Author Topic: Philips PM 5138 A service manual needed (Read 17336 times)

Unelma · « **on:** December 31, 2014, 10:11:54 am »

Hello

Does anyone have schematics for Philips PM 5138 A function generator.
My problem is that front output module is badly damaged. With out the card it works fine. Not 100% sure but it seems like it.
The output board number is 4012 110 13953 FLUKE HH. If some one knows place to buy replacement board any tip wold be welcome.
My mail is dream(dot)mods(at)gmail.com.

tautech · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2014, 11:01:52 am »

These guys have it and the 20 MHz manual:
http://www.jetecnet.com/

dom0 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2014, 01:57:35 pm »

Ewww, I guess someone applied 230 VAC to the output... and didn't stop when it started to smell burnt...

free_electron · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2014, 04:31:52 pm »

what dodo did that ?

People who misuse test equipment in such way should be prohibited handling anything electrical or even metal for life. Go back to wooden spoons and bowls.

rstoer · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2014, 05:00:57 pm »

Quote from: free_electron on December 31, 2014, 04:31:52 pm

what dodo did that ?

People who misuse test equipment in such way should be prohibited handling anything electrical or even metal for life. Go back to wooden spoons and bowls.

From Aesop's Fables:
A Boy was bathing in a river and got out of his depth, and was in great danger of being drowned. A man who was passing along a road heard his cries for help, and went to the riverside and began to scold him for being so careless as to get into deep water, but made no attempt to help him. "Oh, sir," cried the Boy, "please help me first and scold me afterwards."
Moral: Give assistance, not advice, in a crisis.

To the OP: I used to own one of these and I might have a schematic, but it might be just an owner's manual. I'll look when I get home tonight.

Unelma · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2014, 05:06:46 pm »

Yes

230v ac or 400v ac plugged in the front output.
We are humans mistakes happen...

If some one have schematics it wold be great. Happy new year guys. Thanks for help

Unelma · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2014, 05:20:40 pm »

Quote from: tautech on December 31, 2014, 11:01:52 am

These guys have it and the 20 MHz manual:
http://www.jetecnet.com/

Thanks for tip. I will wait few days before buying it.

tautech · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2014, 06:14:25 pm »

Quote from: Unelma on December 31, 2014, 05:20:40 pm

Quote from: tautech on December 31, 2014, 11:01:52 am
These guys have it and the 20 MHz manual:
http://www.jetecnet.com/

Thanks for tip. I will wait few days before buying it.

It is likey the PSU section of the PM51** series are very similar.
Might be worth a punt to grab whats available and make a start?

HighVoltage · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2014, 06:18:05 pm »

I had the same instrument a few years back and repaired it with the schematics but I am not sure if I stored the paperwork. I will look after the holiday.

Unelma · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2014, 06:24:25 pm »

Yes I will buy it but not today. New year is almost here. I will post it here...

rstoer · « **Reply #10 on:** January 01, 2015, 03:29:59 am »

Quote from: rstoer on December 31, 2014, 05:00:57 pm

...I used to own one of these and I might have a schematic, but it might be just an owner's manual. I'll look when I get home tonight.

Sorry, I checked but only have the User's Manual. Hopefully, one of the others will come through.

Unelma · « **Reply #11 on:** January 01, 2015, 09:13:56 am »

Quote from: rstoer on January 01, 2015, 03:29:59 am

Quote from: rstoer on December 31, 2014, 05:00:57 pm
...I used to own one of these and I might have a schematic, but it might be just an owner's manual. I'll look when I get home tonight.
Sorry, I checked but only have the User's Manual. Hopefully, one of the others will come through.

Thanks for helping. I mailed the first link company for more information. Hopefully they have full schematics.
Tomorrow I will clean it up and see how badly it is burned pcb looks delaminated.

Unelma · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2015, 04:42:12 pm »

Quote from: tautech on December 31, 2014, 11:01:52 am

These guys have it and the 20 MHz manual:
http://www.jetecnet.com/

Thanks i have the manual now and it has some missing pages. "It does have pages 4-3 to 4-28 missing, these are circuit description & troubleshooting section pages".
Schematics are good and parts list. Now it is up to me, remove shorts and check what else is blown...

Unelma · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2015, 11:48:14 am »

It is so badly burned. Only way to fix this is making new board.
All seems to work fine. A8 line is up from amplifier, A9 is up and 5v rail is good. it looks super bad but all seems to work normally.

tautech · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2015, 11:56:46 am »

If its only a 2 layer PCB you should be able to solder some bodge wires for a fix.
It may not perform to spec, but at least you will have it going hopefully.

I'm sure many here would attempt it.

Unelma · « **Reply #15 on:** January 02, 2015, 01:46:33 pm »

Does anyone have trick to isolate burned PCB? All of you know it is big resistor when it is burned 100k - 1xxM ohms. I have not done any repairs on burned PCB.

Yago · « **Reply #16 on:** January 02, 2015, 02:10:57 pm »

Have a read of this thread:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-682-ness-d16x-alarm-panel-repair/

It covers exactly this topic, with vids as well!

jahonen · « **Reply #17 on:** January 02, 2015, 04:53:25 pm »

In my previous life when I used to fix consumer electronics, the standard procedure in case of carbonized PCB is to carefully remove the carbonized part with a knife. Carbonized part should come off relatively easy. Of course, the connections made by PCB tracks need to be reconstructed afterwards.

Regards,
Janne

Unelma · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2015, 06:43:35 am »

This is what I thought, I have to cut the burned part way. It is going to be 2 big holes. Hmmm let's see what I can make of this...

SeanB · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2015, 07:07:28 am »

Make a PCB and fit it in the hole to replace the tracks. As there is a nice shield over it as well you can just solder it to hold it in place as well.

tautech · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2015, 07:10:43 am »

I'd resist cutting it all away, especially if it's only a LV part of the PCB.
Scrape the carboned areas clean, then reseal the burnt area with PCB lacquer or epoxy.

Unelma · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2015, 10:56:37 am »

It looks like it is burned top to bottom.
I will try my best.

HighVoltage · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2015, 12:27:03 pm »

If you scrape it all away until it is clean and then you have in some spots no more PCB left, then you can fix the hole area as well.
In such cases, I have placed a heavy tape over the hole on one side and place the PCB flat and fill the hole with some 2 component
epoxy. This way you can start clean to lay some wires, you can even drill holes through the epoxy and create some connection to the other side.
It takes a lot of time, but it works.

Unelma · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2015, 09:51:27 am »

It is working finally

HighVoltage · « **Reply #24 on:** March 03, 2015, 10:13:44 am »

Congratulations

Can you show us some close up pictures of the repair on the PCB.
It was probably a lot of work.


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Author Topic: Philips PM 5138 A service manual needed (Read 17336 times)

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