RIGOL DP832 vs other cheaper supplies.

[broderp]

Hello all, my first evening on the forum.  I am an electronics enthusiast, with a AAS degree in Electronics Engineering.  I know enough to be dangerous  and have about 18 years practical experience since graduating in the late 1990's.

I tinker a lot with circuits and designs as well as the occasional automotive project, so I figure its time to get a proper Power Supply and start my home lab. 

I am researching for a power supply that will suit my needs.  I came across EEVblog on YouTube and by chance saw the video about the RIGOL DP832 that Dave did.  I have since viewed all the video's I can find on this supply.

I was about to purchase a much cheaper supply (namely a KORAD KA3005-3S) but this supply took my eye and Dave's review.  The supply is currently $450 just about every where I look. 

Is the RIGOL DP832 a value, over kill or a waste of money compared to other cheaper supplies?  If you could buy another supply would you buy this one again?

I wonder if Dave still has or uses his today. 

I know this is a loaded question, but I'm just looking for opinions, other supply options or just a general idea if this supply has satisfied the masses who have bought them.  (even with the issues I found out on the forum here)

Thanks!  I look forward to spending some time on the forum and learning and hopefully someday helping others!

[LaurentR]

I was about to purchase a much cheaper supply (namely a KORAD KA3005-3S) but this supply took my eye and Dave's review.  The supply is currently $450 just about every where I look. 

The Korad you quote is $135 for a single output. The Rigol is $450 ($423 at TEquipment with the EEVBlog discount ) for a triple output, so per output, the price is pretty close.

The DP832 gets a lot of good press here because it's of reasonably good quality, has a lot of programmability and is just great !/$ compared to big brand (Agilent...) equivalent.
It's all the supply most of us need.

If all you need a single supply with just voltage and current knobs, the Korad or other similarly specced and priced supplies would be just fine.

[broderp]

I was about to purchase a much cheaper supply (namely a KORAD KA3005-3S) but this supply took my eye and Dave's review.  The supply is currently $450 just about every where I look. 

The Korad you quote is $135 for a single output. The Rigol is $450 ($423 at TEquipment with the EEVBlog discount ) for a triple output, so per output, the price is pretty close.

The DP832 gets a lot of good press here because it's of reasonably good quality, has a lot of programmability and is just great !/$ compared to big brand (Agilent...) equivalent.
It's all the supply most of us need.

If all you need a single supply with just voltage and current knobs, the Korad or other similarly specced and priced supplies would be just fine.

With all due respect, I believe the KA3005-3S is a triple output supply:
http://www.amazon.com/KORAD-KA3005D-3S-Precision-Adjustable-Regulated/dp/B0094MTK8S/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1429150769&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=korad+power+supply

This makes the RIGOL over twice the cost ($190 vs. $423)

I was allured by the fact the KORAD is 10A capable (parallel mode) and programmable.  But info is sketchy and hard to come by.   Dave's own review was less than stellar and he had devastating issue on his first use. (which I'm sure has been fixed based on follow up videos)

I was blown away with the RIGOL display, features (I may use in the future), upgradability apparent build quality when compared to the KORAD.

But I agree with your statement, it's all the supply most of us will need!  I don't think I will outgrow this with my level of tinkering and circuit design/building.

How does one get this EEVBlog discount?  TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! 

[elliott]

The Korad you quote is $135 for a single output. The Rigol is $450 ($423 at TEquipment with the EEVBlog discount ) for a triple output, so per output, the price is pretty close.

The KA3005D-3S is a triple output and usually goes for under $200, though it seems to be out of stock everywhere.

This is where I got mine, I think it is very good value for money. The only other triple output in the price range is the Mastech HY3005F-3 and similar.

[broderp]

The KA3005D-3S is a triple output and usually goes for under $200, though it seems to be out of stock everywhere.
This is where I got mine, I think it is very good value for money. The only other triple output in the price range is the Mastech HY3005F-3 and similar.

SRA Solder is very respectable from what I read.  I've contacted them regarding the supplies they sell.  They sell on Amazon as well as thru their website.  My only concern with them is quality and lack of information.  I would almost rather have a long list of issues with resolutions such as I see with RIGOL than unknown/sketchy quality with a lack of support from either a community forum like here or the manufacturer. 

SRA would stand behind their stuff, but I'm not sure KORAD supports their dealer or the public in general.  RIGOL has apparently responded fairly well to all the issues, and there are a lot of engineering-like people (read~much smarter than me ) who keep up with all these issues.  I'll be honest and say I probably wouldn't even notice 3/4 of the stuff they find as it wouldn't come up in my everyday use of such a supply.   

[LaurentR]

With all due respect, I believe the KA3005-3S is a triple output supply:

Sorry about that. Lousy Amazon searching.

How does one get this EEVBlog discount?  TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! 

PM sent. TEquipment is a great source for Rigol and most other test equipment brands.

[nowlan]

I tinker a lot with circuits and designs as well as the occasional automotive project, so I figure its time to get a proper Power Supply and start my home lab. 

I am researching for a power supply that will suit my needs. 

What are your needs exactly?
You should consider the used market. There are a lot of affordable used Agilent supplies on Ebay.
E3630A 35 W Triple Output, 6V, 2.5A & ±20V, 0.5A

[nanofrog]

How does one get this EEVBlog discount[/b]?  TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! 

PM sent (then saw LaurentR sent you one already  ). 

The Korad would work as a general purpose supply, but the Rigol is a bit nicer.  That said however, the used market can offer a lot more value IMHO if you're careful.  Used HP/Agilent/Keysight, Power Designs, Lambda, ... pop up regularly. 

If you post your country and what you're looking for, including any special needs, it could help members post some links.

BTW, if you go into your user profile and select your nation, it's flag will display beneath your userID.  Makes it easier to post relevant information for us, and you'll both avoid posting location all the time, and get faster answers. 

[SimonD]

45+ euros more is  not cheap anymore!   

[broderp]

Thanks for all the support and answers.  I will admit I'm a bit overwhelmed at my choices. 

I tend to stay clear of used equipment as I am somewhat paranoid about warranty or inheriting someone else's problems.  (You should see me trying to buy a car..lol  I'm so uber picky, but my practical side always wins out after 3-4 months of shopping and dozens of spreadsheets)

I'll look into the what you all have stated, I even received a PM from a dealer...so I'll check out their offerings and see how they fit into my plans.

[rdl]

I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. 

[Macbeth]

I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. 

Am I the only one that quite likes the numeric keypad arrangement? It seems a better use of space than a separate square keypad and knob, looks good and is easy to use.

Mind you I grew up with those rotary dial telephones so having a dial of numbers isn't odd to me. Thankfully Rigol didn't actually implement a Strowger style switching mechanism to pulse dial the digits in  That would be something. (I wonder if there is any ancient non-comms test equipment that used those pulse dials? there must be something out there...)

[Stupid Beard]

I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. 

Am I the only one that quite likes the numeric keypad arrangement? It seems a better use of space than a separate square keypad and knob, looks good and is easy to use.

Mind you I grew up with those rotary dial telephones so having a dial of numbers isn't odd to me. Thankfully Rigol didn't actually implement a Strowger style switching mechanism to pulse dial the digits in  That would be something. (I wonder if there is any ancient non-comms test equipment that used those pulse dials? there must be something out there...)

I actually like it too. My only complaint about the dial thing is the sloping inwardness of the buttons.

I miss the old rotary dial phones. I'd like to see one of the instant gratification generation try dialing a number on one. I suspect they'd start moaning half way through 1 digit

Edit: Thanks, YouTube

[broderp]

I probably would have bought a couple of the DP832 if it didn't have that incredibly stupid looking circle of buttons. 

 

I actually rather like the round dial and button arrangement.   I do however think the rotary knob could have stuck out a bit more.  At least it has the studs on the edge to allow a better grip.  If I get this supply I would have to see how it grows on me.  If I cant live with the knob, I'd either extend it or replace it.  Dave didn't like it either, complained about it, but in the end was busting thru it like it was second nature. 

I'd love to hear how his supply is holding up or if he's replaced it with something better. 

[broderp]

Well, just to add closure to this thread, I have decided and ordered the RIGOL DP832 from TEquipment tonight. (About 5 minutes ago)   

There were many reasons why this supply became the one to beat and why TEquipment was the seller of choice:
* The right price (the EEVBlog discount put it over the top  ),
* Great features
* Decent Accuracy
* Upgradable
* Highly recommended by many
* Great support and following here on the forum
* Attractive design
* Smart Layout
* Intuitive to use

I followed up on all your guys comments, and even looked at several other supplies, including the Siglent's SPD3303C ($289) or SPD3303D ($369), KORAD KS3005-3S ($169) and although I like many of them, none came as close to my personal needs and wants.

The only negative I can think of is the total amperage this supply is capable of producing.  6A in parallel falls short of my original requirement of 10A.  But it's quite possible I can get by with out it.  The only time I would consider need more power would be for bench testing and powering up automotive head units.  (Not powering amps or driving a mega watt stereo, just power up a head unit when wiring and testing repairs and modifications.)   

The Siglent units lost out due to not having a readout for channel 3.  I rather liked the display and decent features.  But it appears to be a step behind the RIGOL.  The extra $50 for the RIGOL appears to be deserved.   The bargain KORAD was too much of a hit or miss option.  So, I'm taking the bet that the RIGOL is head and shoulders above that supply in every way.  I will swallow the <$200 difference. 

Now for the hardest part......I have to tell the wife....

[Macbeth]

Excellent choice sir! You will not be dissapointed.

I too thought I couldn't justify the outlay compared to just getting along with a cheapo single channel switch mode and old ATX PSU's, wall-warts, etc. But believe me the DP832 is worth every penny.

My DP832 is in use every day. I love it.

[JBaughb]

You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still...

[electricMN]

....

How does one get this EEVBlog discount?  TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! 

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment? I bought a Rigol MSO2072A from them but didn't know about the discount at that time. 
I'm looking at possibly getting the Rigol DP832 also so would not want to miss out on the discount this time.

[Stupid Beard]

You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still...

This is a bit late for you, but you don't need to enter the option codes on the device if you have a USB flash drive. See section 2-66 of the DP800 manual (under Options in the contents), or this screenshot of it:

[Corporate666]

....

How does one get this EEVBlog discount?  TEquipment was who I was considering buying this from! 

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment? I bought a Rigol MSO2072A from them but didn't know about the discount at that time. 
I'm looking at possibly getting the Rigol DP832 also so would not want to miss out on the discount this time.

If you contact them by email or through the live-chat option on their website, you can just ask for the EEVBlog discount - they can either send you a quote/invoice you then pay, or you can place an order and then just email/chat to get them to adjust the price giving you the discount.

[nanofrog]

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?

PM sent.

[JBaughb]

You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still...

This is a bit late for you, but you don't need to enter the option codes on the device if you have a USB flash drive. See section 2-66 of the DP800 manual (under Options in the contents), or this screenshot of it:

 

[broderp]

Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.   

Crazy UPS shipping routes shipped it from PA, to Columbus OH, then right past my home in the Dayton area to Indianapolis IN.......     So now I wait for it to travel back east to me, hopefully by tomorrow as scheduled.

[bson]

You won't be disappointed. I just put mine on the bench (also from TEquipment). Spent 20 minutes entering in codes for the upgrades. My fingers hurt. Still...

Enter the LAN one locally, then enter the remainder remotely!  It's a mental health thing.

Edit: didn't know about the USB option, that looks even easier!

[smgvbest]

Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.   

Crazy UPS shipping routes shipped it from PA, to Columbus OH, then right past my home in the Dayton area to Indianapolis IN.......     So now I wait for it to travel back east to me, hopefully by tomorrow as scheduled.

Oh do I know what you mean.  I live in Columbus.  my DSA815-TG made to Columbus to be delivered,  then for some unknow UPS screwed up logic.  it went to Indianapolis then back for delivery the next day.  and we wonder why rates go up.   8 hours of unneeded travel time is why.

[broderp]

Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.   

Crazy UPS shipping routes shipped it from PA, to Columbus OH, then right past my home in the Dayton area to Indianapolis IN.......     So now I wait for it to travel back east to me, hopefully by tomorrow as scheduled.

Oh do I know what you mean.  I live in Columbus.  my DSA815-TG made to Columbus to be delivered,  then for some unknow UPS screwed up logic.  it went to Indianapolis then back for delivery the next day.  and we wonder why rates go up.   8 hours of unneeded travel time is why.

    So true!

I got my supply today.  This thing is HEAVY!  It has a quality feel and very nice to the touch.  I'm very impressed.    Powered up, and thanks to Dave's video's I'm working it like a pro! (Well sort of... )

A few details if anyone cares about the current stock from TEquipment:
-Calibration-November 29th, 2014
-Newest version with large silver heat sink 
-Firmware/Digital version: 00.01.11


Only a few issues (non-issues really)

1. They should at least ship this with one or two sets of leads- I knew this, but am coming up short leads to play around with this tonight!
2. They should supply a printed full manual and not just the quick guide-but..I've already printed the manual, in full color on works laser printer and bound it)
3. Better software for USB to PC control-haven't used it yet, but not expecting much

So far so good.  I'm really wanting the precision upgrade and am now fighting the urge to just buy it. 

[kjdotts]

I got my supply today...

Looks like we both received units from the same TEquipment.NET batch. Your unit should have the new TopBoard_V02.20 (as pictured here) and new BottomBoard_V02.20 (my unit has both). I performed a complete teardown (to tidy up the wiring and tweak a few quality control related issues) after thoroughly testing and burning in my unit for several days.

-Kris

[broderp]

I got my supply today...

Looks like we both received units from the same TEquipment.NET batch. Your unit should have the new TopBoard_V02.20 (as pictured here) and new BottomBoard_V02.20 (my unit has both). I performed a complete teardown (to tidy up the wiring and tweak a few quality control related issues) after thoroughly testing and burning in my unit for several days.

-Kris

I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3.  Are they counting the one in the unit?

I also noticed we don't have the latest firmware.  (00.01.13)  I'm looking to update it tonight as soon as I read up and get the new version from RIGOL.  It appears I have the current boot loader (1.09)

Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it?  I may post this question as a separate thread.  Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty. 

Cheers,

Raymond

[kjdotts]

I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3.  Are they counting the one in the unit?

I also noticed we don't have the latest firmware.  (00.01.13)  I'm looking to update it tonight as soon as I read up and get the new version from RIGOL.  It appears I have the current boot loader (1.09)

Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it?  I may post this question as a separate thread.  Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty. 

Cheers,

Raymond

I'm heading out the door right now but later tonight I will thoroughly respond. If Rigol doesn't get you the firmware quickly, let me know and I will gladly email you the file.

-Kris

[kjdotts]

I noticed I only received 2 spare fuses, the documents stated 3.  Are they counting the one in the unit?

I also only received 2 spare fuses. I did notice that Dave received three spare fuses with his unit (https://youtu.be/IaWgF1SORkk?t=33m46s) so maybe 230v factory configured units receive three vs two for 115v configured units for some reason. Maybe Rigol reduced the number to two at some point in the past.

Can you please elaborate on what tweaks you did? And how you are load testing/burning it it?  I may post this question as a separate thread.  Your braver than I, I'm dying to open it up, but don't want to void my warranty.

Admittedly, I'm very OCD, especially when it comes to anything I spend my hard earned money on. I tend to only buy high quality and therefore I have high expectations. While thoroughly testing and evaluating my unit, I noted a few minor quality control related issues which didn't justify a return but did bug me enough to tweak them. The main issue was the green chassis ground binding post. I noticed it was loose (clockwise/counterclockwise movement when tightening/loosening the binding post knob). The other issue was the LCD display, rubber membrane buttons and rotary encoder knob were off center to the far left. No huge issue, just aesthetically displeasing. These issues were evident prior to teardown, I discovered a few others during teardown (see below).

Once I had thoroughly tested, evaluated and burned my unit in (I'll explain what I mean by “burn in” below), I removed (using wax paper) the factory warranty seal and stored it on a folded piece of wax paper. I then attached the wax paper to a printout of the picture I took of the factory installed seal before removal (for future reinstallation reference, see below images). I waited to open my unit up until I was completely happy with my tests/evaluation and intended to keep the unit (no need to open the unit up for minor tweaking if some major “return justified” issue developed first).

Teardown Issues & Resolutions:

Once I had the factory warranty seal safely removed and stored, I proceeded to teardown my unit. Looking back on the experience, I'm glad I did because numerous issues were brought to light and resolved...

• ISSUE: While utilizing the carry handle, I noticed a rough feel/operation when the handle was pulled/released. I also noticed some paint shavings when removing the handle.
  RESOLUTION: During reassembly, I installed the metal core of the handle on the opposite side from how it was installed at the factory. The metal core of the handle appears to be stamped out, resulting in a side with smooth edges and a side with sharp edges. The sharp edged side was installed facing the paint finish at the factory. This resulted in the paint finish rapidly getting worn down to bare metal and rough operation. By simply flipping the metal core over, no more finish damage and silky smooth operation.

• ISSUE: Three stripped out chassis Torx screw heads (one securing top board assembly to the chassis and two securing front panel assembly to the chassis).
  RESOLUTION: Cleaned up Torx screw heads with a file and carefully/properly torqued down during reassembly.

• ISSUE: Sloppily bundled wire bundles which were poorly routed resulting in several wires being situated up against and rubbing a raw/sharp edge of the chassis (potential for issues over time).
  RESOLUTION: Disconnected all interconnects during disassembly. During reassembly, cleanly routed and wire tied all wires/bundles.

• ISSUE: Green chassis ground binding post loose.
  RESOLUTION: Visually verified issue. Lock washer was just slightly contacted by binding post nut. All the other binding post lock washers were nearly completely flattened by their respective nut. I tightened the nut until properly torqued (visually matching the other lock washers). I also took this opportunity to correctly align the binding post through hole which was previously off center. Now, all seven binding post through holes are perfectly centered.

• ISSUE: LCD display, rubber membrane buttons and rotary encoder knob were off center to the far left.
  RESOLUTION: The front panel is engineered in such a way that there is horizontal/vertical play in the LCD/PCB/rubber membrane button assembly when all the screws are loosened. There is just enough play to create a sloppy appearance if you adjust the assembly to the extreme left/right/top/bottom or even rotate it and create a tilted LCD display issue. There are guide holes integrated in to the assembly to aid in proper centering which the Rigol employee ignored during assembly. I simply loosened all the screws and centered everything up properly. Again, it's just an aesthetic issue but I spent my hard earned money on this unit so I want it as near perfect as possible.

I know, I knooow, I knoooooow... OCD to the extreme. I realize this. However, realize that I'm setting up my home electronics lab (in my recently acquired 12' x 24' finished basement) and beginning the process of passing on my knowledge of electronics to my twelve year old son. So, I want everything as near perfect as possible. He's sat in and observed/participated/learned a ton during this process. The purchases I'm making now, I plan to pass on to him in the future. For Christmas, I hooked him up with a beginner electronics kit and a bunch of Arduino gear. He's probably one of the few twelve year old kids on the planet with Fluke 87V and Rigol DP832 experience.

”Burn In” Explanation:

When I say “burn in”, I simply mean extensive operation, testing and evaluation of the unit over the course of several days (starting the day I received the unit from UPS). The Rigol authorized dealer I purchased the unit from has a certain return window, so, the purpose is to expose any issues which might warrant a return as close to initial receipt of the unit as possible. In other words, before I'm stuck with a potentially defective unit, I want to know of any issues and either resolve them or return for exchange/refund.

During the “burn in” period, I...

• Inspected the unit for quality control related issues (and discovered a few).
• Functionally checked every aspect of the unit. During my functional checks, I discovered two bugs (which I reported here at the EEVblog and I plan to report to Rigol).
• Verified calibration throughout the voltage/current ranges numerous times (always well within spec).
• Loaded the unit up to 100% of rated spec for a few minutes and then dropped down to 70-80% of  rated spec and ran for an hour or so.
• Ran the unit continuously for a 24-hour period. During this time (which fell on a weekend), I became intimately familiar with every aspect of my Rigol DP832. I had a blast. Yes, I stayed awake all 24 hours enjoying my purchase!
• Monitored the unit for any thermal issues.

With the questionable history of the Rigol DP832 (engineering failures, thermal issues, PCB revisions, etc...), I wanted to ensure my unit was as near perfect as possible. My unit is equipped with what I believe are the newest revisions of the TopBoard (v02.20) and BottomBoard (v02.20). Therefore, I especially wanted to make sure everything was good to go analog board wise.

Warranty Seal Removal/Storage:

As stated above, I removed (using wax paper) the factory warranty seal and stored it on a folded piece of wax paper. I then attached the wax paper to a printout of the picture I took of the factory installed seal before removal (for future reinstallation reference). This, along with the certificate of calibration, documentation, purchase receipt, serial number documentation, etc... are all filed away for safe keeping.

NOTE: Consider carefully the risk to your factory warranty if you decide to try and replicate what I have posted below. Patience, a steady hand and practiced technique are required to successfully execute this. One wrong move and your warranty will be voided! I've been doing this for many years so I have the process perfected. Even if I hadn't decided to teardown my unit, I would have removed and stored the factory warranty seal just to protect it. These seals are very fragile and you can easily damage them (voiding your warranty) just from normal use/handling, even if you don't actually open your unit up. Just look at Dave's seal, it was damaged prior to him tearing his unit down after only owning it for a short period of time (https://youtu.be/s4rV20ulsm0?t=1m16s).

Moderators: I've reviewed the forum rules and don't believe I'm violating any rule(s) by posting this technique here. I apologize in advance if you take issue with this.


-Kris

[broderp]

  wow.  Thanks for the very precise explanation Kris.   

Rest assured you are not alone with your OCD.  Although I will admit yours is worse than mine.  My OCD for example makes me open DVD and Blu-Ray movies with a razor blade so I can remove the shrink wrapping as a sleeve and reuse it to keep dust off the case.  Music CD's as well.   

But darn you sir for bringing all this to my attention...   I didn't notice any of these issues until I read your post! lol

My unit also has just about every control shifted to the left a bit.  I had to look close but it's there.  The worst one is the 'wanky' display mode button to bring up those "dials" that Dave hated in his video, followed by the channel select buttons.  The rest are maybe a 1/32" or less off, but noticeable now that I know what to look for.....

I'm also a neat freak when it comes to wiring, using wire ties, routing wires, shrink wrapping wires, or just about anything that involves keeping thing super tidy.  I'm going to not open mine up just yet, but if the issues we have in common keep bugging me, I may have to.  I don't seem to have the same issues (externally anyways) that you do.  My handle is smooth and all my terminals are tight, if not just a small fraction to the left. 

What did you do to load up the supply?  I don't have anything substantial at the moment to do this.  I was considering some large PC fans or something, but I have no way to hook them up.  Maybe I can get some large load resistors from work if I can find some that will let me burn in or test all channels at 3A then around 2.5A for a few hours. 

Mine was purchased thru TEquipment.net.  I'll contact them about the fuses, just because it bugs me Dave got 3, my document says 3 but I got 2. 

I also managed to upgrade my Firmware last night.  Not easy with the wrong instructions given to me by RIGOL.  So far so good, but it would have literally taken 2 minutes with the correct instructions and not the 45 I wound up taking.

Thanks again Kris for the details.  Good to hear your son it taking an interest.  I also have a 12year old, but to him if it doesn't involve a controller and shooting someone on the big screen TV, he's bored with it.  He is however a very talented musician (violin), so this may be his thing. I was a drummer for many years before the engineering bug hit me.


 

[kjdotts]

wow.  Thanks for the very precise explanation Kris.   

You're welcome.

Rest assured you are not alone with your OCD.  Although I will admit yours is worse than mine.  My OCD for example makes me open DVD and Blu-Ray movies with a razor blade so I can remove the shrink wrapping as a sleeve and reuse it to keep dust off the case.  Music CD's as well.   

I completely understand. I have a collection of ~1400 DVDs and ~600 Blu-rays. I dropped physical music media years ago but I have ~10,000 albums in my digital music collection.

But darn you sir for bringing all this to my attention...   I didn't notice any of these issues until I read your post! lol

My unit also has just about every control shifted to the left a bit.  I had to look close but it's there.  The worst one is the 'wanky' display mode button to bring up those "dials" that Dave hated in his video, followed by the channel select buttons.  The rest are maybe a 1/32" or less off, but noticeable now that I know what to look for.....

I'm also a neat freak when it comes to wiring, using wire ties, routing wires, shrink wrapping wires, or just about anything that involves keeping thing super tidy.  I'm going to not open mine up just yet, but if the issues we have in common keep bugging me, I may have to.  I don't seem to have the same issues (externally anyways) that you do.  My handle is smooth and all my terminals are tight, if not just a small fraction to the left. 

Sorry! You asked for it so you got it. I'm like the evil friend who comes to visit and points out a dead pixel you hadn't noticed on your fancy new LCD TV. Seriously, I wouldn't worry about the front panel based on your description. Everything on mine was shifted to the extreme left and very noticeable. The binding post issue was the main reason I performed a complete teardown since you must to properly get the front panel removed. After all the tweaks, I am 100% happy with my unit.

Well, better get back to working on my electronics lab. Later!

-Kris

[Mr. Scram]

Sorry for kicking an old thread and my ignorance, but I feel the original question has not been answered quite yet. The only reason I see given for spending well over twice the amount of the Korad on the Rigol is that "it's nicer". You'll have to forgive me for feeling that answer is lacking a bit of substance. The Rigol seems to have better accuracy after being upgraded for yet more money. Are there any other differences that really warrant spending the money for the Rigol?

I don't really consider the Korad a hit and miss affair, considering it's been sold by Dave for quite a while and many people on the forums seem to own or use it. I just hope to understand the differences properly, as to make an informed decision myself.

[thm_w]

Sorry for kicking an old thread and my ignorance, but I feel the original question has not been answered quite yet. The only reason I see given for spending well over twice the amount of the Korad on the Rigol is that "it's nicer". You'll have to forgive me for feeling that answer is lacking a bit of substance. The Rigol seems to have better accuracy after being upgraded for yet more money. Are there any other differences that really warrant spending the money for the Rigol?

I don't really consider the Korad a hit and miss affair, considering it's been sold by Dave for quite a while and many people on the forums seem to own or use it. I just hope to understand the differences properly, as to make an informed decision myself.

Korad has no ethernet or digital I/O.
You said yourself, better accuracy. The upgrade can be had for free if you desire.
UI is vastly different, watch a video of both in operation and see if the difference is worth it to you. Is it worth being able to see power consumption, and all three channels at the same time? Is it worth being able to type in the voltage/current? That's up to you.

[IAmBack]

And how about OVP/OCP in Rigol vs Corad? Consiedring that Rigol's protection reacts after 400-800ms it is safe to say, that this PSU has no OCP/OVP feature. I'm wondering, how it is with Corad's protection. Can anyone test Korad at this matter?

[Mr. Scram]

Korad has no ethernet or digital I/O.
You said yourself, better accuracy. The upgrade can be had for free if you desire.
UI is vastly different, watch a video of both in operation and see if the difference is worth it to you. Is it worth being able to see power consumption, and all three channels at the same time? Is it worth being able to type in the voltage/current? That's up to you.

The Korad can be read and controlled through a PC. It also seems to be a little more convenient to control without navigating menu's. On the other hand, Dave's remark about the Rigol having a built in multimeter is spot-on. That justifies at least part of the extra cost. Obviously, you can do the same by adding actual multimeters, but that isn't quite as convenient.

I think I'm leaning towards the Korad at the moment, not in small part because it's not too silly to add the Rigol later. Having two power supplies isn't really extravagant and if that ever happens, the cheaper Korad can serve as a beater unit to do less responsible things with.

[mklimasz]

Regarding OVP/OCP in Korad - I can report, that the reaction is (almost) immediate; however, I haven't measured it properly (in terms of over/under-shooting nor timing - it is just what I've observed when stress testing the PSU). If it is critical, I might do so - using resistive load.

[bson]

And how about OVP/OCP in Rigol vs Corad? Consiedring that Rigol's protection reacts after 400-800ms it is safe to say, that this PSU has no OCP/OVP feature. I'm wondering, how it is with Corad's protection. Can anyone test Korad at this matter?

The Rigol's CC response is much faster than that, and CC is your main circuit protection mechanism with a lab supply.   The OVP protects the supply from your circuit, and how fast it needs to be depends on the supply.  Set it to 10V and hook up a 12V lead-acid battery on the output and I'm sure the Rigol will survive until the OVP trips.  It's a GOOD thing that a supply doesn't trip all that fast, or any inductive spike from your circuit would make it a huge nuisance fast.

[Mr. Scram]

Regarding OVP/OCP in Korad - I can report, that the reaction is (almost) immediate; however, I haven't measured it properly (in terms of over/under-shooting nor timing - it is just what I've observed when stress testing the PSU). If it is critical, I might do so - using resistive load.

What kind of stress testing did you do? I'm curious to see whether it can take a bit of a beating.

[IAmBack]

And how about OVP/OCP in Rigol vs Corad? Consiedring that Rigol's protection reacts after 400-800ms it is safe to say, that this PSU has no OCP/OVP feature. I'm wondering, how it is with Corad's protection. Can anyone test Korad at this matter?

The Rigol's CC response is much faster than that, and CC is your main circuit protection mechanism with a lab supply.   The OVP protects the supply from your circuit, and how fast it needs to be depends on the supply.  Set it to 10V and hook up a 12V lead-acid battery on the output and I'm sure the Rigol will survive until the OVP trips.  It's a GOOD thing that a supply doesn't trip all that fast, or any inductive spike from your circuit would make it a huge nuisance fast.

Spike with 0.5s duration? Isn't 10ms long enough? It's not a inrush current of 1000W squirrel - cage motor or something like this.
It may be, that the best solution is adjustable trip time. Also it could be fine to have the reaction time correlated with over-current: small oc - long time, big oc - short time.
But anyway, it should switch off faster - faster than I can remove screwdriver that is a reason of over-current...

[dgarciacampos]

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?

[nanofrog]

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?

There's a search feature in the upper left.

[Mr. Scram]

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?

It might very well be they require you to be active and contributing to the forums. In that case, two posts is probably a bit meagre.

[nanofrog]

I would also like to know how one gets the discount from TEquipment?

It might very well be they require you to be active and contributing to the forums. In that case, two posts is probably a bit meagre.

Precisely the case.  Thus far, it's simultaneously kept the code off of coupon sites and increased participation.

FWIW, it's not based on post counts, but by the amount of content of posts (code requests and LOL & similar comments are exempt from consideration). Some members have qualified with a single post.