a picture before touching anything so that you can fallback.
Here is an unofficial one: http://gushh.net/blog/ut61e-calibration/

Thank you. That one talks about adjusting the VDC mode, and I think there was a thread about replacing VR1, again to adjust the VDC mode. In my case VDC seems to be spot on, it is the resistance mode that would benefit improvement.

I think, for now, I will keep searching.

 

[P90]

...  you can buy a DMM check and calibrate your UT61E every year. It doesn't need fancy special software to calibrate, just trimmers.
...

Is there a calibration procedure available for the UT61E?

 

you calibrate it by throwing it against a concrete wall, and purchasing a fluke. 

just kidding...

you can usually find a data sheet on a particular dmm chipset and use it to find out what the various trimmers adjust.

[stj]

i dont know why people keep talking about fluke meters like they last forever,
a friend has a few 77's
all needed new zebrastrip and one needed a new display glass.

[P90]

i dont know why people keep talking about fluke meters like they last forever,
a friend has a few 77's
all needed new zebrastrip and one needed a new display glass.

Flukes are nothing special, just like any other decent meter they last as long as you take care of them, and also depends on temperature and environmental conditions. I've replaced several zebra strips and couple LCD's on Flukes over the years. Also I've had a couple 80 series with brittle shit plastic with broken clips and standoffs.  Fluke is somewhat overrated in my opinion, it's just another meter.

[SkyMaster]

you calibrate it by throwing it against a concrete wall, and purchasing a fluke. 

just kidding...

I have several brands of multimeters, among them I have three Fluke.  I am flying 50,000 feet above the "Fluke versus other brands" war 

you can usually find a data sheet on a particular dmm chipset and use it to find out what the various trimmers adjust.

Thank you for the tip, I will look into this.

 

[Muxr]

i dont know why people keep talking about fluke meters like they last forever,
a friend has a few 77's
all needed new zebrastrip and one needed a new display glass.

Flukes are nothing special, just like any other decent meter they last as long as you take care of them, and also depends on temperature and environmental conditions. I've replaced several zebra strips and couple LCD's on Flukes over the years. Also I've had a couple 80 series with brittle shit plastic with broken clips and standoffs.  Fluke is somewhat overrated in my opinion, it's just another meter.

I replaced a few zebra strips on them as well, but they were 15-20 years old or something. I have an old 87 (non V) that's probably 20 years old now, and still in spec.

I have some older Flukes like the 8060a which still work without any repairs (although should probably be recapped), and those are 30+ years old also still in spec.

The thing is Fluke meters are pretty great barring some exceptions, they are generally well built. In some instances the build quality could be better, but it's never downright cheap, they never just skimp on stuff. Features also tend to be well implemented. I mean, what year is it? And you still can't expect a fast latching continuity test from most DMMs?

Do they have the best build quality? Probably not, there are exceptions, but the quality is still pretty solid. Some Fluke meters have brass threads on all the screws (28II) some like the 87V don't. But most other meters don't either.

You also have to realize you're comparing 20+ old Flukes to today's meters. Plastics and manufacturing has gotten better since then. 

The thing with Fluke however is that it's a known quantity, for the most part you know what you're getting, and there is a long track record of reliability, stability and sure some problems behind them.

That's not to say that an Agilent, Brymen, Metrahit.. won't get you something better for your needs, but Fluke's reputation is undeniable.

[wasyoungonce]

Ok tested mu UT61E against 3 other multimeters I have (cannot find the 4th!)...

Urrrrgggghhh...my UT61E is way out on voltage.  9.1V @ 10V in.  Ok granted I do not have a precision reference just a PSU with inbuilt meter, but the other meters are within .05 ~ .03V of 10V!

Damn I'll have to get a precision reference now!   It should have not drifted that far out in a year! 

edit:
Actually I purchased this in 2015!

[Muxr]

I just decided to measure my UT61E using the cheap ebay AD584 reference.

Code: [Select]

"2.498"
"4.998"
"7.497"
"9.996"I had recorded the values in May 2015 (so 2 years ago).. and it hadn't drifted at all, like not a single digit. Pretty impressive actually.

Same reference on my KEI2015

Code: [Select]

"2.50047"
"5.00087"
"7.50063"
"10.00027"
I do have to say though, I never use my UT61E. It just sits in one of the bins in case I want to use its logging capability. So this is with barely any use between measurements.

Also as I mentioned I do really like its form factor. Small and very sturdy on the bench, also the screen is great.

[stj]

i suspect it's not "drift" but being bumped around causing the multi-turn preset to shift a bit.
those things arent the most stable devices.

[Muxr]

i suspect it's not "drift" but being bumped around causing the multi-turn preset to shift a bit.
those things arent the most stable devices.

It's likely mechanical stress related as you put it.

[P90]

i suspect it's not "drift" but being bumped around causing the multi-turn preset to shift a bit.
those things arent the most stable devices.

Quite possibly...
A bit of nail polish fixes that... LOL

[technix]

I wonder how good a reference some used ADR02B and ADR03B are. Maybe I can perform routine calibration use those.

[Fungus]

Is there a calibration procedure available for the UT61E?

 

Just turn the big blue pot until it agrees with something known.

Urrrrgggghhh...my UT61E is way out on voltage.  9.1V @ 10V in.  Ok granted I do not have a precision reference just a PSU with inbuilt meter, but the other meters are within .05 ~ .03V of 10V!

eg. Three other meters that are in agreement over a voltage.