Is there a better meter for $10.95??

[jayjr1105]

Was about to fall asleep the other night and ebay popped up a notification on my phone about "One item left!" of the unbranded Aneng 8008 for $11.  It never tempted me before @ $22 so naturally at this price, I took the bait...

And this thing is pretty awesome.  I love how small it is, has a nice long backlight timeout and the 9999 counts is fantastic.  Beside all that, this thing's accuracy is stupidly good for $11.  Only off reading was with my Adafruit LM4040 reference where it read 4.092 on the 4.096v rating.  Cleaned up the probes with 1500grit sandpaper and continuity is as fast as by BK.

Obviously you don't want to go probing around commercial or industrial mains with this, but for a quick spot check on residential 120v, it's fine.

Hobbyists look no further.

https://imgur.com/a/vp4qS (gallery shows reference voltage testing 10v, 7.5v, 5v. 2.5v 4.096v, 2.048v)

[GreyWoolfe]

I have an 8009 and a backup 8008 in my company van.  I got them for the same reason, small size and stupidly good accuracy.  I did replace the factory leads with some Brymen gold plated.  For my purposes, they are as accurate as my GW-Instek GDM-8251A 5.5 digit bench meter.  Basically low resistance pass/fail in FRUs-15R good, 30R bad and under 1R good, over 1R bad.  I recommended both to my fellow field service techs.  At $20, If I accidentally leave it behind and someone else covets it, it's not a major loss.  There is another seller listing them for $12.99

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9999-Counts-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-True-RMS-Tester-Auto-Range-Square-Wave-Output/292356878044?hash=item4411d3eedc:g:KE8AAOSwoX5asNcf


EDIT: There is a seller that has 3 at $10.95--  https://www.ebay.com/itm/True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-9999-Counts-Auto-Range-Tester-Square-Wave-Output-LCD/192453205002?hash=item2ccf1adc0a:g:qvcAAOSwl7NasNax

[Lightages]

First: DO NOT CLEAN YOUR PROBES WITH ABRASIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes you might clean off anything coating the probes but you also remove any metal coatings like chrome and nickel and are you are likely to cause long term problems with oxidation. Use 000 steel wool instead. This will scrape off the residue from mold release and other crap and leave the probes mostly undamaged.

Second: I am skeptical. Cheap is cheap and I find it hard to believe that a $11 meter is to be relied upon as much as a meter costing tens times as much. Yes there can be bargains, but 

[maginnovision]

The readings generally seem to be fine. Safety, reliability, and ruggedness are low, and theybusually have few if any real features. Until they can improve everything they're lacking the reliable readings(at least new) seem to be their strong point. Still plenty of seperation between 10$ and 500+$ in the handheld DMM market.

[GreyWoolfe]

Second: I am skeptical. Cheap is cheap and I find it hard to believe that a $11 meter is to be relied upon as much as a meter costing tens times as much. Yes there can be bargains, but 

Depends on your usage.  Mine might see some low DC voltages.  I may actually have have to measure mains voltage once or twice.  Mine will mostly see resistance.  Perfect for me.  Use it within its capabilities and no more.

[ez24]

I love these meters.  Seems I heard that there are counterfeits?

But I bought one to compare with my others.

[jayjr1105]

First: DO NOT CLEAN YOUR PROBES WITH ABRASIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes you might clean off anything coating the probes but you also remove any metal coatings like chrome and nickel and are you are likely to cause long term problems with oxidation. Use 000 steel wool instead. This will scrape off the residue from mold release and other crap and leave the probes mostly undamaged.

Do you realize at 1500 grit, I would have to sit there for hours to grind down below the chrome or nickel plating.  I understand your concern, but 1500 is nothing.  I know this because I've lapped the heat spreader on numerous CPU's.  It would take hours starting as low as 600 grit before the nickel plating would start to give way to the copper underneath it.  A quick wipe with something as high as 1500 automotive will do nothing to harm a probe.

[ebastler]

I love these meters.  Seems I heard that there are counterfeits?

We have had this discussion before, about the Rigol DS1054Z scopes: Who would counterfeit a product that is already produced and marketed for the lowest possible price? If you want to make some margin, go fake a Fluke... 

[james_s]

I don't know if the meters are counterfeit but there are counterfeits of <$1 transistors so it wouldn't surprise me. A Fluke is going to get a lot more scrutiny than a $10.95 meter.

I don't have this specific model but I do have a couple of cheap DMMs I keep in my cars. They're good enough for low voltage work and if I lose one it's not a big deal. I certainly wouldn't choose one over my Fluke though.

[VEGETA]

I bought the ANENG 8002 one from Banggood then I got ANENG 8009. I tried 8002 and seemed nice but I guess it is not accurate in terms of capacitance reading which is a bummer. I didn't try it myself but someone I trust did and he said it seemed not good. He tested good and bad caps and results were not satisfactory.

What about your experience testing capacitance with it?

I think these meters are worth it, really! I got them for about 20$ and they have everything. I don't work on AC so it is enough for me.

[Agent24]

Second: I am skeptical. Cheap is cheap and I find it hard to believe that a $11 meter is to be relied upon as much as a meter costing tens times as much. Yes there can be bargains, but 

To play Devil's advocate: My Dick Smith Q-1419 (Mastech 830B) was $19.99 on special many years ago. It still works fine. Just tested it measuring a battery charger. Both it and my Fluke 73 showed 4.21v. Random resistor measurement, 54.6 Ohm vs 54.7 Ohm. Measuring 100mA on 10A range - 0.10A on both meters. Only diode mode is a bit out: 630mV (DSE) vs 579mV (Fluke) - but perhaps that's just due to different test voltage/current.

Given the rapid improvements in electronics, if we can't make a meter just as good or better than an 830B, for the same price or less twenty years later, then something is wrong.

[VEGETA]

First, I wanted to get Extech ex330 as it won 50$ shootout. However, it is not true RMS which is the only downfall for me. Is there any nice 50$ meter with auto-ranging and true RMS along with features in aneng 8009? The only one near it is EX430 which is 70$ or so, but not as beautiful as 330 xD.

[Lightages]

I want to be clear that I am not saying one should not buy this meter. I am merely stating that a comparison to a meter 10 ties the price is a bit of a stretch. The Aneng meters seem to be good buys as long as one keeps in mind that they are cheap meters. Yes electronics has come a long way but they still have mechanical components too. For what they are the price is very good. If you can't afford $50 or $100 they look great for general electronics use and probably outclass the cheap Uni-T meter I reviewed.

[jayjr1105]

First, I wanted to get Extech ex330 as it won 50$ shootout. However, it is not true RMS which is the only downfall for me. Is there any nice 50$ meter with auto-ranging and true RMS along with features in aneng 8009? The only one near it is EX430 which is 70$ or so, but not as beautiful as 330 xD.

You could go the Uni-T route.  Either UT139C for $30-40 or UT61E for $40-50.

[Johnboy]

I have an 8009 and a backup 8008 in my company van.  I got them for the same reason, small size and stupidly good accuracy.  I did replace the factory leads with some Brymen gold plated.  For my purposes, they are as accurate as my GW-Instek GDM-8251A 5.5 digit bench meter.  Basically low resistance pass/fail in FRUs-15R good, 30R bad and under 1R good, over 1R bad.  I recommended both to my fellow field service techs.  At $20, If I accidentally leave it behind and someone else covets it, it's not a major loss.  There is another seller listing them for $12.99

https://www.ebay.com/itm/9999-Counts-LCD-Digital-Multimeter-True-RMS-Tester-Auto-Range-Square-Wave-Output/292356878044?hash=item4411d3eedc:g:KE8AAOSwoX5asNcf


EDIT: There is a seller that has 3 at $10.95--  https://www.ebay.com/itm/True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-9999-Counts-Auto-Range-Tester-Square-Wave-Output-LCD/192453205002?hash=item2ccf1adc0a:g:qvcAAOSwl7NasNax

I looked at these ads and noticed that the Aneng brand and model number do not appear on the meters in the pictures. While I don't doubt that they could be generic copies from the same manufacturer, the high profile the AN8008 has reached has me wondering whether they aren't cheap(er) copies, with attendant lower quality parts and specs. This Aneng model wasn't even this cheap when it arrived on the scene, and the majority of 'legitimate' sellers are asking more now, not less. Counterfeiting a cheap meter is like counterfeiting a one-dollar bill, I guess... but why else wouldn't the picture show the brand name? 

I'll add that after reading many of the reviews and a fair portion of the information available about this recent wave of decently-performing-yet-potentially-dangerous cheap Chinese multimeters, I finally decided to purchase the ZT301. Although it doesn't have quite the precision of the AN8008 (at uV, at least), I prefer its design and features considering that there is hardly any difference in price. It hasn't arrived yet, but I'll weigh in when I've had time to test it out.

[Mr. Scram]

We have had this discussion before, about the Rigol DS1054Z scopes: Who would counterfeit a product that is already produced and marketed for the lowest possible price? If you want to make some margin, go fake a Fluke... 

Yet it happens all the time. There's always someone willing to ride someone else's coat tails and sacrifice safety for profit. After all, it's not your name on the line.

[GreyWoolfe]

I want to be clear that I am not saying one should not buy this meter. I am merely stating that a comparison to a meter 10 ties the price is a bit of a stretch. The Aneng meters seem to be good buys as long as one keeps in mind that they are cheap meters. Yes electronics has come a long way but they still have mechanical components too. For what they are the price is very good. If you can't afford $50 or $100 they look great for general electronics use and probably outclass the cheap Uni-T meter I reviewed.

For me, it wasn't a matter of what I could afford.  The meter will probably see almost no use.  The FRU I will test with it has a very low failure rate.  So, the meter will live in my toolbag with almost no use.  If it was going to be a daily driver, I would have spent more.  For the cost of the 2 of them and the Brymen leads, I could have bought a Fluke 101.  I have been known to very occasionally leave a tool behind and sometimes those tools disappear, that is why I have a spare.  I also agree, there is no way it can compare to a meter 10 times the price.  For me, they exceeded my expectations and do exactly what I need with very good accuracy.  Everyone else will have different needs and experiences.  YMMV is strong with these meters. 

[ebastler]

First, I wanted to get Extech ex330 as it won 50$ shootout. However, it is not true RMS which is the only downfall for me. Is there any nice 50$ meter with auto-ranging and true RMS along with features in aneng 8009? The only one near it is EX430 which is 70$ or so, but not as beautiful as 330 xD.

So what is missing in the Aneng 8009 for your needs? It does have true RMS. You did not mention a need to work on mains voltages (for which the Aneng should probably not be used, looking a its tiny fuses). If you don't need that, why not use the Aneng?

[Old Printer]

OK, I bit. $10.95 with free shipping and it is supposed to be here in a week. We will see, but what the hell, not much of a gamble. It is just for my bench and will not see more than 120V and usually much less than that. I like the backlit feature. My trusty RadioShack 22-812 RMS meter does not have that, and I like the smaller size. Thanks for the heads up!

[Johnboy]

I'll add that my only other working meter is a Fluke 115. So while it can handle some of the "heavier lifting", so to speak, covering these smaller ranges is not its thing-- it's more of an electrician's meter. So a smaller meter can inexpensively fill in those lower-range gaps, especially since it won't be trusted for anything hazardous-- and I have yet to spy any one meter in my price range that could "do it all" anyway. I will eventually need more meters to cover identical ranges (for checking current and voltage simultaneously, as an example).

[VEGETA]

First, I wanted to get Extech ex330 as it won 50$ shootout. However, it is not true RMS which is the only downfall for me. Is there any nice 50$ meter with auto-ranging and true RMS along with features in aneng 8009? The only one near it is EX430 which is 70$ or so, but not as beautiful as 330 xD.

So what is missing in the Aneng 8009 for your needs? It does have true RMS. You did not mention a need to work on mains voltages (for which the Aneng should probably not be used, looking a its tiny fuses). If you don't need that, why not use the Aneng?

accurate capacitance measurement and general better accuracy and robustness.

[jayjr1105]

accurate capacitance measurement and general better accuracy and robustness.

Get an LCR meter for accurate capacitance.  Even high end meters will be off with capacitance sometimes.  Accuracy you can achieve with a lot of sub $50 meters.  Robustness, TRMS plus the previous mentioned desires is a bit far fetched for $50 or less.

[bitseeker]

Following along to see how this no-name compares to the "original".

[Mr. Scram]

Get an LCR meter for accurate capacitance.  Even high end meters will be off with capacitance sometimes.  Accuracy you can achieve with a lot of sub $50 meters.  Robustness, TRMS plus the previous mentioned desires is a bit far fetched for $50 or less.

You'll mostly sacrifice safety, and probably long term stability.

[james_s]

I'm actually kind of surprised that TRMS hasn't become a standard feature in every >$10 meter by now. The electronics to implement it are not exotic, single IC solutions are a few dollars each from reputable companies, surely it could be baked into a low cost DMM on a chip solution?

[Fungus]

I'm actually kind of surprised that TRMS hasn't become a standard feature in every >$10 meter by now. The electronics to implement it are not exotic, single IC solutions are a few dollars each from reputable companies, surely it could be baked into a low cost DMM on a chip solution?

I agree. There's no good reason why not, even if it's only 8-bit accuracy.

Adding a fast 8-bit converter to a DMM chip would cost practically nothing.

Maybe next year we'll all be replacing our $15 ANENGs with a newer model. 

[Mark Hennessy]

has a nice long backlight timeout

Have they changed this at last? The sample I reviewed last year had a 15 second backlight timeout. Whereas the newer ZT301 is a much more useful 2 minutes...

[ebastler]

Maybe next year we'll all be replacing our $15 ANENGs with a newer model. 

Maybe we will, but not for want of True RMS. The Aneng meters already have that, right?

[james_s]

has a nice long backlight timeout

Have they changed this at last? The sample I reviewed last year had a 15 second backlight timeout. Whereas the newer ZT301 is a much more useful 2 minutes...

Sure would be nice if it would just stay on until turned off. Let me decide how much battery life I want to sacrifice, it's super annoying to have something time out and turn off while I've got both hands full trying to probe something in a dark corner.

[Fungus]

Maybe next year we'll all be replacing our $15 ANENGs with a newer model. 

Maybe we will, but not for want of True RMS. The Aneng meters already have that, right?

The ones I've seen only work at mains AC frequencies, ie. 50/60Hz. They really don't work above 1kHz - useless for audio measurements, etc.

Disclaimer: I don't own all of them.

[precaud]

The ones I've seen only work at mains AC frequencies, ie. 50/60Hz. They really don't work above 1kHz - useless for audio measurements, etc.

My ZT301 is -3dB @ 2.8kHz relative to 100Hz level...

[Fungus]

The ones I've seen only work at mains AC frequencies, ie. 50/60Hz. They really don't work above 1kHz - useless for audio measurements, etc.

My ZT301 is -3dB @ 2.8kHz relative to 100Hz level...

-3dB isn't an accurate reading for power calculations - it's about half the true value.

[coromonadalix]

well you have this one for 34$ usd,  seems in the same look a like casing : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Multimeter-SURPEER-20000-Counts-Multi-Capacitor-Tester-True-RMS-Auto/132454340648?epid=24012343675&hash=item1ed6e4d828:g:BkYAAOSw8DJaSwf2

but never saw an real teardown of it

dont expect at 10$ up to 40$  having an good input protection

[precaud]

-3dB isn't an accurate reading for power calculations - it's about half the true value.

Doesn't matter. It's the accepted standard by which we compare lo-pass bandwidths.

[Fungus]

-3dB isn't an accurate reading for power calculations - it's about half the true value.

Doesn't matter. It's the accepted standard by which we compare lo-pass bandwidths.

Sure - in oscilloscopes.

In multimeters we want the actual RMS value.

[precaud]

What are you talking about? Seems like you're making a distinction without a relevant difference.

[Cerebus]

-3dB isn't an accurate reading for power calculations - it's about half the true value.

Doesn't matter. It's the accepted standard by which we compare lo-pass bandwidths.

Sure - in oscilloscopes.

What ARE you quibbling about? Anybody who knows their way around electronics ought to understand what someone means when they describe the -3dB cutoff of an instrument relative to some centre band frequency. The -3dB point on a bode plot is for any circuit or device, it's got nothing especially to do with oscilloscopes. The whole -3dB thing is so fundamental and universal that it's baked into  basic formulae such as f = 1/2piRC.

In multimeters we want the actual RMS value.

Firstly dB are ratios, whether that is in Watts, Amps or, as in this case, rms Volts. Secondly, what is an actual Volts rms value going to tell you that "-3 dB" doesn't tell you faster? It's a fair sight easier to understand a ratio as 3 dB than be presented with two numbers and have to work out for yourself if and whether they are in the ratio 1/sqrt(2).

[HKJ]

I'm actually kind of surprised that TRMS hasn't become a standard feature in every >$10 meter by now. The electronics to implement it are not exotic, single IC solutions are a few dollars each from reputable companies, surely it could be baked into a low cost DMM on a chip solution?

It is a standard feature on new generation cheap DMM's and is baked into the DMM chip. Check the Aneng meters.
But the price is closer to $20.

[Fungus]

Firstly dB are ratios, whether that is in Watts, Amps or, as in this case, rms Volts. Secondly, what is an actual Volts rms value going to tell you that "-3 dB" doesn't tell you faster? It's a fair sight easier to understand a ratio as 3 dB than be presented with two numbers and have to work out for yourself if and whether they are in the ratio 1/sqrt(2).

I'm not saying that -3dB can't be applied to multimeters, I'm saying it's not useful to do so.

I think that "My 860B+ gives good readings up to 1kHz but not above that" is a useful fact to memorize.

"My ZT301 is -3dB @ 2.8kHz relative to 100Hz level" is less useful (what's the rolloff, where does it start?).

[Fungus]

What are you talking about? Seems like you're making a distinction without a relevant difference.

Ok, please explain to us why multimeter specifications don't list a -3dB point. 

eg. Here's the Fluke 87V manual, where's the -3dB point?

[Maxlor]

What matters to me is at which frequency a meter goes outside its advertized accuracy specifications. And a meter that specified +- 29% is not one I'd buy.

[Electro Detective]

I'd like to see how 'True'  these $10.95 car wheel chocs with al dente spaghetti quality leads read TRMS with a crappy sinewave
compared to a real TRMS meter

Come on guys, ask Santa or the Easter Bunny if he's still hopping about, to sort you out with a decent meter   


Hoping that many cheap meter lovers here don't also shop around for  OHL  $10.95 electric power tools and use the OHL $10.95 meter to troubleshoot them   

[HKJ]

I'd like to see how 'True'  these $10.95 car wheel chocs with al dente spaghetti quality leads read TRMS with a crappy sinewave
compared to a real TRMS meter

On a 50Hz square wave:
DMM7510: 1.0000xx
Aneng AN870: 0.9958

On a 50Hz square wave with 10% duty cycle:
DMM7510: 0.5993xx
Aneng AN870: 0.5927

[Fungus]

I'd like to see how 'True'  these $10.95 car wheel chocs with al dente spaghetti quality leads read TRMS with a crappy sinewave
compared to a real TRMS meter

On a 50Hz square wave:
DMM7510: 1.0000xx
Aneng AN870: 0.9958

On a 50Hz square wave with 10% duty cycle:
DMM7510: 0.5993xx
Aneng AN870: 0.5927

What if you go higher frequency? Can the fancy 870 go above 1kHz?

[ebastler]

I'd like to see how 'True'  these $10.95 car wheel chocs with al dente spaghetti quality leads read TRMS with a crappy sinewave
compared to a real TRMS meter

Come on guys, ask Santa or the Easter Bunny if he's still hopping about, to sort you out with a decent meter   

Hoping that many cheap meter lovers here don't also shop around for  OHL  $10.95 electric power tools and use the OHL $10.95 meter to troubleshoot them   

Thank you for the golden words of wisdom, oh Professional One who can justify/afford an expensive meter...

[HKJ]

What if you go higher frequency? Can the fancy 870 go above 1kHz?

It is 5% down at around 2kHz, i.e. RMS is not really usable above a few 100Hz.

[Fungus]

What if you go higher frequency? Can the fancy 870 go above 1kHz?

It is 5% down at around 2kHz, i.e. RMS is not really usable above a few 100Hz.

I wouldn't call 5% "unusable", even the Fluke 87V is only 2% accurate at 2kHz.

My AN860B+ is about 12% down at 2kHz but quite linear up to that point so you could calculate a reasonably good value based on the reading shown on screen.

I made a graph::


I never really measure AC volts with that meter so I don't care. I have a meter that's 3% accurate up to 100kHz if I need one.

Edit: Fixed my graph!

[precaud]

Ok, please explain to us why multimeter specifications don't list a -3dB point. 
eg. Here's the Fluke 87V manual, where's the -3dB point?

I think you just enjoy being argumentative.
There's nothing wrong with either POV.

[Fungus]

I think you just enjoy being argumentative.

Ad hominem?

There's nothing wrong with either POV.

But I think we can assign different weights to them, based on context.

[Cerebus]

I think you just enjoy being argumentative.

Ad hominem?

Surely that should be ad fungum? Anyway, we all know you do like being, let's say, disputatious.

[precaud]

But I think we can assign different weights to them, based on context.

Sure. And the context, for me, is:
I rarely use a meter like this for measuring single AC waveforms of anything other than mains-voltage-related.
My almost sole use for a meter of this size is for basic troubleshooting.
I can set it right next to the point being measured and view it through the Luxo Wave magnifier while I probe around, without looking up or away.
For me, it is more useful (and easy) to remember the meter's -3dB BW. I'll know not to use it to trace signals through a circuit above that freq. And I'll know what the BW limiting is when measuring noise.
For stuff like this, TrueRMS vs averaging converters makes no difference. I'm just looking for the presence vs absence of something, not trying to accurately characterize it with high precision. There are better tools for that.

Your context may be different.

[maginnovision]

But I think we can assign different weights to them, based on context.

Sure. And the context, for me, is:
I rarely use a meter like this for measuring single AC waveforms of anything other than mains-voltage-related.
My almost sole use for a meter of this size is for basic troubleshooting.
I can set it right next to the point being measured and view it through the Luxo Wave magnifier while I probe around, without looking up or away.
For me, it is more useful (and easy) to remember the meter's -3dB BW. I'll know not to use it to trace signals through a circuit above that freq. And I'll know what the BW limiting is when measuring noise.
For stuff like this, TrueRMS vs averaging converters makes no difference. I'm just looking for the presence vs absence of something, not trying to accurately characterize it with high precision. There are better tools for that.

Your context may be different.

So the -3db point doesn't matter to you either it's just a boolean value. I think it's useful to stick to a multimeters traditional ratings when specifying things. Since everything is supposed to be an absolute value in relation to ground it's better to specify error% + counts in reading.

[precaud]

So the -3db point doesn't matter to you either

For how I would use this meter, that is essentially correct. The BW demands are minimal. Your basic 2000-count 400Hz converter would be good enough.
If a meter doesn't offer a dB readout in ACV mode, there's no reason for them to specify its performance in those terms.
But I don't want to memorize (% reading error + counts) vs frequency for every DMM I use. The number that I remember is the -3dB number. That works for me. To each their own.

[Electro Detective]

The realistic better meter is going to cost $21.90

i.e. better buy two of these Anus8xxx or rebadged suss meters to confirm that one, or the other, or none, or both (...wishful thinking) are working

Bonus: you'll have two sets of iffy leads to try and cobble up one working pair that actually mate with the meter (at a certain position and insertion force)
whilst praying for no intermittent strand breaks  ( =>    )


and don't go near electricity or charged capacitors with them, or it's another $10.95 or $21.90 to pry out of the retro piggy bank,   

or take piggy along with you in case the doctor and his brother the eye surgeon next door, want a piece of the '$10.95' action too       


Edit: if you really must buy these OHL meters to prove someone wrong or you just feel 'lucky'  and or uncurable serial cheapskate
at least save some pennies/cents/pick a currency  and buy a real meter (like the little blue EEVblog model) 

and kept in reserve for those times you don't feel like crossing your fingers on a task   

[maginnovision]

The realistic better meter is going to cost $21.90

i.e. better buy two of these Anus8xxx or rebadged suss meters to confirm that one, or the other, or none, or both (...wishful thinking) are working

Bonus: you'll have two sets of iffy leads to try and cobble up one working pair that actually mate with the meter (at a certain position and insertion force)
whilst praying for no intermittent strand breaks  ( =>    )


and don't go near electricity or charged capacitors with them, or it's another $10.95 or $21.90 to pry out of the retro piggy bank,   

or take piggy along with you in case the doctor and his brother the eye surgeon next door, want a piece of the '$10.95' action too       


Edit: if you really must buy these OHL meters to prove someone wrong or you just feel 'lucky'  and or uncurable serial cheapskate
at least save some pennies/cents/pick a currency  and buy a real meter (like the little blue EEVblog model) 

and kept in reserve for those times you don't feel like crossing your fingers on a task   

Thank god I have my an870's then!

[maginnovision]

I want to remind everyone that this is a thread about a $10.95 meter. I shouldn't be, but I am, constantly amazed at how a discussion like this can go down a path about some characteristic, some minor characteristic, in minute detail.

Anyone for whom the -3dB point of a true RMS acV measurement is vitally important isn't going to have this meter as their only option.

It is enough to hope they know enough to not poke it into a mains socket.

I have one and it is incredibly useful for measuring resistors to ensure I put them in the right place. I rarely need to make AC measurements. I have my BM235 for that.

I do agree but I also find characterizing the meters to be interesting. 1. More work is being done than the designer likely did. 2. It's never a bad idea to know how accurate the numbers your meters give you are for when the number matters. 3. It's fun to see how they evolve(and don't).

[GreyWoolfe]

The realistic better meter is going to cost $21.90

i.e. better buy two of these Anus8xxx or rebadged suss meters to confirm that one, or the other, or none, or both (...wishful thinking) are working

Bonus: you'll have two sets of iffy leads to try and cobble up one working pair that actually mate with the meter (at a certain position and insertion force)
whilst praying for no intermittent strand breaks  ( =>    )


and don't go near electricity or charged capacitors with them, or it's another $10.95 or $21.90 to pry out of the retro piggy bank,   

or take piggy along with you in case the doctor and his brother the eye surgeon next door, want a piece of the '$10.95' action too       


Edit: if you really must buy these OHL meters to prove someone wrong or you just feel 'lucky'  and or uncurable serial cheapskate
at least save some pennies/cents/pick a currency  and buy a real meter (like the little blue EEVblog model) 

and kept in reserve for those times you don't feel like crossing your fingers on a task   

I guess it must be nice to have a stack of HP 3458As around to measure everything exactly as you want and as safely as you want.     For some, that may be all that they can afford even after saving for awhile.  May be that some of us have also support the stepdaughter, husband and grandkids.  May be some of us are actually serial cheapskates.  May be that some of us will use one once a year to check some low resistances on a service call and don't see the need to spend the money on the little blue meter when they already have better handheld and bench meters that are simply too big to fit in the toolbag. 

Instead of being an arse about peoples' choices, be kind and make sure that they fully understand the limitations of their device so they don't become another statistic.  Courtesy has nothing to do with what part of the world you're from or what your particular society is about, you simply get more flies with honey than you do with vinegar.

[ez24]

Got my meter.  Cannot tell the difference between it and the 8008.

Ordered another on - thanks OP

[Cerebus]

May be some of us are actually serial cheapskates.

Recognizing something that is good enough is a valuable skill. Buying the cheapest technically suitable ought to be a badge of honour.

You're not originally from Aberdeen are you? 

The trick is to be a patient cheapskate. I have a nice collection of high quality, second hand test gear, plastered with names like HP, Fluke, Keithley, TTi, and so on, with no individual item costing me more than £60 GBP plus postage. The trick is being prepared to wait for the right thing to turn up, at the right price and being passingly competent at calibrating things. This week's acquisition was a Systron Donner 10MHz pulse generator for the princely outlay of £15 GBP plus postage (This one may be a fixer-upper, I'll find out on Monday).

[Electro Detective]

My apologies if my comment offended any serial cheapskates,
chill guys, hey I'm one of you, well a part timer anyway.     

but seriously, I would not recommend these car wheel chocs to young players, DIY-ers, clueless tradies
or cheapskate electronics euthanasiaists enthusiasts

They are not a WYSIWYG item, unless you have a pair to confirm they work properly,
better make that 10, and score a bulk pack discount lol

and whether you choose to accept it or not, one day these pocket sized ticking time b0mbs will be misused in one of the dumbass or brainfart or 'don't try this at home...' methods discussed at many posts at this forum,
either by the owner or an unaware 'borrower' 


Meters and cables/leads are one item I never go cheap on, because I can't SEE or sense if something is amiss or the readings false.
They don't have to be a top shelf Fluke    or a trailing competition brand to be a decent affordable meter

My mid price 'student pocket money friendly' Tandy/RS and Jaycar meters from 20 years back are still going strong and read on the money,
where will these cheapos be in 10 years?

assuming the leads make it past six months without drama, and the 'suspect meter' gets the blame and the lot binned     


Please consider   

[Johnboy]

The realistic better meter is going to cost $21.90

i.e. better buy two of these Anus8xxx or rebadged suss meters to confirm that one, or the other, or none, or both (...wishful thinking) are working

Bonus: you'll have two sets of iffy leads to try and cobble up one working pair that actually mate with the meter (at a certain position and insertion force)
whilst praying for no intermittent strand breaks  ( =>    )


and don't go near electricity or charged capacitors with them, or it's another $10.95 or $21.90 to pry out of the retro piggy bank,   

or take piggy along with you in case the doctor and his brother the eye surgeon next door, want a piece of the '$10.95' action too       


Edit: if you really must buy these OHL meters to prove someone wrong or you just feel 'lucky'  and or uncurable serial cheapskate
at least save some pennies/cents/pick a currency  and buy a real meter (like the little blue EEVblog model) 

and kept in reserve for those times you don't feel like crossing your fingers on a task   

I found this funny as hell and not offensive in the least. My sinuses are still recovering from the onslaught of soft-drink through the nasal passages.

It would be great if we could all afford Gossen M30's, but of course most of us just can't. And having hands-on experience with a variety of meters is valuable to me (even with cheap meters), because if I were to spend money on something more top-end and full-featured, I wouldn't know what to pick. Anyone who buys a Fluke 87V as their first meter (and plenty of electricians do, to say nothing of electronics techs or hobbyists) is unlikely to be interested in the feature set of ten-dollar meters from China.

The main issue with this [unbranded] AN8008, and other similarly priced meters, is that they are not safe to work with the voltage standards they claim for safety on their face, as has been stated here and elsewhere every time they come up in conversation. Putting that aside, they seem fine for low-voltage hobby projects, and possibly might be useful as a throwaway even in some other situations-- but it depends on the individual.

I'm as interested as some others in this thread about where this new market is leading itself. Will we all live to see an Aneng 500,000 count meter for ten dollars? And by then, will anyone still be interested, or will those consumers largely be modding a two-dollar meter that has 20,000?

[precaud]

I'm as interested as some others in this thread about where this new market is leading itself.

I agree, that's the more interesting question. But this "new market" is not just cheap-DVM-specific. I think what we're seeing is the use of sites like eBay by manufacturers and large retailers to rid themselves of excess inventory and manufacturing overruns. I've encountered this several times. Most recently, I bought a programmable calculator a couple months ago.  Best price I found was by an ebay vendor with some innocuous-sounding name. It was a new item in the sealed retail package, so I ordered it. It arrived two days later in a padded envelope with a "Sam's Club" return address. The receipt inside was from a Sams Club warehouse in the Denver area. They were selling the item on eBay cheaper than they sell it in their own stores.

My hunch is, these brandless AN8008's will be available until they sell out.

[edavid]

I bought a meter from one of the $10.95 listings.  The meter is unmarked, but the box says Bside ZT109.  Shipping was very fast.

OP, thanks very much for pointing these out.

[Electro Detective]

I'm as interested as some others in this thread about where this new market is leading itself.
Will we all live to see an Aneng 500,000 count meter for ten dollars?
And by then, will anyone still be interested,

or will those consumers largely be modding a two-dollar meter that has 20,000?

If the cheapo meter circuit isn't incorporated into morebile phones as a  "pay as you probe" app by then, chances are high no one will need a meter in 10 / 20 years anyway,

not even for testing batteries, they'll have their own on board VOM and ESR gimmickry and 'buy a new one' leaking chemical sabotagery

everything else will be plug and play and bin... or sent back to Sweatshoppe Support Services Inc or their local rep for a refurb / changeover 


Electronic forum discussions will degenerate morph to which 666 inch 'Home Arena' Wall TV to buy,
the OHL knockoff on sale or the latest OHL Gen 11,
who are good or suss Ebay sellers, Amazon deals...

which car is smarter, and less likely to bug out and plough into a crowd of zombied jeering drunk sports addicts herding along home on the main road   

how to update the firmware chip on the back of your neck
and ensure it's diagnostic program and wireless sync is the current version on your smartphone

with the latest anti-virus and firewall updates,
and any hacks to unlock all your memory   

 
yeah, brave new world just around the corner, 

start ditching those meters now before you get seen with one in the future to check a fence wire for continuity,
and sold out by a snotty neighbor after complaining about their stupid dog barking 24/7 and dr0pp!ng b0mbs in your pool and front door, 

you may get yourself apprehended by the Thought Police     


 

 

[bugi]

...
Electronic forum discussions will degenerate morph to which 666 inch 'Home Arena' Wall TV to buy,
...

Pretty much certain that won't be happening. Considering the rising costs of houses/apartments, there will be a limit in size and that limit will decrease over time   Maybe 120 inch, though, it might just about fit in..

[Fungus]

assuming the leads make it past six months without drama

Mine have!

[Fungus]

I bought a meter from one of the $10.95 listings.  The meter is unmarked, but the box says Bside ZT109.  Shipping was very fast.

Sounds like somebody found a few crates of meters and is undercutting everybody else to offload them.

( Or maybe there's a new generation waiting and they're clearing out stock of the old ones.  )

[precaud]

I bought a meter from one of the $10.95 listings.  The meter is unmarked, but the box says Bside ZT109.  Shipping was very fast.

Sounds like somebody found a few crates of meters and is undercutting everybody else to offload them.

( Or maybe there's a new generation waiting and they're clearing out stock of the old ones.  )

The ZT109 shows as "discontinued" on Banggood...

[VEGETA]

So right now I have the multimeter AN8002 and AN8009 (my main). Then I plan to get EEVblog 121GW meter when it is available and stable enough, so it would be my main high end meter. Combining these 3 is the best choice and will never have a project which needs more... especially that 121GW can measure voltage and current at the same time.

Anyway I still have a manual Uni-T meter which I don't like... I will sell it or just give it away.

Best regards,