Author Topic: Show us your $20 Transistor Tester enclosures and mods (note: lots of pics) (Read 45647 times)

madires · « **Reply #50 on:** May 05, 2017, 11:14:24 am »

The 644/1284 dev board with an ILI9341/9342 display board. The input protection (SRV05-04 and TVS) and the relay for the SamplingADC's cap are missing.

linux-works · « **Reply #51 on:** May 05, 2017, 03:04:34 pm »

I just bought a 3d printer. would like to see how the 3d printed cases work out. the one that was posted on the .ru site, can anyone send me a link to the stl or gcode files?

I'm referring to the m328 color version, knob on the left, zif on the right.

bitseeker · « **Reply #52 on:** May 05, 2017, 04:45:52 pm »

This one? https://yadi.sk/d/yW8xa5NJgUo5z/M328Kit%2BTFT

If not, navigate up one level and there are other versions.

pepe10000 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 06, 2017, 08:35:06 am »

Hello, if it is the bitseeker comment, GM328B (AY-AT DIY Kit) there is not much variety to choose.

For my taste the best are these two, I attach the files in case you need them and photos of the assembly that I am performing (they are not finished).

They have some design flaws but they can be used.

A greeting.

P.S. Unzip with WinRar.

linux-works · « **Reply #54 on:** May 06, 2017, 04:13:45 pm »

thanks for the links. I will give both a try.

I may still prefer the laser cut version, but since I have a new 3d printer, I want to get some experience using it and see what it can do.

thanks guys.

bitseeker · « **Reply #55 on:** May 06, 2017, 07:03:35 pm »

Sure thing. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

bitseeker · « **Reply #56 on:** May 06, 2017, 07:07:03 pm »

Quote from: madires on May 05, 2017, 11:14:24 am

The 644/1284 dev board with an ILI9341/9342 display board. The input protection (SRV05-04 and TVS) and the relay for the SamplingADC's cap are missing.

I didn't know you had such a nice setup for this variation, madires. It looks better than just a dev board.

Mechatrommer · « **Reply #57 on:** May 25, 2017, 04:29:42 pm »

this is enclosure for board variant as shown in "5.jpg" which the kit can be bought from ebay.. (i'm not affiliate)
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/M328-LCD-12864-Transistor-Tester-DIY-Kit-Diode-Triode-Capacitance-LCR-ESR-Meter-/201481944845?hash=item2ee9427f0d:g:7tsAAOSw2GlXKYmx

bitseeker · « **Reply #58 on:** May 25, 2017, 04:52:38 pm »

I like it, Mechatrommer. The flip-open test clips and tilting bail are neat.

PointyOintment · « **Reply #59 on:** May 27, 2017, 05:22:54 am »

That test clip looks really convenient. I might have to make something like that. How did you get that terrible surface finish on the front of the case?

Mechatrommer · « **Reply #60 on:** May 27, 2017, 10:45:45 am »

Quote from: PointyOintment on May 27, 2017, 05:22:54 am

How did you get that terrible surface finish on the front of the case?

because its not sticking to the bed well so there are few void spots. where it sticked, it brought some of the blue tape with it, i have to postprocess and sand it to get better finish result. i've not used my printer for some time.. and its abs, abs gives me bad result. whats not obvious is the warping effect. i can get better output if using pla, but i want to finish up my abs supply first.

linux-works · « **Reply #61 on:** May 27, 2017, 06:53:09 pm »

I'm a month into 3d printing (first machine, still learning). its not easy and it takes getting used to the brand of filament, your machine, slicer settings, so many things.

I only print PLA, so far, and while its the 'easiest' thing to print, I still get warping from heat on some corners, on some larger items. on small items, its no problem.

build-tak is helping. I had mixed luck with blue tape but it would bubble and lift under heat (not even heated bed) and its a hassle to keep replacing the tape. try build-tak stuck onto a piece of glass.

Lighthammer · « **Reply #62 on:** June 12, 2017, 07:39:59 am »

Made my case for M328 tester with color display.
I used following components:
- 18650 LiPo-Cell from broken power-bank (connector broken, cell ok) 2000mAh
- Loader for Lipo with USB-connector
- Step-up converter to 5V to power the tester
- Step-up converter to 26V for Z-Diode test
- The button on the left cuts power when pressed, if the MCU hangs.
- The test-socket sits on a adaptor-board to lift it up, and the bottom row has 2221333 connection for different IR-decoder pinout.

tooki · « **Reply #63 on:** June 12, 2017, 02:12:38 pm »

Quote from: aargee on March 21, 2017, 01:53:19 am

Chalk and cheese.

Got the colour just right, it was printed before the Agilent arrived.

Maybe I spent too much time helping graphic designers calibrate their displays and printers back when I did tech support, or maybe I'm just an intrinsic color nut, but to me, those are noticeably different shades of orange. (That said, I assume 3D printer filament comes in a couple of colors you have to choose from, and for not having the Agilent in front of you to compare, it is a close match.)

cdev · « **Reply #64 on:** June 12, 2017, 04:43:04 pm »

I have mine in the cardboard box that my Raspberry Pi came in. The hole for the display, test button, and ZIF socket is covered with a cardboard cover made from a frozen pizza box with a bit of velcro to hold it shut when not in use. I also use a rubber band to keep it shut. This works well. I have used cardboard - sometimes combined with copper flashing or tape, when shielding is required, to protect projects for a long time. If something isn't meant to go outdoors, and doesn't run hot or contain parts that are connected to line voltage, it works very well and its very easy to do. I save pieces of cardboard that are bright colors or have some interesting image on them so the boxes are colorful.

bitseeker · « **Reply #65 on:** June 13, 2017, 02:19:25 am »

Nifty reuse, cdev. Post some photos, too.

cdev · « **Reply #66 on:** June 13, 2017, 04:01:26 am »

Added!

bitseeker · « **Reply #67 on:** June 14, 2017, 12:20:36 am »

Hehe, nice color bars.

mauroh · « **Reply #68 on:** June 23, 2017, 12:46:30 pm »

Hi, this is a fload of pictures with the last modificatione I made to the case of my tester to better fit my needs.

Additions:
1) External 12V connector
2) DC/DC step-down from external 12V or VBat to 5V 2A to power the external bluetooth or servo motors or other external adapters without stress the little internal regulator
3) power switch to cut off the external 5V when not needed. Now I can leave the bluetooth adapter or the servo motors connected and power it only when needed
4) Connectors on the mini banana plug. Now I can lift the PCB without desolder the connecttions to the mini banana connectors
5) Bluetooth adapter
6) Servo motor standard connector

I really like the solution from Mechatrommer for the SMD components and on another thread I found an interesting zip socket for sor-23 components.
I'm thinking to combine this to come up with a simple solution for quickly test the sot-23 transiostors

Mauro

mauroh · « **Reply #69 on:** June 23, 2017, 01:16:25 pm »

I found another thread talking about the sot23 zif.
Interesting ideas....

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/diy-sot23-zif-socket/

bitseeker · « **Reply #70 on:** June 23, 2017, 05:41:19 pm »

Lots of good ideas for SMD connections. I like the jig with the pogo pins and the simplicity of using a neodymium magnet for holding down an SOIC.

MosherIV · « **Reply #71 on:** July 21, 2017, 04:25:38 pm »

Hi

I have time on my hands so I got round to boxing up my LCR-T4 meter

bitseeker · « **Reply #72 on:** July 22, 2017, 12:03:06 am »

Nice! I really need to finish the enclosure for mine. So many projects, so little time.

pepe10000 · « **Reply #73 on:** September 12, 2017, 06:33:54 am »

AY-AT DIY KIT (GM328B) multimeter.

Big box printed in 3D:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2070417
ISP Connector.
3.7V Lithium battery for a photo camera (recycled).
Charger module + power supply (9.2v).
LC filter (not necessary, but I like well filtered voltages).
Low battery led made with a KA75330.
LDO HT7550 changed by an MCP1702 5v.
Reference voltage TL431 changed by an LM4040 2.5v.
Battery cutout switch.
Zener measurement up to 45v with DC-DC Step-UP manual switch.
TVS protection for external voltage.
Filter capacitors for the power lines of the processor and the reset.
Socket ZIF supplemented.
Copper sticker for discharge of capacitors (used in glassworks).
Rubber stickers for the base (used as insulation in windows).
Stickers for serigraphs printed on inkjet printer and improved with spray varnish.

pepe10000 · « **Reply #74 on:** December 17, 2017, 09:02:33 am »

AY-AT DIY KIT (GM328B) multimeter.

Style box printed in 3D:
http://3dtoday.ru/3d-models/mechanical-parts/body/box_tft_gm328_transistor_tester_/
ISP Connector.
3.7V Lithium battery of a mobile (recycled).
Charger module + power supply (9.2v).
LC filter (not necessary, but I like well filtered voltages).
Low battery led made with a KA75330.
LDO HT7550 changed by an MCP1702 5v.
Reference voltage TL431 changed by an LM4040 2.5v.
Battery cutout switch.
Zener measurement up to 25v with DC-DC Step-UP manual switch.
TVS protection for external voltage.
Filter capacitors for the power lines of the processor and the reset.
Socket ZIF supplemented.
Copper sticker for discharge of capacitors (used in glassworks).
Rubber stickers for the base (used as insulation in windows).
Stickers for serigraphs printed on inkjet printer and improved with spray varnish.


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Author Topic: Show us your $20 Transistor Tester enclosures and mods (note: lots of pics) (Read 45647 times)

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