I have 8 16534A cards and about half of them are currently working. The majority suffer from the same green corrosion caused by the runner adhesive that kills so many of digital analyzer cards in this series, although in the scope cards it doesn't seem as severe.
If you decide to get any of these cards, I'd strongly recommend getting them as "Used" and not "As-is/Parts". I received 6 cards in a row from various sellers that were listed as "Used" that either didn't pass self-test or didn't pass self-calibration. (Do both before accepting a card!) Some sellers didn't want the cards back after a refund, and I was able to fix several of them, but it was difficult because there are no schematics and very little documentation for the diagnostic output. I'm not sure it was worth the time.
I've encountered a number of dead ADCs and flaky attenuators. Fortunately, both are easily replaceable and they're not difficult to obtain since they're also used in other Agilent scopes. The attenuator contacts can be cleaned instead of replacing the whole assembly if you prefer, but it's time consuming since it requires unsoldering the relay coils from the ceramic substrate.
As others have noted, the 16533A/16534A is not a very good substitute for a standalone digital scope. Besides the small 32k capture buffer, they have a very slow screen update rate of about 1 per second, and it gets slower as you add more cards to the group (max of 4 cards/8 channels). But this may not matter since you would most often use them in single shot mode. Just don't expect them to replace your DSO.
The cards can be very handy in analyzing analog to digital interfacing and to verify digital signal integrity, all correlated to the logic analysis. You can of course also trigger your stand-alone scopes from the analyzer if you need more analog capture length, and visa-versa if the scope has a needed triggering mode (like serial). Some Agilent Infiniium scopes can be more tightly coupled (time correlated) to the analyzer's GUI, but I haven't done it.
On the price, put in an ebay search and be patient. Often you can find the cards cheaper bundled with a chassis. You can either buy the whole thing and sell off what you don't need, or I've found more than once that some sellers are willing to extract a card and sell it separately. You just have to ask and offer a fair price. The worst they can say is "no".
And if you come to depend on the 16533A/16534A, you should probably get more then one since they can die without warning.
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