Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[mnementh]

OBD-2 cables FTW. Also got one, a USB jobby and Multi ECU scan. Allows me to kick off the DPF regen before emissions test (thus prolonging the vehicle life and wallet contents) and kill the service indicator every time I don't get it serviced

med6573's one is a rather nicely engineered bit of kit though. I haven't cracked mine open but it's probably got bugger all in it.

On this side of the pond annual inspections, and what it entails, is left to each state to decide. California is the strictest state when it comes to emissions testing and there are some states that have no testing of either safety or emissions. I reside in New York State and we have an annual “Safety and Emissions Inspection”. The vehicle is checked for tires, brakes, steering, lights, etc. If the vehicle is 1996 or newer the ECU is linked on line to DMV (Dept of Motor Vehicles) and scanned for current and pending DTC's. If any are found it's an automatic fail. Even if it's DTC P0440 for loose fuel cap you fail. Get it fixed then test again (and pay again).

A few months ago the Honda Civic starting puking DTC P1457. The detail is “Evaporative check valve minor leak to atmosphere”. In other words....I had a small fuel vapor leak near the charcoal canister assembly. Horrors! I'm polluting! A bit of research revealed that this is a fairly common problem in older Hondas. The evap valve and the canister are located under the vehicle by the fuel tank, exposed to the elements. The evap valve rusts and develops pin hole leaks. And individuals reported that shops and dealers charged upwards of $500 USD to fix it. So a few weeks ago I got under the Civic and checked this valve. Sure enough, it was rusted. I ordered a new valve and canister assembly. About $150 USD in parts. 1.5 hours of my labor (cheap) and the new parts were installed. Reset the DTC and drove it for a week to make sure it was fixed. It was. Last Wednesday it passed it's annual inspection with no issues. That scan tool paid for itself again.

Federal Regulations over here are (or at least WERE, before Resident Chump put an imbecile at the head of the EPA specifically chosen to destroy the agency) making certain minimum requirements mandatory for all state safety inspections; among them being REQUIRED to actively inspect for and seek out circumvented and damaged emissions-control hardware, and to connect to the car and make sure that aside from not having any current codes, the car is actually operating in closed loop mode and has completed all I/M Readiness tests, (meaning that the computer can confirm that it hasn't had a recurring DTC erased just before being taken to the inspection station) and that the vehicle you're inspecting has the same VIN as your paperwork and that the VIN in the computer is the same.

This was supposed to be part of the nationwide OBDIII rollout; that of course has been pretty much mulched by every lobbyist for every corporate interest you can think of (and some you haven't even imagined) for the last decade and a half. It's probably a good thing; one of the core concepts the lobbyists crammed into OBDIII (A truly misguided concept, IMO) is that every car's emission system should be remotely monitored... which for a host of reasons is just plain stupid, not just the obvious right-to-privacy issues.

Nonetheless... if your state hasn't already implemented these minimum emissions tests, they ARE coming soon. Get ready.


mnem
If you think the EPA is the enemy, you are part of the problem.

[Cerebus]

Cleaned the HP 6237B seeing as I have bugger all else to do this evening and am in OCD mode.

It's the cleanest HP supply I've ever seen! They're usually in a right state 

Looks like new! Wow!

Can you see the manufacturer and model of the power switch? I think it may be the same as on the HP 6114A. I got one that needs a replacement, but my good one uses a rocker switch, not flat toggle.

From appearance I'd say they were a C&K part (once upon a time I used to buy, and solder, these by the thousand). Yup, quick look at the service manual says C&K 7318-PHI. I think that's a no longer manufactured part, a look at the 7000 series datasheet doesn't show a 7318.

[bitseeker]

Thanks, Cerebus. I was afraid it'd be long gone. I'll keep my eyes peeled for something that looks similar or a parts box. If I'm lucky, I'll run across an old dead supply with the switch and the bar-style feet.

[bd139]

Cleaned the HP 6237B seeing as I have bugger all else to do this evening and am in OCD mode.

It's the cleanest HP supply I've ever seen! They're usually in a right state 

Looks like new! Wow!

Can you see the manufacturer and model of the power switch? I think it may be the same as on the HP 6114A. I got one that needs a replacement, but my good one uses a rocker switch, not flat toggle.

From appearance I'd say they were a C&K part (once upon a time I used to buy, and solder, these by the thousand). Yup, quick look at the service manual says C&K 7318-PHI. I think that's a no longer manufactured part, a look at the 7000 series datasheet doesn't show a 7318.

It is a C&K unit. I can’t see the model number as it’s on the side. It’s bloody huge for a toggle switch though

[Specmaster]

Oops, it seems that I don't know my own equipment as well as I thought I did  I got my TMK out of its case today to do a comparison against the Kyoritsu and the AVO. Now I thought that the TMK only went to 1.5Kv, it doesn't, it goes to 5Kv the same as the Kyoritsu.



That being so, lets do a little quiz / test. Which of these probes would you trust to be safest at 5Kv if  you had to use one of these on 5Kv, which one would you go with, the one on the left or the one on the right? Also can you identify which probe belongs to which meter?

[med6753]

Neither.  Above 1KV and it's time to bust out the big guns. B&K PR-28.

But it's intended for 10 MEG input DMM or VTVM so it wouldn't work with your VOM's.

[tautech]

Neither.  Above 1KV and it's time to bust out the big guns. B&K PR-28.

But it's intended for 10 MEG input DMM or VTVM so it wouldn't work with your VOM's.

What's happened to all the real men when a little bit of HV comes out ! 

[med6753]

Hey, I once got zapped with approx 14KV and I'll tell you it HURT. 

My father was working on a portable TV. He had the chassis pulled away from the CRT so the outer aquadad coating wasn't grounded to the chassis. The TV was on so the HV was pumping into the inner coating. As you know that coating is like a big capacitor. Well dummy me pointed at the screen of the CRT to show how nice the picture looked. At that moment the HV found it's ground. Through my finger. I drew an arc at least 2 inches.       

So I have a healthy respect for high voltage.

[Specmaster]

Neither.  Above 1KV and it's time to bust out the big guns. B&K PR-28.

But it's intended for 10 MEG input DMM or VTVM so it wouldn't work with your VOM's.

Well now thats hardly the right attitude is it?

The question was IF you had to, WHICH one would you go with? Also of course which probe belongs to which meter??

Now then it strikes me that both meters are made by well respected companies, both have japanese engineering so should be well engineered and tested to their rating provided of course that you take  adequate precautions and not standing in a pool of water etc  , so with that in mind both probes should be safe to use given the aforementioned factors. Obviously we all would much prefer to use something that was rated at 40Kv such as the B&K PR-28 with a safety factor of 8 times the 5Kv.

[Specmaster]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me? 

[GreyWoolfe]

Nonetheless... if your state hasn't already implemented these minimum emissions tests, they ARE coming soon. Get ready.

In the early-mid 90's Florida instituted vehicle inspections.  Only lasted a couple of years and then disappeared, not sure why.  Be interesting if this testing really comes back.

[bd139]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me? 

Larger tip increases the probability of the electrons actually choosing to hit the tip and not leaking up the handle.

[med6753]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me?

You know, I've thought the same thing. I recently used it to set the HV on the Tek 465 and it was close quarters and I had to be real careful I didn't cause a flashover. I'm considering putting some sleeving on about 3/4 of the tip but you would still have to be careful or you might exceed the flashover point of the sleeving itself.

[Specmaster]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me? 

Larger tip increases the probability of the electrons actually choosing to hit the tip and not leaking up the handle.

But does it really need 2" of exposed tip?

From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]

[Specmaster]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me?

You know, I've thought the same thing. I recently used it to set the HV on the Tek 465 and it was close quarters and I had to be real careful I didn't cause a flashover. I'm considering putting some sleeving on about 3/4 of the tip but you would still have to be careful or you might exceed the flashover point of the sleeving itself.

Sleeving should improve it in my mind.

From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]

[tautech]

To be honest, I never quite understand why the big guns HV probes always seem to have such massive, uninsulated tips on them, especially when so often the test points or accessible points on HV are so often in such close proximity to other items or even grounded metal work, seems to be inviting flash overs if you ask me? 

Larger tip increases the probability of the electrons actually choosing to hit the tip and not leaking up the handle.

But does it really need 2" of exposed tip?

That's for poking nosey buggers that come looking while you're measuring HV and offer the risk of distraction. 

[med6753]

The question was IF you had to, WHICH one would you go with? Also of course which probe belongs to which meter??

Now then it strikes me that both meters are made by well respected companies, both have japanese engineering so should be well engineered and tested to their rating provided of course that you take  adequate precautions and not standing in a pool of water etc  , so with that in mind both probes should be safe to use given the aforementioned factors. Obviously we all would much prefer to use something that was rated at 40Kv such as the B&K PR-28 with a safety factor of 8 times the 5Kv.

And the Japanese consider Hari Kari a noble way to die. 

[BravoV]

And the Japanese consider Hari Kari a noble way to die. 

I thought it was Harry Curry ?   

[Specmaster]

And the Japanese consider Hari Kari a noble way to die.  [emoji14] [emoji14] [emoji14] [emoji14]

I thought it was Harry Curry ?   

I'm quite sure that the meters must have been used to measure HV many times over the years.

From mobile device so predictive text might have struck again [emoji83]

[med6753]

The question was IF you had to, WHICH one would you go with? Also of course which probe belongs to which meter??

Now then it strikes me that both meters are made by well respected companies, both have japanese engineering so should be well engineered and tested to their rating provided of course that you take  adequate precautions and not standing in a pool of water etc  , so with that in mind both probes should be safe to use given the aforementioned factors. Obviously we all would much prefer to use something that was rated at 40Kv such as the B&K PR-28 with a safety factor of 8 times the 5Kv.

And the Japanese consider Hari Kari a noble way to die. 

OK, seriously...given what you show us I'd use the thicker probe (Left one). As far as which probe goes with what meter...don't know how I would determine that again given what you show us. Must be a trick question. 

[bd139]

Ok HP 6237B load test passed 

3 hours on full whack and it's barely even warm.

Miscalculated one resistor value slightly and it burned up nicely after about 20 minutes so bodged up some more.

[Specmaster]

The question was IF you had to, WHICH one would you go with? Also of course which probe belongs to which meter??

Now then it strikes me that both meters are made by well respected companies, both have japanese engineering so should be well engineered and tested to their rating provided of course that you take  adequate precautions and not standing in a pool of water etc  , so with that in mind both probes should be safe to use given the aforementioned factors. Obviously we all would much prefer to use something that was rated at 40Kv such as the B&K PR-28 with a safety factor of 8 times the 5Kv.

And the Japanese consider Hari Kari a noble way to die. 

OK, seriously...given what you show us I'd use the thicker probe (Left one). As far as which probe goes with what meter...don't know how I would determine that again given what you show us. Must be a trick question. 

Haha, I assure you its not a trick question, yes I'd agree if I HAD to use one of them, that would be the one that I would choose because in my mind it offers the better insulation between me and the HV.

The second part of the question was to see which brand of meter would you expect to have the perceived better insulation on their probe, I know which one it is but I was just curious to what other people thought, thats all.

[Specmaster]

Ok HP 6237B load test passed 

3 hours on full whack and it's barely even warm.

Miscalculated one resistor value slightly and it burned up nicely after about 20 minutes so bodged up some more.

That's good news indeed, so will a TTi unit be moving out soon or will you keep them, especially as they can supply 4 times what the 6237B can and of course now that you've solved the missing channel issue?

[bd139]

No idea yet. Time will tell. Might just chuck it back on ebay yet. I am merely nursing things back to health

[Specmaster]

No idea yet. Time will tell. Might just chuck it back on ebay yet. I am merely nursing things back to health

Yep, you're the equivalent to the NHS for all things TEA related when they are sick