Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Specmaster]

Well we're now at a another milestone, page 800 

[med6753]

With med being kind enough to furnish me with schematics for a better power supply i dug out a 8000A. I actually have two, the first is junk and the second one has quite the odd problem. The digits light up as intended however only one at a time, it cycles between them. Anyone have any ideas for this one?

Just to note, someone has been in it before me and if this turns into a project rather than an inquiry i will start a thread for it... just throwing that second point out there to be safe 

Actually I think that's the way it's supposed to work, but at a MUCH higher rate so it appears they are all on at the same time. Check TP5. There's supposed to be a pulse there. If it's missing there's your problem.

[mnementh]

DCCC! 

Well we're now at a another milestone, page 800 

Yup. This is where it all turns pear-shaped. 

mnem
*somewhat pear-shaped himself*

[med6753]

Not necessarily. Even a 1Hz square wave is fast when you consider it using fourier. I like this graphic as a demonstration which shows a square wave represented as many sines visually:



Look how mad the little one is going. That can go out quite happily to 10-100MHz on a breadboard. If you connect your breadboard 1Hz 555 to a spectrum analyser it will find edges out to about 30MHz. The 2-3pF capacitance between the tracks there turns into an unexpected 1.7k resistor approx. This can couple out of phase signals back into an unexpected part of your circuit. Next thing you know your oscillator is an FM transmitter (been there done that) 

I always looked at solderless breadboards as a antenna array you plug components into until an oscillator happens, then spend hours trying to uncouple said oscillator.   

About the only thing they're really good for is connecting crap to 0.100" spaced relays; anything faster than relay-relay logic and you're just begging for a loop. And yet, knowing this, I STILL have a dozen of the satanic little bastards in the back of my toolbox. 

mnem
DCCC! 

I guess I'm the odd man out. I don't own ANY breadboards. 

[med6753]

DCCC! 

Well we're now at a another milestone, page 800 

Yup. This is where it all turns pear-shaped. 

mnem
*somewhat pear-shaped himself*

Sez who? I predict we are going to recruit many new members to the Fraternal Order of Test Equipment Maniacs. (FOTEM) 

[mnementh]

I guess I'm the odd man out. I don't own ANY breadboards. 

med, you are an island. In downstate NY. 

mnem
Can't decide which one...

[mnementh]

Yup. This is where it all turns pear-shaped. 

mnem
*somewhat pear-shaped himself*

Sez who? I predict we are going to recruit many new members to the Fraternal Order of Test Equipment Maniacs. (FOTEM) 

I think I was more trying to convince myself that it hadn't ALREADY turned pear-shaped than actually putting a marker down for a datapoint... 

mnem
Welcome to FOTEM-Hut. Would you like flies widdat?

[tggzzz]

And, of course, there is a lot of bad advice out there, especially from people that haven't considered the school-level physics involved.

Most of the bad stuff is attributable to ARRL and people with callsigns.

If only it was that easy to identify bad advice!

However, it may be that many of them are hands-on - but lack the theoretical knowledge. There are too many like that in the software world as well

I think I'm going instate Victor Meldrew as my role model. (I also like Wally's nouse, but not his behaviour!)

For those that don't understand those references, google is your friend.

[tggzzz]

I always looked at solderless breadboards as a antenna array you plug components into until an oscillator happens, then spend hours trying to uncouple said oscillator.   

About the only thing they're really good for is connecting crap to 0.100" spaced relays; anything faster than relay-relay logic and you're just begging for a loop. And yet, knowing this, I STILL have a dozen of the satanic little bastards in the back of my toolbox. 

I'm sure you have a Widlarizer. You really should enjoy using it.

[grizewald]

I think I'm going instate Victor Meldrew as my role model. (I also like Wally's nouse, but not his behaviour!)

Reaching a "certain age" where you can actually be a grumpy old bugger without anyone expecting anything else is a moment of passage.

I've been a grumpy old man since long before I passed 50.

[mnementh]

Before I forget, some porns:

Outsides (pretty damn good condition!):      Insides with PSU cover removed (you can smell the telequipment engineers designed this):   

Did you get the RIFA(s) and the 1uf axial film cap hiding under the black plastic cover? They will come back to bite you in the arse...   That C907 (1uF/400V) and CR907 flyback diode are known for getting leaky with age due to their location in the pre-regulator/inverter section, and C907 is tucked right up against the back panel under the IEC socket. 

C904 (0.68/250V) across the poles of S901, C906 (75uF/400V) across the unregulated 155VDC, (yes it's labeled 145V, but stays right at 155 or so) and C925 (100uf/25V) across the 14.3V rail and C940 (1000uF/50V) across the 42.8V rail are known "dry death" offenders, and I found C908 (220pF/250V) from pin 10 of T906 to GND intermittently shorting when I first rebuilt mine. It would work , then suddenly get hot as blazes, then start working again. When desoldered it crumbled apart and you could see where it was arcing, even though there was no visible fault.

[EDIT] Woops... this is a 2235, not a 2230 like mine. Still, same basic PSU, only different part numbers, probably.
I recommend you identify and double-check those components anyways. [/EDIT]

   Just found some major OCD TEA: http://www.vacuumtubeaudio.info/project10.htm

Holy BLEEEP!ing BLEEEP!crackers, Batman! I just got a chance to go back and review that monument to Heath-nuttery!!!

That entire shelf array is HeathKit Gear that has been 100% restored, and new facepanels made so they all have the same HeathKit black text on white style instead of mixed with white and blue two-tone style. 

Definitely a case of idle hands being the Devil's workshop...

I always looked at solderless breadboards as a antenna array you plug components into until an oscillator happens, then spend hours trying to uncouple said oscillator.   

About the only thing they're really good for is connecting crap to 0.100" spaced relays; anything faster than relay-relay logic and you're just begging for a loop. And yet, knowing this, I STILL have a dozen of the satanic little bastards in the back of my toolbox. 

I'm sure you have a Widlarizer. You really should enjoy using it.

I have a small assortment, yes...    ...plus I keep this OTHER drawer for the REAL hardcases.    

mnem
Originator of the "JAOBFT Method" for Diagnosis, Repair & End-User Training*

* Judicuous Application Of Blunt-Force Trauma

[bd139]

Yep ones under the cover accounted for.

Literally everything electrolytic is being replaced and the film cap on the main board.

I prefer the cricket bat for widlarizing

https://youtu.be/e9x48vdLHos

[Specmaster]

And, of course, there is a lot of bad advice out there, especially from people that haven't considered the school-level physics involved.

Most of the bad stuff is attributable to ARRL and people with callsigns.

If only it was that easy to identify bad advice!

However, it may be that many of them are hands-on - but lack the theoretical knowledge. There are too many like that in the software world as well

I think I'm going instate Victor Meldrew as my role model. (I also like Wally's nouse, but not his behaviour!)

For those that don't understand those references, google is your friend.

I don't believe it

[mnementh]

mnem
'nuff sed.

[mnementh]

Only ten more...

mnem
There are 10 kinds of people... those who get binary, and the rest who habitually munt them with a brick.

[tggzzz]

Only ten more...

Think of it as musical chairs, and the band plays on...

[Specmaster]

Its that time of the year when I buy in bulk batteries for all the Christmas battery powered decorations and candles and I'm wondering if anyone has ever heard of or know anything about  Starmo AA LR6 MN15001.5V Alkaline Long Lasting Batteries at all?

I normally buy Industrial by Duracell batteries but they are getting a bit expensive these days and the Starmo ones are about half the price, and it making me question if they are worth the money or not by comparison?

[tautech]

Getting a great run from Panasonic Alkaline ATM. Reasonably priced and whipped the arse off Eveready of late.

[Specmaster]

The only Panasonic AA batteries I can find over here are Zinc Carbon ones with a expiry date of 2021 (half the price of the Industrial ones) but don't Zinc Carbon batteries have a low capacity and a tendency to leak?

[grizewald]

Oddly, the AA batteries from IKEA, for the price, are pretty good. I know the review is a little old, but if they still have the same price/performance ratio, they're a good option, particularly for the 'once a year' application.

See: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?409172-Test-Review-of-Ikea-AA&s=e4fdd28589d4459b53580cfec216c143&p=4750611&viewfull=1#post4750611

HKJ's site is a mine of information for battery enthusiasts! https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php

[med6753]

I think I'm going instate Victor Meldrew as my role model. (I also like Wally's nouse, but not his behaviour!)

Reaching a "certain age" where you can actually be a grumpy old bugger without anyone expecting anything else is a moment of passage.

I've been a grumpy old man since long before I passed 50.

You know, I wouldn't be half as grouchy or grumpy as I am if I didn't have to deal with a holes and if people would just leave me alone. I don't bother anybody but damn they sure do go out of their way to annoy me. Case in point. As I mentioned last week I moved one of my cars into the new garage. Currently there are no doors on the garage so you can clearly see the Honda Civic parked in there. (The doors will be installed in a few weeks). Now do you think that my fellow tenants would refrain from parking in front of it and blocking me in? Yea, right.
I was IN the garage last week putting some tools away and the kid from downstairs pulls right up to park. I had to tell him that he couldn't park there and block the car. He looked at me as if I had 2 heads. Incredible. And then Friday morning I come home from work and the knucklehead from the apartment across the street is blocking me in. It took the landlord to go knock on his door and wake his ass up to come out an move his car. So I asked the landlord if he had a problem if I got a "No Parking" sign. He said go for it. Done. So when I'm home I park my other car right in front of the garage. When I'm at work the no parking sign takes over. So far it's working. But I'm sure I'm going to run into someone else who has a comprehension issue.             

[Mr. Scram]

Oddly, the AA batteries from IKEA, for the price, are pretty good. I know the review is a little old, but if they still have the same price/performance ratio, they're a good option, particularly for the 'once a year' application.

See: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?409172-Test-Review-of-Ikea-AA&s=e4fdd28589d4459b53580cfec216c143&p=4750611&viewfull=1#post4750611

HKJ's site is a mine of information for battery enthusiasts! https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAcomparator.php

Ikea has these kinds of things manufactured by major players. The batteries used to be made by Varta. They're proper batteries for a good price.

[bd139]

Its that time of the year when I buy in bulk batteries for all the Christmas battery powered decorations and candles and I'm wondering if anyone has ever heard of or know anything about  Starmo AA LR6 MN15001.5V Alkaline Long Lasting Batteries at all?

I normally buy Industrial by Duracell batteries but they are getting a bit expensive these days and the Starmo ones are about half the price, and it making me question if they are worth the money or not by comparison?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CO00Y32/

GP Ultra 40 pack of AAs £9.99. Never had one leak. I have used probably 1000 cells over the years.

Also deliver some serious energy, right up there with the expensive industrial grade stuff (and better than Ikea!): http://www.batteryshowdown.com/static/images/mah_large_1000mA.png

[Brumby]

I guess I'm the odd man out. I don't own ANY breadboards. 

I have a some breadboards, but it's been a while since I used one for anything more than a couple of transistor switchers for some LEDs.


(Some one else can have the 10K 20K post ... I'm just happy to be around when it happens.)

[mnementh]

Its that time of the year when I buy in bulk batteries for all the Christmas battery powered decorations and candles and I'm wondering if anyone has ever heard of or know anything about  Starmo AA LR6 MN15001.5V Alkaline Long Lasting Batteries at all?

I normally buy Industrial by Duracell batteries but they are getting a bit expensive these days and the Starmo ones are about half the price, and it making me question if they are worth the money or not by comparison?

For XMas and TV remotes I buy the off-brand SurgePower or Sunbeam AA & AAA 4-packs from the local 99¢ Store. They're alkaline, have the same 10-year promise and useful life is within 5-10% of the name brands. I have yet to have one leak, so definitely good enough to give away. For some low-drain devices, I get the 8/10-packs of carbon-zinc.

Sunbeam are a Canadian importer of China-made batteries, SurgePower is a China-direct brand of AxisGroupGlobal allegedly based in California, but probably a front for a Russian drug cartel or somesuch monkey fuckery.     Like it matters anymore... they're probably all made in the same slave-labor camps factories as nEveReady, etc.

Most of my gear is powered by 18650 cells or those two sizes, aside from meters needing 9V which they only carry in carbon-zinc; and sometimes I'm feeling "Fuggit" enough I buy the 9V there anyways if they have the 2-pack in stock.

mnem
*Toddling off to take some cold medicine*

*~ w00t! 20K! ~*