New ANENG Q1 9999 Counts ?

[Jon.C]

another for the collection... 


https://www.banggood.com/ANENG-Q1-9999-Counts-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-AC-DC-Voltage-Current-Resistance-Capacitance-Tester-p-1302943.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

[BravoV]

Soft power button ... hmm ... the 1st thing pop out of my mind is ... how much is the off/stand by current ? Will it drain the battery ?

[joeqsmith]

Normally in any of my tests, these ANENG meters put the PTC and clamp after the switch, the switch arcs and that's the end of it.   I tried testing one of the rotary switches on one as well and destroyed it. 

This thing being so different, make me wonder.   Think they auto detect the leads to switch to current as I see no buttons for it? 

[Jon.C]

Soft power button ... hmm ... the 1st thing pop out of my mind is ... how much is the off/stand by current ? Will it drain the battery ?

when it arrives I will check if it has consumption when it is off   

[Fungus]

This thing being so different, make me wonder.   Think they auto detect the leads to switch to current as I see no buttons for it?

None, apart from where it says "DCA/ACA >2S POWER" on the case... 

Ok, I read the manual. You press the power button for longer then 2 seconds to turn it on.

Once it's powered on you press it to toggle amps mode.

[Jon.C]

Normally in any of my tests, these ANENG meters put the PTC and clamp after the switch, the switch arcs and that's the end of it.   I tried testing one of the rotary switches on one as well and destroyed it. 

This thing being so different, make me wonder.   Think they auto detect the leads to switch to current as I see no buttons for it?

Hello Joe

nice to meet you




user manual


http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20180530013032ANENGQ1.pdf

[ataradov]

I want to see the quality of LCD. This is quite a photoshop job they did there. Other Aneng meters have unusable viewing angles.

[nidlaX]

I want to see the quality of LCD. This is quite a photoshop job they did there. Other Aneng meters have unusable viewing angles.

Very interested to see if they can pull off a good high contrast negative display. Then again, it's not that cheap right now.

[Fungus]

user manual

http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20180530013032ANENGQ1.pdf

 

Basic DC accuracy 0.5%.
TRMS up to 1kHz
No middle milliamp ranges - it jumps from 1A to 1mA.

Very interested to see if they can pull off a good high contrast negative display. Then again, it's not that cheap right now.

Me too.

They generally don't work for me, the shadows cast inside the 'white' of the digits make them look blurry.

[bitwelder]

If that's a Banggood promotion, I guess soon we'll have a flurry of youtubers+tinkerers posting their reviews about it.

[daveshah]

Also being sold, as always with these things, as the "ZOTEK ZOYI ZT-X"

Video here:


Longer video in Chinese: https://www.bilibili.com/video/av23841752/

Display looks very nice, but almost certainly battery-destroying.

[nidlaX]

Longer video in Chinese: https://www.bilibili.com/video/av23841752/

Analog bar graph looks slightly useful, but certainly nowhere near Brymen fast.

It's also chubbier than the AN8009. Display looks like good stuff!

[Fungus]

Display looks very nice, but almost certainly battery-destroying.

Looks like really black LCD with a bright, constantly on, backlight. Not as battery-destroying as an OLED but still, could easily be 1more than 50mA consumption.

[Fungus]

Longer video in Chinese: https://www.bilibili.com/video/av23841752/

Analog bar graph looks slightly useful, but certainly nowhere near Brymen fast.

Looks like it updates at the same speed as the numbers, about 3 times/sec.

Hard to say though, he only had leads connected to the meter for about 0.0000000000001% of that video

(and even when they were he was just clicking aimlessly on his resistor box)

[EEVblog]

If that's a Banggood promotion, I guess soon we'll have a flurry of youtubers+tinkerers posting their reviews about it.

Banggood have a dozens of people who reach out to bloggers with freebie offers. Not just one marketing person, seriously, dozens 

[nidlaX]

Longer video in Chinese: https://www.bilibili.com/video/av23841752/

Analog bar graph looks slightly useful, but certainly nowhere near Brymen fast.

Looks like it updates at the same speed as the numbers, about 3 times/sec.

Hard to say though, he only had leads connected to the meter for about 0.0000000000001% of that video

(and even when they were he was just clicking aimlessly on his resistor box)

It looked (and he said it was) slightly faster than the digital updates.

[Fungus]

Not particularly accurate/special but it looks flashy.

Even with poor battery life this meter might be usable with rechargeable batteries. The batteries are removable so you can swap them out and continue without having to stop and recharge the meter for an hour.

They should have used a magnetic catch on the battery door so make it faster to get in/out with no tools.

[Fungus]

Looks like it updates at the same speed as the numbers, about 3 times/sec.

It looked (and he said it was) slightly faster than the digital updates.

I don't speak the language so I'll take your word for it. It's impossible to tell from that video.

I'd swear there's a precision voltage reference on the bottom-right corner of his desk for the entire video, but nooo... 

[joeqsmith]

Normally in any of my tests, these ANENG meters put the PTC and clamp after the switch, the switch arcs and that's the end of it.   I tried testing one of the rotary switches on one as well and destroyed it. 

This thing being so different, make me wonder.   Think they auto detect the leads to switch to current as I see no buttons for it?

Hello Joe

nice to meet you


user manual
http://img.banggood.com/file/products/20180530013032ANENGQ1.pdf

Lead detection, wow!  They are moving up the scale.   I want to see one apart.   

[Fungus]

Lead detection, wow!  They are moving up the scale.

The price has gone up 50% for the same basic specs so they must have improved something.

I want to see one apart.

The banggood site is on "preorder" at the moment.

[ebastler]

They should have used a magnetic catch on the battery door so make it faster to get in/out with no tools.

I think safety regulations get in the way of that idea.

[joeqsmith]

They should have used a magnetic catch on the battery door so make it faster to get in/out with no tools.

I think safety regulations get in the way of that idea.

  Now THAT is funny!!!!

[maginnovision]

They should have used a magnetic catch on the battery door so make it faster to get in/out with no tools.

I think safety regulations get in the way of that idea.

  Now THAT is funny!!!!

They could have some safety suggestions they use, you never know.

[Fungus]

Now THAT is funny!!!!

You don't think it will meet its CAT rating? 

I notice they've gone down a CAT level, it's now CAT II/III instead of CAT III/IV.

[joeqsmith]

They should have used a magnetic catch on the battery door so make it faster to get in/out with no tools.

I think safety regulations get in the way of that idea.

  Now THAT is funny!!!!

They could have some safety suggestions they use, you never know.

Well, it does not have the CAT III 600V safety rating like my ZT102.  So they have made some improvements.   

[joeqsmith]

Now THAT is funny!!!!

You don't think it will meet its CAT rating? 

I notice they've gone down a CAT level, it's now CAT II/III instead of CAT III/IV.

  You were quicker.

[joeqsmith]

Put a few drops of pump gasoline on that lens and let me know what happens.   It it just another pretty meter?

[Fungus]

I notice they've gone down a CAT level, it's now CAT II/III instead of CAT III/IV.

  You were quicker.

Maybe they'll have the last laugh. 

Actually, I know they will. Whatever's inside it, no matter how power hungry the screen is, I'm sure they're going to sell millions with a design like that. I'm almost tempted to be the first to have one at Arduino club.

[GreyWoolfe]

And now that the Q1 is out, the 8009, that I paid $19.99 for is now $34.99.  A whole dollar more than the Q1.  I guess they want you to buy the Q1 now.  I am surprised that they didn't do the same pricing on the 8008.

[Mr. Scram]

I want to see the quality of LCD. This is quite a photoshop job they did there. Other Aneng meters have unusable viewing angles.

What makes you say that? The Aneng meters are far from perfect, but the viewing angles and contrast are on par or better with meters from the big boys.

[sleemanj]

The display sure doe look nice, but not if it's at massive battery life destruction.

Not sure about the pushy buttons, but then again, is a preference for dial just really being traditionalist for no reason.

I live in hope that they use proper sized and obtainable fuses, but I won't hold my breath.

[Fungus]

I live in hope that they use proper sized and obtainable fuses, but I won't hold my breath.

It's bigger than the AN8008 et. al., they already use ordinary size fuses in their bigger meters (eg. the 860B+).

[EEVblog]

I've ordered one, we'll see what's it like.
I don't particularly like the inverse screen, might be better in the flesh.

[Fungus]

The display sure doe look nice, but not if it's at massive battery life destruction.

Judging by the unevenness of the backlight in the first video, it looks like they're using two LEDs, one on either side of the screen.


If so, current consumption will be about 40mA. With a 2000mA battery that's 50 hours, not good but not awful. For most users of this class of meter it's going to last for many months.

It's nothing like the soul-destroying power consumption of those Agilent OLED meters (which also can't be used while they recharge  ).

[daveshah]

Yes, at least it uses AA batteries (confirmed here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/OUTEST-ZT-X-digital-multimeter-ac-dc-Ammeter-voltmeter-Ohm-Portable-meter-9999-counts-Backlight-true/32880281145.html), so it shouldn't be too bad and you can stick nice high capacity ones in if you want.

[maginnovision]

The display sure doe look nice, but not if it's at massive battery life destruction.

Judging by the unevenness of the backlight in the first video, it looks like they're using two LEDs, one on either side.

If so, current consumption will be about 40mA. With a 2000mA battery that's 50 hours, not good but not awful. For most users of this class of meter it's going to last for many months.

It's nothing like the soul-destroying power consumption of those Agilent OLED meters (which also can't be used while they recharge  ).

I think that's assuming no other issues. My AN870 eats batteries whether it is off or on and to use it I typically have to replace them. It's in my "Maybe I should just throw it out?" pile. Two LED's is a good guess, it's what they've been doing this far.

[Fungus]

Yes, at least it uses AA batteries (confirmed here)

Also shown in the second video (he installs them on camera).

You can clearly see there's two LEDs in the publicity shot from that page:


(You'd think they'd have photoshopped that image...  )

The display probably looks good in a dim basement, maybe not so much in a brightly lit office. 

Edit: It looks distinctly "Meh" in this other image from the same page:

[HKJ]

Judging by the unevenness of the backlight in the first video, it looks like they're using two LEDs, one on either side of the screen.
If so, current consumption will be about 40mA. With a 2000mA battery that's 50 hours, not good but not awful. For most users of this class of meter it's going to last for many months.

I wonder how you estimate the current consumption, a meter with one led can easily be below 10mA.

[HKJ]

My AN870 eats batteries whether it is off or on and to use it I typically have to replace them. It's in my "Maybe I should just throw it out?" pile.

You obvious have a faulty meter or use faulty batteries. The meter do not use current when the range switch is on off and uses less than 2mA in on (Backlight adds about 7mA).

[Fungus]

I wonder how you estimate the current consumption, a meter with one led can easily be blow 10mA.

Sure, but that's for reading in the dark.

This looks like the display depends on the LEDs for contrast so I'd assume they want them to be as bright as possible. They certainly look bright in the second video.

(besides, there's nothing wrong with "worst case" analysis)

[Mr. Scram]

I see it has a bar graph. That could actually be interesting.

[stj]

the real questions,
what chip does it use,
and does the led circuit use a boost convertor or a resistor?
because the older meters light a lot dimmer on rechargeable batteries.

[Fungus]

and does the led circuit use a boost convertor or a resistor?

I'm guessing it has to be a boost converter.

The fancy screen depends on those white LEDs and battery life will be awful if it can't keep going down to 2V.

[Doctorandus_P]

I also spotted this meter as "Richmeter RM409B"

https://fr.aliexpress.com/store/product/RM409B-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-Button-9999-Counts-With-Analog-Bar-Graph-AC-DC-Voltage-Ammeter/909123_32878214801.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.792b41f1t0Su4P

Here another view of this meter:
https://cloud.video.taobao.com/play/u/17300505178/p/1/e/6/t/10301/50143362094.mp4

Display looks good, but I won't buy a DMM which sucks the batteries empty faster than a vampire could.
I'm kind of intrigued by the UI from rotary switch to push buttons.
I never liked the big rotary switches on DMM's.
But I also don't like to push a button a gazillion times to select between funktions.
My ideal UI would be a push button for each funktion, like a lot of the benchtop DMM's do.

I am curious about an in depth review of this thing though.
I really would like to know which chip is in it and how they do the switching between the different functions.

[Fungus]

But I also don't like to push a button a gazillion times to select between funktions.

You already need to push buttons to select functions on many multimeters, eg. a lot of them put Ohms, continuity and diode on the same position on the dial and you have press a button to select the one you want.

Overall I don't think this meter is more button pushes than before. It looks like it actually might be less overall.

(and how many button pushes equals one use of the dial? Dialing is often a two-handed operation)

I'm kind of intrigued by the UI from rotary switch to push buttons.

[maginnovision]

My AN870 eats batteries whether it is off or on and to use it I typically have to replace them. It's in my "Maybe I should just throw it out?" pile.

You obvious have a faulty meter or use faulty batteries. The meter do not use current when the range switch is on off and uses less than 2mA in on (Backlight adds about 7mA).

The batteries are fine considering every single thing I put them in works normally. As to a bad meter, that's more or less the point. I bought 2. One was pretty much DOA and the second eats batteries. Considering the one I sent back apparently disappeared in the mail on its way and I still like to see what they manage but I'll probably stick to real quality meters.

[crazyguy]

and does the led circuit use a boost convertor or a resistor?

I'm guessing it has to be a boost converter.

The fancy screen depends on those white LEDs and battery life will be awful if it can't keep going down to 2V.

When you see a cheap multimeter with NCV function, almost you can assume it is based on Taiwan Hycon chipset, with bar-graph function, most likely it is Hycon two chipset DMM solution.

[sleemanj]

When you see a cheap multimeter with NCV function, almost you can assume it is based on Taiwan Hycon chipset, with bar-graph function, most likely it is Hycon two chipset DMM solution.

I'd put money on it being a DTM0660L or variant there of (eg DM1106EN)

[all_repair]

and does the led circuit use a boost convertor or a resistor?

I'm guessing it has to be a boost converter.

The fancy screen depends on those white LEDs and battery life will be awful if it can't keep going down to 2V.

When you see a cheap multimeter with NCV function, almost you can assume it is based on Taiwan Hycon chipset, with bar-graph function, most likely it is Hycon two chipset DMM solution.

My experience buying from drop shipper (bangood included) is no good.  My guess is they are selling QC failed items.
ZT-303 is another interesting meter.

[crazyguy]

When you see a cheap multimeter with NCV function, almost you can assume it is based on Taiwan Hycon chipset, with bar-graph function, most likely it is Hycon two chipset DMM solution.

I'd put money on it being a DTM0660L or variant there of (eg DM1106EN)

DTM0660L is Hycon HY12P66 chipset

take a look HYELEC MS8236 DMM (similar to Q1), it is using DTA0660L (HY12P6x series) + HY11P14


https://mysku.ru/blog/china-stores/42852.html

[floobydust]

ANENG fake IEC61010 approval claims are for a 3V appliance. Good to know the AAA batteries are safe 
Small design changes and they could make something so much better.

There's at least 200 segments on the LCD, and I think 4com x 15seg LCD driver is the most in the Hycon single chip lineup.
You could free up pins for muxing the extra LCD bargraph/digits by ditching the rotary switch... which might explain this design?

[Jon.C]

waiting ....     

[adynis]

I purchased it last week from : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32879781150/32879781150.html?shortkey=3mQrIvqI&addresstype=600

Just that it takes 4...5.. weeks to receive packages from Asia to Romania...

[Jon.C]

Dave already has one!

mine may be that I have it today ...

[Fungus]

Dave already has one!

Next up: The EEVBLOG branded version...!

[001]

Can You spoiler this video? What he says in few words?
(I  can`t understand Dave when he speaks. But I can read)

[Jon.C]

Can You spoiler this video? What he says in few words?
(I  can`t understand Dave when he speaks. But I can read)

is twitter

[EEVblog]

[Fungus]

....current consumption will be about 40mA.

Wrong!

I'm guessing it has to be a boost converter. ... battery life will be awful if it can't keep going down to 2V.

Wronger!

We finally found a use for the Batteriser!   

Looks like it updates at the same speed as the numbers, about 3 times/sec.

I got that one right though.



The datasheet for this says you're supposed to solder the middle pin to something:



Conclusion: This meter isn't aimed at engineers or anybody who does anything more than look at the sales brochure before purchase, ie. they'll sell millions.

[Muttley Snickers]

I haven't read the manual as yet but did notice as Dave was flicking through the booklet on page 3 it made mention of the Max-Min feature which is also shown on the display in the marketing images, along with Peak or peak hold it appears that they have disabled these features or perhaps intend to use the same display for the next model up.

[Kleinstein]

The relay may be needed because of the buttons instead of the mechanical switch.  The main purpose is likely to isolate the Ohms current source - also using it for the mV ranges is more like an extra to keep the noise low. For the ohms sense they still need to go through those melf resistors though. It is odd to have both relay contacts in parallel - I would more like expect the two contacts in series if they really mean the CAT rating seriously and not just by Chinese standards.

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side. The ICL8069 is kind of a low power TL431 grade reference.

[joeqsmith]

At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.

[HKJ]

The meter was just as I expected, but I am not sure that bargraph is 100 separate segments, i suspects they are grouped.
It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

[Fungus]

The relay may be needed because of the buttons instead of the mechanical switch.  The main purpose is likely to isolate the Ohms current source - also using it for the mV ranges is more like an extra to keep the noise low.

Yep. It looks like it switches in when the probes are an "output" (Ohms, continuity, diode, etc.)

The the PTC should really be before before the relay, but they put the PTC after the range switch in their other meters so nothing new there. It probably doesn't matter, if you're doing something incorrect enough to wreck the range switch then that little PTC probably isn't going to save you.

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side.

It must be touching somewhere or the meter wouldn't work.

I'd like to give it a wiggle and see what happens.

[Fungus]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

[HKJ]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

mV will often go through the PTC and may be high input impedance, but input from ohms cannot go through the PTC.

[Fungus]

It also looks like the meter has two inputs after the relay, one through the PTC one around (This is a fairly common design).

The "PTC" path will be for 'output' modes, the other path will be mV - less impedance than the main volts range.

mV will often go through the PTC and may be high input impedance, but input from ohms cannot go through the PTC.

The output current for Ohms will go through the PTC, the voltage measurement will be done on the mV path.

(the rest is Ohm's law  ).

[HKJ]

The output current for Ohms will go through the PTC,

Correct

the voltage measurement will be done on the mV path.

This is a maybe

[sleemanj]

Well I was pleased to see 20x5 fuses at least they are readily obtainable, of course they are only 250v rated, if they'd just mark the current jacks as "250v Max" I'd be happy with that (like the MS8233 and various rebadges thereof).

That display and consequent battery life would be an easy fix for the factory you'd hope, just switch it out for a non-inverted one and perhaps make BL a long-press on Range or something, then it needs the 10 and 100 current ranges of course.

[malagas_on_fire]

Well the current drain of 17mA as i said in the video review is almost the double as the clamp meter uni-t ut204A in 40 / 600 DC Amps, also the trip point  of low voltage seems very low for the display. what about the measures, are they viable at that voltage? It would be nice to turn that off or implement levels off brightness.

 

[EEVblog]

The datasheet for this says you're supposed to solder the middle pin to something:

So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.

[EEVblog]

The soldering on the reference does not look that good - it's likely soldered in the other side.

It must be touching somewhere or the meter wouldn't work.
I'd like to give it a wiggle and see what happens.

I can assure you it's soldered on the other side, no problem.

[joeqsmith]

A few days ago, I picked up a Harbor Freight free meter to see if it could handle a KV like the 121GW.  When I took the cover off, I noticed some fine workmanship.  Note how they save money by not soldering the bottom side as well.     

While my ZT102 has a few modifications, including one of Dave's ASTM fuses, note the box it was shipped in.

[GreyWoolfe]

Joe, you got exactly what you paid for!! 

[rdl]

This one looks like a dud. Why haven't they included the milliamp ranges yet again? 

I think that type of display would look good and work nicely on a cheap bench meter though.

[rodcastler]

So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.

I think you're missing the point Dave: Many would believe that this is probably soldered properly on the other side without seeing it, but our eyes are trained to go straight to those unsoldered pads and so are yours. What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come even you zoomed right into it. I tend to believe you would have normally complained against this solder job, since it just doesn't seem right.

[Fungus]

So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.

What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come.

It also didn't help that the view of that component was chosen as the thumbnail for the video. 

FWIW, this is the view from underneath when Dave flips the board over:



All three pins look solid enough from that angle, it's just that there's only one pin where the solder wicked through to the other side.

[rsjsouza]

So many people commented on that.
This is common for hand soldered through hole parts, the solder didn't flow through from the bottom. It's not generally a problem, just inconsistency in the hand soldering.

I think you're missing the point Dave: Many would believe that this is probably soldered properly on the other side without seeing it, but our eyes are trained to go straight to those unsoldered pads and so are yours. What really happens here is that we were all popcorn-ready for your reaction. We usually get Dave's rant against incomplete soldering -which we enjoy so much- and in this case it didn't come even you zoomed right into it. I tend to believe you would have normally complained against this solder job, since it just doesn't seem right.

I was one that addressed this in the Patreon comments. Later in the video Dave specifically talked about soldering quality, which added to the strangeness of his silence.

I have seen this in other meters too, with much larger parts. For a portable product, leaving tall through hole parts with soldering gaps like these is asking for problems in the long run (not that Aneng is caring too much for that, though).

My comment on Patreon:
Great video; I really liked the Zoom without loss of detail (I didn't watch it in 4k, though). Pretty boring multimeter. Since you mentioned soldering quality, one thing I never understood in cheap meters is what is seen at 2:46. How come they can't properly solder a through hole part that flows to the other side of the board?!? I have seen this poor job in some Radioshack DMMs I had on the 10A fuse holders! Incomprehensible.

[stj]

most likely the skill of the assembler.
the smd with be automated, but the throughhole is usually done afterwards by a human.

[MacMeter]

At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.

Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?

[floobydust]

It's a flop for the backlight LED going out below 2.6V and the fake 100 segment bargraph.
From the videos, it's in groups of three, so around 30 segments. Dave got fooled Not really worth adding that big IC to drive a few more LCD segments?

I don't mind the negative contrast/transmissive LCD.

The DMM IC has a charge-pump for the LCD drive, add a few parts and it should be able to drive the LED's, although noise will affect the uV range.


Looking at AA battery discharge curves to 1.35V it looks like about 1/3 capacity and usable for about 60hrs at 16mA drain
Energizer E91
Duracell professional leakers.


Latching relays are notorious for changing states when bumped.
Not sure what this meter does if it plops over due to the crappy stand. I hope it stays safe if the relay changes by accident.

[Fungus]

Latching relays are notorious for changing states when bumped.
Not sure what this meter does if it plops over due to the crappy stand. I hope it stays safe if the relay changes by accident.

Sounds like a test for joe to do...

[floobydust]

The PCB is still kindergarten-grade, with silly ground-pours and input traces running halfway across the world.

Transients will easily zot a PCB trace or the relay will arc contacts-coil. Let's save the world $38 and say the DMM is a bit weak.

[joeqsmith]

I tried dropping the Gossen Ultra and was unable to get the relays to change states.   Transient wise, they have not changed how they protect the inputs.  I suspect it would fail roughly the same as the other Anengs I have looked at.  I also suspect the LCD lens is made from the same poor materials that melt when exposed to gasoline. 

At 6 min in the PTC and clamp node I suspect is the drive side for the diode, resistance, capacitance, etc. modes. The high impedance leg is the input. You should hear the relay switch in anytime you change to one of the other modes.

Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?

What is it you would want to see?  We could try to see where it breaks down at.  Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW.  I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen. 

[Fungus]

Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?

What is it you would want to see?  We could try to see where it breaks down at.  Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW.  I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen.

How about testing it to see if it can give a dangerously incorrect reading if the relay is flipped, like the Gossen does?

(I suspect that this one won't, that the AC voltage range will be unaffected...)

[MacMeter]

@Joe:Don’t test one on my account, as my first two Aneng’s are good enough.

The fault you found with the “magnetic hanger” test was CRAZY interesting. Granted the odds might be great, but under the right, or I should say wrong circumstances, having a mode change reset due to a magnet could be cause for a bad day. Something Dave could test in a minute since he has this model now.

[joeqsmith]

Might we see a new “RELAY switch” test video in the future on this model?

What is it you would want to see?  We could try to see where it breaks down at.  Dave could have used his HV supplies to at least make sure it could handle the same levels as the 121GW.  I suspect you can get it to change states with a magnetic hanger like the Gossen.

How about testing it to see if it can give a dangerously incorrect reading if the relay is flipped, like the Gossen does?

(I suspect that this one won't, that the AC voltage range will be unaffected...)

I thought Dave said the voltage mode is direct fed and that same node goes off to the relay.  If the relay changes with a high current, high voltage source, as I mentioned you may get a light show.  The Ultra may do the same thing.  But this meter should not behave like the Ultra where it displays a low voltage when the relay changes states.   

@Joe:Don’t test one on my account, as my first two Aneng’s are good enough.

The fault you found with the “magnetic hanger” test was CRAZY interesting. Granted the odds might be great, but under the right, or I should say wrong circumstances, having a mode change reset due to a magnet could be cause for a bad day. Something Dave could test in a minute since he has this model now.

Just a really bad design IMO.  The standards should not allow this marketing wonder to exist and the engineers should have known better. 

[stj]

if they had used green led's they would be good until the cpu shut down!

does anybody know the type of fuse they used?

daves video is his usual casual not-thinking type.
stares at the ceramic - "no markings on the fuse".
you would think he would know that ceramics are rarely marked because the details are stamped/etched on the endcaps.

[malagas_on_fire]

Hi and here is old kind of cen-tech meter that blow whiile i was trying to measure AC volts in most high AC scale on one mains socket in my house , that was laying around on my garage. The last thing i remember is the number 1535 and then a "bang"  .
It seems that a PTC was blown , the Voltage input trace was also blown, detached from the PCB and of course it doesn't work. On the back there are remains of the explosion. Makes me think that a similar construction is so susceptible to spurious transients on the AC.

Its a free meter maybe but also a free explosion

[malagas_on_fire]

Hi and here is old kind of cen-tech meter that blow whiile i was trying to measure AC volts in most high AC scale on one mains socket in my house , that was laying around on my garage. The last thing i remember is the number 1535 and then a "bang"  .
It seems that a PTC was blown , the Voltage input trace was also blown, detached from the PCB and of course it doesn't work. On the back there are remains of the explosion. Makes me think that a similar construction is so susceptible to spurious transients on the AC.

Its a free meter maybe but also a free explosion

The image of the multimeter with lifted trace.

[stj]

you cant really blame the meter when it's full of crap & spider-web.

[maginnovision]

you cant really blame the meter when it's full of crap & spider-web.

Spider ingress is a design issue.

[malagas_on_fire]

Back then it was more clean ... now spiders and dust make it really useless under my garage  . Sorry for not cleaning this.

[badboygolf16v]

I recently bought an Aneng Q1 (should have read the reviews!) and it was faulty on arrival, it refuses to enter voltage mode. The seller is sending a replacement, but I thought it would be nice if it could be fixed...

I've disassembled it and can't see anything obviously loose or not properly soldered.

I wondered if anyone had any suggestions?

Thanks

[malagas_on_fire]

I recently bought an Aneng Q1 (should have read the reviews!) and it was faulty on arrival, it refuses to enter voltage mode. The seller is sending a replacement, but I thought it would be nice if it could be fixed...

I've disassembled it and can't see anything obviously loose or not properly soldered.

I wondered if anyone had any suggestions?

Thanks

When you switch the Red lead from voltage to uA or A socket does it automatically goes to current mode? The NCV works?

[floobydust]

Does the relay click on power up?

[badboygolf16v]

Thanks for the replies.

The DMM switches on (the relay clicks) in uA mode. Inserting the probes into current connector sets the mA setting automatically.

Inserting the probes into the V connector does nothing.

Three buttons don't work at all V, mV and 100mOhm. The other buttons Power, Hold, Range, Hz work OK.

[Mechatrommer]

maybe someone forgot to put carbon conductor on bottom pad of the button? try find a way to connect traces on there with some metal, or better yet if feasible, return it to get replacement.

[badboygolf16v]

I've been using a bit of metal to close the contacts but no joy.

I have a replacement on the way, but thought it might be nice to fix it and get a free DMM.

[stj]

give us a couple of hires pcb pics

[Mechatrommer]

inspect for any broken traces, or start more detailed diagnostic and probing to see where is the problem

[badboygolf16v]

Do these pics show anything? It all looks OK to me on visual inspection.

But I'm a complete newbie!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/R2y83iuwXzdf7zgJA

[malagas_on_fire]

Hi

The resistor R38 is not populated and looks like it took some solder on the left pad:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A2muwb8eSS4Ycx1x6

Is this correct on the new video?

[badboygolf16v]

Thanks for reply. R38 and R36 are not populated in the video.

I noticed that R30 is jumpered on my meter but is populated with a MELF resistor in the video....

[HKJ]

I have written a review of this meter: https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengQ1%20UK.html

[nagkiller]

Greetings!

Recently I bought one of these because I found the reviews interesting.

Everything arrived okay, however, there is a mistake in reading capacitors.

Ex: 18uFx250V => The capacitance is 32uF ...
820uF x 2V5 => The capacitance is 1380uF ...

In another multimeter (Minipa ET-2075B) or some Nano values, capacitance is OK!!!

Does anyone else have this problem

[MiroS]

'Does anyone else have this problem'
Not me,  no more Aneng , simply no more

[all_repair]

I bought a few, so far all very good.  Now I don't have run around looking for the Fluke.
A lot of drop shipper selling online in English are not selling the best quality units.  You never know are they reselling rejects by buying at rock bottom price ( I think mostly they are).  I bought my first China-meter from drop shipper online and the meter failed almost immediately.  And that scare me off China branded product for a very long time.  After I took the pain to buy direct, I am hooked.  Sometime they might just replace item if they are shorted, but mostly the quantity and quality have no issue.  If there are some issue, it does not take long for the seller to issue refund with not much proof from my side, some just by taking my words at face-value.

[snoopy]

I bought a Aneng 870 recently. What a great deal with 19999 count. It was better calibrated than my fluke 87 and measured favourable to my Agilent 34401. I would recommend this over the smaller meters with only 9999 counts

cheers

[Fungus]

I bought a few, so far all very good.  Now I don't have run around looking for the Fluke.
A lot of drop shipper selling online in English are not selling the best quality units.  You never know are they reselling rejects by buying at rock bottom price ( I think mostly they are).  I bought my first China-meter from drop shipper online and the meter failed almost immediately. 

I always buy from the ANENG official store on Aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Measurement-Analysis-Instruments/919484_511101598.html

(at least, I believe that's an official ANENG store)

[MiroS]

I bought a Aneng 870 recently. What a great deal with 19999 count. It was better calibrated than my fluke 87 and measured favourable to my Agilent 34401. I would recommend this over the smaller meters with only 9999 counts

cheers

Nice joke mate , but please bear in mind that someone can take this  seriousely.

[Fungus]

I bought a Aneng 870 recently. What a great deal with 19999 count. It was better calibrated than my fluke 87 and measured favourable to my Agilent 34401.

Nice joke mate , but please bear in mind that someone can take this  seriousely.

Why wouldn't it be accurate?

[rsjsouza]

I bought a Aneng 870 recently. What a great deal with 19999 count. It was better calibrated than my fluke 87 and measured favourable to my Agilent 34401.

Nice joke mate , but please bear in mind that someone can take this  seriousely.

Why wouldn't it be accurate?

Exactly; absolute accuracy has nothing to do with other aspects of the meter, including long-term accuracy, which is what I think you were thinking about when posted this. (but I may be wrong)

[MiroS]

I bought a Aneng 870 recently. What a great deal with 19999 count. It was better calibrated than my fluke 87 and measured favourable to my Agilent 34401.

Nice joke mate , but please bear in mind that someone can take this  seriousely.

Why wouldn't it be accurate?

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

[ebastler]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

[Fungus]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question.

Dave seemed to think they were accurate enough:

[001]

what about new model?

[floobydust]

A problem with everyone doing cheap chinese multimeter reviews is that nobody really tests the functions, as you do with software white-box testing.
Going through the ranges from bottom to top, I found cheezy my AN8008 in fine shape can't read 2mA AC, it's got a flat spot reading zero then jumps up. The 4-count window at zero also can get in your way. The capacitance calibration value is blindly copied from Uni-T, and needs to be different for the particular TVS used in the DMM.

Point is we trust these DMM's to work and the firmware is never great on the first rollout.

[HKJ]

A problem with everyone doing cheap chinese multimeter reviews is that nobody really tests the functions, as you do with software white-box testing.

Of course the meter is tested, with 0.01% resistors and precision voltmeters.

Going through the ranges from bottom to top, I found cheezy my AN8008 in fine shape can't read 2mA AC, it's got a flat spot reading zero then jumps up.

Try using the mV range, the you problems is down to a few uV, anyway I would not complain about the meter zeroes a few count around zero especially not a few uV.

[Fungus]

Going through the ranges from bottom to top, I found cheezy my AN8008 in fine shape can't read 2mA AC, it's got a flat spot reading zero then jumps up. The 4-count window at zero also can get in your way. The capacitance calibration value is blindly copied from Uni-T, and needs to be different for the particular TVS used in the DMM.

Dave mentioned several times in his video that the AN8008 lacks a proper mA range (and yes, it's a problem!)

[Fungus]

what about new model?

It lacks functions. Spend a couple of $$ more and get an 860B+ instead.

[malagas_on_fire]

You can put one in the pocket ... the aneng 302:

https://ebay.us/D3AieM

[Fungus]

You can put one in the pocket ... the aneng 302:

https://ebay.us/D3AieM

I've seen one of those, they're horrible. Ew! 

Proof that you can go too cheap.

(the case is the perfect size for an AN8008+probes though - nice snug fit!)

[malagas_on_fire]

well here is a tiny one with a lot of functions ...

BSIDE ZT302

https://ebay.us/A3r85e via @eBay

Or the one that does not hide them at all

[floobydust]

A problem with everyone doing cheap chinese multimeter reviews is that nobody really tests the functions, as you do with software white-box testing.

Of course the meter is tested, with 0.01% resistors and precision voltmeters.

Going through the ranges from bottom to top, I found cheezy my AN8008 in fine shape can't read 2mA AC, it's got a flat spot reading zero then jumps up.

Try using the mV range, the you problems is down to a few uV, anyway I would not complain about the meter zeroes a few count around zero especially not a few uV.

Precision spot checks do not cover oddball bugs. They get 9,999 counts out of the Hycon DMM chipset using a cute algorithm for oversampling and decimation, and noise blanking for the uV range. Autoranging screws up on ACV if there is a DC component, and you have to reboot it.
Try measure 1-2mA AC at 50-60Hz, I've never seen it tested in any reviews.

[Fungus]

well here is a tiny one with a lot of functions ...

https://ebay.us/A3r85e via @eBay

Maybe you should check the dimensions again...

(and the ZT301 is better)

[GreyWoolfe]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

It depends on your usage.  Not everyone's usage will be the same.  Just because it is a piece of junk to you, doesn't mean it is to someone else.  I have 2 in my company van, one as a spare in case I leave 1 behind at a site.  The meter has a very specific use checking a low resistance pass/fail on a field replaceable unit.  The meters compare favorably in readings to to my 5.5 digit bench meter.  Better yet, the 2 meters and a set of gold plated Brymen leads were less than the cost of a Fluke 101 and the small size is perfect for my toolbag.  The meters will never see mains voltage.  They may do continuity checks and DCV checks but the pass/fail resistance checks are the main usage.  On top of that I did the mods on both meters and they settle down very quickly when taking a reading.  There simply is no room in my toolbag to carry my Fluke 27/FM and I just gave my Velleman meter to one of my sons-in-law.  My other meters are bench meters.  For me, a good financial investment.  As always, YMMV.   

[ebastler]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

It depends on your usage.  Not everyone's usage will be the same.  Just because it is a piece of junk to you, doesn't mean it is to someone else. [...]

I am very much with you on that. Hope it was clear that my post was meant as a tongue-in-cheek reply to MiroS's comment. (Or actually tongue-outside-of-cheek, looking at the smiley...)

[malagas_on_fire]

well here is a tiny one with a lot of functions ...

https://ebay.us/A3r85e via @eBay

Maybe you should check the dimensions again...

(and the ZT301 is better)

well in fact they are don't look much bigger from the images , but the buttons should add somewere Even then they are not very big multimeters.

Yes  it's different in the way that has the individual positions for currents and also temperature, but it looses the square wave.. and a off position

[GreyWoolfe]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

It depends on your usage.  Not everyone's usage will be the same.  Just because it is a piece of junk to you, doesn't mean it is to someone else. [...]

I am very much with you on that. Hope it was clear that my post was meant as a tongue-in-cheek reply to MiroS's comment. (Or actually tongue-outside-of-cheek, looking at the smiley...)

Is is tongue in cheek or tongue at the right angle.  That's when the meter works the best!

[malagas_on_fire]

One thing is for sure on these meters, is that they don't stand well as the rugged ones or with holster, The Aneng Q1 also falls easly?

[GreyWoolfe]

They don't.  I find myself using the Anengs laying down, unlike my Fluke 27/FM.  It is a very strong stand, no movement at all.  I would hazard a guess that if I were using them every day, the weak stand might bother me.  For the occasional use they get, laying them down is fine.  When I am on a short time frame to complete the call, I can't be arsed to worry about the meter falling over, on its back it goes.

[Johnboy]

Picture submitted for approximate size comparison (ANENG Q1 to ZT301), not to derail thread:

Models are Zotek ZT301 (on left, used only for low current measurements) and  ZT109/AN8008 (on right, used primarily for low voltage measurements).

[MiroS]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

It depends on your usage.  Not everyone's usage will be the same.  Just because it is a piece of junk to you, doesn't mean it is to someone else. [...]

I am very much with you on that. Hope it was clear that my post was meant as a tongue-in-cheek reply to MiroS's comment. (Or actually tongue-outside-of-cheek, looking at the smiley...)

Eee .... every piece of plastic can be useful for something,  case of Aneng will be a good  soap dish probably or for smoething else maybe. Yes, use case is important, but what useful tool this will be if you have to remember - not in use for high voltage, not measure high current, think twice * 10 in which socet are you leads and what you are going to do, discharge youself before touching leads .... etc. etc.

[001]

Yes, use case is important, but what useful tool this will be if you have to remember - not in use for high voltage, not measure high current, think twice * 10 in which socet are you leads and what you are going to do, discharge youself before touching leads .... etc. etc.

Nobody know his death time. It is a sin

[Johnboy]

I use the two cheap meters above in dedicated tandem, not because I'm afraid I'll forget what they're safe to be used for, but to remind myself not to flip the range switch unnecessarily during measurements and then have to replace tiny fuses after making one of My Careless Mistakes (TM). For those of us who can't justify the expense of an 80,000 count bench meter, they work well enough that I can put off using them as soap dishes for a year or so. I try not to confuse the display precision with genuine accuracy. I don't think these Aneng/Zotek meters are the greatest thing since sliced bread, far from it; but if you've used the free Harbor Freight meters, you can see why this is a marked upgrade. On the other hand, I can generally remember not to use those to try to discover what's going on with my electric clothes dryer either.

[MiroS]

It cannot be very occurate by design and it is not, no question. Not only not occurate and pure design,  it has also bugs and is not safe. It is very expensive piece of plastic.

Yes, the Aneng meter is a total waste of time, and anyone even thinking of it is best avoided...
Err, remind me again why you are frequenting this thread? 

It depends on your usage.  Not everyone's usage will be the same.  Just because it is a piece of junk to you, doesn't mean it is to someone else.  I have 2 in my company van, one as a spare in case I leave 1 behind at a site.  The meter has a very specific use checking a low resistance pass/fail on a field replaceable unit.  The meters compare favorably in readings to to my 5.5 digit bench meter.  Better yet, the 2 meters and a set of gold plated Brymen leads were less than the cost of a Fluke 101 and the small size is perfect for my toolbag.  The meters will never see mains voltage.  They may do continuity checks and DCV checks but the pass/fail resistance checks are the main usage.  On top of that I did the mods on both meters and they settle down very quickly when taking a reading.  There simply is no room in my toolbag to carry my Fluke 27/FM and I just gave my Velleman meter to one of my sons-in-law.  My other meters are bench meters.  For me, a good financial investment.  As always, YMMV.   

I concluded the other day that if I sum all money spent for cheap metters  I relized immediately that  buying them has no any sense. Maybe only for fun, looking how badly they are made or how to hide reality behind marketing blablabla. people tend to take all if it free or close enaugh to free, no matter if they resly need this or it make any sense.

[Fungus]

I concluded the other day that if I sum all money spent for cheap metters  I relized immediately that  buying them has no any sense.

People who buy expensive meters say the same thing.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/

[MiroS]

I concluded the other day that if I sum all money spent for cheap metters  I relized immediately that  buying them has no any sense.

People who buy expensive meters say the same thing.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/

People from this thread do not buy ANENG , they    buy   HP , Tektronix, Fluke ...  all usually for bargin price .  20- 30 USD for something like ANENG , it is way  much for it for me, e.g. Fluke 87V cost was 46EUR and 1 day repair, so  really ... 

[GreyWoolfe]

People from this thread do not buy ANENG , they    buy   HP , Tektronix, Fluke ...  all usually for bargin price .  20- 30 USD for something like ANENG , it is way  much for it for me, e.g. Fluke 87V cost was 46EUR and 1 day repair, so  really ... 

Sure we do, at least I do.  I have nicer meters, GW-Instek GDM-8251A, 2 HP 3466A and I am working on an HP 3478A, on the bench, a Fluke 27/FM for around the house and a Velleman I am giving to one of sons-in-law.  None of the above work for work.  The Anengs meet my very modest work requirements as stated in previous posts.  If I have to troubleshoot real voltage issues including mains voltages into power supplies, the equipment will get swapped out and I have 1 of the 3466As for the work side of things on that half of the bench.

I am not a snobby fanboy by any means.  I have 3 HP meters because the price was right.  Same thing for the Fluke and GW-Instek.  I buy what I can squeeze the money out for.  I have under $500 USD tied up in all 8 of my meters together, including buying a handful of Brymen test leads from Frankie.  I would love to have a pair of HP 3458As but that is unrealistic.  For the cost of just one, I bought my retired company van as a second vehicle.  Mrs GreyWoolfe is quite happy about having it.  She would not be so happy with me spending that much on a piece of "blinky sh!t" (her words) on my workbench.    is what she would do to me if I tried to do that.

Regardless of what you spend, $20 or $4500 for a meter, if you understand your meter's capabilities and limitations, does it really matter what the cost is if it does the job you need it to do?  I guarantee if I lose one of my Anengs, I will certainly replace it with another.  The only time it will spend in the house is to do the mods to it or replace batteries, otherwise it will live in the company van with its partner.

[Fungus]

People from this thread do not buy ANENG

Rubbish. I've got three .

AB860B+  AN8008  AN101)

[rsjsouza]

TBH, I suspect that by "this", MiroS meant "that" - in other words: instead of "the thread I am currently writing on" to "the thread just above my sentence" 

I concluded the other day that if I sum all money spent for cheap metters  I relized immediately that  buying them has no any sense.

People who buy expensive meters say the same thing.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/

People from this that thread do not buy ANENG , they    buy   HP , Tektronix, Fluke ...  all usually for bargin price .  20- 30 USD for something like ANENG , it is way  much for it for me, e.g. Fluke 87V cost was 46EUR and 1 day repair, so  really ... 

[MacMeter]

Be great if I spoke the language, but even then can’t hear the audio, recorded incredibly LOW. Haven’t we seen this model here before?

[malagas_on_fire]

Well it is in my native language but english would be more easier to all viewers. The multimeter felt at 17:53

[J_C]

There is a Richmeters 409B variant of this on ebay right now for $8 Buy It Now.

Price almost seems too low, but There It Is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/With-Analog-Bar-Graph-NCV-AC-DC-RM409B-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-9999-Counts/283331646211

[floobydust]

Looks like a real bargain. These DMM's are OTP so blowout pricing is used to clear out bad firmware builds, or other "issues".

[Fungus]

Looks like a real bargain.

Except it's a rubbish meter. I wouldn't buy one at any price.

[floobydust]

I don't use these chinese builds as my main DMM, for something reliable to depend upon. That is for the made in USA DMM's...
But for $8, use it as a digital panel meter. Unless J_C is shill

[malagas_on_fire]

Similar deal but a sticker covers the Amps sockets. Ammeter ANENG Q1 True-RMS Digital Multimeter 9999:

https://ebay.us/uJHCMz

Can't see all text of the seal but looks like only a warning sticker

[Fungus]

Similar deal but a sticker covers the Amps sockets. Ammeter ANENG Q1

https://ebay.us/uJHCMz

Wouldn't that make it everything except an "ammeter"? 

[malagas_on_fire]

Similar deal but a sticker covers the Amps sockets. Ammeter ANENG Q1

https://ebay.us/uJHCMz

Wouldn't that make it everything except an "ammeter"? 

A good one Yeah that way they may also skip the fuses as well. Does it works well for panel meter?

[Fungus]

Wouldn't that make it everything except an "ammeter"? 

A good one Yeah that way they may also skip the fuses as well. Does it works well for panel meter?

For a panel meter I'd use one with a better display. Even if we stick with ANENG they make dozens of little manual ranging meters that would be suitable (and cheaper than the Q1).

eg. This one is "large screen":

PS: Does the Q1 power-on and show a reading automatically after power is applied to a device? One of those will...

[casinada]

The same seller has the Aneng 8009 for $6
https://www.ebay.com/sch/youjin950/m.html?item=283337236145&hash=item41f8371eb1%3Ag%3AA-0AAOSwmvpcOqdA%3Ark%3A5%3Apf%3A0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

I'm sure he's just trying to establish himself as a seller. Those prices are way low. Shipping costs more 

[ebastler]

Similar deal but a sticker covers the Amps sockets. Ammeter ANENG Q1
https://ebay.us/uJHCMz

I guess you can remove the sticker; it's only a warning.
It says: "STOP TESTING VOLTAGE IN CURRENT MODE!"

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ANENG-Q1-TrueRMS-Digital-Multimeter-Button-9999-Counts-With-Analog-Bar-Graph-Ammeter-Voltmeter-Ohm-Voltage/32908396270.html

Good advice, actually. 

[calin]

Now can somebody tell me why the h$@^#@ ?!!! I i just bought other two of these    I already have two !!!
Thanks a lot "casinada"  !!! It is ALL your fault  


I am curious tough if we get anything delivered @ that price.

[malagas_on_fire]

Similar deal but a sticker covers the Amps sockets. Ammeter ANENG Q1
https://ebay.us/uJHCMz

I guess you can remove the sticker; it's only a warning.
It says: "STOP TESTING VOLTAGE IN CURRENT MODE!"

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ANENG-Q1-TrueRMS-Digital-Multimeter-Button-9999-Counts-With-Analog-Bar-Graph-Ammeter-Voltmeter-Ohm-Voltage/32908396270.html

Good advice, actually. 

Thanks

Were customers using too much voltage in current mode for such labeling? 
The price is somehow very low ... hope somebody receives one to confirm shipping

[sleemanj]

Were customers using too much voltage in current mode for such labeling? 

With the sticker, and this as the first line of the eBay description "Please Note you have to reading the operate manual first before use,otherwise you will burn the device with wrong operat." I imagine they are getting a lot of people putting the probes into the current socket and then putting the other end into the wall socket.

I havn't used one, but I see that the DCA/ACA modes are on the power button... don't tell me that if you hit the power button it goes into DCA mode... that would be quite an easy way to fail.

[Fungus]

Were customers using too much voltage in current mode for such labeling? 

With the sticker, and this as the first line of the eBay description "Please Note you have to reading the operate manual first before use,otherwise you will burn the device with wrong operat." I imagine they are getting a lot of people putting the probes into the current socket and then putting the other end into the wall socket.

I'm guessing you're right.

On the AliExpress page:

* Do NOT input voltage at the Current Mode, the Resistance Mode, the Diode Mode, the Continuity Mode, or the Temperature Mode.
* ...
* Do NOT input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current.


They've probably had a lot of customers claiming "It doesn't work!" 

Still, it's evidence that the meter is "safe". A complaining customer is a not-dead customer. 

[sotos]

Let’s see how much current the socket can provide.

I have seen it a lot of times usually it happens from inexperienced DIY guys.

[sleemanj]

Yeah but you don't see these warnings or stickers on other meters, there must be something about this one which makes it more likely, or more of a problem.

[malagas_on_fire]

Well the uni-t 50b has some warning symbols printed near to the sockets and this meter is quite old, from 2010 , but yet stickers rather new. :

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1204400-uni-t-ut50b-2-5-lcd-handheld-digital-multimeter

Good spoting on the description.

[Edit] Forgot to mention the date of the meter and sorry the english...

[Fungus]

Let’s see how much current the socket can provide. I have seen it a lot of times usually it happens from inexperienced DIY guys.

Make sure the wires are OK? 

Yeah but you don't see these warnings or stickers on other meters, there must be something about this one which makes it more likely, or more of a problem.

There's nothing intrinsically different about it, the sockets are labelled just like all the others.

Maybe it's just the start. Maybe all meters will have those stickers soon now that the price is low enough for tempt more people to buy direct from China.

[Fungus]

There's nothing intrinsically different about it, the sockets are labelled just like all the others.

Delete that, I just watched Dave's video again and it auto-detects the ranges when you move the leads around. If you plug it into the mA range it selects mA for you and allows current through. The other meters need you to select mA with the dial before current flows.

I'm not sure what demons are unleashed by that feature but I'm guessing quite a few people have done that then tried to return it after it went bang.

PS: I'd forgotten that the display is unreadable at 2.4V battery voltage. That's game over, right there.

[Fungus]

The same seller has the Aneng 8009 for $6
https://www.ebay.com/sch/youjin950/m.html?item=283337236145&hash=item41f8371eb1%3Ag%3AA-0AAOSwmvpcOqdA%3Ark%3A5%3Apf%3A0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

I'm sure he's just trying to establish himself as a seller. Those prices are way low. Shipping costs more 

I'm tempted to order one just for the leads, case and submersible temperature probe.

[malagas_on_fire]

In the description is there a mistake?

 "Do NOT input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current. "  or doesn't handle 250V volt on the Amps scale for example measuring current in DUT on a mains circuit.... That would give some burned multimeters....  if exceding this voltages   It is also written in the manual...

For acessories thats a good bargain indeed

[Fungus]

In the description is there a mistake?

 "Do NOT input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current. "

Presumably that's what it takes to blow the fuse (current given by Ohm's law).

For acessories thats a good bargain indeed

I just noticed it's the model with NCV as well. Overcome by GAS, I ordered one. 

[malagas_on_fire]

In the description is there a mistake?

 "Do NOT input voltage exceeds 36V DC or 25V AC when you are at the setting of measuring current. "  or doesn't handle 250V volt on the Amps scale for example measuring current in DUT on a mains circuit.... That would give some burned multimeters....  if exceding this voltages   It is also written in the manual...

For acessories thats a good bargain indeed

Sorry it is not written in the manual that warning but another:

"When the voltage to be measured exceeds 36V
DC or 25V AC, the operator shall be careful
enough to avoid electric shock."

Doesn't refer about maximum allowed / rated voltage on current measurement. So are added notes

[floobydust]

ANENG products approved to 3V under 61010. After all, it does just run on a pair of AA batteries...
It is a way to fudge safety certification (claims), so they need the <36VDC spec.

[martin1454]

Will be interesting to see if I will recive the 6$ multimeter there were on ebay - Just checked the order:

We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller. If you run into any trouble along the way eBay is here to help. Please visit the Resolution Centre to help resolve any problems you may encounter.

This user is no longer registered on eBay.

This item has been dispatched.

I have a tracking number,  but it only says: Jan 19, 2019
22:34pm PST
Tracking number provided

[malagas_on_fire]

I had one richmeters RM101 that was on that situation of listed item being removal and it came to PO box luckly.

[Fungus]

Will be interesting to see if I will recive the 6$ multimeter there were on ebay - Just checked the order:

We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller. If you run into any trouble along the way eBay is here to help. Please visit the Resolution Centre to help resolve any problems you may encounter.

This user is no longer registered on eBay.

This item has been dispatched.

I have a tracking number,  but it only says: Jan 19, 2019
22:34pm PST
Tracking number provided

I get the same thing!

[stj]

i hate ebay - 99% of my shopping now is from aliexpress.

[rsjsouza]

Will be interesting to see if I will recive the 6$ multimeter there were on ebay - Just checked the order:

We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller. If you run into any trouble along the way eBay is here to help. Please visit the Resolution Centre to help resolve any problems you may encounter.

This user is no longer registered on eBay.

This item has been dispatched.

I have a tracking number,  but it only says: Jan 19, 2019
22:34pm PST
Tracking number provided

I get the same thing!

I have been in this situation before; eBay will not allow opening a case before the end of the estimated delivery time - which in my case is March 20th. Just have to keep an eye on the mailbox and/or the date (time to put an alarm on my scheduler).

If that was a scam, what annoys me is that I received the promotion via eBay e-mail. I even got an AN8009 together with the RM409B.

I saved the screenshot of both listings if you are interested (and if you end up receiving something that does not match the description).

[martin1454]

@rsjsouza Well, then we just play the waiting game - thanks for the screen shots, I also bought both the 8009 and "Q1"

[Fungus]

@rsjsouza Well, then we just play the waiting game - thanks for the screen shots, I also bought both the 8009 and "Q1"

Yep. It's only $6, not $600. Let's wait and see.

Those prices were very suspicious though. 

[rsjsouza]

After seeing the China Post Track changed from "tracking number generated" to "Invalid tracking number", I was able to open two cases - one per meter. Let's see how this goes...

(edit) I was just refunded for both meters.

[malagas_on_fire]

Another deal on the meal....

Check out Multimeter AC DC Voltage Current ANENG Q1 9999 Counts True RMS Digital  #Unbranded

From different dealer... it's so cheap.... but again could end like open cases...

[rsjsouza]

Smells like a scam, as they are setting a UT-139S for US$13.99...

[Fungus]

Smells like a scam, as they are setting a UT-139S for US$13.99...

I want to know what "venting the ball" means.

Still: Only 55 feedback, all private listings. One of them says "Very Nice Hat!", another says "Sweet kicks".

I'm skeptical.

[bffargo]

Signed up just to post this warning -- You've all victims of what's called an "eBay account hijack" (search for that on Google for more info).  What happens is this:

1) Emails/passwords stolen from security breaches on other sites
2) Hackers use them to try to find eBay and PayPal accounts using them
3) Finds seller with low # but all positive feedback not currently selling anything and gets access to same PayPal account
4) List tons of auctions for 50% less than anyone else
5) Send a PayPal payment from the hacked account to their own stealing all the money
6) Real seller or eBay or PayPal catches on and disables the account(s) and closes auctions.
7) No one gets shipped anything, original seller account now ruined, usually eBay permanently bans them and PayPal stops processing new payments.
8 ) You wait until the last promised delivery date passes when you can file a non-receipt request.

Note: If seller is suspended and all auctions deleted (not just ended), you may be able to force through a refund request before that end date; the eBay system allows that. If the auction page can still be brought up then you have to wait.

Moral: Never ever buy items priced at 50% off others from a seller that has never sold anything similar before and has a lot of similar things now for auction for super low prices.  This happens all the time unfortunately.

[floobydust]

eBay:
"We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller.

This user is no longer registered on eBay."

Ah it was too good to be true.

[Fungus]

eBay:
"We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller.

This user is no longer registered on eBay."

So, ummmm, how do we contact the seller?

[rsjsouza]

Signed up just to post this warning -- You've all victims of what's called an "eBay account hijack" (search for that on Google for more info). 

Thanks.for the details but, unless something is actually done with our shipping information, we are not necessarily victims but bystanders (or, should I dare to say, opportunists?) to a now known very bad scenario.

Moral: Never ever buy items priced at 50% off others from a seller that has never sold anything similar before and has a lot of similar things now for auction for super low prices.  This happens all the time unfortunately.

That is what is hard in these cases; about a year ago I bought a legit UT61E for about 50% of the price from a seller of general goods in Hong Kong.  Obviously the odds are unfavorable, but not null. That and, at least in my case, this seller was sent to me via eBay's direct marketing e-mail, that is why I ended up buying it.

[rsjsouza]

eBay:
"We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller.

This user is no longer registered on eBay."

So, ummmm, how do we contact the seller?

Fungus, I simply reported a problem and selected the option that I didn't receive my item. eBay opened a form to try and contact the seller and I simply typed a message explaining the situation as if I was talking to him/her. eBay followed through their process of opening a case and then, about half hour later, I was informed the transaction was cancelled.

[floobydust]

eBay:
"We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller.

This user is no longer registered on eBay."

So, ummmm, how do we contact the seller?

eBay's software is crap, it couldn't handle a deleted listing or seller that has vanished. Phoned them and got a credit "due to an invalid tracking number."

The prices have been going up on these DMM's and this model is simply not worth a jump to $36 USD.

[HKJ]

The prices have been going up on these DMM's and this model is simply not worth a jump to $36 USD.

You can still get cheap meters with lots of functions, the last meter I reviewed (Mustool MT108T) is less than $11 from Banggood. The construction is rather cost optimized, they do not use the DT0660 more, but a chip with build in calibration memory.

[rsjsouza]

eBay:
"We had to remove this listing from the site and you're not required to complete the transaction. If you've already sent payment, the sale should process as normal and you don't have anything to worry about. If you have any questions about delivery, please check tracking or contact your seller.

This user is no longer registered on eBay."

So, ummmm, how do we contact the seller?

eBay's software is crap, it couldn't handle a deleted listing or seller that has vanished. Phoned them and got a credit "due to an invalid tracking number."

The prices have been going up on these DMM's and this model is simply not worth a jump to $36 USD.

That was the explanation they provided to me as well.

I agree these meters (especially the Q1) is not worth this price. But this is the EEVBlog effect - and nowadays other vbloggers that are pampered by the Bangood marketing machine. In Brasil we have a saying that reflects that: "talk ill or talk praise, but at least keep talking about me!".

[Fungus]

The prices have been going up on these DMM's and this model is simply not worth a jump to $36 USD.

I agree these meters (especially the Q1) is not worth this price. But this is the EEVBlog effect

Ummm... Dave said the Q1 is bad, for various reasons.

(and I agree)

[rsjsouza]

The prices have been going up on these DMM's and this model is simply not worth a jump to $36 USD.

I agree these meters (especially the Q1) is not worth this price. But this is the EEVBlog effect

Ummm... Dave said the Q1 is bad, for various reasons.

(and I agree)

Exactly. IMO because of this, there are lots of aficionados that will try to get one and explore. Well, its novelty features also help.

[adynis]

Help:
After using it for some AC current measurements, now my Aneng Q1 doesn't switch anymore to the Voltage mode
- When I start it I hear/feel the relay !
- If I plug the cable to uA it makes a beep
- If I plug the cable to Voltage/ohm/.... it does nothing, it remains in DC mA mode ...

Any suggestion?
Thanks

[Fungus]

Open it up and check the fuse?

[adynis]

I checked already, both fuses are fine... 

[indman]

adynis Check serviceability of Q4-Q5 (A6sHB) mosfets. They are marked with a red arrow in the photo. You can replace them with example AO3402. Good luck repairing!

[adynis]

@indman - you are the best !!! 
I had in my house 2 x IRLML6344TRPBF , and I tried with those ones and immediately it worked !! :hurrayy:

Very useful & helpful answer ! Thanks a lot !!!

[Fungus]

@indman - you are the best !!! 
I had in my house 2 x IRLML6344TRPBF , and I tried with those ones and immediately it worked !! :hurrayy:

OTOH if you've blown the clamping transistors it might be a good idea to find out what caused it.

[adynis]

I am also curious what triggered the issue ....
I measured some 230V AC current. And I remember I also pressed the Range button, and it jumped to Manual mode ... , and then ...  I don't remember, but .. while having the cables connected to the AC device, I might have turned the multimetre off and again on, to change it back from Manual to Auto ( although I'm not 100% sure if I really did this ....). My AC measurements went fine ... only the next day I observed that the DC was not working anymore ...

[excitedbox]

I have had this meter for a while now and have nothing but good things to say about it. Banggood´s shipping not so much. Seems someone played football with the meter before shipping and packed a dirty dusty and cracked meter in my box and shipped it. Not even brushing the dirt off the storage bag. Since the plastic over the LCD had a crack I got the money refunded and got to keep the meter for free. I had originally paid 28 Euros shipped for it but now that it is free it is even better.

They updated the LCD to a brighter model at some point and it seems I got the newer model so I have no comparison. I have seen that the printing around the Amp plugs is different on some meters which seems to determine which version you have. According to some posts online the format (decimal placement or something) for the amp readings was weird on the first model but I have not noticed anything which also leads me to believe I have the newer version.

I really like the meter. In my opinion the screen is bright and easy to read even when the sun shines through my windows. The batteries it came with have lasted over 3 months of using it 10-25 minutes a day. I also used the batteries in a camera flash a few times which uses a ton of power so it does seem to have a decent battery life. I haven´t noticed any calibration issues and the only thing that bugs me is that it automatically turns on in auto shut off mode which is quite short. Yes it is easy to turn on without the auto off but I always forget to do that until it starts to beep.

People online have done mods to change the backlight / text color of the lcd, add a lipo rechargeable battery, and add a LED flashlight (a mod I will be doing soon). So it is easy to mod new features into it which is cool and I want to try adding a esp32 or some kind of wifi mod.

[Solhi]

adynis Check serviceability of Q4-Q5 (A6sHB) mosfets. They are marked with a red arrow in the photo. You can replace them with example AO3402. Good luck repairing!

I have the same issue. When i so connect my COM probe to the gate of Q4 it switches to volt as long as i keep the probe there. Would this not indicate that there is constant current to the gate, which fails to break by the relaid/solsnoid?
If that is logical then the fault is in the solenoid.

[foresterr]

Another succesful repair based on @indman advice - thank you very much!

I my case, I'm 100% sure the transistor was blown while I was doing some AC current measurements (from a 12V wall wart transformer), so there is a common thread here, and a million billion % sure I did not just short the source with the mutlimeter... which probably means I did. The fuse was blown in either case. Thanks to this advice, I was able to easily verify Q4 was blown (shorts across all terminals), and replacing it fixed the problem.

By the way, I can confirm that uA/mA ranges on the newer version are different. On the mA/uA socket you now get 99.99 mA (I guess that's a proper mA range) and 9999 uA. Older version had (I think?) 999.9 uA and 99.99 uA instead, so it's a weird tradeoff (less accuracy for a proper mA range). Haven't seen much info on how good the <1uA accuracy actually was, so maybe not much tradeoff actually.

[wandows]

Hello everyone!

My Aneng Q1 was unused for some time, after that, it just selects the functions and incorrect reading in the DC and AC scale.
For example:
     12V DC my Aneng reads 15V DC.
     110V AC my Aneng reads 128V AC
     It does not read Capacitor, Diode, Continuity, Resistance, Frequency and Duty Cycle.

Could anyone give me a hint where to start??

Thanks!!!

[all_repair]

My Aneng Q1 was unused for some time, after that, it just selects the functions and incorrect reading in the DC and AC scale.

Test with a new battery

[wandows]

I tested with a new battery but the problem remains!

[Fungus]

Take it apart, clean the rotary switch contacts and PCB.

Are you sure nothing bad happened the last time you used it? What did you measure with it?

[wandows]

The batteries leaked a little and I took the opportunity to disassemble it and clean it as you mentioned.

Before that, no wrong measurements were taken (this Aneng is not always used).

[Fungus]

The batteries leaked a little

In other words: Something bad did happen. Why didn't you mention that?

The PCB could be contaminated, the rot could even have got inside a component which would be difficult to fix. You could try scrubbing with IPA and a brush but at this price you're probably better off getting a new one.

And don't use any more alkalines in stuff that goes long unused for long periods.

[wandows]

The batteries leaked a little

In other words: Something bad did happen. Why didn't you mention that?
It was a big oversight not to mention it, I'm sorry!


The PCB could be contaminated, the rot could even have got inside a component which would be difficult to fix. You could try scrubbing with IPA and a brush but at this price you're probably better off getting a new one.
Now it's complicated the situation

And don't use any more alkalines in stuff that goes long unused for long periods.
It was a big lack of attention, unfortunately!!!

[Fungus]

And don't use any more alkalines in stuff that goes long unused for long periods.

It was a big lack of attention, unfortunately!!!

It's something we've all been through. 

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/durahell-batteries/

[trobbins]

I have had two 8009's for nearly 4 years and I use them both a lot on the bench.  There is a lot of convenience about a small battery operated DMM, especially when multiple realtime measurements are needed on a device and where some measurements are floating at hazardous levels.  Mine remain accurate against 5-6 digit meters so far.  The only growing inconvenience has been the zero level for resistance, where the dial switch resistance can be substantial and require a resetting of the dial to make a good zero level - that is not a show stopper for me as I am frugal with my test instruments and so just confirm the zero level if the application needs to know that zero is zero.  I bought the two units when 8009's were cheap, with a full awareness of likely longevity issues, so have no regrets at all with their present operating condition.  The only change to default operation is the use of different test leads and clips.

It would be interesting to know if anyone has been using the Q1 approaching that amount of time and has noticed degradation or inconvenience related to the relay's operation, or front panel switches, as those are likely the main difference between models and longevity.

[floobydust]

My AN8008 is working fine after I used PPE contact cleaner (DeOxit) on the rotary switch. Before it was awful, high (zero) ohms readings, power cutting in and out. It's the crappy copper wipers oxidizing. I'd used oil, grease, teflon lube etc. but nothing lasted. Now it's around 0.15 ohms leads shorted in ohms-mode and consistent, reliable.
The little 8-bit MCU it's written in assembly language and minimal OTP or mask ROM memory, so I wouldn't expect the feature really needed- NULL or ZERO.

For the Q1, as always gold is expensive but necessary on signal relays. Hongfa HFD2/003-M-L2-D relay, "D" option is Ag+gold plated contacts, latching 3V coil.
So I'd expect gold on both sides and a bit of sealing, should beat a cheap rotary switch?
What I don't like about latching relays in multimeters is any bump knocks them to the other latching position, which can be a mess.

[blueninja]

Can anyone post a firmware dump of this Multimeter? I believe I have messed mine up.

[floobydust]

There is no firmware to "mess up" so are you trying to copy the product? That would greatly upset our multimeter overlords.

[ataradov]

There is an I2C EEPROM IC on the board, but I'm not sure it stores the firmware. It is only 1 KB in size, and mostly likely stores calibration values that would be unique to each meter anyway.

[blueninja]

It’s not firmware, but it has calibration values and device settings. Without them it won’t operate. Can you post a copy so I could fix mine?

[indman]

blueninja Good luck repairing!

[ialbert]

I owned q1. Years ago. It did work ok. But one day most of the value it dives are bad.
It needs calibration.

[all_repair]

I owned q1. Years ago. It did work ok. But one day most of the value it dives are bad.
It needs calibration.

change battery first

[wandows]

Hey guys!
Unfortunately I have a problem with my aneng Q1.

When measuring the current consumption, I mistakenly placed the test leads in place for a maximum of 200mA, but the consumption exceeded 200mA, and as a result the multimeter only turns on and beeps but does not display any information on the display.
Another interesting detail is that when I put the multimeter on the DIODE scale, it beeps continuously.
I also verified that R18 broke and Q5 was open, but even after replacement the problem persists.

Do any of my friends have any suggestions to help me solve this problem?

Thank you very much in advance!

[Fungus]

What did you connect it to? There should be a fuse inside these to protect against this.

It sounds like it's very broken, maybe the chip is blown and it can't be repaired.

At this price I'd just replace it.

[Atlan]

On AliExpress, I discovered stabilizers 3V0

€1.73 | 2x 3.3-6V to 3V DC-DC Step-Down Power Supply Buck LDO Module Voltage regulator Board for 18650 li-ion AAA Dry cell batteries
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJHonrb

 (max 300mA) with a low voltage drop and a consumption of 0.008mA. When a given multimeter sees a little more current. I installed the battery (glued with double-sided tape) and charging circuit. The connector is glued with instant glue. More on the pictures. The question is whether the glue from the charging circuit holder won't melt

P.S:The battery had to be turned the other way around so that the wires went directly to the charging module.

[Atlan]

next

[Atlan]

next

[Atlan]

Set autopower OFF to 15 min