My Fluke died.... what now? Please recommend me one.

[mzacharias]

One can usually repair and confirm proper operation without "calibration". If calibration is required it is usually for government or other legal reasons.

My Flukes are all "out-of-cal".  So what? I only use them on my home bench.

[IanB]

Except that if you replace the input resistor divider network you would most likely have to adjust the meter so that it gives the correct readings after that change.

[Lightages]

Get it FIXED please !    

187 will still be miles ahead in many respects compared to bug riddled eye candy meters many drool over,

Which meters are you referring to?

cheaper than buying an equivalent new Fluke, or a current expensive "Flook 87veee Made In TBC" (oops...I need to watch that)

Cheaper to repair, cheaper to buy a replacement? What do you mean?

'good as it gets' proper CAT rating

There are other meters with higher 3rd party certified CAT ratings, so how can you say that?

fast as lightning continuity chirping buzzer!   (operates without bird food afaict)

Not the only meter that does that 

AC+DC 

See above

NO MENU BS !!!

Some prefer to have more functions and sometimes this requires a menu or two.

User modifiable multiple preset Startup Options

Again, not exclusive to the 187

FWIW no one is going to take you seriously at most job sites waving a cheapo RED meter around (FACT!) 

I call BS on that one. Prove it.

I can keep going all day if you like...   

Nah not thanks, I am getting tired of shoveling....

or if you really are THAT over the Fluke vibe  , get an EEVblog meter and get on with the job   

Doesn't this contradict everything you have already said? And no offense to Dave, but you are recommending a completely new, untested, un reviewed, and not even in production meter to someone who wants something that is known reliable and is actually available? There is nothing to say that Dave's meter will be ready for another 6 months or more. It will probably be  a great meter, but probably is not a sure thing.

I will keep my shovel handy I guess.

[Fungus]

or if you really are THAT over the Fluke vibe  , get an EEVblog meter and get on with the job   

Doesn't this contradict everything you have already said? And no offense to Dave, but you are recommending a completely new, untested, un reviewed, and not even in production meter to someone who wants something that is known reliable and is actually available? There is nothing to say that Dave's meter will be ready for another 6 months or more. It will probably be  a great meter, but probably is not a sure thing.

I will keep my shovel handy I guess.

Um, Dave's been selling a meter for quite a while now.

[The Soulman]

One can usually repair and confirm proper operation without "calibration". If calibration is required it is usually for government or other legal reasons.

My Flukes are all "out-of-cal".  So what? I only use them on my home bench.

Correct, but here is meant calibration + adjustment, "calibration" is sometimes incorrectly associated with "adjustment".

Edit: this meter needs specialized equipment to adjust it, making alterations in the ROM. 

[LabSpokane]

Connecting such a cheap meter, then powering on the circuit to make such a device "safe" is completely unrealistic and frankly, dangerous. This procedure does not make such things safe. The meter will not explode in ones hand, but the arc-flash incident will occur anyway. The burns and eye damage from these incidents are horrific, so I would recommend in the strongest possible terms to NOT use a cheapo meter as a sacrificial device in a high-energy environment.

You're correct. I'll fix my post just in case anybody gets the wrong idea.

If you're on a budget and need an occasional 'sacrificial' meter, get a Fluke 101. At that price there's really no excuse.

And ... if you regularly measure 450VDC then get a meter that's designed for the job.

Even if the sparks don't get you the temporary blindness might and the hearing damage isn't worth it.

A relatively inexpensive ($100-200), but properly designed handheld meter is the correct choice about 95% of the time.

[Lightages]

Um, Dave's been selling a meter for quite a while now.

Really, who knew?  I was referring to Dave's meter, not the Brymen he resells. The 121GW, ffs....

[Electro Detective]

Um, Dave's been selling a meter for quite a while now.

Really, who knew?  I was referring to Dave's meter, not the Brymen he resells. The 121GW, ffs....

Up till then I thought you were trying to be legit knocking aside my recommendations   

[BigBoss]

Buy a Gossen-Metrawatt , use it years ans years..

[Electro Detective]

Get it FIXED please !    

187 will still be miles ahead in many respects compared to bug riddled eye candy meters many drool over,

Which meters are you referring to?  Where do I start? Pick a brand

cheaper than buying an equivalent new Fluke, or a current expensive "Flook 87veee Made In TBC" (oops...I need to watch that)

Cheaper to repair, cheaper to buy a replacement? What do you mean? Cheaper to repair than buying a replacement equivalent Fluke

'good as it gets' proper CAT rating

There are other meters with higher 3rd party certified CAT ratings, so how can you say that?  good as it gets for that vintage meter, and still holds up well with 1000 volts Cat 111 rating, maybe 600v Cat 4 on OPs meter

fast as lightning continuity chirping buzzer!   (operates without bird food afaict)

Not the only meter that does that    I'll back MONEY the 187/189 beats them all

AC+DC 

See above  Yes, and a great band too

NO MENU BS !!!

Some prefer to have more functions and sometimes this requires a menu or two.  MANY don't

User modifiable multiple preset Startup Options

Again, not exclusive to the 187  Yes but the 187 does it and probably one of the first that did. And it's easy

FWIW no one is going to take you seriously at most job sites waving a cheapo RED meter around (FACT!) 

I call BS on that one. Prove it.  Come along and see how easy it is  but you'll have to cart my tools and set up my test gear for the duration of the big day out 

I can keep going all day if you like...   

Nah not thanks, I am getting tired of shoveling....  Then you won't cut it at the job sites, sorry offer withdrawn 

or if you really are THAT over the Fluke vibe  , get an EEVblog meter and get on with the job   

Doesn't this contradict everything you have already said? And no offense to Dave, but you are recommending a completely new, untested, un reviewed, and not even in production meter to someone who wants something that is known reliable and is actually available? There is nothing to say that Dave's meter will be ready for another 6 months or more. It will probably be  a great meter, but probably is not a sure thing.

I will keep my shovel handy I guess. 

You lost us all on that last part   



Entertainment humor aside      OP needs a meter for audio work, most TRMS meters AC response max out to 2khz,

OPs goes up to 100khz, 

best he gets an honest FINAL quote to get the 187 meter back on track,

or sell it here as 'parts / as is / knackered' etc and get some cash for the next high AC bandwidth 'audio friendly' meter   

[Lightages]

If the OP can repair his 187 and have it calibrated after the repair for less than the price of a Brymen BM869S, then perhaps it is worth it. I applaud those who fix things instead of throwing them in the garbage.The BM869S has a bandwidth of 100kHz, a higher CAT rating than the 187, and default memory of last settings at startup. It seems to me that it would be a possible good alternative to  15yr old repaired meter that has no warranty. It is just a suggestion rather than a unsubstantiated  assertion that Fluke is better than anything else anytime anyhow.

[Fungus]

If the OP can repair his 187 and have it calibrated after the repair for less than the price of a Brymen BM869S, then perhaps it is worth it. I applaud those who fix things instead of throwing them in the garbage.

Yep, but I have a feeling he can't. It's going to need repair and calibration. Just the calibration could cost $100+ (especially if he has to ship it somehere).

The BM869S has a bandwidth of 100kHz, a higher CAT rating than the 187, and default memory of last settings at startup. It seems to me that it would be a possible good alternative to  15yr old repaired meter that has no warranty.

Also: Get a cheapo meter for measuring the high voltage DC save the fancy meter for the fancy measurements.

eg.

Fluke 101, $42 for CAT III 600V
Fluke 15B+, $82 for CAT II 1000V, CAT III 600V   (get this if you need to measure up to 1000V)

It is just a suggestion rather than a unsubstantiated  assertion that Fluke is better than anything else anytime anyhow.

Both those suggestions are Flukes.   

But, to be fair: a) I don't think there's many meters in that price range that have genuine certifications, and b) both of those have been zapped and done well in the 'robustness' thread.

(OK, it was a 17B+ not a 15B+ but they're very similar)

[IanB]

Also: Get a cheapo meter for measuring the high voltage DC save the fancy meter for the fancy measurements.

But if you are working with vacuum tube audio gear you may need to measure AC at audio frequencies and high voltages?

[Electro Detective]

Also: Get a cheapo meter for measuring the high voltage DC save the fancy meter for the fancy measurements.

But if you are working with vacuum tube audio gear you may need to measure AC at audio frequencies and high voltages?

Both comments are valid, so...

OP will have to tone down those suspect incoming AC voltages with a high voltage probe or some sort of resistive circuit in a box with flying leads and fast fuse.

Otherwise the fixed 187, or  Brymen, Gossen, Keysight replacement may also emit magic fumes 

[rsjsouza]

Also: Get a cheapo meter for measuring the high voltage DC save the fancy meter for the fancy measurements.

But if you are working with vacuum tube audio gear you may need to measure AC at audio frequencies and high voltages?

Not only that, but by this reason if you have to watch out every single move to protect the "fancy meter" from being exposed to voltages below its rated specs, then why have it in the first place? Vacuum tube amplifiers normally do not need the 187 precision anyways, and a 20kHz bandwidth meter will take you very far in audio.

[Fungus]

Not only that, but by this reason if you have to watch out every single move to protect the "fancy meter" from being exposed to voltages below its rated specs, then why have it in the first place?

How do you know they're "below its rated specs"?

If you're diagnosing something with a multimeter then presumably it might be faulty in some way. Higher voltages than expected may ensue.

[rsjsouza]

Not only that, but by this reason if you have to watch out every single move to protect the "fancy meter" from being exposed to voltages below its rated specs, then why have it in the first place?

How do you know they're "below its rated specs"?

If you're diagnosing something with a multimeter then presumably it might be faulty in some way. Higher voltages than expected may ensue.

Well, you are right in the sense that higher voltages may happen¹, but I was going with whatever the OP mentioned: "I was measuring around 450VDC and then it suddenly stopped giving data..."

My original point still stands. If your meter is cause for concern in every step on the way, then the correct course of action would be to move on to something else more robust - that or something cheaper/disposable², but in this case there is a risk of it blowing up spectacularly in your hand.

¹ In my experience, valve amplifiers do not develop voltages much larger than 500V - even still, it is rather unusual to have spikes in the signal path, unless an output transformer tap is intermittent or disconnected. 
² I know that a Fluke 101 can be had for cheap but, depending on the country, the import taxes and the lag caused by the customs office may offset any advantages.

[Fungus]

If you're diagnosing something with a multimeter then presumably it might be faulty in some way. Higher voltages than expected may ensue.

Well, you are right in the sense that higher voltages may happen¹, but I was going with whatever the OP mentioned: "I was measuring around 450VDC and then it suddenly stopped giving data..."

I guess we'll never know the details but something killed his fancy, 1000V rated, $700 multimeter.

Who's to say it won't happen again if he spends another $700 on a new one?

My original point still stands. If your meter is cause for concern in every step on the way, then the correct course of action would be to move on to something else more robust - that or something cheaper/disposable², but in this case there is a risk of it blowing up spectacularly in your hand.

And as noted by me:
a) The concern isn't the meter, it's the voltage of the DUT.
b) You can get a properly-rated, 1000V meter that won't blow up in your hand for $82 (Fluke 15B+).
c) You shouldn't be holding it in your hand anyway, use crocodile clips.

But hey, it's just an opinion. It's what I'd do if I regularly had to measure high voltages on devices under development/repair.

[joeqsmith]

I've make several attenuators over the years to look at higher voltage signals than the meters were made for.   This one is a divide by 10.  So for a 1000V meter, I can measure around 10KV with it.  Here you can see Dave's meter reading a 5KV supply.   The attenuator has some HRC fuses, HV resistors, an  internal clamp and it is also potted.   Even at 10KV, the currents are so low in the output, I can handle it.  It can also be flipped any which way.  There is no polarity with it.  It's also designed to handle a single point failure and still protect the meter.   

I made a video about it that explains why I designed it the way I did.     

[rsjsouza]

If you're diagnosing something with a multimeter then presumably it might be faulty in some way. Higher voltages than expected may ensue.

Well, you are right in the sense that higher voltages may happen¹, but I was going with whatever the OP mentioned: "I was measuring around 450VDC and then it suddenly stopped giving data..."

I guess we'll never know the details but something killed his fancy, 1000V rated, $700 multimeter.

There is another thread where the OP exposes a few additional details and open the possibility of the failures come from something else other than electrical. Part of my assumptions on this thread come from that discussion.

Who's to say it won't happen again if he spends another $700 on a new one?

Nobody, really.

My original point still stands. If your meter is cause for concern in every step on the way, then the correct course of action would be to move on to something else more robust - that or something cheaper/disposable², but in this case there is a risk of it blowing up spectacularly in your hand.

And as noted by me:
a) The concern isn't the meter, it's the voltage of the DUT.

IMO your "fancy meter" remark was showing concern for the meter and not the DUT voltage; however, if you say so, then my apologies. 

b) You can get a properly-rated, 1000V meter that won't blow up in your hand for $82 (Fluke 15B+).

See remark #2 in my original post. Besides, my point is still valid. The $700 1000V Cat III rated meter and the 15B+ should be equally suitable for the task at hand.

c) You shouldn't be holding it in your hand anyway, use crocodile clips.

Use crocodile clips to hold the meter? (I know what you mean... )

Look, I think we would adopt a very similar procedure but with the only difference is which meters we would expose to what conditions. Unfortunately for the OP, he trusted the expensive meter would withstand the DUT (which based on the data it should have) and it may have been victim of simply bad luck. The other thread mentions how this meter non-repairable unless he sinks more money into it. Unfortunately not only warranties are not applied equally across the globe but it is also the manufacturers' discretion to decide if the failure is caused by abuse or workmanship.