I was about to purchase a much cheaper supply (namely a KORAD KA3005-3S) but this supply took my eye and Dave's review. The supply is currently $450 just about every where I look.
I was about to purchase a much cheaper supply (namely a KORAD KA3005-3S) but this supply took my eye and Dave's review. The supply is currently $450 just about every where I look.
The Korad you quote is $135 for a single output. The Rigol is $450 ($423 at TEquipment with the EEVBlog discount ;) ) for a triple output, so per output, the price is pretty close.
The DP832 gets a lot of good press here because it's of reasonably good quality, has a lot of programmability and is just great !/$ compared to big brand (Agilent...) equivalent.
It's all the supply most of us need.
If all you need a single supply with just voltage and current knobs, the Korad or other similarly specced and priced supplies would be just fine.
The Korad you quote is $135 for a single output. The Rigol is $450 ($423 at TEquipment with the EEVBlog discount ;) ) for a triple output, so per output, the price is pretty close.
The KA3005D-3S is a triple output and usually goes for under $200, though it seems to be out of stock everywhere.
This is where I got mine, (http://sra-solder.com/korad-ka3005d-3s-precision-variable-adjustable-30v-5a-dc-triple-linear-power-supply-digital-regulated-lab-grade/) I think it is very good value for money. The only other triple output in the price range is the Mastech HY3005F-3 and similar.
With all due respect, I believe the KA3005-3S is a triple output supply:
How does one get this EEVBlog discount? TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! ;D
I tinker a lot with circuits and designs as well as the occasional automotive project, so I figure its time to get a proper Power Supply and start my home lab.
I am researching for a power supply that will suit my needs.
How does one get this EEVBlog discount[/b]? TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! ;DPM sent (then saw LaurentR sent you one already :palm:). ;D
I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. :palm:Am I the only one that quite likes the numeric keypad arrangement? It seems a better use of space than a separate square keypad and knob, looks good and is easy to use.
I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. :palm:Am I the only one that quite likes the numeric keypad arrangement? It seems a better use of space than a separate square keypad and knob, looks good and is easy to use.
Mind you I grew up with those rotary dial telephones so having a dial of numbers isn't odd to me. Thankfully Rigol didn't actually implement a Strowger style switching mechanism to pulse dial the digits in :-DD That would be something. (I wonder if there is any ancient non-comms test equipment that used those pulse dials? there must be something out there...)
I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. :palm:
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How does one get this EEVBlog discount? TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! ;D
You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still... :-+
....
How does one get this EEVBlog discount? TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! ;D
I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment? I bought a Rigol MSO2072A from them but didn't know about the discount at that time. :(
I'm looking at possibly getting the Rigol DP832 also so would not want to miss out on the discount this time.
I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?PM sent.
You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still... :-+
This is a bit late for you, but you don't need to enter the option codes on the device if you have a USB flash drive. See section 2-66 of the DP800 manual (under Options in the contents), or this screenshot of it:
You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still... :-+Enter the LAN one locally, then enter the remainder remotely! It's a mental health thing. :)
Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. :clap:
Crazy UPS shipping routes shipped it from PA, to Columbus OH, then right past my home in the Dayton area to Indianapolis IN....... :wtf: So now I wait for it to travel back east to me, hopefully by tomorrow as scheduled.
Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. :clap:
Crazy UPS shipping routes shipped it from PA, to Columbus OH, then right past my home in the Dayton area to Indianapolis IN....... :wtf: So now I wait for it to travel back east to me, hopefully by tomorrow as scheduled.
Oh do I know what you mean. I live in Columbus. my DSA815-TG made to Columbus to be delivered, then for some unknow UPS screwed up logic. it went to Indianapolis then back for delivery the next day. and we wonder why rates go up. 8 hours of unneeded travel time is why.
I got my supply today...
I got my supply today...
Looks like we both received units from the same TEquipment.NET batch. Your unit should have the new TopBoard_V02.20 (as pictured here (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/rigol-dp832-firmware-updates-and-bug-list/msg518139/#msg518139)) and new BottomBoard_V02.20 (my unit has both). I performed a complete teardown (to tidy up the wiring and tweak a few quality control related issues) after thoroughly testing and burning in my unit for several days.
-Kris
I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3. Are they counting the one in the unit?
I also noticed we don't have the latest firmware. (00.01.13) I'm looking to update it tonight as soon as I read up and get the new version from RIGOL. It appears I have the current boot loader (1.09)
Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it? I may post this question as a separate thread. Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty. :scared:
Cheers,
Raymond
I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3. Are they counting the one in the unit?I also only received 2 spare fuses. I did notice that Dave received three spare fuses with his unit (https://youtu.be/IaWgF1SORkk?t=33m46s (https://youtu.be/IaWgF1SORkk?t=33m46s)) so maybe 230v factory configured units receive three vs two for 115v configured units for some reason. Maybe Rigol reduced the number to two at some point in the past.
Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it? I may post this question as a separate thread. Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty. :scared:Admittedly, I'm very OCD, especially when it comes to anything I spend my hard earned money on. I tend to only buy high quality and therefore I have high expectations. While thoroughly testing and evaluating my unit, I noted a few minor quality control related issues which didn't justify a return but did bug me enough to tweak them. The main issue was the green chassis ground binding post. I noticed it was loose (clockwise/counterclockwise movement when tightening/loosening the binding post knob). The other issue was the LCD display, rubber membrane buttons and rotary encoder knob were off center to the far left. No huge issue, just aesthetically displeasing. These issues were evident prior to teardown, I discovered a few others during teardown (see below).
(http://i.imgur.com/1WWwUDBm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/1WWwUDB.jpg) | (http://i.imgur.com/DPcdbwdm.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/DPcdbwd.jpg) | (http://i.imgur.com/Lc6gUR2m.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/Lc6gUR2.jpg) |
:wtf: wow. Thanks for the very precise explanation Kris. :)
Rest assured you are not alone with your OCD. ;D Although I will admit yours is worse than mine. My OCD for example makes me open DVD and Blu-Ray movies with a razor blade so I can remove the shrink wrapping as a sleeve and reuse it to keep dust off the case. Music CD's as well. :palm:
But darn you sir for bringing all this to my attention... ;) I didn't notice any of these issues until I read your post! lol
My unit also has just about every control shifted to the left a bit. I had to look close but it's there. The worst one is the 'wanky' display mode button to bring up those "dials" that Dave hated in his video, followed by the channel select buttons. The rest are maybe a 1/32" or less off, but noticeable now that I know what to look for..... |O
I'm also a neat freak when it comes to wiring, using wire ties, routing wires, shrink wrapping wires, or just about anything that involves keeping thing super tidy. I'm going to not open mine up just yet, but if the issues we have in common keep bugging me, I may have to. I don't seem to have the same issues (externally anyways) that you do. My handle is smooth and all my terminals are tight, if not just a small fraction to the left. :palm:
Sorry for kicking an old thread and my ignorance, but I feel the original question has not been answered quite yet. The only reason I see given for spending well over twice the amount of the Korad on the Rigol is that "it's nicer". You'll have to forgive me for feeling that answer is lacking a bit of substance. The Rigol seems to have better accuracy after being upgraded for yet more money. Are there any other differences that really warrant spending the money for the Rigol?
I don't really consider the Korad a hit and miss affair, considering it's been sold by Dave for quite a while and many people on the forums seem to own or use it. I just hope to understand the differences properly, as to make an informed decision myself.
Korad has no ethernet or digital I/O.The Korad can be read and controlled through a PC. It also seems to be a little more convenient to control without navigating menu's. On the other hand, Dave's remark about the Rigol having a built in multimeter is spot-on. That justifies at least part of the extra cost. Obviously, you can do the same by adding actual multimeters, but that isn't quite as convenient.
You said yourself, better accuracy. The upgrade can be had for free if you desire.
UI is vastly different, watch a video of both in operation and see if the difference is worth it to you. Is it worth being able to see power consumption, and all three channels at the same time? Is it worth being able to type in the voltage/current? That's up to you.
And how about OVP/OCP in Rigol vs Corad? Consiedring that Rigol's protection reacts after 400-800ms it is safe to say, that this PSU has no OCP/OVP feature. I'm wondering, how it is with Corad's protection. Can anyone test Korad at this matter?The Rigol's CC response is much faster than that, and CC is your main circuit protection mechanism with a lab supply. The OVP protects the supply from your circuit, and how fast it needs to be depends on the supply. Set it to 10V and hook up a 12V lead-acid battery on the output and I'm sure the Rigol will survive until the OVP trips. It's a GOOD thing that a supply doesn't trip all that fast, or any inductive spike from your circuit would make it a huge nuisance fast.
Regarding OVP/OCP in Korad - I can report, that the reaction is (almost) immediate; however, I haven't measured it properly (in terms of over/under-shooting nor timing - it is just what I've observed when stress testing the PSU). If it is critical, I might do so - using resistive load.What kind of stress testing did you do? I'm curious to see whether it can take a bit of a beating.
Spike with 0.5s duration? Isn't 10ms long enough? It's not a inrush current of 1000W squirrel - cage motor or something like this.And how about OVP/OCP in Rigol vs Corad? Consiedring that Rigol's protection reacts after 400-800ms it is safe to say, that this PSU has no OCP/OVP feature. I'm wondering, how it is with Corad's protection. Can anyone test Korad at this matter?The Rigol's CC response is much faster than that, and CC is your main circuit protection mechanism with a lab supply. The OVP protects the supply from your circuit, and how fast it needs to be depends on the supply. Set it to 10V and hook up a 12V lead-acid battery on the output and I'm sure the Rigol will survive until the OVP trips. It's a GOOD thing that a supply doesn't trip all that fast, or any inductive spike from your circuit would make it a huge nuisance fast.
I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?There's a search feature in the upper left.
I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?It might very well be they require you to be active and contributing to the forums. In that case, two posts is probably a bit meagre.
Precisely the case. ;) Thus far, it's simultaneously kept the code off of coupon sites and increased participation.I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?It might very well be they require you to be active and contributing to the forums. In that case, two posts is probably a bit meagre.