Randmode on:
The title of the topic should be: What make DMM so cheap !!
Now you say a cheap meter is fine, so the more expensive are to expensive, while it is often the opposite. They make a design and then try to find everything that can not be left out. The thing must at least survive the first hours (you do not want to loose your ebay rating, will you ?) and then just let out the rest.
Let the marketing department make the specs with a lot of typicals in it, and put it in a nice colored giftbox.
End control, if there is any, is more to look if it does power up, indicating that probably not to many parts are forgotton to place in the meter. And solve some design faults with the shortest peace of wire .
Do you now why the cabinets are often screwed with parker srews or just clicked together ? That is only because ducktape is to expensive compared to the meter.
Good A-grade instruments are not to expensive, a lot of instruments today are just to cheap. (You get tears in your eyes from reading the specs ,as far as you can call that specs)
And why is lousy build, not accurate, stable and unsafe good enough for hobby use ? Is it not bad if a hobbyist is killed by an unsave meter ? Does a hobbyist not make stuff that needs accurate meters ? So expensive vacations, camara's, cars, stereo's, computers are also only for proffessionals. Spending more on Beer as your mulimeter is normal ?
For instance input protection, isolation of probes, a decent selected, A-grade and aged Voltage reference, precision resistors and shunts, precision high isolation low leakage relais, good quality pcb, good low leakage coating, some are even ultrasonic cleaned before mounting in a cabinet, (mu-metal) RF shielding, guarding, low seebeck metals and connections, Decent design regarding leakage, mechanical stress, seebeck etc, quality soldering, components that are not on the edge or beyond of the SOA, decent calibration and testing.
And for those who do not get it and only look at parts. I needed a precision 0.01% resistor for a repair. That was 34 euro, but an alternative that came very close to the original would have costed me 130 dollars (and there where 5 of those in that instrument, the manufacturer will get them cheaper but it will be still expensive, or what about a good precision low tempco 10A shunt (can be over 50 dollar) , or a decent Fuse, That shunt will be more expensive as many cheapo multimeter, an aged LM399 or LTZ1000 is more expensive as a cheap meter. The price from many precission parts is unkown because they are on contract and often handpicked and measured, or aged. And good low EMF solid mount bananabusses are also expensive, just like good probes that will not give problems within a few years or weeks like the thick plastic one strand toys.
I do not believe in bang for bucks and if it is cheap it must be good and the rest does not matter. We left that area long ago when cheap was often a bit simpler, less features, not so pretty looking but still not bad, still save and very usable. Today if we buy Chinese junk we say, it's real good, I had to make some mods that can kill me or the meter, but hey, it's cheap so its cool. It was cheap so who cares it blows up in your face, it's cheap so who cares it's 100% off at low battery level. It's cheap so who cares the probe resistance is variable around 10 Ohm,It has a very fast beeper and the rest is not important.
Or: There was a tear down of this meter, It was the first meter the teardown guy owned and he's in to electronics for two weeks now, so it must be good, he measured a 9V battery and the meter showed 9V, isn't that awsom. He even measured 110V and it did not explode in his hands so it must be save. It was on you tube so it must be tru, It was cheap and I want to think it is good, so I believe everything. It beeps fast so it must be good, it does not wobble on its stand, what more do you want ? We have a winner....
But why do I even care....