Hope there will be no more self post deletions, and you know what will happened if you delete the 1st post right ?
LENS protection / thermal window material
A question was asked in another thread regarding thermally transmissive 'window' materials.
FLIR disposable lens protectors for thermal cameras use the 12 or 25 micron shrink wrap plastic called Polyolefin, that is commonly found as the WRAPPER on CD cases.
I bought a large roll of the plastic very cheaply. IIRC around GBP5 for 1mx20m.
Additional info added:
I purchased 25 micron Polyolefin from the following company and it works very well. I just tried a piece in front of my E4 and the camera sees through it fine.
Bee Beautiful .....www.beebeautiful.org.uk (http://www.beebeautiful.org.uk)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mtrs-Polyolefin-Shrink-Wrap-Film-25-micron-450mm-/350800488552?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item51ad56a868#ht_1387wt_1018 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mtrs-Polyolefin-Shrink-Wrap-Film-25-micron-450mm-/350800488552?pt=UK_Packaging_Materials&hash=item51ad56a868#ht_1387wt_1018)
Serial Number recorded against calibration date and firmware
Serial Number Calibration Date Firmware
6390 27xx 20 Sep 1.17.7 Note: Hardware Version is E4 1.0
6390 2xxx 20 Sep 1.18.7
6390 3xxx ? 1.18.7
6390 3xxx 30 Sep ?
6390 3xxx 30 Sep 1.18.8
6390 3xxx 01 Oct 1.18.8
6390 37xx 02 Oct 1.18.7
6390 3xxx 03 Oct 1.18.7
6390 48xx 25 Oct 1.18.8
6390 5xxx 23 Oct 1.18.8
6390 5xxx 28 Oct 1.18.8
6390 5xxx 28 Oct 1.19.8
6390 55xx 30 Oct 1.19.8
6390 63xx 07 Nov 1.19.8
6390 65xx 09 Nov 1.19.8
6390 6xxx 13 Nov 1.19.8
6390 ? 19 Nov 1.19.8
6390 ? 22 Nov 1.19.8
6890 77xx 22 Nov 1.19.8
6390 7xxx 25 Nov 1.19.8
6390 84xx 28 Nov 1.19.8
6390 86xx 29 Nov 1.19.8
6390 89xx 03 Dec 1.19.8 Note: Version E4 V1.1 hardware - CONFIRMED
6390 9xxx 04 Dec 1.19.8 E4 V1.1
As can be seen, there are four Firmware versions known to exist
1.17.7
1.18.7
1.18.8
1.19.8
A Fifth Firmware is rumoured to exist (1.20.3) but this has not been independently verified.
Update: As the report of a 'countermeasured' fimware 1.20.3 is now old, and 1.19.8 is still being deployed by the factory as at2529 Nov, the report must be considered bogus. A possible Trolling attempt on the part of a michievious person.
It would appear that the latest confirmed Firmware Version, 1.19.8, was released on 28 October 2013 if the calibration date is used as the date reference. 1.19.8 is not available to download from FLIR at the time of writing.
I will continue to update this list as and when new details are submitted by owners.
UPDATE 11 Dec 13
It is now confirmed that two E4 versions exist. E4 V1.0 and E4 V1.1. The differences have yet to be identified and investigated. Both versions are currently using the 1.19.8 firmware and remain open to user 'enhancement'. (as at 03 Dec 2013)
Just to add my E4 (8) that I just received today 12/13...
Sn 6309 76xx E4 1.0 cal date 11/12/13
Hiya Junktronix,
Would you be the same Junktronix who sells some lovely Laser equipment on e*ay ?
If so, your shop looks wonderful....full of temptation for me :scared:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ssn=junktronix&_sop=15&rt=nc (http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ssn=junktronix&_sop=15&rt=nc)
I am tempted by the small Germanium lenses :)
I can understand why the frame rate of the camera is limited due to military/security/other restrictions... and support the limitation's reason completely.
BUT why 9 fps? What is so magical about 9 fps vs. 10/5/20/etc. fps.?
How was this determined?
Just curious as to the strange number.
@Bovvy,Fairly unlikely you'd be stopped on the way out, but wouldn't hurt to have a printed copy of the appropriate classification & regs on you. Maybe also either ditch the outer box or put a label conveniently over the "product subject to export controls"
If I were in your position, I would buy the E4 in the USA from a Bona-Fide supplier. You WILL have support available from FLIR as their warranty is worldwide when purchased from an authorised dealer. The E4 is subject to ITAR in so far as taking it to a prohibited destination. If you are buying in the USA and personally carrying it to the United Kingdom, you ARE NOT breaching ITAR regulations. The UK is in NATO and an Allie of the USA. The E4 DOES NOT require an export licence. You need to provide the dealer with your name and address only. This forms a record of the sale to you in case of a need to track how it got to, say Iran ;) Its a bit like buying a TV in the UK where the shop requires your details so that they can send them to the Agency managing the licence fee >:(
You are totally legal so worry not. Your issue will be whether you declare the purchase on entry to the UK. I must recommend that you do as that is the UK law but I know many do not. Bear in mind that the E4 comes in a nice case but that makes it quite large....you can't hide it down your trousers ;D The E4 attracts around 3.5% Duty and 20% VAT on import to the UK.
Hope this helps.
HHmmm... that makes sense taking missile speed/distance into account and the distance traveled over time.... but one determining factor for speed over time is the distance from target as well..... looks like alot of thought went into the 9fps number and not, for instance, 10 fps.I can understand why the frame rate of the camera is limited due to military/security/other restrictions... and support the limitation's reason completely.
BUT why 9 fps? What is so magical about 9 fps vs. 10/5/20/etc. fps.?
How was this determined?
Just curious as to the strange number.
I guess they did the math on realtime missile tracking of moving targets and it showed tracking with 9fps as impossible.
BUT why 9 fps? What is so magical about 9 fps
Ref 9fps...... It also relates to technical countermeasures but for obvious reasons I will say no more.Thanks for you input and the detailed post in this thread... I do NOT expect you to divulge any more info that would get you in hot water... it isn't worth it!
Extra battery / 12v charging cable...meh...Filled out and sent in the paperwork for the freebie inspection camera (ExTech BR80) on Jan 8, 2014.
I've got a box with a couple of good sized LiPo's in it, a 5v regulator, and 4 USB ports for charging...whatever...
But, I don't have a borescope :)
External Charger disassembly & detail
I have disassembled my FLIR E4 external charger to establish the quality of the design.
The rubber coated case is held together with a single screw under the ID label at the bottom of the charger. The base is a combination of metal and rubber. Construction is good and looks like it will last. The soldering is not the best I have seen and the excess flux has not been removed from the manually soldered micro USB connector. The unit is made in Malaysia.
I can advise that it is a standard 3 contact (NTC) Li-Ion charger design as will be seen below:
The main components contained within the charger are as follows (along with the common ID where known)
1. 1L4001 = Linear LTC4001 Battery management IC. 2A charger with Timer & NTC sense input.
2. MNAB ZC5 = T.I. LMC555 - Yes the venerable 555 (CMOS version).
3. UL46 = USBLC6-4 TVS diode array for USB2.
4. PZ = Not known but possibly BZB84-B33 Zener diodes
5. G3A = Diode
The data sheet for the charge manager (LTC4001) is attached. This details all that is needed to build your own charger, or to understand the FLIR design. The battery contains only an NTC thermistor of value 10K Ohms. No other 'management' is contained in the battery pack. It will have a protection circuit for the cell though.
The input connector for power is the same awful micro USB type as on the Ex, but at least it does not need to be unplugged often. A micro USB car charger may be used to produce a car charging pod for those on the move. The LTC4001 is tolerant of current limited power supplies.
For those wondering, the 555 timer just provides the low frequency drive to make the blue LEDs flash during charging.
Note the charging contacts. They look like they belong on a Canon Li-Ion battery charger. It may be possible to convert such a charger with relative ease but it may need its protection timer adjusted to take account of the Ex battery capacity.
The metal moulding in the bottom of the charger is a heat dissipator plate that is sinking heat from the LTC4001 via the PCB ground-plane. Not the most efficient design but it does not get very warm so appears adequate.
Lens materials and Close-up lenses
I recommend that a ZnSe Bi-convex lens is purchased for the purpose. These lenses are available cheaply from China and are made for the CO2 laser cutter market....
I purchased my lenses from here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZnSe-GaAs-Focal-Lens-for-10-6um-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutting-Machine-12-25mm-1-4-/321078811086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4ac1c9d9ce (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZnSe-GaAs-Focal-Lens-for-10-6um-Co2-Laser-Engraver-Cutting-Machine-12-25mm-1-4-/321078811086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4ac1c9d9ce)
UPDATE: Georges80 has produced the STL files for 3D printing a lens holder to the E4.
My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
My lens adapters are also ABS and there are two ways that the ZnSe lens may be held in place. Some users secure it with a thin bead on NON ACIDIC adhesive. Acid cure glues are a no-no with ZnSe ! Others have used a soldering iron to slightly melt the edges of the lens holder to create 'claws' like those used to retain gems in jewellery.With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.
3d printers aren't "precision" instruments :)
So, you will get different results with different printers (and/or phase of the moon). Remember that the lens holder I designed was to specifically handle the lens I had on hand (via ebay) AND to be printed with the makerbot at work. I tweaked things to make it fit nicely - but no guarantee that all prints from my files will create a 'perfect' fit...
My main goal was a good friction fit in the E4 and to play it safe with the lens opening so that worse case a touch with a soldering iron would fix the lens in place. Since I printed with PLA it is easy to melt the plastic with a soldering iron that is only at 70 - 80C.
cheers,
george.
Close-up lens - Bi-Convex Vs Plano-Convex
@Sparky,
I am no expert in optics but can offer some comment....
I used georges80 file and had it printed by LuneValley3D in UK.With the 3D printed lens holder designs you can find on this forum, there is no need to fix the lens.
The Chinese CO2 laser cutter lenses you can get from ebay just clip in nicely and firmly, so no risk of glue damage.
Hmmm...this is not the case for me. I used georges80 design, with 20mm diameter lens (from the Chinese eBay seller), and the lens is a loose fit --- no clip in; the lens will drop straight out.
What design lens holder and diameter lens did you use?
Jeez...$36 for 15 cents worth of ABS. If anybody wants some E4 lens holders, I'll print them for you. We'll put the price at $5 + shipping. Have your choice of color between black, white, red and green, which is what I have right now.
Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.To my knowledge the only way to do the menu mod is via RNDIS. Follow these instructions, and you should be good to go: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426)
Do I have to uninstall the mod? Can anyone point me in the right direction or post directions. I don't want the rndis update. I just want the different color pallets, zoom and what ever else I can get without extensive hacking.To my knowledge the only way to do the menu mod is via RNDIS. Follow these instructions, and you should be good to go: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg366426/#msg366426)
Worked fine for me, just note that it won't work in Windows 8.1 (didn't for me anyway), had to use Windows 7.
I would presume that there is an on-die temperature sensor as well as the frame temp sensor
Hey guys I need some help.You also need the menu hack to enable zoom.
I did the standard E4 Hack from mikes post. I used the zip e4hack3c modified the text zipped it and used flir tools to put it on the camera. I did not do rndis, I'm worried I would brick it if I tried. In my e4 config I have this line:
.caps.config.image.zoom.enabled bool true <- shouldn't this enable zoom?
Is there a way to get zoom out of this camera with out doing the rndis hack because I have already performed the other one.
Thanks guys.
Hi all,From memory I'm fairly sure power pin is definitely a short to ground, the others are probably a matrix - the 6 remaining pins are probably either 2x4 or 3x3 for the 7 other buttons.
i need to give my E4 a new, much smaller "case". I follwed mike's teardown video, but i need a new button plate because the original one is embedded into back case, which is hard to unmount. I'm looking to reproduce signals in the flat cable, which has 8 pins (actually, there are 8 "buttons" on the plate, including 4-direction joystick).
I'm not an electronic guy, but i think they simply close a circuit over a common ground but, after a continuity test, i found only 2 pins shorting while pressing buttons.
Any help/info to find out pinout?
....
Should be easy enough to map out with a meter.
Note that if doing something more ambitious that just re-casing, you can emulate button presses via the serial console or via the TELNET console (not sure if this exists on FW 1.2x+)
here's what i found:
7+8 = ON/OFF
2+6 = Back
1+6 = PLAY
3+6 = JOY(Center)
4+5 = JOY(Right)
3+5 = JOY(Left)
4+6 = JOY(Down)
2+5 = JOY(Up)
Note: pins are 1 to 8 are like in the picture:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | |
5 | ??? | UP | LEFT | RIGHT |
6 | PLAY | BACK | CENTRE | DOWN |
Battery Charging options for the FLIR Ex series
I also looked for camera batteries of similar design in the hope of modifying a cheaper camera battery charger. The vital information that I was lacking related to the charge management IC that the FLIR battery uses. Using another brand of charger without ensuring management circuit compatibility is risky.
RGB palette file | YCrCb (camera) palette file |
ISOTERM1 | Isotherm 1 |
ISOTERM2 | Isotherm 2 |
MARKER | not used |
RESERVED1 | Underflow |
RESERVED2 | Overflow |
UNDERFLOW | Below |
OVERFLOW | Above |
Hi all I have already asked Marphy about this.....I have carried out his upgrade (resolution and menu) and it is great generally – thanks to all concerned. Sometimes however, when I switch the camera on the system either stalls (flir screen – not flir special edition screen) or presents me with an error window (I can’t remember what the error says). I then have to pull the battery out wait a while and start it up again. I am not sure whether I should be concerned with this instability or not. Any others have experience of this?I've seen this very occaisonally
Any recommendations for 3d printing in the US?
External Charger disassembly & detail
I have disassembled my FLIR E4 external charger to establish the quality of the design.
The rubber coated case is held together with a single screw under the ID label at the bottom of the charger. The base is a combination of metal and rubber. Construction is good and looks like it will last. The soldering is not the best I have seen and the excess flux has not been removed from the manually soldered micro USB connector. The unit is made in Malaysia.
I can advise that it is a standard 3 contact (NTC) Li-Ion charger design as will be seen below:
The main components contained within the charger are as follows (along with the common ID where known)
1. 1L4001 = Linear LTC4001 Battery management IC. 2A charger with Timer & NTC sense input.
2. MNAB ZC5 = T.I. LMC555 - Yes the venerable 555 (CMOS version).
3. UL46 = USBLC6-4 TVS diode array for USB2.
4. PZ = Not known but possibly BZB84-B33 Zener diodes
5. G3A = Diode
The data sheet for the charge manager (LTC4001) is attached. This details all that is needed to build your own charger, or to understand the FLIR design. The battery contains only an NTC thermistor of value 10K Ohms. No other 'management' is contained in the battery pack. It will have a protection circuit for the cell though.
The input connector for power is the same awful micro USB type as on the Ex, but at least it does not need to be unplugged often. A micro USB car charger may be used to produce a car charging pod for those on the move. The LTC4001 is tolerant of current limited power supplies.
For those wondering, the 555 timer just provides the low frequency drive to make the blue LEDs flash during charging.
Note the charging contacts. They look like they belong on a Canon Li-Ion battery charger. It may be possible to convert such a charger with relative ease but it may need its protection timer adjusted to take account of the Ex battery capacity.
The metal moulding in the bottom of the charger is a heat dissipator plate that is sinking heat from the LTC4001 via the PCB ground-plane. Not the most efficient design but it does not get very warm so appears adequate.