Simpson 260 Series 2

[Aurora900]

So I was going through some drawers looking for something just now and came across something I forgot about: The Simpson 260 multimeter.  I acquired it when I wasn't as into electronics as I am now and didn't think to look into it.  It belonged to my grandfather, so I figured it had to be old.  I looked it up and found the exact version and approximately when it was made.  It's the series 2, which was made in the 1940s and 50s.

I don't have the probes for it... so I was wondering if you guys know anything about this meter?  Is it worth finding probes for it?  I can't seem to find much info on this model.  It probably still works... everything else my grandfather owned still works lol.

[w2aew]

So I was going through some drawers looking for something just now and came across something I forgot about: The Simpson 260 multimeter.  I acquired it when I wasn't as into electronics as I am now and didn't think to look into it.  It belonged to my grandfather, so I figured it had to be old.  I looked it up and found the exact version and approximately when it was made.  It's the series 2, which was made in the 1940s and 50s.

I don't have the probes for it... so I was wondering if you guys know anything about this meter?  Is it worth finding probes for it?  I can't seem to find much info on this model.  It probably still works... everything else my grandfather owned still works lol.

I really enjoy the 260s that I have.  The most common problem is battery leakage causing corrosion on the PCB.

Everything you wanted to know about the 260 series. Http://simpson260.com

[Aurora900]

I really enjoy the 260s that I have.  The most common problem is battery leakage causing corrosion on the PCB.

Everything you wanted to know about the 260 series. http://simpson260.com

That's the site I found... i kept clicking all the models till i found the one that matched what mine looks like

So you think its worth getting probes for it?  I just opened it up to check for corrosion... and amazingly enough the battery in it hasn't leaked!  So I guess I'm lucky I don't have to clean up a corroded mess

[Joule Thief]

Also be aware of the 20,000 ohms per volt sensitivity spec. The impedance of the meter varies depending on the basic sensitivity of the meter movement and the range which is selected. On the 10 volt range, the meter essentially is a (10 x 20,000) 200K impedance connected across the component you are measuring.
This lower sensitivity will have a greater effect than digital meters on high impedance circuits under test.

Otherwise, I have a Series 5 and 6 and love them both. But their application is becoming more limited day by day. I use them exclusively for troubleshooting pre 80's automotive circuits.

[mzacharias]

I like the look and internals of the 2 series but I hate those stupid pin-probes they use. The 3 series through the 6 series used standard 4mm banana. That said, it's worth buying a set of test leads for it.
I would mention that older analog types very frequently have issues with battery terminal corrosion, and other assorted sources of bad connections, broken solder etc which cause poor or intermittent performance, especially on ohms function. I've had to address this on several Simpsons (even on a Fluke 8840A, come to think of it...).
It will best be used for quick continuity checks, confirming a low value resistor is OK, visual trending and the like. Voltage readings simply aren't good enough to rely on for many modern applications, and analog VOM's generally aren't very good ohmmeters by modern standards.

[Excavatoree]

I'm told by the Simpson expert from whom I buy my "good" Simpsons, that only a 6 or later is reasonable to use.   He tells me that the meter movement for the 1 and 2 series (similar to some Flukes, these aren't labeled "series 1" or "series 2")  is especially fragile and most are no good.

I'd use paperclips, or I'd access the terminals from the rear (with the back removed) and do some tests before purchasing probes.

Most used Simpsons I've seen have meter movements that need some work.  I've tried to adjust them myself, and only succeeded in learning how difficult it is.  Why do you think I began collecting LCD display meters instead?

[Aurora900]

Oh wow, lots of good information here.  I'm always impressed when I hop on this forum, haha.

Excavatoree: Good idea with the paper clips...  And my grandfather wasn't the kind of person to throw stuff around, I bet the meter movement is still okay.  When I took it apart I also found a sticker inside from when it was serviced.  I don't know what was serviced, but hey, at least part of this thing is 20 years newer than the rest

How beautiful is the inside of this thing though... I love it.

[Aurora900]

I put in a fresh battery, but no response from the meter using my paperclip probes

I noticed theres another couple things that look like AA batteries in the meter... maybe those need to be replaced?  It looks like they aren't really meant to be taken out... it looks like I'll have to completely take it apart to get to them.  Or maybe I'll give up and see if I can repair the LCD on my Beckman Tech 310 (it's burnt across the middle)

[w2aew]

Yes, there are AAs in that model too. The black "cover" that you see when you take the rear case off will come off and give you access to the AAs. The AAs are used for some of the resistance ranges, and the D cell is used for others.

For me, I use the 260 whenever I want to view a voltage or current that changes slowly when I'm tuning or adjusting something, peaking a response such as aligning a receiver's IF chain, etc. I don't use it for accurate measurements - that's what my DMM is for.  An analog meter is so much easier to watch for these types tuning/tweaking/peaking types of measurements and adjustments.

[simpson]

FYI, this guy has some interesting reviews of Simpson meters as well as the British Avometers which are similar. Here is one of his reviews.



Check out his YouTube channel for a few more.