NEW $50 multimeter shootout - 15 DMMs compared - Aug 2, 2015

[joeqsmith]

That Voltcraft VC890 is a pile of shit dressed to thrill, it's basic dc accuracy is +-0.8%, that's crap and it's boasts 60000 count

It's actually 0.03% +10 for 600mv range and 0.05% +10 for 6-1000v range

EDIT: check page 81: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/100000-124999/124600-an-01-ml-VOLTCRAFT_VC890_OLED_DMM_de_en_fr_nl.pdf

If its just for show and collects dust, 10% is good enough.      

Did you try flipping the leads and see if it made a difference on your meters?   

[5ky]

That Voltcraft VC890 is a pile of shit dressed to thrill, it's basic dc accuracy is +-0.8%, that's crap and it's boasts 60000 count

It's actually 0.03% +10 for 600mv range and 0.05% +10 for 6-1000v range

EDIT: check page 81: http://www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/100000-124999/124600-an-01-ml-VOLTCRAFT_VC890_OLED_DMM_de_en_fr_nl.pdf

If its just for show and collects dust, 10% is good enough.      

Did you try flipping the leads and see if it made a difference on your meters?

I did, and it changes a bit on a few ranges, but I was feeling too lazy to report the findings.  Laziness prevails!

[Muttley Snickers]

And some dont blow the fuse when in current mode with mains or 3 phase applied, the meter explodes instead, well my Fluke 70 series did across 2 phases whilst I was being distracted fixing a machine. If they survive this then perhaps the next level awaits.

Well done and many thanks....

Muttley

[Robomeds]

And some dont blow the fuse when in current mode with mains or 3 phase applied, the meter explodes instead, well my Fluke 70 series did across 2 phases whilst I was being distracted fixing a machine. If they survive this then perhaps the next level awaits.

Well done and many thanks....

Muttley

I have a GreenLee 200a (Brymen 250 series meter).  I got it for free because the thing didn't work.  It turned out the trace from the negative terminal was blown just next to the terminal.  You can see the trace I'm talking about in this picture, the negative terminal is the one just left of center in the image.  The trace was blown where it extends through the isolation slots.  I repaired it by soldering a bit of wire back into the gap.  The fuse also blew but I was surprised to see that the blown fuse wasn't the only damage.  After repairing the trace the meter as worked just fine (but I would never use it on high power systems with a repaired trace... if I ever had to do that I have an 87-5 for that job).  Regardless, I am disappointed that it appears that the meter died due to a short through the high current loop.  I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

[5ky]

And some dont blow the fuse when in current mode with mains or 3 phase applied, the meter explodes instead, well my Fluke 70 series did across 2 phases whilst I was being distracted fixing a machine. If they survive this then perhaps the next level awaits.

Well done and many thanks....

Muttley

I have a GreenLee 200a (Brymen 250 series meter).  I got it for free because the thing didn't work.  It turned out the trace from the negative terminal was blown just next to the terminal.  You can see the trace I'm talking about in this picture, the negative terminal is the one just left of center in the image.  The trace was blown where it extends through the isolation slots.  I repaired it by soldering a bit of wire back into the gap.  The fuse also blew but I was surprised to see that the blown fuse wasn't the only damage.  After repairing the trace the meter as worked just fine (but I would never use it on high power systems with a repaired trace... if I ever had to do that I have an 87-5 for that job).  Regardless, I am disappointed that it appears that the meter died due to a short through the high current loop.  I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

perhaps the prior user didn't replace a blown fuse with a fast blow?

[Robomeds]

And some dont blow the fuse when in current mode with mains or 3 phase applied, the meter explodes instead, well my Fluke 70 series did across 2 phases whilst I was being distracted fixing a machine. If they survive this then perhaps the next level awaits.

Well done and many thanks....

Muttley

I have a GreenLee 200a (Brymen 250 series meter).  I got it for free because the thing didn't work.  It turned out the trace from the negative terminal was blown just next to the terminal.  You can see the trace I'm talking about in this picture, the negative terminal is the one just left of center in the image.  The trace was blown where it extends through the isolation slots.  I repaired it by soldering a bit of wire back into the gap.  The fuse also blew but I was surprised to see that the blown fuse wasn't the only damage.  After repairing the trace the meter as worked just fine (but I would never use it on high power systems with a repaired trace... if I ever had to do that I have an 87-5 for that job).  Regardless, I am disappointed that it appears that the meter died due to a short through the high current loop.  I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

perhaps the prior user didn't replace a blown fuse with a fast blow?

I don't think so.  The fuse I pulled out was the correct HRC fuse type.  I guess they might have bypassed it then put the fuse back in when they blew the "fuse" a second time. 

[saturation]

Is the fuse properly rated, and if so, its not counterfeit?  If the fuse was good, then the PCB is either a production batch defect or its a design defect. 

Greelee claims to have limited lifetime warranties on many DMMs, including this one.   Manufacturers often receive those damaged products for analysis, to improve their QC or determine if a recall is needed.  In the USA, you can report it to CPSC or OSHA.

http://www.greenlee.com/products/DMM%2540c-1000V-AC%2540FDC-(DM%2540d200A).html?product_id=17750

Regardless, I am disappointed that it appears that the meter died due to a short through the high current loop.  I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

70s also have limited lifetime warranties, and an event like that is also reportable to OSHA or CPSC and the meter subject to warranty.

And some dont blow the fuse when in current mode with mains or 3 phase applied, the meter explodes instead, well my Fluke 70 series did across 2 phases whilst I was being distracted fixing a machine. If they survive this then perhaps the next level awaits.

Well done and many thanks....

Muttley

[Robomeds]

Since I have long since thrown out the fuse I can't go back and verify it wasn't a fake but I really doubt it.  This damage occurred before I owned the meter so I really can't claim that the damage was the fault of a bad fuse.  It really is possible someone decided to bypass the fuse, blew the meter then put the fuse (yeah boss, I have no idea why it just broke!).  Perhaps the seller was had.  They might have bought it thinking it worked (it did power on).  When the unit arrived not working the seller gave me a refund and didn't ask for it back.  Hence after fixing it it was free (plus cost of fuse) to me and so far seems like a nice meter (really nice probes).  It's a great around the house meter because it has voltage detection. 

Since I can't say under what circumstances it failed I don't think it would be right to accuse Brymen of a bad design. 

[saturation]

Yes, you are right.  Glad you were able to get it working fairly easily with no added issues.  It should serve you well.

Since I can't say under what circumstances it failed I don't think it would be right to accuse Brymen of a bad design. 

[joeqsmith]

Watched the last three videos.   Well, I watched the hold peak too.       You mention you have a few different AMPROBE meters and the continuity feature is always poor on them.   It's interesting to see how slow that one you have is compared with the 510 I have.  On the flip side, my 101 is really slow compared with your 107.   

Does make me wonder if we need to overclock some meters...   

I liked you comment about just how much it is taking to make the videos.   That's a lot of meters to run through.   But hang in there.  Your most of the way there and doing a fine job.

[5ky]

Watched the last three videos.   Well, I watched the hold peak too.       You mention you have a few different AMPROBE meters and the continuity feature is always poor on them.   It's interesting to see how slow that one you have is compared with the 510 I have.  On the flip side, my 101 is really slow compared with your 107.   

Does make me wonder if we need to overclock some meters...   

I liked you comment about just how much it is taking to make the videos.   That's a lot of meters to run through.   But hang in there.  Your most of the way there and doing a fine job.

Thank you sir!  I recorded the Southwire, but still have to cut and upload it.  Going to try to do at least one more tonight.  I'm curious of how different the 107 is from the 101.  I suppose you'll find out soon enough!

[nanofrog]

I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

FWIW, it's my understanding they're there to protect the user rather than the meter (i.e. cost of a meter vs. human injury/life situation).

Regarding your meter, congratulations on getting it working again. 

[Robomeds]

I thought the whole idea of $10 fuses was to avoid damaging the rest of the meter.

FWIW, it's my understanding they're there to protect the user rather than the meter (i.e. cost of a meter vs. human injury/life situation).

Regarding your meter, congratulations on getting it working again. 

Most certainly that should be the most important thing!  Still, you would think that once the fuse blew that would be the end of the current path.  An spark inside the meter is exactly what we don't want.  That BTW, really makes me think that what might have gone wrong is someone blew the fuse, jumped it then blew the meter, and finally removed the "jumper" to hide the evidence.

[Robomeds]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fihUrdsyddc#t=117

Just  to be clear, the 101 is what survived.  I have never tested the 107, however I did run the 87V which was also damaged.   The 101 I have is VERY robust.   The generator ended up around 20J at 13KV.   It's not can crushing energy but could be lethal.      I started well under a J and still had meters fail.   

Good job with your continued efforts making these videos.   Looking forward to seeing the AC line voltage tests.

Joe,
I just watched a number of your videos, thanks for making them!  I did have a quick question about the cheap meter CAT 1 testing.  You noted the meters that failed to function after a CAT 1 test and then noted the meters were "rated" at CAT 2 or even 3 (The Mastec is the one where this caught my attention).  I thought the CAT ratings simply mean the meter will not harm the user when subjected to the test.  I thought failure to function was OK.  Am I wrong in thinking that all of the meters you tested "passed" at least that part of the CAT 1 test since none caught fire, exploded etc?

I was thinking about this because one of your videos linked to one of mjlorton's videos where Fluke engineers show a cheap meter exploding

[joeqsmith]

Joe,
I just watched a number of your videos, thanks for making them!  I did have a quick question about the cheap meter CAT 1 testing.  You noted the meters that failed to function after a CAT 1 test and then noted the meters were "rated" at CAT 2 or even 3 (The Mastec is the one where this caught my attention).  I thought the CAT ratings simply mean the meter will not harm the user when subjected to the test.  I thought failure to function was OK.  Am I wrong in thinking that all of the meters you tested "passed" at least that part of the CAT 1 test since none caught fire, exploded etc?

I was thinking about this because one of your videos linked to one of mjlorton's videos where Fluke engineers show a cheap meter exploding

Thanks.  Glad you enjoyed them.   During the time I was making them,  I was asked several times about the design of my transient generator.  You want to know how to make a KJ test jig at home??   I know how and will give you my secret.   Start with a 20J test jig, add some ignorance and drama to it. There you have it, instant high risk death machine capable of exploding meters and causing fires!      

I don't believe I ever claimed to test to an IEC standard, nor was it ever my intent to.  These were very low energy stress tests ran only to see how robust the meters were.   Well, that and provide some entertainment.   I did however provide details about each setup as I went through it.   If you would like to know if a specific meter met it's CAT rating, you would need to go to an accredited lab.   

As for your question, I would contact some manufactures and see what you can find out.  It was covered but I don't believe you will get a clear answer. 

If 5ky does decide he would like to give up his meters for another round of destructive testing (I think he said $600 or something out of pocket) to help us learn more about how robust these meters are, I will continue to test them from a low energy source.     I would be willing to bet 5ky is starting to think that the time invested is worth more than the cash. 

[5ky]

Joe,
I just watched a number of your videos, thanks for making them!  I did have a quick question about the cheap meter CAT 1 testing.  You noted the meters that failed to function after a CAT 1 test and then noted the meters were "rated" at CAT 2 or even 3 (The Mastec is the one where this caught my attention).  I thought the CAT ratings simply mean the meter will not harm the user when subjected to the test.  I thought failure to function was OK.  Am I wrong in thinking that all of the meters you tested "passed" at least that part of the CAT 1 test since none caught fire, exploded etc?

I was thinking about this because one of your videos linked to one of mjlorton's videos where Fluke engineers show a cheap meter exploding

Thanks.  Glad you enjoyed them.   During the time I was making them,  I was asked several times about the design of my transient generator.  You want to know how to make a KJ test jig at home??   I know how and will give you my secret.   Start with a 20J test jig, add some ignorance and drama to it. There you have it, instant high risk death machine capable of exploding meters and causing fires!      

I don't believe I ever claimed to test to an IEC standard, nor was it ever my intent to.  These were very low energy stress tests ran only to see how robust the meters were.   Well, that and provide some entertainment.   I did however provide details about each setup as I went through it.   If you would like to know if a specific meter met it's CAT rating, you would need to go to an accredited lab.   

As for your question, I would contact some manufactures and see what you can find out.  It was covered but I don't believe you will get a clear answer. 

If 5ky does decide he would like to give up his meters for another round of destructive testing (I think he said $600 or something out of pocket) to help us learn more about how robust these meters are, I will continue to test them from a low energy source.     I would be willing to bet 5ky is starting to think that the time invested is worth more than the cash. 

I'm done recording--just need to do the cutting, then I can do the drop tests and the mains on ohms, then I'll send the survivers to you for some more "love".   

[joeqsmith]

I'm all caught up.  Looking forward to seeing them!

[george graves]

Seriously mods....can we get this pinned/stickied to the top of the Test Equipment sub-forum? I think it's worthy of it - and will help a lot of people out.

[joeqsmith]

5ky, you're moving too quick.  Watched the Southwire and saw you have the UEI up now.   I can't keep up!      

I sketched up the design for the new generator and ran some simulations on it over the last couple of days.   I still need to pick a new connector, test out the switch design and if that works, order parts.      Depending how the testing goes, maybe 5 weeks out unless I get really motivated.  So take your time!!

[joeqsmith]

Made a very small amount of progress on the new transient generator.  While testing, I ended up damaging one of my power supplies.   Had to order a few parts to make the repairs so I ordered the first parts for the new generator as well.   

I often wonder how well these fancy modern supplies would hold up to my tortures of home hobby use.   Over the years, I have damaged more power supplies than any other test equipment.    This one is getting some transorbs this time to hopefully harden it a bit.   

[5ky]

Made a very small amount of progress on the new transient generator.  While testing, I ended up damaging one of my power supplies.   Had to order a few parts to make the repairs so I ordered the first parts for the new generator as well.   

I often wonder how well these fancy modern supplies would hold up to my tortures of home hobby use.   Over the years, I have damaged more power supplies than any other test equipment.    This one is getting some transorbs this time to hopefully harden it a bit.

Nice!  What goes into a transient generator?  Cap bank and SCR to fire it with?

I'm about to wrap up the last multimeter review, and then it's mains on ohms time, then drop tests in the garage.  I doubt I'll get this all cut and uploaded today, but in the next few days I would imagine.  Then I'll put the meters in a plastic tote in the basement where they'll live until you give me the green light to mail them to you. 

UPDATE: Mains on ohms (technically i swept the entire range on each meter) testing is done.  Just have to head to the garage to do drop tests.  I considered doing slow-mo and stuff, but that requires really good lighting and extra work so I'm not sure if I'll go through all that trouble when I can drop just it and show the results 

[joeqsmith]

Nice!  What goes into a transient generator?  Cap bank and SCR to fire it with?

I'm about to wrap up the last multimeter review, and then it's mains on ohms time, then drop tests in the garage.  I doubt I'll get this all cut and uploaded today, but in the next few days I would imagine.  Then I'll put the meters in a plastic tote in the basement where they'll live until you give me the green light to mail them to you. 

I gave a few links that gave the basic generator.  One had a SPICE model.  My first ones were very simple as there has been no AC carrier and no polarity switching.  Switching can be done any number of ways.   This is actually what I was working on when I damage my power supply.      For the capacitors, you just need to pay attention to the data sheets.      The one member showed a video inside of their commercial unit.   It was pretty interesting.   Their system also did not couple to the AC line.   I'll put together some videos of the generator once it starts to go together. 

Where any of the meters damaged in the AC line test?.....  No, never mind.  Don't spoil it!!   

[tautech]

found it
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hear-kitty-kitty-kitty-nope-not-that-kind-of-cat/
thanks again joeqsmith for his experiments and of interest to me n some others is the surge generator

Yeah it was pretty neat IMO.
Wonder if the DMM's 5ky will send Joe will continue the kitty kitty thread or be part of this one? 

[5ky]

Mains on all ranges uploaded.  Got drop tests recorded but didn't have time to record the aftermath.  The slow motion turned out much better than I had expected.  Hopefully I'll have that uploaded tonight. 

[joeqsmith]

Good video.  As long as the meters are just sitting there, maybe you could verify that all of the functions still work, not just the AC volts and run them at the same line voltage Dave does.