New ANENG Q1 9999 Counts ?

[floobydust]

ANENG fake IEC61010 approval claims are for a 3V appliance. Good to know the AAA batteries are safe 
Small design changes and they could make something so much better.

There's at least 200 segments on the LCD, and I think 4com x 15seg LCD driver is the most in the Hycon single chip lineup.
You could free up pins for muxing the extra LCD bargraph/digits by ditching the rotary switch... which might explain this design?

[Jon.C]

waiting ....     

[adynis]

I purchased it last week from : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32879781150/32879781150.html?shortkey=3mQrIvqI&addresstype=600

Just that it takes 4...5.. weeks to receive packages from Asia to Romania...

[Jon.C]

Dave already has one!

mine may be that I have it today ...

[Fungus]

Dave already has one!

Next up: The EEVBLOG branded version...!

[001]

Can You spoiler this video? What he says in few words?
(I  can`t understand Dave when he speaks. But I can read)

[Jon.C]

Can You spoiler this video? What he says in few words?
(I  can`t understand Dave when he speaks. But I can read)

is twitter

[EEVblog]

[Fungus]

....current consumption will be about 40mA.

Wrong!

I'm guessing it has to be a boost converter. ... battery life will be awful if it can't keep going down to 2V.

Wronger!

We finally found a use for the Batteriser!   

Looks like it updates at the same speed as the numbers, about 3 times/sec.

I got that one right though.



The datasheet for this says you're supposed to solder the middle pin to something:



Conclusion: This meter isn't aimed at engineers or anybody who does anything more than look at the sales brochure before purchase, ie. they'll sell millions.

[Muttley Snickers]

I haven't read the manual as yet but did notice as Dave was flicking through the booklet on page 3 it made mention of the Max-Min feature which is also shown on the display in the marketing images, along with Peak or peak hold it appears that they have disabled these features or perhaps intend to use the same display for the next model up.

[Kleinstein]

The relay may be needed because of the buttons instead of the mechanical switch.  The main purpose is likely to isolate the Ohms current source - also using it for the mV ranges is more like an extra to keep the noise low. For the ohms sense they still need to go through those melf resistors though. It is odd to have both relay contacts in parallel - I would more like expect the two contacts in series if they really mean the CAT rating seriously and not just by Chinese standards.

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side. The ICL8069 is kind of a low power TL431 grade reference.

[joeqsmith]

At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.

[HKJ]

The meter was just as I expected, but I am not sure that bargraph is 100 separate segments, i suspects they are grouped.
It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

[Fungus]

The relay may be needed because of the buttons instead of the mechanical switch.  The main purpose is likely to isolate the Ohms current source - also using it for the mV ranges is more like an extra to keep the noise low.

Yep. It looks like it switches in when the probes are an "output" (Ohms, continuity, diode, etc.)

The the PTC should really be before before the relay, but they put the PTC after the range switch in their other meters so nothing new there. It probably doesn't matter, if you're doing something incorrect enough to wreck the range switch then that little PTC probably isn't going to save you.

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side.

It must be touching somewhere or the meter wouldn't work.

I'd like to give it a wiggle and see what happens.

[Fungus]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

[HKJ]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

mV will often go through the PTC and may be high input impedance, but input from ohms cannot go through the PTC.

[Fungus]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

mV will often go through the PTC and may be high input impedance, but input from ohms cannot go through the PTC.

The output current for Ohms will go through the PTC, the voltage measurement will be done on the mV path.

(the rest is Ohm's law  ).

[HKJ]

The output current for Ohms will go through the PTC,

Correct

the voltage measurement will be done on the mV path.

This is a maybe

[sleemanj]

Well I was pleased to see 20x5 fuses at least they are readily obtainable, of course they are only 250v rated, if they'd just mark the current jacks as "250v Max" I'd be happy with that (like the MS8233 and various rebadges thereof).

That display and consequent battery life would be an easy fix for the factory you'd hope, just switch it out for a non-inverted one and perhaps make BL a long-press on Range or something, then it needs the 10 and 100 current ranges of course.

[malagas_on_fire]

Well the current drain of 17mA as i said in the video review is almost the double as the clamp meter uni-t ut204A in 40 / 600 DC Amps, also the trip point  of low voltage seems very low for the display. what about the measures, are they viable at that voltage? It would be nice to turn that off or implement levels off brightness.

 

[EEVblog]

The datasheet for this says you're supposed to solder the middle pin to something:

So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.

[EEVblog]

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side.

It must be touching somewhere or the meter wouldn't work.
I'd like to give it a wiggle and see what happens.

I can assure you it's soldered on the other side, no problem.

[joeqsmith]

A few days ago, I picked up a Harbor Freight free meter to see if it could handle a KV like the 121GW.  When I took the cover off, I noticed some fine workmanship.  Note how they save money by not soldering the bottom side as well.     

While my ZT102 has a few modifications, including one of Dave's ASTM fuses, note the box it was shipped in.

[GreyWoolfe]

Joe, you got exactly what you paid for!! 

[rdl]

This one looks like a dud. Why haven't they included the milliamp ranges yet again? 

I think that type of display would look good and work nicely on a cheap bench meter though.