Author Topic: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread  (Read 14550509 times)

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Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6525 on: January 18, 2018, 07:26:27 pm »
You've got another element haven't you? Shove that in and try it. Isn't the display showing ERROR, mine does if something is not quite right?
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Offline neo

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6526 on: January 18, 2018, 08:26:54 pm »
EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?
A hopeless addict (and slave) to TEA and a firm believer that high frequency is little more than modern hoodoo.
 

Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6527 on: January 18, 2018, 08:57:42 pm »
EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?
Double check the polarity, not all tants follow the same polarity indication, some show a +for the positive lead, others use different length of leads etc, best bet is to google it. I made the same mistake once and the cap didn't blow but the operation of the section the cap was in ceased to function. Checked the polarity, had one round wrong way, corrected it and bingo, everything worked again. Yes tants can ruin your day in more ways than one  :-DD
Who let Murphy in?

Brymen-Fluke-HP-Thurlby-Thander-Tek-Extech-Black Star-GW-Avo-Kyoritsu-Amprobe-ITT-Robin-TTi
 
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Offline bd139

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6528 on: January 18, 2018, 09:16:45 pm »
You've got another element haven't you? Shove that in and try it. Isn't the display showing ERROR, mine does if something is not quite right?

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?

Check negative rail. I have an 8050A and it did that. Turned out to be one of the filter caps. Might have been a coincidence.
 
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Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6529 on: January 18, 2018, 10:02:36 pm »
Having used both of my T12 solder sets, I can confidently say that my favourite is the Quicko, it has the best set of options in the menu system and they are all quite intuitive to use with the exception of number 8 which reads "Battery Guard" presumably it did something naughty and needed to be incarcerated? 

It gives you the ability to select a voltage between 10v and 24v. Seeing as these all come without a manual it is useful if you're powering the iron from batteries maybe to switch the set off if the voltage falls below a pre-set value?

Here is a list of the various menu options on each of the controllers:

Quicko                                     Blue OLD controller (branded Hakko)
1  Calibration                            1  Temperature Adjust
2  Auto Sleep                            2  Wake Set
3  Auto Poweroff                       3  Standby
4  Boost Duration                      4  Sleep
5  Boost Degree                        5  Boost Temp
6  Wakeup Method                    6  Boost Time
7  Buzzer Switch                       7  Buzzer
8  Battery Guard                       8  Init
9  Firmware
A  Factory Reset

There is a more complete set of options on the Quicko and the control is more logical in as much as when you get to either 1 or A you stop scrolling to change menu option you scroll the reverse direction, whereas on the Hakko, it's a endless loop. Standby on the Hakko is the same as sleep on the Quicko where both irons go 150C and the moment you pick the irons up they switch back to the last set temp ready for soldering literally in mere seconds.

It therefore follows that the Auto Poweroff on the Quicko equates to Sleep on the Hakko and here there is subtle difference, once in this mode, picking up the iron on the Quicko switches it back on again and withing seconds you be soldering. The Hakko though really does mean OFF and just picking up the iron does nothing, to wake it up again you need to give the encoder a quick press and its switches back on again and is ready for use in seconds. This may or may not be a useful feature for you but there is no way of changing it on the Hakko. On the Quicko, you can disable the handle motion detector so it will only respond to the encoder being pressed, but that also deactivate the motion sensor in the sleep mode.

Menu option 1 on them both is where you can adjust the actual temperature at the tip if you have a suitable thermocouple or a Hakko 191 to use. Number 8 on the Hakko whatever setting you store (0- or 1) it never changes from the default which is 0?
To get into the menu mode you need to press and hold the encoder for 2 seconds.  In normal mode a quick press of the encoder invokes different responses, Quicko you get the instant boosted temperature but Hakko puts in standby mode. A slightly longer press on the Quicko puts it into Poweroff mode. Double press on the Hakko invokes Boost mode.

The Quicko makes more use of the buzzer, for instance all the time when in boost mode it emits short bursts followed by a longer tone at the end of the boost period which I find reassuring so you don’t need to look at the display to affirm that you’re in boost mode.

On switching on, the Quicko emits a longer beep and the screen springs to life and displays “T12 Soldering Iron Station” briefly and switches to the normal display with the top line in yellow, top left shows the set temp and top right shows the amount of power being used in terms of percentage points. Centre line has a larger font and shows current tip temp in blue and the bottom line is also blue and bottom left shows psu output in volts while bottom right shows current internal temp of the case, any change in status is shown the top left corner in reverse contrast.

The Hakko display on switch ON there is delay and then a quick beep on the buzzer and the display springs to life and follows largely the same format as the Quicko except for the following changes, top right is the internal temperature bottom right shows 3.30V and I have no idea what is, it does not change. When heating up from cold or a standby mode, the unit gives a little beep as it reaches the set temp.
When soldering there is nothing to choose between them, they are both very confident at soldering, although I have noticed on the odd occasion with the 9051 handle a faint crackling can be heard like the tip is not making good contact with the handle connections, something I have not experienced when using the 907 handle which has really big contacts in the handle but the contacts on the 9501 are not visible so they may not be as beefy.

I do like the feel of the 9501, it provides greater control of the tip but if the crackling continues I may consider using the 907 and see if it cures it.
Which one would I recommend to anyone, without a moment’s hesitation it would be the Quicko, it just seems to be the more balanced setup and the controller does in my opinion play a big part in user satisfaction, plus the Quicko controller uses plug and sockets for its connections to the iron socket so is easier to both wire up and also replace if needed at any point.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2018, 10:24:41 pm by Specmaster »
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Offline GreyWoolfe

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6530 on: January 18, 2018, 10:09:02 pm »
Worth checking Keysight spares: https://www.keysight.com/my/faces/fapHomePage.jspx

They stock lots of stuff. I've ordered stuff from local sales reps before as well.

No love there.  I checked the part numbers written as is in the manual and the searches came back 0.  I am watching, pondering and ruminating on a piece of gear that may help, a 5316A counter that is listed as parts. The button size looks like a match.  I am trying to decide what I will offer on it.
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Offline Cubdriver

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6531 on: January 18, 2018, 10:21:23 pm »
Worth checking Keysight spares: https://www.keysight.com/my/faces/fapHomePage.jspx

They stock lots of stuff. I've ordered stuff from local sales reps before as well.

No love there.  I checked the part numbers written as is in the manual and the searches came back 0.  I am watching, pondering and ruminating on a piece of gear that may help, a 5316A counter that is listed as parts. The button size looks like a match.  I am trying to decide what I will offer on it.

I'm pretty certain those are the same buttons.  They were used on a lot of the mid-80s stuff like 172x and 174x scopes, too, FWIW.

-Pat
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Offline neo

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6532 on: January 18, 2018, 11:08:28 pm »
EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?
Double check the polarity, not all tants follow the same polarity indication, some show a +for the positive lead, others use different length of leads etc, best bet is to google it. I made the same mistake once and the cap didn't blow but the operation of the section the cap was in ceased to function. Checked the polarity, had one round wrong way, corrected it and bingo, everything worked again. Yes tants can ruin your day in more ways than one  :-DD

Thank you, but i know for sure the polarity is right. One lead is longer than the other as well at a littlw plus mark, and if that wasn't enough evidence i also changed all the tants in my 8010A using the same model of new tantalum and it works perfectly.
A hopeless addict (and slave) to TEA and a firm believer that high frequency is little more than modern hoodoo.
 

Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6533 on: January 18, 2018, 11:15:00 pm »
EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?
Double check the polarity, not all tants follow the same polarity indication, some show a +for the positive lead, others use different length of leads etc, best bet is to google it. I made the same mistake once and the cap didn't blow but the operation of the section the cap was in ceased to function. Checked the polarity, had one round wrong way, corrected it and bingo, everything worked again. Yes tants can ruin your day in more ways than one  :-DD

Thank you, but i know for sure the polarity is right. One lead is longer than the other as well at a littlw plus mark, and if that wasn't enough evidence i also changed all the tants in my 8010A using the same model of new tantalum and it works perfectly.
Yep I'm sure you do, but in my in case the tant was correctly installed according to the markings, but luckily I took a before and shot on my phone and reviewing showed that I did indeed have one incorrectly installed. Then I checked the schematic and it showed installed the way I had it, but reversing did cure the problem, might not work for you though. With all that I've heard about tants being reversed I was surprised it survived but I expect it would depend on what it was being used for.
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Offline djos

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6534 on: January 18, 2018, 11:15:48 pm »
Display is showing 0 degrees. Think it’s the handle or element. Might be my shitty soldering.

Definitely not the power supply. It’s been fed with high quality linear juice :)

I have 1 T12 tip that produces errors and wont heat up, maybe you got a dud too?

Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6535 on: January 18, 2018, 11:34:45 pm »
Mr resistance decade box arrived today and it was in a right state, just like the photo on eBay showed it to be but I had hoped that it be better in the flesh, it wasn't. So I gave it just quick wipe over with a cleaning cloth and some soap which improved it a bit but I did not want to invest to much time in case it was a turd inside.

Opened it up and was pleasantly surprised to see it was clean inside and built in a similar fashion to mine with 2% resistors soldered directly onto the decimal thumb wheel switches which were certainly of far better quality then mine were. Connecting my bench meter and the thing was shot  :palm: but it looked so good inside.

Opened it up again and took apart the decade switches and checked the values of each decade and the worst was the X1M and the X100K, checking these resistors was giving me horrendous readings. Out came the secret weapon, the T12 and I re-flowed each joint, and a dose of Servisol into each switch and worked the switches for a few minutes and checked values and they all back within 2% again so I reassembled the decades and popped them back into the box and checked again, almost perfect, certainly well within the 2% and was much nearer to 1% then anything else it was a winner in the end.

Any ideas on how I can clean up the banana jacks? I have just worn out my glass fibre pen and would rather not replace it as the little bits of fibre glass stick into me and make me itch like a bastard and besides that I'm sure it falls in to same category as asbestos in as much as it is harmful to health.



« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 01:30:06 am by Specmaster »
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Offline neo

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6536 on: January 18, 2018, 11:39:42 pm »
You've got another element haven't you? Shove that in and try it. Isn't the display showing ERROR, mine does if something is not quite right?

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?

Check negative rail. I have an 8050A and it did that. Turned out to be one of the filter caps. Might have been a coincidence.

Thank you i checked and something wonky is going on.
13 is 14.4
6 is 6
-5 is -5
-15 is -10

Looks like fresh caps just shot to the top of my list unless anyone has better ideas?

So as to not take up more space in TEA i made a repair thread for it, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-8050a-voltage-read-issue/new/#new
A hopeless addict (and slave) to TEA and a firm believer that high frequency is little more than modern hoodoo.
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6537 on: January 18, 2018, 11:52:02 pm »
Seems the freight companies tried their hardest to murder my new scope before I did.  :palm:

Thank you for the double box and epp Micsig  :-+
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Offline bd139

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6538 on: January 19, 2018, 12:03:37 am »
You've got another element haven't you? Shove that in and try it. Isn't the display showing ERROR, mine does if something is not quite right?

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?

Check negative rail. I have an 8050A and it did that. Turned out to be one of the filter caps. Might have been a coincidence.

Thank you i checked and something wonky is going on.
13 is 14.4
6 is 6
-5 is -5
-15 is -10

Looks like fresh caps just shot to the top of my list unless anyone has better ideas?

So as to not take up more space in TEA i made a repair thread for it, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-8050a-voltage-read-issue/new/#new

Filter caps! Had to do the same with my 8050A. Ones before the regulators were the culprit in mine. Assuming you don’t have the battery version. The battery version is more of a dick and requires through debugging.

Incidentally at least it’s not as bad as my 8000A. The pass transistors were ruined somehow so I had to replace the damn things. Voltages right up. Think beta had slowly declined to nothing. That’s still awaiting a new display module as it has a bodged one that the previous owner made a right mess of.
 

Offline neo

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6539 on: January 19, 2018, 12:07:56 am »
You've got another element haven't you? Shove that in and try it. Isn't the display showing ERROR, mine does if something is not quite right?

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

EEP! I replaced two tants in 8050A and now it doesn't measure voltage, will measure resistance but not voltage. Yes i got the polarity right, other than that what might i of missed?

Check negative rail. I have an 8050A and it did that. Turned out to be one of the filter caps. Might have been a coincidence.

Thank you i checked and something wonky is going on.
13 is 14.4
6 is 6
-5 is -5
-15 is -10

Looks like fresh caps just shot to the top of my list unless anyone has better ideas?

So as to not take up more space in TEA i made a repair thread for it, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-8050a-voltage-read-issue/new/#new

Filter caps! Had to do the same with my 8050A. Ones before the regulators were the culprit in mine. Assuming you don’t have the battery version. The battery version is more of a dick and requires through debugging.

Incidentally at least it’s not as bad as my 8000A. The pass transistors were ruined somehow so I had to replace the damn things. Voltages right up. Think beta had slowly declined to nothing. That’s still awaiting a new display module as it has a bodged one that the previous owner made a right mess of.

My 8050A is the battery version, also my 8000A has what i would call unpleasant coil whine.
A hopeless addict (and slave) to TEA and a firm believer that high frequency is little more than modern hoodoo.
 

Offline jasonbrent

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6540 on: January 19, 2018, 01:03:07 am »
In reading through the group therapy thread, I'm not sure that there is a term that appropriately covers the challenges of storing and accessing gear.

... I say this as I'm now on day 4.. or is 5.. of trying to fit computing, electronics, 3d printing, R/C, and music all in my office at one, accessible and "tidy". ... while waiting on a keithley 2015 to arrive and complicate things again. :)

 

Online xrunner

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6541 on: January 19, 2018, 02:34:13 am »
In reading through the group therapy thread, I'm not sure that there is a term that appropriately covers the challenges of storing and accessing gear.

Hmmm ... have you checked the list of terms at the beginning of this topic (page 1)? If the term does not already exist I would invite and encourage you to make one for the group.  :popcorn:
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Offline bitseekerTopic starter

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6542 on: January 19, 2018, 06:04:42 am »
I second that encouragement since I do update the glossary as new terminology develops. :-+
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Offline bitseekerTopic starter

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6543 on: January 19, 2018, 06:06:14 am »
how did you ensure a good long-term ground connection for the enclosure since bare aluminum oxidizes so readily?
a star washer and the ring terminal are then placed over the screw and the lot are is screwed together so the star washer adds bite into the frame and provides a really good earth. The screw threads also bite into the casing to give additional grounding points.
Got it. I suspected something like that, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the rundown.

And nice job with that decade box. It cleaned up and reflowed nicely.
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Offline Ero-Shan

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6544 on: January 19, 2018, 07:23:54 am »
Over the last two weeks, I expanded my TM500 assets by a TM515 (traveller mainframe), a PG505 and a FG503. The FG503 came from a trusted source and saves space in the rack (no need to operate the FG504 for a 1kHz audio quick test), the TM515 at 78€ and the PG505 at 97€ were good grabs, I think!
Now I have just to get one of the FAST PG's, the RF sweeper.....and so on.

I was looking for a PG50x (preferably one of the faster ones, of course), but never found one with an acceptable price tag. TM500 plugins are rather scarce in Germany.

(Just a few days busy with other things, and the thread has grown several pages ... catching up takes a lot of time, and replies come latish.)
 

Offline beanflying

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6545 on: January 19, 2018, 09:46:05 am »
Bread or Dough - necessary evil from the sweat our our brow or the aches in our bones. Used to exchange for ancient TEA related equipment from dubious sources and or condition.  ::)

When filled with B&E this pile is $500 AUpesos worth of TEA  >:D
« Last Edit: January 19, 2018, 09:48:42 am by beanflying »
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Offline Specmaster

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6546 on: January 19, 2018, 11:59:17 am »

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

Had you left it running for a while but not been using it? I was wondering if it had a later firmware installed that had the same function as the Hakko controller whereby once the set parameters for the sleep function had been met, it went into sleep mode (150C) and if no movement of the handle for a time (user set) it might have gone into power off mode in which case the display would be on but either displaying 0C or the room temp and then you pressing the encoder would bring it back to life?
Who let Murphy in?

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Offline Blake

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6547 on: January 19, 2018, 02:27:35 pm »
I've been following the T12 discussion on here for awhile and have been going back and forth between the STM32 controllers and the cheaper Quicko one.  I think I settled on the Quicko DIY Kit that includes one tip but should I get the default T12-K or ask for something different?  I'm looking for something I could use for most tasks and plan on getting the real Hakko tips in the future if I need something more specific.

 

Offline Neomys Sapiens

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6548 on: January 19, 2018, 04:17:34 pm »
Over the last two weeks, I expanded my TM500 assets by a TM515 (traveller mainframe), a PG505 and a FG503. The FG503 came from a trusted source and saves space in the rack (no need to operate the FG504 for a 1kHz audio quick test), the TM515 at 78€ and the PG505 at 97€ were good grabs, I think!
Now I have just to get one of the FAST PG's, the RF sweeper.....and so on.

I was looking for a PG50x (preferably one of the faster ones, of course), but never found one with an acceptable price tag. TM500 plugins are rather scarce in Germany.

(Just a few days busy with other things, and the thread has grown several pages ... catching up takes a lot of time, and replies come latish.)
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Offline bd139

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Re: Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread
« Reply #6549 on: January 19, 2018, 06:33:13 pm »

Found it. Did a reset and the problem went away. Appears to have been software related! :(

Had you left it running for a while but not been using it? I was wondering if it had a later firmware installed that had the same function as the Hakko controller whereby once the set parameters for the sleep function had been met, it went into sleep mode (150C) and if no movement of the handle for a time (user set) it might have gone into power off mode in which case the display would be on but either displaying 0C or the room temp and then you pressing the encoder would bring it back to life?

Not 100% sure to be honest. It wasn't left for more than a couple of minutes. Seems ok now. I spent some time this morning throwing some more LEDs on this UV board. It's killing me this; wish I'd just bought a bloody UV box now.

Going to be a little short on time and money for TEA over the next few weeks. Got a moving house date finally so so much crap to organise.  Expecting a month of realistic down time.  Boooooooooooooo.

The annoying thing is I've got a pile of shit coming from Aliexpress coming that might actually arrive after I've moved  :palm: ... RM are crap at postal redirections.
 


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