In Other News..In Other News...
Looking like the resistance measurement issues with my 3478A are in fact F/R jack switch-related. Cleaning seemed to help; went from fluctuating between .6 ohms and .3 ohms shorted (using banana patch cords, not clips; these measure 0.09-0.1 ohm and 0.045-0.46 ohm on my Fluke 189 and DE-5000 respectively) down to fluctuating 0.22xx - 0.19xx ohms. After reviewing the schizzmatics, I discovered I could bypass 1/2 of the switch by swapping a couple leads at J107; that dropped shorted resistance to 0.116x - 0.1170 ohms.
Part of me is saying, as I know I'm likely going to really want the rear jacks about twice in my lifetime, that I should just bypass the switch completely and solder the front ports into service; it'll be more accurate and reliable anyways... meanwhile, the purist in me keeps trying to strangle that part. We'll see who wins after dinner.
mnem
"There's no rest for the wicked, but the virtuous have no pillows."
That switch was my first and only suspect for the cause and also the only part of the meter that is likely to be dormant for long periods. As such it would allow crud to be building up undected until someone activated the switch and allowed crud to migrate courtesy of the contact wiper which has some under its wiper. I'd give it another of contact cleaner and give it some beans while operating the switch remove that crud, also I'd try some pure alcohol on it, nothing to lose. [emoji38]
I've tried spraying contact cleaner in it three times; gently lifting up the top cover so I can spray inside. Last time I undid the metal stakes and removed the spring & ratchet so I could lift that end to spray inside. I'm considering to remove and immerse in alcohol while working back/forth as a last ditch effort before attempting to disassemble; it's almost as much work as disassembling though.
mnem
*Kindof buzzing on 4 hours sleep and 3 cups of coffee*
So, today the "Purist" in me won; I completely disassembled the F/R switch and gave it a proper enema, scrubbing its guts with a brush and alcohol and deluging it to flush out WTFE was causing the intermittent contact.
In all honesty, I couldn't see ANYTHING; everything looked like gorgeous, shiny gold-plate on both the wipers and the contacts inside... but when I put it all back together, it went from fluctuating wildly on the last 3 digits to stable with fluctuation only in the last digit, and Front/Rear jacks within a few ticks on the last decimal of each other.
The proof of the pudding certainly is, as they say, in the eating.
I intend to do a write-up on this with more pics when I have some more "me time"; for now, here's some pics which I hope will be mostly self-explanatory.
For those who're wondering, the scrub-brush I use here is called a disposable "mascara wand"; I use these and .22 cal rifle cleaning brushes to freshen up banana jacks on meter as well.
You can buy these ~30/$5 at Wally World, or ~100/$3 on AliEx, Banggood, etc.
USE A NEW ONE! Don't try to snurch one from the wife and clean it... you CANNOT Get it clean enough.
[EDIT 12/3/2018]
While sorting through pictures on my camera card from my 3478A resurrection project to archive the raw pics, I found this. I didn't see it while I was actually WORKING on the flaky F/R switch, but look what showed up in a couple of the shots left on the cutting room floor... this pic was taken immediately after removing the switch core from the body. Just goes to show you... sometimes what you find isn't as important as following through with the procedure anyways. A thorough, careful cleaning fixed this switch even though I missed the culprit while I was in there.
[/EDIT]mnem
*Time to get the kids*