Latest 9999 counts dmm released! AN8009 for $24 now!

[001]

At morning I`m looking for something in the web and good news here

AN8009 model released
All features of 8002 and 8008 models in one unit 8009
Check it for $24

[001]

the biggest vc17b+ also renewed with 9999 counts model

[001]

IMHO it  beats any dmm priced twice a high
Why it so cheap? Much older manual 2000 counts dmms based on ICL**** have some price

[hamster_nz]

What is the NCV setting? Non contact voltage??

[001]

Yes, NCV is for No Contact Voltage

regular feature for finding wire in a wall

[001]

IMHO user interface so tricky 

[Mr. Scram]

the biggest vc17b+ also renewed with 9999 counts model

No boot though. That's a shame.

[001]

the biggest vc17b+ also renewed with 9999 counts model

No boot though. That's a shame.

What does it mean for "No boot "? No data logging? No separate resin case?

[ebastler]

So, what are the upgrades compared to the AN8008? A cursory look suggests non-contact voltage measurement, a 100 MOhm resistance range, temperature measurement. Anything else?

It still seems to have the same gap in the current measurement ranges as the AN8008 (no ranges with 1µA and 10µA resolution)?

[Mr. Scram]

What does it mean for "No boot "? No data logging? No separate resin case?

A boot is a common slang term for the holster.

[001]

So, what are the upgrades compared to the AN8008?

It has special blindpost for A/mA range (instead 8002) and missed strange "generator" option (instead 8008)
So I see it is more affordable to use pair of them as a V/I monitor for bunch of my selfmade bench power supplies 

[Mark Hennessy]

Yes, the AN8009 was mentioned a couple of weeks ago on this forum: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-1007-is-a-$25-multimeter-any-good/msg1333864/#msg1333864

I'm not as excited about this one. The only worthwhile fix with this, compared to the AN8008, is the resistance readings. I've been caught out by the AN8008 stopping at 9.999M before. I don't get excited by NCV on a DMM - I use VoltSticks for that sort of thing. The temperature range might be worthwhile - and the probe looks to be a step up from the usual ones - but still the same current ranges... I won't miss the square wave generator, but it's a shame they didn't use that range switch position for a mA range.

But having said all that, this is probably a better bet than the AN8008 for most people. I probably won't buy one at this stage, but if I didn't already have the AN8008, then I definitely would.

Hopefully there will be a version without all those test leads, saving a bit on the price. I got the same set with my AN8008, but haven't used them once. Perhaps they'd be useful for beginners who don't already have a decent range of test leads, but I'd prefer the choice.

I'm a bit more excited about the BSIDE ZT301 (no-doubt it'll appear with other branding before long). I wrote up my initial findings here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/opinion-on-a-bside-zt302-multimeter/msg1344853/#msg1344853

[001]

-

I.e. BSIDE ZT302 is a choice?

[Mark Hennessy]

The ZT302 has 9999 counts, but it puts A and mA on the same input socket, which suggests that it's using the 0.01R shunt for both, which suggests that it'll have the same or similar limitations with current measurements as the AN8008 and AN8009 has. It also has the square wave output - which is instead of temperature - which might be useful to some, but is of no value to me personally. So overall, I'd say that the ZT301 is one to buy.

The only downside of the ZT301 is 8000 counts rather than 9999. I don't think that's a big deal. If the ZT301 was only 2000 or 4000 counts, then that would have made the decision rather more tricky.

But then again, if you're not in a hurry, it might be worth waiting for the 19,999-count meter that the rear of my box hints at...

[Fungus]

I.e. BSIDE ZT302 is a choice?

It's on sale, yes, but it seems worse than the ZT301 to me.

ZT302 has a few more counts than ZT301 but it's like the AN8008: You don't get decent mA range or temperature, you get a mostly worthless square wave output instead.

ZT301 has less counts but it seems more useful.

[BroMarduk]

But then again, if you're not in a hurry, it might be worth waiting for the 19,999-count meter that the rear of my box hints at...

Definitely curious if this mystery third one comes out.   I'd prefer it to have temperature measurement instead of NCV, but that's not a deal breaker assuming they get some of the other things right.  Although from past experiences, I do remember that my Zotek box showed a ZT99 and ZT103 that never saw manufacturing or at least widespread distribution.   

If the ZT3xx series becomes popular, I would guess more "manufacturers" will be makeing/rebranding them and we may see even a few more variations.   

[retiredcaps]

You would think Aneng marketing would look at the photo (obviously retouched and photoshopped) and at least move the rotary switch from the off position to DCV since the lcd display shows 9.999 DCV.

[alexwhittemore]

the 19,999-count meter that the rear of my box hints at...

Which one is that? I'm feeling like, for $20/pop, having a few more meters on the bench for low energy stuff would be nice. Even if the safety sucks. 20k counts would for sure tip that scale.

[hamster_nz]

Definitely curious if this mystery third one comes out.   I'd prefer it to have temperature measurement instead of NCV, but that's not a deal breaker assuming they get some of the other things right.  Although from past experiences, I do remember that my Zotek box showed a ZT99 and ZT103 that never saw manufacturing or at least widespread distribution.   

It looks like it does have temperature.... (it is a range on the V setting, the little thermometer icon), comes with thermocouple too.

[Mark Hennessy]

the 19,999-count meter that the rear of my box hints at...

Which one is that? I'm feeling like, for $20/pop, having a few more meters on the bench for low energy stuff would be nice. Even if the safety sucks. 20k counts would for sure tip that scale.

See the pictures at the post linked to above in post #11...

[bitseeker]

Bummer about the shared A and mA. Maybe the next model.

[alexwhittemore]

See the pictures at the post linked to above in post #11...

Ahh I see it now. That would be quite the treat!

[Old Don]

My AN8009 arrived yesterday. I pre-ordered it prior to the 1st release date on Banggood for under $20 US including shipping. It appears to be a decent cheap meter that won't take much in the way of abuse and as with any cheap meter the leads are suspect as far as voltage ratings. Good as a backup meter, IMHO.

[progrock]

Well, I just ordered one.  Was looking for a secondary multimeter for when I need 2, or just a cheap one to care less about on top of my Fluke.  Was gonna get an extech ex330.... but for $20 shipped, with a soft case, temp probe, among other probes... I figure I can't go wrong.  And if I want, can still get the EX330, or something else anytime.

[GreyWoolfe]

I ordered one on Friday.  I was going to get another 8008 when at was $18 and the 8009 was $24.  Then I saw that the 2 were the same price at $19.99.  I also want it as a spare.  The 8008 is in my toolbag in my company van that will only see occasional use measuring resistance and maybe VDC.  I figure if I accidentally leave it behind and someone keeps it, I will have a cheap replacement.  I did replace the crappy OEM leads with the Brymen leads that Frankie sells.  Looks like I will have to make another purchase from him.  The fact that the 8008 is reasonably accurate with resistances below 10R with the Brymen leads got me to get the spare, that will be my biggest use for it.  I measured a 1R1 5% resistor at 1R12.  It was right there with my Fluke 27F/M and HP 3466.  The GW Instek GDM-8251A was 1R11 with kelvin leads and 1R12 with the Brymen leads.

[Statik]

Hi all,
Joined the EEVBlog as I see this is where all the great discussion is happening. Found Dave's videos while working on a Senior Electrical Engineering Design project this fall. Been slowly working through the vlogs.
I've been working on a collection of inexpensive hardware for my home lab and I bought the AN8009 on preorder from Banggood.com. This is my review:
https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=Krjh0m2rZfc

I'd also be interested in hacking my meter to change the timeout feature and perhaps change the capacitors as mentioned in the AN8008 thread to reduce the noise.
Rod

[bitseeker]

Welcome to the forum, Rod. Thanks for sharing your video. Note that to view it, you'll need to share the publicly accessible URL rather than your logged in one that attempts to edit the page.

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krjh0m2rZfc

[Statik]

I'm always struggling to find the correct link. If I click on the video, I often end up with an extra view, which I'm trying to avoid.

On the subject of the meter, I just finished reading the 8008 meter thread, and I'm hoping to add some of the tests and mods listed in that thread to my 8009 to see if I can make it even better.

Rod

[bitseeker]

One way to do it is take the video ID from the edit page URL: https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=Krjh0m2rZfc

Then, put it on the end of this URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

Happy modding!

[MWisBest]

Has anybody tried modding one of these multimeters (including the previous AN8002 and AN8008) to use a different fuse? I saw a few people mention it but that's it. These little 3.6x10mm fuses bother me. Seems like a 5x15mm (2AG) fuse would fit in the existing spots on the PCB with minor lead-bending on some 5mm clips... I'm thinking a Littelfuse 0208010 fuse in either 01000020Z or 01110005MR clips. Higher voltage and interrupt rating than the dinky 3.6x10mm fuses at least. Would be really nice to fit a 5x20mm in there but I don't think that's realistic unless you go panel-mount, which is sketchy. Any other ideas?

[floobydust]

The problem is the fuse has to be physically long for a high interrupt rating, >1.25"/35mm long.
What you see in "real" multimeters are 1,000V-rated with high current interrupt 10kA or 20kA.

What is the required interrupt voltage/current rating for these chinese multimeters with fake 61010 approvals?
If you derated the meter's use to say 250VAC, then you can use smaller fuses like 5x20mm. Pigtail fuses- replacing them requires soldering. Yuck.

I think people are flipping around the PCB fuse-clips, to get the holder to take the longer fuse.

[GreyWoolfe]

My AN8009 just arrived today.  Checked it out and it works, for my needs, the same as the AN8008, which is just right.  Both are right now in my company van, one to use, the other as a spare.  I really like the small size.  It fits just right in my toolbag without taking up much room.  I recommended the AN8008 to my fellow techs and I would recommend the AN8009, as long as they also got a set of Frankie's Brymen leads.

[MWisBest]

The problem is the fuse has to be physically long for a high interrupt rating, >1.25"/35mm long.
What you see in "real" multimeters are 1,000V-rated with high current interrupt 10kA or 20kA.

Yes, I'm aware the big boys are using 10x38mm fuses. I don't expect to magically turn this thing into a Fluke. It is what it is.

What is the required interrupt voltage/current rating for these chinese multimeters with fake 61010 approvals?
If you derated the meter's use to say 250VAC, then you can use smaller fuses like 5x20mm.

Yeah I don't plan on using this any higher than 250VAC, I just don't trust the dinky little things in there, period. I'm well aware any claimed ratings on these things are bunk.

Pigtail fuses- replacing them requires soldering. Yuck.

Agreed, the only reason I linked that pigtail 5x15mm is nobody stocks the non-pigtail version. They're exactly the same, was just going to cut the leads off.

I think people are flipping around the PCB fuse-clips, to get the holder to take the longer fuse.

What do you mean by flipping them around? I can't really picture that. You've got the case screw on one side and the resistors on the other, seems like quite a squeeze either direction, and the top case sits too close to the PCB to put it on that side of the board.

[Fungus]

The problem is the fuse has to be physically long for a high interrupt rating, >1.25"/35mm long.

Hence fuses like this in really safe multimeters:

(that's not a fuse, this is a fuse...)

It's inside a CAT IV 1000V meter in case you're wondering, one of the very few meters with that rating.

[Calambres]

I recommended the AN8008 to my fellow techs and I would recommend the AN8009, as long as they also got a set of Frankie's Brymen leads.

Can you be a little more specific about those leads?

[Fungus]

I recommended the AN8008 to my fellow techs and I would recommend the AN8009, as long as they also got a set of Frankie's Brymen leads.

Can you be a little more specific about those leads?

http://stores.ebay.com/99centhobbies/

[Mr. Scram]

Can you be a little more specific about those leads?

Even more specific:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-for-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V-/171162377470

[Calambres]

Thanks 

[GreyWoolfe]

I recommended the AN8008 to my fellow techs and I would recommend the AN8009, as long as they also got a set of Frankie's Brymen leads.

Can you be a little more specific about those leads?

I see that others have supplied the link.  These are very nice leads.  The wires are silicone and very supple.  The probe ends feel good in hand.  I really like them.  I have 4 pairs now and will probably get a few more.  My plan is to get rid of all my other leads and just use the Brymen.  I will have to cut the shrouds off at least 1 pair for my HP 3466A meters as they don't use shrouded banana jacks, but probably only 1 pair as I won't be using both meters at the same time.

[floobydust]

I think people are flipping around the PCB fuse-clips, to get the holder to take the longer fuse.

What do you mean by flipping them around? I can't really picture that. You've got the case screw on one side and the resistors on the other, seems like quite a squeeze either direction, and the top case sits too close to the PCB to put it on that side of the board.

I haven't tried it, and probably full of it but removing the stock fuse clips, and move them apart, soldering in just one (inside) pin. Cut the outside pin and insulate underneath.
There is no elegant way to put better fuses in these, no room and even with a perfect HRC fuse the PCB traces and creepage/clearances are not there to prevent arcing across the fuse's connections or to something else.

[Fungus]

I think people are flipping around the PCB fuse-clips, to get the holder to take the longer fuse.

What do you mean by flipping them around? I can't really picture that. You've got the case screw on one side and the resistors on the other, seems like quite a squeeze either direction, and the top case sits too close to the PCB to put it on that side of the board.

I haven't tried it, and probably full of it but removing the stock fuse clips, and move them apart, soldering in just one (inside) pin. Cut the outside pin and insulate underneath.
There is no elegant way to put better fuses in these, no room and even with a perfect HRC fuse the PCB traces and creepage/clearances are not there to prevent arcing across the fuse's connections or to something else.

I think people are doing it mostly so it will take easy-to-find standard size fuses, not to gain safety.

(at least I hope so)

[electricMN]

You need to be very patient though. I've had some of the Brymen test leads on order since December 9th and they haven't left Hong Kong yet. 
I'm sure I'll get them eventually, I'm just disappointed as to how long they take to get to me. I've ordered stuff from Banggood that takes half the time. 

[GreyWoolfe]

You need to be very patient though. I've had some of the Brymen test leads on order since December 9th and they haven't left Hong Kong yet. 
I'm sure I'll get them eventually, I'm just disappointed as to how long they take to get to me. I've ordered stuff from Banggood that takes half the time. 

That is surprising.  I have ordered 2 sets at 2 different times and they arrived pretty quickly.  I wonder if Frankie stepping aside and letting his brother run the business has anything to do with it.  As for Banggood, I ordered an Aneng AN8009 on black Friday and it just arrived yesterday.  Go figure.

[stj]

to clarify,

the fuses are only used when in current mode.
and the maximum voltage when reading current is 36vdc / 25vac.
so the fuses are fine unless you intend to ignore the specs in the manual.
too slow maybe, but you wont get a 10mm arc-over at 36v afaik.

[Fungus]

to clarify,

the fuses are only used when in current mode.
and the maximum voltage when reading current is 36vdc / 25vac.
so the fuses are fine unless you intend to ignore the specs in the manual.

To clarify,

If you're going to do everything perfectly then the fuses aren't needed at all.

The fuses are there for when you make a mistake and/or when the device under test is putting out an unknown voltage (which is why you're poking at it with a multimeter).

[MWisBest]

Where are they getting some of these components in this thing? Rubycon YXA caps, an ICL8069 voltage reference? Jeez, is it the 90s again? 

[bitseeker]

You might not want to know.

[MWisBest]

You might not want to know.

Lol, yeah. Anywho, mine did finally get here, just in time for Christmas. I'm really surprised by how small it is, the pictures and stuff really don't do it justice.
(Note: Click on any of these pictures for the hi-res versions.)


Display is nice overall, but the optimal viewing angle is strange. Looking at it from an underneath angle (\---) is gorgeous, but from an angle above it (/---) the contrast degrades. It's certainly not illegible, but not something I saw in the AN8008 review.


The battery compartment has just a tad more space between the springs and negative terminals than I'd prefer, but there's plenty of force on there (for now).


The red "multi-purpose lead" (for the screw-on attachments) had a minor casting issue on the ends, but simple enough to file off. Whatever. I didn't buy it for these leads, however I do find them to be really handy.


On the topic of test leads:

• I noticed that the screw-attachment leads don't pick up as much noise/coupling, despite being longer than the standard test leads. It's much easier to induce noise floating on the mV range by waving around the regular leads than the attachment ones.
• The temperature probe is a big thumbs-down for me! I would really prefer the usual little wire than this weird probe thing. I was tempted to stick this one under my tongue, but who knows what it's really made out of!

As far as I can tell the measurements are well within spec, but I don't have anything to properly compare it to. This blows my old multimeters out of the water. For $20 I think it was definitely worth it, the last time I bought a multimeter something like this would've cost 10 times as much.

I won't post any tear-down photos, lygte-info.dk has that covered pretty good. One thing I noticed from those photos is they (usually) put the value of components on the silkscreen, that's a nice touch. No guessing what a cap is if you ever need to change it, etc.

I will probably whack in some different bypass capacitance like others have done on the AN8008. The old 100uF electrolytic does seem insufficient. I will probably leave the voltage reference alone though.

[ebastler]

Display is nice overall, but the optimal viewing angle is strange. Looking at it from an underneath angle (\---) is gorgeous, but from an angle above it (/---) the contrast degrades.

That's by design, because the designer knew that the little tilting stand is quite useless.
When the meter lies flat on your bench, you will always look at the display from below...

[Fungus]

You might not want to know.

Lol, yeah. Anywho, mine did finally get here, just in time for Christmas. I'm really surprised by how small it is, the pictures and stuff really don't do it justice.

Wait 'til you see the fuses. 

[MWisBest]

Display is nice overall, but the optimal viewing angle is strange. Looking at it from an underneath angle (\---) is gorgeous, but from an angle above it (/---) the contrast degrades.

That's by design, because the designer knew that the little tilting stand is quite useless.
When the meter lies flat on your bench, you will always look at the display from below...

Ha! Good point, but mine is going to get a lot of use inside cars, which has all sorts of weird angles...

You might not want to know.

Lol, yeah. Anywho, mine did finally get here, just in time for Christmas. I'm really surprised by how small it is, the pictures and stuff really don't do it justice.

Wait 'til you see the fuses. 

Yes, I am well aware of the fuses inside. For now I have some 3.6x10mm "samples" from Littelfuse on the way...

[soubitos]

I got ANENG AN-8008 and just finished replacing its fuses...
I used 1808 SMD fuse holders and SMD fuses.. total cost a bit over 1$.... less than 5 min to replace them with just a soldering iron...

[MWisBest]

I got ANENG AN-8008 and just finished replacing its fuses...
I used 1808 SMD fuse holders and SMD fuses.. total cost a bit over 1$.... less than 5 min to replace them with just a soldering iron...

Why did you choose those fuses? They're a downgrade from the 3.6x10mm fuses they come with. Just easier to find for you or something?

[soubitos]

Quote from: MWisBest on Today at 06:52:43 AM

>Quote from: soubitos on Yesterday at 07:34:48 PM

I got ANENG AN-8008 and just finished replacing its fuses...
I used 1808 SMD fuse holders and SMD fuses.. total cost a bit over 1$.... less than 5 min to replace them with just a soldering iron...

Why did you choose those fuses? They're a downgrade from the 3.6x10mm fuses they come with. Just easier to find for you or something?

Exactly that! I had the fuse holders in hand... those NANO2 i think fuses are 125V but i never ever use this meter for anything over 24V anyway.... There are similar fuses for 250V+ but they are longer and i dont know how easy it would be to solder them in place..... but, i dont see how they are a downgrade since, quality-wise i consider LF fuses MUCH better than no name fuses originally in the meter... other than the rated voltage which is not a problem (for me) i think i got a very good replacement for the original fuses, not to mention i asked about spare fuses when i bought the meter (from ANENG official store/Ali) and didnt even get a response so wth.....

[MWisBest]

Quote from: MWisBest on Today at 06:52:43 AM

>Quote from: soubitos on Yesterday at 07:34:48 PM

I got ANENG AN-8008 and just finished replacing its fuses...
I used 1808 SMD fuse holders and SMD fuses.. total cost a bit over 1$.... less than 5 min to replace them with just a soldering iron...

Why did you choose those fuses? They're a downgrade from the 3.6x10mm fuses they come with. Just easier to find for you or something?

Exactly that! I had the fuse holders in hand... those NANO2 i think fuses are 125V but i never ever use this meter for anything over 24V anyway.... There are similar fuses for 250V+ but they are longer and i dont know how easy it would be to solder them in place..... but, i dont see how they are a downgrade since, quality-wise i consider LF fuses MUCH better than no name fuses originally in the meter... other than the rated voltage which is not a problem (for me) i think i got a very good replacement for the original fuses, not to mention i asked about spare fuses when i bought the meter (from ANENG official store/Ali) and didnt even get a response so wth.....

Littelfuse makes 3.6x10mm fuses too. Just have to chop the axial leads off the ends. 874 series looks appropriate.

But yeah, in the grand scheme of things they're pretty similar. The manual does state in nice big bold letters not to exceed 36V on the current range (or "25V AC", / 0.707 = 35.36V peak-to-peak of course), so really as long as you're not using it on mains (which is a clamp meter's business) both kinds of fuses are basically the same at that range.

In fact, I like how the 476 series NANO2 fuses look. 10kA specified interrupt rating at 86V DC, would be perfect when working with stuff like car batteries.  I may just give this a try! I like the looks and profile.

[soubitos]

I am not sure which type of nano2 the ones i installed are, i think they are 448 or something.. but i have an order in transit with 451's
I couldn't find any 476 or other 250VAC rated fuses to be honest....  i just ordered what the fuse holders i had available already would fit so .... anyone donating 476's? LOL (they should fit nicely to the fuse holders of mine)....

[MWisBest]

I am not sure which type of nano2 the ones i installed are, i think they are 448 or something.. but i have an order in transit with 451's
I couldn't find any 476 or other 250VAC rated fuses to be honest....  i just ordered what the fuse holders i had available already would fit so .... anyone donating 476's? LOL (they should fit nicely to the fuse holders of mine)....

The 476 series is only 250VAC up to 5A though, and doesn't come in anything smaller than 1A. BTW, these are 2410 packages, not 1808. That confused me at first.

You have 451 series in there right now. 448 series has the LF logo after the 10A marking, 451(/453) has the LF logo before the 10A marking like your pictures show.

[soubitos]

So i think i am set!
Got a very good overcurrent protection solution, easily replaceable and relatively cheap considering the meter is being used for low power, low voltage measurements. I wonder if, under these limits one could solder reset-able fuses?

[MWisBest]

I wonder if, under these limits one could solder reset-able fuses?

Resistance varies too much, voltage isn't typically rated high enough for reasonably-possible accidents, etc. Especially  with a current range being shared with voltage ranges.

[stj]

i am waiting for some fuse clips, then i will show foto's of how to do a nice upgrade.
but put simply, i will replace the upper clips with 5mm ones,
and remove the lower clips and put 5mm ones back near the probe terminals - the distance is perfect for 20mm fuses. (that i already obtained in ceramic FF rating)

[MWisBest]

Heh, anybody else notice the dead spot between the mV range and Ohm range that puts it back into the regular V range?

[stj]

if your talking about the switch detents, no i greased mine. 

[soubitos]

No but, when i press range/* to turn the backlight on and while in the mV range, it will "reboot" and a couple times got me an ErrE on screen.... strange..... it otherwise works great and i consider ordering AN8001 or 8002 to have as second meter... oh another thing worth mentioning, the pcb is marked ZT102 i think.... makes me wonder did the chicken made the egg or the egg made the chicken?

[stj]

they are made by Zotek.
http://www.szzotek.com/en/

[MWisBest]

if your talking about the switch detents, no i greased mine. 

No, I'm saying if you hold the switch sort of in-between it does that. If you're just turning it normally it's not a problem, just an odd thing.

[stj]

not odd, it's a multi-pole switch.
there will always be a point where some contacts switch before others.
as long as it does not stop on it without help - no problem.

[MWisBest]

Hmm, does anybody know what changing the value of C9 (VLCD charge pump capacitor) would do? Board has it labeled as 2.2uF, but the datasheet (for the DTM0660L, close enough..) says to use 4.7uF. I'm curious if upping it would increase VLCD to maybe get some better contrast.

[stj]

if you look at threads for the Uni-T UT139c then they found a contrast bias byte in the eeprom you can tweek.

[floobydust]

You'd have to scope the ripple on VLCD to see if the capacitor really is 4.7uF or worse. A larger cap there makes more noise on the main power, so I'd also upsize that to keep noise low on main MCU power. I had to add ceramic MLCC's as the stock 100uF electrolytic is terrible at MHz.

There are four possible VLCD firmware settings in EEPROM.
At location 0xF9, my AN8008 has stock value 0xC7. That is VLCD=01 for 3.05V drive.
You could try 0xC3 for 3.3V drive.

[MWisBest]

You'd have to scope the ripple on VLCD to see if the capacitor really is 4.7uF or worse. A larger cap there makes more noise on the main power, so I'd also upsize that to keep noise low on main MCU power. I had to add ceramic MLCC's as the stock 100uF electrolytic is terrible at MHz.

There are four possible VLCD firmware settings in EEPROM.
At location 0xF9, my AN8008 has stock value 0xC7. That is VLCD=01 for 3.05V drive.
You could try 0xC3 for 3.3V drive.

I did add a couple MLCCs under the electrolytic, 4.7uF and 0.47uF for now. Figured it couldn't hurt. I'll have to pick up an SOIC-8 clip to do EEPROM read/writes, my soldering is garbage. I use lithium AAAs so going up on the VLCD charge pump shouldn't be a big deal.

Or... perhaps I could disable the VLCD charge pump circuit and set it up for direct drive? Set LCDPR to 0, remove R17 and C9, jump VDD to VLCD... with alkalines or NiMH that would suck, but with lithiums it's not a problem. Not sure if DTM's chips implement LCDPR in EEPROM though.

[Russ]

Cool. I was just about to pull the trigger on the 8008. I will order the 8009 for the simple reason that it has a two minute backlight time, as opposed to the 15 second time on the 8008 model.

Thanks

[Russ]

My AN8009 arrived yesterday. I pre-ordered it prior to the 1st release date on Banggood for under $20 US including shipping. It appears to be a decent cheap meter that won't take much in the way of abuse and as with any cheap meter the leads are suspect as far as voltage ratings. Good as a backup meter, IMHO.

   I just placed my order through Banggood. Are they fairly quick at shipping items?

Thanks
Russ

[soubitos]

I had item delivered in 15 days... and another in 2 months.... they do ship out in a timely manner as far as my few orders with them tell me...

[stj]

they ship out very fast sometimes too fast as a friend learned when he tried to cancel a mistaken order once.

unfortunatly your at the mercy of 3 company's:
the chinese postal service - who seem fast.
the international carriers - who vary a lot,
your own postal service.

[Statik]

I've switched from DX.com to Banggood because things seem to come in 15 days or so rather than the 7-8 weeks from DX.

[Russ]

I've switched from DX.com to Banggood because things seem to come in 15 days or so rather than the 7-8 weeks from DX.

   This is the first time I’ve used Banggood. RX.com looks fishy and gets many negative reviews. 🤔

Russ

[Statik]

As an update to my review video, someone mentioned that the 8008 can have its auto poweroff disabled by holding SEL while turning the meter on. I can confirm that this also works on the 8009.

[Russ]

As an update to my review video, someone mentioned that the 8008 can have its auto poweroff disabled by holding SEL while turning the meter on. I can confirm that this also works on the 8009.

  Nice find.

[GreyWoolfe]

As an update to my review video, someone mentioned that the 8008 can have its auto poweroff disabled by holding SEL while turning the meter on. I can confirm that this also works on the 8009.

Thanks for the info, I will be doing that to my 8008 and 8009.

EDIT: must be doing something wrong here.  I held the sel button in as I turned them on until I heard 4 beeps, which was pretty quick.  However, they both still shut down after awhile, I didn't time it, too busy surfing EEVBlog.  

[Russ]

My Aneng 8009 appears to be fairly accurate. 👍

Russ

[amspire]

Just checked my AN8001 on the mV range and it has over 1G input impedance on the mV range. Is the AN8009 the same? It is pretty handy if it is the case.

To check, put a voltage into the mV range of the meter and read the result. Then add a 10MOhm or 1MOhm resistor in series, and see the voltage drop compared to the first reading. If you try reading the impedance with another multimeter, you will grossly over-voltage the input so the reading will be nonsense. For the AN8001, there was less then a 0.1% decrease in the voltage when a 10M resistor was added.

The AN8001 can go to 619.9mV on the mV range, but the AN8009 is limited to 99.99mV. The AN8008 and AN8009 have an extra x10 amplifier for the mV range so you may have a lower input impedance.

Dave's 121GW has only a 10M input impedance on the mV range, but it will be properly protected. The manual for the Aneng AN8001 meter does not mention a safe overvoltage limit for the mV range, so I would not ever like to see it connected to the mains.

[HKJ]

Just checked my AN8001 on the mV range and it has over 1G input impedance on the mV range. Is the AN8009 the same? It is pretty handy if it is the case.

AN8009 is the same as I wrote in my review. This is very common on multimeters, but only for DC mV.

[Russ]

http://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengAN8009%20UK.html

[amspire]

Just checked my AN8001 on the mV range and it has over 1G input impedance on the mV range. Is the AN8009 the same? It is pretty handy if it is the case.

AN8009 is the same as I wrote in my review. This is very common on multimeters, but only for DC mV.

I gather this is your review page: http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/DMMReviews.html

I like it a lot, especially the pop-up window as the cursor hovers over a multimeter. A really easy way to compare multimeters.

[kripton2035]

very nice page indeed, but I would like more dmm(s) to compare on it !

[HKJ]

I like it a lot, especially the pop-up window as the cursor hovers over a multimeter. A really easy way to compare multimeters.

There are two different popups depending on where the cursor is, one with a photo of the meter and one with specifications.

[VEGETA]

I have got the 8002 version and gave it to my friend (electronics repair tech) who said that capacitance measurement might not be accurate. Is that correct with you? is it different than 8009?

[HKJ]

very nice page indeed, but I would like more dmm(s) to compare on it !

I am working on it, I have many more reviews in queue. I am also open for suggestion of meters to review (Use the email on the lygte-info.dk page or a message from here, do not post it in this thread).

I do also plain on making multiple lists like here: http://lygte-info.dk/info/roundCellChargerIndex%20UK.html
But I need more meters before I do that and I also need to decide on what conditions to split the lists on (The  obvious splits would be a combination of price and safety).

[kelchm]

Mine showed up yesterday. My initial impression is that it's a really nice little meter for $22 shipped.

I did some quick spot checks of voltage and current readings and it seems reasonably accurate. My biggest complaints so far is that the viewing angle on the LCD is terrible at the 12 o'clock position and that the fold out stand is a flimsy piece of crap. The bag and little lead kit was a nice surprise.

If anyone has anything they would like me to check out or test just let me know.

[Russ]

Mine showed up yesterday. My initial impression is that it's a really nice little meter for $22 shipped.

I did some quick spot checks of voltage and current readings and it seems reasonably accurate. My biggest complaints so far is that the viewing angle on the LCD is terrible at the 12 o'clock position and that the fold out stand is a flimsy piece of crap. The bag and little lead kit was a nice surprise.

If anyone has anything they would like me to check out or test just let me know.

My thoughts on it too. But for $24.00, I can’t complain.

Russ

[GreyWoolfe]

I have told my fellow techs about these meters.  As a reminder, our use is low resistance and continuity.  There might be a time when voltage checks are needed but the resistance accuracy is important.  I use mine with the Brymen leads that Frankie sells and the meter is very accurate, the OEM leads are not good quality.  Size, for me, was another consideration, the smaller the better to fit in my tool bag.  I know there are negative comments about the meter, But as Russ says, it's a $24 meter.  If you want great specs, great viewing angles, solid stands, quality test leads, etc, buy a more expensive meter.  As long as you take into consideration that it is a $24 meter, it will serve your needs fairly well.  I have much better meters, but for my particular needs, there is no better bang for the buck.

[Russ]

I have told my fellow techs about these meters.  As a reminder, our use is low resistance and continuity.  There might be a time when voltage checks are needed but the resistance accuracy is important.  I use mine with the Brymen leads that Frankie sells and the meter is very accurate, the OEM leads are not good quality.  Size, for me, was another consideration, the smaller the better to fit in my tool bag.  I know there are negative comments about the meter, But as Russ says, it's a $24 meter.  If you want great specs, great viewing angles, solid stands, quality test leads, etc, buy a more expensive meter.  As long as you take into consideration that it is a $24 meter, it will serve your needs fairly well.  I have much better meters, but for my particular needs, there is no better bang for the buck.

   I will try it with my Brymen leads 🤔

Russ

[ManuelMcLure]

Just ordered one of these from BG. It'll work well as a backup to my main handheld meter - an HP (none of this Agilent/Keysight junk) 974A.

[GreyWoolfe]

Just ordered one of these from BG. It'll work well as a backup to my main handheld meter - an HP (none of this Agilent/Keysight junk) 974A.

Get a set of Brymen leads from Frankie Tong on evilbay.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-for-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V/171162377470?epid=2063657290&hash=item27da129cfe:g:uSQAAOxyTjNShpch  These work much better than the crappy OEM leads.  Since all my DMMs were bought used and came with crappy leads or none at all, I am replacing all of them with the above leads.

[ManuelMcLure]

Get a set of Brymen leads from Frankie Tong on evilbay.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-for-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V/171162377470?epid=2063657290&hash=item27da129cfe:g:uSQAAOxyTjNShpch  These work much better than the crappy OEM leads.  Since all my DMMs were bought used and came with crappy leads or none at all, I am replacing all of them with the above leads.

I've got Probemaster Series 8000 on the HP (it's amazing how crappy the leads that came with the HP are) which I'm very happy with and I see the price on the Brymen leads is actually very slightly higher than the cost of the Probemasters. Are the Brymens really better than the PMs? The only advantage I see is that the Brymens come with the bullet/banana adapters.

[GreyWoolfe]

Get a set of Brymen leads from Frankie Tong on evilbay.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brymen-Silicone-Gold-Plated-Test-Leads-Probes-for-Multimeters-CAT-IV-1000V/171162377470?epid=2063657290&hash=item27da129cfe:g:uSQAAOxyTjNShpch  These work much better than the crappy OEM leads.  Since all my DMMs were bought used and came with crappy leads or none at all, I am replacing all of them with the above leads.

I've got Probemaster Series 8000 on the HP (it's amazing how crappy the leads that came with the HP are) which I'm very happy with and I see the price on the Brymen leads is actually very slightly higher than the cost of the Probemasters. Are the Brymens really better than the PMs? The only advantage I see is that the Brymens come with the bullet/banana adapters.

I haven't tried the Probemaster leads.  I will have to look at them.  I am not sure what got me going on the Brymen.  I might get a set to see what they are like.

[Russ]

I’m going to try my extra set of Brymen leads on the Aneng 8009 and see what the difference is.

Russ

[Statik]

Russ, I noticed a spelling mistake in your review:

The other set of probes fells rather low quality,

<-- feels, rather than fells.

I like your review style, especially the comparison chart at the end. It gives a good overview of what the meter has wrt what is available.

Cheers!
Rod

[Russ]

Russ, I noticed a spelling mistake in your review:

The other set of probes fells rather low quality,

<-- feels, rather than fells.

I like your review style, especially the comparison chart at the end. It gives a good overview of what the meter has wrt what is available.

Cheers!
Rod

I actually a very good speller. It’s the predictive speller function on the I phone that screws things up, and I do not always catch and correct it. 😬

Russ

[HKJ]

Russ, I noticed a spelling mistake in your review:

The other set of probes fells rather low quality,

<-- feels, rather than fells.

I like your review style, especially the comparison chart at the end. It gives a good overview of what the meter has wrt what is available.

That sentence and spelling mistake looks to be from my review that Russ linked to (Thanks). I have fixed it.
If you use a computer with a mouse, try my table here: http://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMReviews.html
You can easily compare the chart for all the meters I have reviewed.

[Statik]

Ah yes, sorry. I missed who's review it was and who linked it.
Yes, I did take a look at the chart and the mouse-over pop-ups. I like it. As I mentioned in my mistaken reply to Russ, I especially like your standardized testing with the chart that lists the possible features and light's up the ones that the meter has. I think it makes it easier to see how closely the meter matches your desired specs.
Are you planning to make a filter for the reviews where you can narrow the results but desired features and the like?
Rod

[HKJ]

Are you planning to make a filter for the reviews where you can narrow the results but desired features and the like?

It is not database based, this makes it rather difficult to do, but I am planning on doing some preselected lists.

[Statik]

It is possible to do some basic sorting right in HTML/CSS with Javascript so that you don't need to get into programming. I've done some similar things in the past on some old projects I worked on.
Rod

[HKJ]

It is possible to do some basic sorting right in HTML/CSS with Javascript so that you don't need to get into programming. I've done some similar things in the past on some old projects I worked on.

I do not mind programming, but not the the current webserver. I have included a sort function in the table, just click on the headers.

[mandor]

These meters are crazy good. I compared few voltage readings with my Brymen BM867s and they show almost identical values. To the third decimal.
I don't know about current and resistance but voltage is crazy accurate.

[texaspyro]

I've checked a few 8009's vs 8008's and the 8009's don't seem to calibrated quite as well as the 8008's.  They were all a couple of counts low (at 5V in) and 10K resistance.

[ManuelMcLure]

So I got my AN8009 from Banggood yesterday. First impressions:

- Compared to my HP 974A this thing is tiny!
- From a comfort and ease-of-use standpoint I think the probes are fine. I would definitely say that they're more comfortable than the original probes that came with my HP 974A (I'm continually amazed at how nasty those things feel) although they're not as nice as my ProbeMasters. As far as performance is concerned I don't know how they measure up. I do like that I got a second set of probes with replaceable tips/connectors - my HP didn't come with anything like that and although I have those for the ProbeMasters they were an extra cost option.
- I'm not going to trust it for high energy stuff, but for low voltage I think this is going to be my go-to meter.

[Fungus]

- Compared to my HP 974A this thing is tiny!

I think they're a bit too small, especially the grabber on the selector switch.

(the way the grabber is rounded off at the ends doesn't help either, it should stick up a bit at the ends).

[Statik]

I've been making good use of the alligator clip ends on the 'make your own' probe wires that came in the kit. They are great for leaving the meter in circuit for measuring current while you change settings and such.
The meter IS very small, which I don't see as a downside, or an upside, it just is. If you like a bigger meter, get a different one. Kind like dissing a smart car because you can't carry plywood inside. The real question is, does it do the job it says it is built to do? I think it does, within limits.

[Stinger]

Hi friends !

AN8008 are more accurate than latest AN8009 ?

At 6min30 :

https://youtu.be/TP4kzXdJIF4?t=6m30s

[Calambres]

In my experience, no. I've got both and the 8009 seems to be a bit more accurate.

BTW, I performed the cap upgrade on both units and it is indeed a recommended modification: the readings are notably faster.

[Fungus]

Hi friends !

AN8008 are more accurate than latest AN8009 ?

Every meter will be different.

The specification for DC voltage on these meters is "±(0.5%+3)"

So 5.000V can read anywhere from 4.972 and 5.028 volts on the meter and you can't complain.

(they're usually better than that...)

[Stinger]

Thanks for answers !

Caps upgrade looks good.

Received AN8009 yesterday. Cute tiny DMM.

Is it possible to disable beep when changing mod or pressing button ?

[carpin]

Is the ANENG AN870 the latest version?

[ebastler]

Is the ANENG AN870 the latest version?

The AN870 is obviously from the larger series of meters. It might be a successor to the AN860(B). The AN8008 and 8009 have a significantly smaller form factor.

[trobbins]

Can anyone clarify the meter's internal resistance when measuring ACV and DCV?

HJK's review indicates:
Input impedance is 10Mohm to 11Mohm on DC and AC
mV range is high input impedance for DC up to about 1.5V, then it drops to 3kohm, mV AC is similar, except it is capped by a 10Mohm resistor.

Does that mean that input impedance is 10Mohm to 11Mohm on all DC and AC voltage ranges? 

Is it the 9.999V FS range that has an input impedance change, dropping to 3kohm above about 1.5V?  Is that the only range (AC or DC) that has that change in input impedance?

I've just ordered in this meter, so can't test this myself yet.  Just concerned as I was hoping to generally use this meter for valve related circuits where high input resistance is pretty much mandatory on all voltage ranges (AC or DC).

Ciao, Tim

[HKJ]

Does that mean that input impedance is 10Mohm to 11Mohm on all DC and AC voltage ranges? 

Each range has a fixed input impedance, but it varies between 10 and 11Mohm depending on range.

Is it the 9.999V FS range that has an input impedance change, dropping to 3kohm above about 1.5V?  Is that the only range (AC or DC) that has that change in input impedance?

The mV range is below 1V, you will onlly see the low impedance when overloading the range, like trying to measure mV ripple on a DC rail with the AC mV range

[trobbins]

Ta muchly.  The penny drops now - any of the autoranged DC mV ranges will effectively overload (change input impedance) with more than about 1.5VAC (rms I guess) applied, and vice versa any of the autoranged AC mV ranges will effectively overload (change input impedance) with more than about 1.5VDC applied.

Audio amplifier testing often requires mV ripple or signal voltage measurements on a DCV well over 1.5V, so I will need to use the V level ranges with at best 1mV resolution but more likely 100mV resolution, and go to the lab meter if signal or ripple is too low.

Would anyone have measured the crest factor performance, or have a view on that based on the generic chip used?  I'd be interested to know if much higher than 3 can be achieved if range FS was not exceeded by the peak of the waveform - I can check that with my HP3400A - rectifier pulse current waveforms in a typical power supply get very peaky, and that's where a fuse is normally inserted so a good rms measurement helps.

[HKJ]

Ta muchly.  The penny drops now - any of the autoranged DC mV ranges will effectively overload (change input impedance) with more than about 1.5VAC (rms I guess) applied, and vice versa any of the autoranged AC mV ranges will effectively overload (change input impedance) with more than about 1.5VDC applied.

It is 1.5V DC or peak for both AC and DC mV ranges.

Audio amplifier testing often requires mV ripple or signal voltage measurements on a DCV well over 1.5V, so I will need to use the V level ranges with at best 1mV resolution but more likely 100mV resolution, and go to the lab meter if signal or ripple is too low.

You could put a capacitor in series with the meter.

[solarity]

Someone a few people on reddit suggested the 8008, though I saw the 8009. From what I am understanding you get temp probe and a bag for a few bucks more? I also see someone mentioned the AN870. I am looking at the different multimeter. Currently I am working on Low voltage 5v/12v and building some circuit boards. My current MM is an manual range Ideal, and it is annoying switching between the different ranges. Though the ideal does have temp. I see people recommend having two. Which one would guys suggest I buy for someone who is getting into the hobby?

[Fungus]

I see people recommend having two.

Yes, one meter isn't enough. Two meters lets you compare readings so you know your meter is working, you can measure voltage/current simultaneously, etc.

Which one would guys suggest I buy for someone who is getting into the hobby?

I say AN860B+.

People complain that it's a bigger but it's a much more usable meter than the AN800X series (IMHO). Better built, better ergonomics, no gaps in the ranges, standard size fuses, ... etc.

Yes, I own both types. If you're getting two meters you could get one of each, too.

[solarity]

I see people recommend having two.

Yes, one meter isn't enough. Two meters lets you compare readings so you know your meter is working, you can measure voltage/current simultaneously, etc.

Which one would guys suggest I buy for someone who is getting into the hobby?

I say AN860B+.

People complain that it's a bigger but it's a much more usable meter than the AN800X series (IMHO). Better built, better ergonomics, no gaps in the ranges, standard size fuses, ... etc.

Yes, I own both types. If you're getting two meters you could get one of each, too.

I am just starting to get into this hobby and I am learning a lot. After looking into these more it seems like the gap resides in the mA range for the 8000 series. This is a range I specifically want to look at, so with this in mind, you might be right.

I already do have one MM, an Ideal 61-310, granted it seems a bit limited compared to some other ones I have looked at. I am looking for a new one to be my main, so I would only like to buy one at this time.

Regarding the AN860B+, have you looked at the AN870? If so what are your thoughts.

Edit: Hrmm I do see that EEVBlog does sell one for ~$125.  I assume this is a good meter, if eevblog gets a cut of this, I think that is cool. I don't mind contributing to some youtubers, I already support some via patrion. To me the insight provided from the content is a very good value. For some reason I take into account value more than price point. I think eevblog provides a very good value.

[Fungus]

Regarding the AN860B+, have you looked at the AN870? If so what are your thoughts.

Last time I looked they were much more expensive for not many extra features.

Edit: Hrmm I do see that EEVBlog does sell one for ~$125.  I assume this is a good meter, if eevblog gets a cut of this, I think that is cool. I don't mind contributing to some youtubers, I already support some via patrion. To me the insight provided from the content is a very good value. For some reason I take into account value more than price point. I think eevblog provides a very good value.

It's a rebranded Brymen BM235 - a nice little meter.

You're still going to need two meters though. 

[solarity]

Regarding the AN860B+, have you looked at the AN870? If so what are your thoughts.

Last time I looked they were much more expensive for not many extra features.

Edit: Hrmm I do see that EEVBlog does sell one for ~$125.  I assume this is a good meter, if eevblog gets a cut of this, I think that is cool. I don't mind contributing to some youtubers, I already support some via patrion. To me the insight provided from the content is a very good value. For some reason I take into account value more than price point. I think eevblog provides a very good value.

It's a rebranded Brymen BM235 - a nice little meter.

You're still going to need two meters though. 

The prices seem similar/negligible between the 860B+ and the 870. When you say I need to meters are you saying two identical ones or two meters in general are fine. I already have an Ideal meter, granted it isn't that great.

[Fungus]

The prices seem similar/negligible between the 860B+ and the 870.

The 870 seems to have dropped a lot. There's maybe less than 10 Euros difference now (but 10 Euros is still 50% at these prices).

 I'm sure the 870 is a good meter for low voltage DC work but I don't own one so I'm not really the right person to ask about practical differences.

When you say I need to meters are you saying two identical ones or two meters in general are fine. I already have an Ideal meter, granted it isn't that great.

Definitely not two identical ones - they might both have the same bugs and/or modes of failure. The idea is to contrast and compare readings for extra confidence.

(and make the occasional reading that needs two meters simultaneously)

[bitseeker]

I see people recommend having two.

Two meters lets you compare readings

Yes.

so you know your meter is working,

You'd need at least three meters for that. With two, if one is off, which one is it? With three or more, at least you can go with the majority.

Seriously, though, two is good for starting out and they don't have to be identical.

A couple of other good meters (i.e., safe to use around the house for more than just electronics) are the Uni-T UT139C and Brymen BM257 (a.k.a., Greenlee DM-510A in the US). They're more expensive than the Aneng ones, but are appropriate for more than low-voltage use, if you need that.

[trobbins]

I just checked my new one out.
It's spot on the same for resistance from 0.1 ohm to 68Meg as my 6 digit vintage Keithley, and as accurate as a 0.1% RN55 at 49.9k.
The diode range goes up to at least a blue LED 2.8V, but not too much higher.
I just added two more 100uF 16V electro's I had available and it settles very fast.  I added one of those caps across the eprom, as all pins on one side are negative rail, and an end pin is positive rail, and that location is as close to the main IC as possible.  No need for smt parts or eagle eyes.
All solder joints were fine, with no splatter, and they have beefed up the high current sensing path pcb trace now, compared with early photos I've seen.

[Styno]

Got two of these Aneng 8009 multimeters with the intention of measuring some of my uA sucking applications. Today we measured a mA current to sort-of calibrate a 0-20mA industrial input using a Iso-Tech ILC-421 current calibrator.

One of the multimeters measures 12.0mA (according to the Iso-Tech) as -12.8mA or 11.2 mA depending on the orientation of the test leads and displays -0.8 mA unconnected.
The other measures -12.4 or 11.6mA with -0.4mA unconnected.

I did not modify the multimeters (yet).

[Stinger]

Hello,

Are is possible to mod AN8009 by activating REL and Min/Max functions like AN8002 ?

[oxoocoffee]

Not sure if someone already posted this while back.

https://www.jackenhack.com/aneng-an8008-modify-for-better-accuracy-faster-readings/