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Boring Mundane Everyday Print #200: Bicycle Chainring Guard Part 2   


Here's the part straight off the printer; the supports stuck better than the part due to small feet, and everything came away just this clean. The top side looks even better; while prepping it this way did add ~2.5 hours to the print, obviously it does make a big difference in the top surface. :-+

The first pic is actually closer to the real color; it is much darker than it appears in these photos, and matches the color of the bike itself to within a shade or two.


Here we are with the part on the bike; even using the original screws. You'd think this was made for the bike or something.  :-DD

Designing this part was actually less hassle than the spoke protector disc; either I'm getting better at Frustion360 or the work lent itself to the way I think aboot making stuff.  :-//

The only real hassle was figuring out what the bolt circle actually is; fortunately, there's a website right here with both the maths needed and a handy chart:

This is the dream (when it works ;)) of 3DP fulfilled; need a part, make a part. I've spent aboot CAD$30 fixing this old bike up so it could be ridden; the repair parts made for it saved me aboot $25.

Being able to make the battery pack for the headlight (the black thing on the side of the handlebar stem) saved me another $25 over anything even remotely comparable in quality, plus it allowed me to add a switch where even on the "premium" model one had to unplug the wire every time you quit. ::)

ride.  >:D

Canis Dirus Leidy:
Homemade filament made of old polycarbonate lampshades:


This is probably my most time-consuming 3DP project yet; completely reworking the guts of my UltraSabers lightsaber to fix all the cut corners it came with, and upgrade to 18650 power source with BMS and charging circuit. Original Obsidian e-gyro controller only does sound and lighting effects and used 14500 cells in a battery holder.  ::)

First up was several iterations before I came up with a workable design for the battery pack. Ultimately I went with a split assembly as this allowed me to completely encapsulate the 18650 cells & BMS PCB. Cells are staggered to allow as much room as possible for wiring from one end of the hilt to the other.

Here I've bonded the Obsidian controller PCB to the battery pack with a blob of good ol' silly-cone RTV sealant. This is roughly how it will reside in the hilt; the space behind the pack is where the LED ballast PCB and speaker go. The space forward of it are where the power switch and emitter module go.

There's a space of aboot 50mm right in the middle which is all the space available for the switch and excess wiring to scrunch up when this is assembled. This problem is a major part of why it took several days of tinkering in my off-time to get everything figured out. :scared:

In the middle of all this came some R&D work. I wanted to replace the original ballast resistors with some CC LED driver PCBs I found online; however after multiple test scenarios, they proved not durable enough mechanically or electrically for the abuse intended. I eventually abandoned this testing after smoking a couple LED emitters and half-dozen CC driver boards. I am toying with the idea of mixing up my own 3-ch CC LED driver PCB to fit in this space; I might follow through with that if I find a chipset that actually handles the abuse under testing. :-//

When I first got my saber, I changed the color to a deep royal purple to match my generally lawful neutral alignment; getting that requires mixing red & blue at drive current levels determined by trial/error. On top of that there is another channel for "flash on clash" functionality in the sound/light controller PCB, so I use all 3 elements in this one. As I had already done the headache work with the ballast resistors, ultimately I returned to that arrangement when the CC LED drivers proved inadequate.

Here is the ballast PCB, LED emitter module and battery pack before adding the charge circuitry; I've covered the LED wires with Kapton tape to make it act as a ribbon cable, and to add a layer of protection against pinch damage. Yes, they are made of multi-strand Cat5 cable; I use what works, and it has the right mix of flex and just enough rigidity to push back into place rather than bunch up as the parts are assembled in the hilt.

One of these days I'll get this 10W LED emitter on the left working. These require a completely different emitter housing and collimator lens; also aboot 4x as much VA power source so will take a lot more finagling, and will absolutely require a working CC driver array to fit in a usable-sized hilt. Future plans... :o

Component density is pretty high for a fabricobbledy project. The sub-board plugs into the controller via a short pigtail of Dupont connectors...

...and the LED channels are broken out into another row of Dupont connectors facing back towards the front of the hilt. There's a Schottky diode in there so that we don't have sparks if something shorts the charge port, and the ugly soldering is to ensure the heavy resistors are anchored to multiple vias in the perfboard so they stay put under heavy impact from mock combat. :-+

Before you ask, yes I've repaired the potting over that inductor with a fresh layer of epoxy. It's just not really visible here. ;)

Here I've designed and printed the speaker bracket and the charge port; they go together in layer cake fashion...

...with the charge port poking up like a smokestack.

Once I add the pommel ring, it looks a lot better. The battery, speaker and charge port layer cake required an additional 3mm clearance overall; I was able to gain that by printing up the random-looking spacer ring in the first pic. Once sealed up, the entire insides of the thing becomes a resonating chamber for the little speaker; the difference in sound is amazing once you tighten the pommel ring down. In this case, that perfboard PCB actually works in my favor.  ;D

And here's the money shot; this lightsaber has e-gyro controller with flash-on-clash, motion sound effects, fully-programmable sound library, 18650 power source with more than 2X the power density of original, and charge/BMS circuitry the original design never even thought of. As a bonus, it works perfectly with the 8.4V charger I already have for my bicycle headlight.

Printed on my CReality CR-6SE in XINGTONGZHILIAN Brand Black PLA, 0.16LH, 60mm/s, 200°C/60°C Bed, no adhesion, Supports enabled/touching buildplate, infill set manually to 1mm grid, 1.2mm wall/top/bottom thickness, with combing & bridging mode enabled and part rotated to benefit bridging; otherwise all Cura defaults. Total time: Fuck if I know... :o

And my son is more excited aboot it than I am... :-DD


Today's Project: A23 Battery Holder Shell and Sleeve for Cheap RF Active Probe

Recently I purchased a cheap FET probe based on this article from ELEKTOR and  discussed here on eevBlog; all the boring details of that adventure, with pics of the final product in use are in these threads:

Thinking myself pretty clever, I contrived to design a shell for it which includes a holder for A23 car remote battery while it was on its way to me; however, testing once I had it in hand showed that the ~20mA current draw of the device does suck that battery down pretty quick.  :o

However, the probe is still quite usable with this battery, which is readily and cheaply available at Dollarama and Amazon, and the integrated design makes it mucho convenient for occasional use, especially with the outer sleeve to protect delicate pogo pins.

I ordered from the above link for aboot $20 delivered; I bought the probe and a 300mm soldered-shield RG174 SMA cable recommended by the designer, 60dbm. The eBay listing still shows his old design, which is green PCB and does not have the gimmick cap as per the original Elektor article; this is what arrived.

I figured that since I have no intention of ever putting this away with a battery in it, a switch was just an invitation to be stoopit and do so anyways; so decided to apply KISS principle and make popping the battery in/out super-easy. I thought I was quite clever when it popped right in and held in place with the (+) peg in a cup in the battery contact exactly as intended. The 3DP part is made with a matching indentation to make this possible.

Several iterations took me to the current design which revolves around an A23 cell; as part of that I added  this delicious emerald green LED which made a very usable gas gauge with considerable difference between ~7V (the VReg's cutout voltage) and 12.5V as measured on a brammy new battery. Additional current draw was only 100uA at 12.5V applied, right down to ~40uA at 6-7V. :-+

Adding it was dead-easy with a 0603 resistor and some creative soldering. :-+ Here you can also see how I leveraged the mass of the SMA connector to serve as anchor for the batt (-) spring.

Here I've printed up the last parts and made a battery terminal to match; you can also see the little dimple I designed into the side of the shell as a window for the LED.

And here it is in the storage sleeve.

ZIP package below includes both STL and .F3D files so you can you can conveniently print directly as-is or remix as needed.

This fits the new, blue version of this probe/PCB as shown above pretty snugly. PCB dimensions are 9mm W x 1.6mm thick exactly; approx 57mm long not including the SMA connector. I don't know if it will fit the old green version; the cutouts for that cap and diode in the battery compartment are specific to the blue one.

Printed on my CReality CR-6SE in FlashForge Brand Blue PLA, 0.16LH, 60mm/s, 200°C/60°C Bed, no adhesion, Supports enabled/touching buildplate, infill set manually to 1mm grid, 1.2mm wall/top/bottom thickness, with combing & bridging mode enabled and part rotated to benefit bridging; otherwise all Cura defaults.

Protection sleeve printed with 3mm BRIM adhesion as part was printed vertical orientation; supports enabled everywhere for battery compartment.  Body takes approx 25 min, inner cover approx 10 min, protection sleeve approx 2 hours.   



--- Quote from: mnementh on August 09, 2021, 05:15:32 pm ---ZIP package below includes both STL and .F3D files so you can you can conveniently print directly as-is or remix as needed.

--- End quote ---

Thanks for posting that.  I asked a few hours ago in the Hi-Z probe thread if you could share the files.   :-+

I think mine may be the green version (purchased 2018), so I'll check and if needed modify and post an updated F3D (with your permission).
It won't happen in the next few days though, as I'm WFH (Sydney lockdown) and all my RF gear and 3D printers are at the office.


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