UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

[analogix]

While I do not consider this meter safe by any means and would NEVER suggest anyone modify their meter in any way, it is now very robust!   If you want a nice robust meter, get Dave's little Brymen.  That meter even comes with a back light!

Actually, without the in-depth knowledge you and others here seem to have, I think I might just risk making the multimeter more unsafe by trying to modify it, and would rather not.
So in conclusion, would you say that the "Chinese" version of the UT61E is unsafe to use (it won't be used for higher voltages than household AC 230V) as it is, and if I want a safe UT61E I would have to go for the "European GS-marked" version?

Which Brymen model are you referring to and how does it compare to the UT61E?

[MosherIV]

as far as I know, none of the Chinese versions come with USB cables -but if I'm not mistaken the actual meter is the same, and it's just a matter of attaching a USB cable or serial cable, right? There's no actual "USB version" or "serial version" of the multimeter, is there?

Yes correct, the meter just outputs a serial stream. Then there is an optical infra red to seril or usb adapter.
I think all UT61E come with the infra red to serial adapter only.
Some chinese retailers MAY throw in a cheat IR to usb adapter but dont quote me on that.

So in conclusion, would you say that the "Chinese" version of the UT61E is unsafe to use (it won't be used for higher voltages than household AC 230V) as it is, and if I want a safe UT61E I would have to go for the "European GS-marked" version?

Basically correct. None of the chinese versions have enough protection circuitry to pass the GS safety tests (bear in mind the test may damage the meter, the idea of the test is to prove the meter will not injure)
They can measure high voltages and will PROBABLY NOT blow up. There is a chance that it will if there is a surge. Think about it like crossing the road, most of the time you will cross and nothing will happen BUT there may be the one occaision where you cross and get knocked down by a bus.

If you want a general purpose meter for all uses, including safe to use on high volts, yes look at another meter.
If you want a cheap meter with high resolution and accuracy AND only want to use it for low voltage (less than 50V) then the UT61E is the meter to get

[analogix]

Nice and clear summary! 
I will use it mainly for low voltage (less than 50V), but do need to check the occasional AC household voltage, and risking a shock because of a poorly made meter isn't too tempting.

Which alternative meter would you recommend with similar features to the UT61E?

[MosherIV]

Which alternative meter would you recommend with similar features to the UT61E?

Unfortunately, there nothing around with similar features in the same price range 

I think the next DMM with similar features will be one of the higher end Brymen meters, eg BM867

Then you are into Flukes and Keysights, Fluke 87 or Keysight U1272. These are very expensive !

Have you thought about getting 2 DMMs?
Then you can get the UT61E and another which is safe for mains eg Daves BM235
It is a good idea to have multiple meters, eg check strange readings with 2nd meter

[omgfire]

Which alternative meter would you recommend with similar features to the UT61E?

Unfortunately, there nothing around with similar features in the same price range 

I think the next DMM with similar features will be one of the higher end Brymen meters, eg BM867

Isn't DER EE DE-5203 pretty much UT61E done right for twice the price? Temperature, backlight, max-min, LPF.
https://www.deree.com.tw/de-5203-digital-multimeter-de-5203-rms.html
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/der-ee-de-5203-first-impressions/
http://www.pcstore.com.tw/adm/psearch.htm?store_k_word=REUtNTIwMw==&slt_k_option=1

[setq]

Isn't DER EE DE-5203 pretty much UT61E done right for twice the price? Temperature, backlight, max-min, LPF.

No. I use the frequency counter on my UT61E a lot. It's actually good to about 30MHz if you buffer it with something with some reverse isolation.

[omgfire]

No. I use the frequency counter on my UT61E a lot.

Oh, I missed that. Thanks.

[analogix]

Have you thought about getting 2 DMMs?
Then you can get the UT61E and another which is safe for mains eg Daves BM235
It is a good idea to have multiple meters, eg check strange readings with 2nd meter

Yes, that's certainly an option. Or a good and safety-approved "voltage tester" for the simple AC household voltage stuff (checking if a connection is live or not).
I do prefer having "all in one" type devices though (gear tends to pile up), so a multimeter with all the features I need including good safety specs would be ideal.

I had a look at Amprobe's offerings (AM-510, 520, 530, 540 etc.) again (from what I've heard they're the budget alternatives from Fluke) as I expect them to at least meet safety standards, but from what I've read in these forums they're a mixed bag, so I really don't know.

The big question is what kind of features am I looking for?
I'm not a very advanced electronics hobbyist ("intermediate" i would say) and besides the usual voltage/current/resistance/capacitance I need a good, responsive continuity tester, the ability to test LEDs and a frequency counter (not sure about the range though, but for audio and some digital electronics). It doesn't have to be super accurate (as in a voltage reading of e.g. 1.203785198 V), but hopefully not something that drifts too much within a year or too (I hear calibration is pretty expensive, not worth it for meters in this price range) and built well (I prefer paying a bit more for something that lasts than going for bargain basement stuff, but then again not pay a whole lot for features I don't need).

[MosherIV]

The big question is what kind of features am I looking for?
I'm not a very advanced electronics hobbyist ("intermediate" i would say) and besides the usual voltage/current/resistance/capacitance I need a good, responsive continuity tester, the ability to test LEDs and a frequency counter (not sure about the range though, but for audio and some digital electronics). It doesn't have to be super accurate (as in 1.203785198 V), but hopefully not something that drifts too much within a year or too (I hear calibration is pretty expensive, not worth it for meters in this price range) and built well (I prefer paying a bit more for something that lasts than going for bargain basement stuff, but then again not pay a whole lot for features I don't need).

If you only want 1 meter and it must have features, the Bryman B867 is probably the best fit though I do not know what freq range it has. I do not have any Bryman DMMs myself but everyone else in this forum speak highly of them.
It is 3/4 times the price of the UT61E. The appeal of the UT61E is the price verses the resolution and accuracy.

Write down what you are looking for in a DMM, rank them in order. This will help you decide which meter best fits your needs.

[Loboscope]

If you only want to check "simple AC household voltage stuff (checking if a connection is live or not)", you should use an UT61E (the GS-version) without risk. The "CAT"-categories will have a meaning* and with "simple AC household voltage stuff (checking if a connection is live or not)" you should stay completely in the CAT-III environment. But you should not test at the busbar and never at all behind it with the 61E!

But if you feel unsafe with the UT61E (GS), I could recommend the Benning-testers for electricians for testing mains. For example the more simple but very useful "Benning Dutest  050156" (but it is also only rated CAT-III 300V) or the more safe "Benning Duspol 050261" which is also not expensive but rated CAT-III 1000V / CAT-IV 600V. With a Duspol you can also test at the busbar.
Bennig Duspol is a kind of ´standard´-meter for electricians and all I can say is, that you can trust their CAT-safety-specifications.

*) A good description can be found here: http://www.metrel.si/dl?d=PDF_dokumentacija/White_papers/Ang/White_paper_Overvoltages_and_high_current_breakdowns.pdf

[analogix]

I'll only need to check if a household connection is live or not (max. 230V AC) and didn't even know what a busbar was until I looked it up 

I finally found a GS version of the UT61E which can be delivered to my country, by going to Reichelt in Germany. The total price will be around EUR 112/US$ 125 with shipping taxes etc., so not exactly cheap. But as has been said here earlier there really aren't any meters in this price range (or even quite a bit higher) with the same features and that the GS version as least should be a safe bet when it comes to household voltages, right?
I might just go for it if that's the case and I won't need a separate meter/probe for those instances when I need to check for a live AC household voltage.
Apparently even the Amprobe meters are quite similar to the Uni-T ones inside, but have poorer features including a slow continuity test response.

[joeqsmith]

While I do not consider this meter safe by any means and would NEVER suggest anyone modify their meter in any way, it is now very robust!   If you want a nice robust meter, get Dave's little Brymen.  That meter even comes with a back light!

Actually, without the in-depth knowledge you and others here seem to have, I think I might just risk making the multimeter more unsafe by trying to modify it, and would rather not.
So in conclusion, would you say that the "Chinese" version of the UT61E is unsafe to use (it won't be used for higher voltages than household AC 230V) as it is, and if I want a safe UT61E I would have to go for the "European GS-marked" version?

Which Brymen model are you referring to and how does it compare to the UT61E?

I would dare say that any time any of us make changes to a meter we have no idea how we effect the safety rating.   This includes me.

I would have liked to run the GS version but it was hard to find.  I assume that it is required to pass some sort of independent safety test to have the GS mark but I really don't know. I do doubt it would pass the EMC standards for ESD but that's not a safety requirement.   

I was referring to Dave's rebranded BM235.  If I were to pick between the Fluke 115, the HIOKI DT4253 and the BM235, I would go with the 235.  The cost is a wash and at least from the tests I ran, the 235 is electrically very robust.   

[snovotill]

New updated UT61E schematic is available at "ESI Service Info" website!
Get the CORRECTED version. It shows new protective circuitry, though SG1 does not show a voltage rating.
Oddly enough there are two components labelled SG4 and this corresponds with the silkscreen!
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/68103/UNI-T_UT61E.html

[WackyGerman]

I'll only need to check if a household connection is live or not (max. 230V AC) and didn't even know what a busbar was until I looked it up 

In this case it is better to use a voltage tester such like Benning Duspol Series or Fluke T Series . I would never ever use a multimeter even not my Metrahit 29 S or Agilent U1241 B . A voltage tester shows you if the circuit is live or not directly and not weird digits like on multimeters with high input resistance . The VDE rules pretends you to use a voltage tester on 0 V measurements here in Germany

[analogix]

The Benning Duspol series is quite expensive here, while the Fluke T-90 is a little lower, but still a bit costly for something I'll do quite seldom.

Interestingly Fluke also has a couple of "non-contact" voltage testers which are more affordable: the Fluke 2AC and Fluke LVD2 (see attached photos).
Are these suitable/safe for checking if mains power is on or off at an AC-outlet, a lamp socket etc?
Of course Uni-T also has a few contactless voltage testers, but if I'm aiming for safety it appears from all these postings that it would just be lucky guessing...
However, any of those voltage testers must be a million times safer than the mains testing neon lamp screwdriver I've used a few times. I just learnt that although it's legally sold it's very dangerous to use, so I'll be getting rid of it right away:
Youtube: Dangerous Device - Neon Mains Testing Screwdriver

[Loboscope]

I have a Fluke "1 AC-II Volt Alert" [http://www.fluke.com/fluke/dede/elektrische-messgerate/spannungsprufer/tester-fur-elektrotechnik/spannungsprufer/fluke-1ac-ii.htm?pid=56048] and it works fine, simple and reliable. Contcatless testing will always be safer for sure. But the range of the Fluke Volt Alerts will only begin at 90-200 Volt depending on the model so there could be a voltage of 80 Volt for example which will not be indicated but will also be dangerous!
But if the Voltage Alert will not indicate some voltage and you will have a reasonable suspicion there should be som -lower- voltage, you can take the UT61E for measuring this lower voltage. Voltages less than 90 Volt should be no problem for the UNI-T.

[analogix]

Ah! Thanks for pointing that out.
So in that case the Fluke T-series will also detect voltages lower than 80V and in some sense be safer than the contactless ones. I like "all in one" solutions, so perhaps a contactless one which also goes down to lower than 80V would be ideal. Maybe some of them have a sensitivity switch: if it doesn't detect anything above 80V for instance, a switch checking for lower voltages will allow another check before ensuring that there's no voltage present.
Many years ago I remember the German company Steinel made quality voltage testers. I see they're still around, and there are also similar (but different branded) testers with an LED for each voltage range (i.e. AC 12, 50, 110, 220V etc.). At least they check voltages lower than 80V but aren't contactless.

[WackyGerman]

Yes my Fluke T 150 measures from 6V to 690V AC and DC , also nice for 12 V halogen lamp jobs . The T 90 measures fro 12 V to 690 V . Alternatively you could buy the voltage tester Uni-T 15 C which costs roundabout 40 € , it also measures from 12 V to 690 V AC and DC

[analogix]

I will most likely save up a Fluke voltage tester of some sort the next time I need something like that. The contactless ones appear very handy and practical (and relatively affordable), but I'm put off by them not measuring below a certain relatively high voltage, so I might splurge and buy a Fluke T-90 (around € 55/US$ 60 here). Uni-T has their UT-18A (around € 38/US$ 42) and the contactless UT-11A (around € 14/US$ 15) but that would be kind of ironic when I'm not going to use a UT-61E for AC measuring because its questionable safety design. Too bad because their contactless UT-11A actually measures from AC 50V.

New updated UT61E schematic is available at "ESI Service Info" website!
Get the CORRECTED version. It shows new protective circuitry, though SG1 does not show a voltage rating.

I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I plan to buy the GS version of the UT-61E from Reichelt in Germany. They confirmed that indeed, they sell the GS approved type.
So how can I ensure I get the corrected version? Is it a matter of asking for one manufactured after a certain date or batch, or were they corrected several years ago so it's likely I get a corrected version anyway?

[Loboscope]

The "GS"-version must have the "GS"-label. You can see it here on the picture just above the "Hold"-button: http://www.pinsonne-elektronik.de/pi2/pd58.html
And it is also rated to a lower voltage and this is printed just beneath the connector-sockets. The picture on the reichelt-page indeed shows the wrong version. But I would trust reichelt if they confirm they will deliver the GS-version (but they should adjust the product page accordingly). I bought my UT-61E one month ago at pinsonne-elektronik and there was no problem, it is the GS-model as described.

[analogix]

Yes, they should indeed update the photo which doesn't show it to be GS-approved.
I contacted Reichelt and they replied saying that their version is GS-approved as shown in the German manual linked from their site.
I noticed that the specs on the Reichelt page says "Safety: Cat II 600 V, CAT III 300 V". I suppose these differ from the "Chinese" version.
I'd order it from Pinsonne if I could, but they don't deliver to Norway.

About getting the "Corrected" version of the UT-61E as pointed out by Snovotill: perhaps this only concerns the "Chinese" version as the "European" GS version is already safe (or should I say "a little safer"?) ?

[mac.6]

Hello All,

I have an UT-61E clone (voltcraft) that got its LCD screen broken. It seems still functional anyway.
Does anybody knows a spare part vendor?
It will be a pity to throw it away or recycle it as a datalogger...

[snovotill]

About getting the "Corrected" version of the UT-61E as pointed out by Snovotill: perhaps this only concerns the "Chinese" version as the "European" GS version is already safe (or should I say "a little safer"?) ?

The Chinese version is what I have and it has no MOV's installed in the "SGx" positions. Regarding the "uncorrected" schematic: it's just plain wrong so please ignore it and download the "corrected" one.

There are four MOV's installed in the GS version as per pictures in other posts, but the duplicate instance of SG4 above the COM jack is unpopulated and is a smaller part, so likely intended for a true spark gap.

SG2, SG3, and SG4 in the GS version have part number ZOV 07D-751K per photos in other posts and this decodes as follows:
 ZOV = Zinc Oxide Varistor (plain vanilla MOV)
 07D = 7mm diameter disk (so about 50 Joules)
 751 = 750V (so 460VAC or 615VDC max operating)
 K = 10% tolerance on the rated voltage spec.

HOWEVER there is no part number listed for SG1 on the schematic, so I wonder if someone with the GS version could kindly have a look inside their unit and report back to the forum with the part number for SG1 at left of the PCB. A close-up photo of the smiling MOV could be nice too .

Schematic reference: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/68103/UNI-T_UT61E.html

thanks
   

[joeqsmith]

A few higher res pictures of 61E after replacing both fuses, fuse holders, PTCs, adding MOVs, cutting the traces for adding the resistors, adding the adaptive backlight.

[joeqsmith]

 Also shown is the temperature compensation that I came up with after swapping all the parts in the reference circuit.  This was just a BAV199 and a 6.65K in series across C17.  Note that the original meter came with a tant and I had replaced with a ceramic.