Set aside a few hours after you have it set up and properly calibrate / level the thing, auto-leveling is a bit of a crutch,I strongly agree with this point (and the rest of @Rerouter's post), but I'd modify it slightly to say:
as my recent acquisition CR-10S gets in the groove maybe it is time for either a dedicated thread on 3D printers and using them for Techie (non skull and statues ::) ) uses? I got mine for Cases, mounts and similar uses rather than decorative too.A forum for 3D printing and CNC would be a good idea. Who else agrees?
The MK3 auto levels when starting a print. Some other printers like the CR-10s can be upgraded to do the same.You don't really need it.
Nearly 17 Hours and 84% into a print - LEVEL SHIFT |OThat's the proper 3d printing experience.
Pub O'Clock :popcorn:
+1 for Prusa i3 MK3, since changing to this printer from Makerfarm i3v I have to say printing is a breeze.In my experience you only need to mess around with levelling for that long when you just start out. After a few prints you simply tweak the level when the printer is laying down the brim.
The MK3 has an auto bed leveling function before you start each print so all you have to do is slice your model and hit go, rather than fluff around for 10-20min making sure your 1st layer is good enough to continue.
All this mention of glue sticks made me realise what's on the build bed of my Flashforge, now I need to work out how to get rid of the stuff.
If it is the usual cheap PVA glue, just wash it off with water. That glue is water soluble. If it is an old residue, let it soak for a few minutes and then use a normal Scotch-Brite kitchen sponge - it cleans right off.
If it is the usual cheap PVA glue, just wash it off with water. That glue is water soluble. If it is an old residue, let it soak for a few minutes and then use a normal Scotch-Brite kitchen sponge - it cleans right off.
I think it was glue stick or maybe PVA (I'm not sure that's water soluble when cured?) Two minutes under a tap with a srubbing brush and it's all gone, lovely clean blue printing bed now and the first print of the day is about to start to see if it sticks.
- CR-10, mostly stock. Only change I made to it as I mentioned was the large autoleveling knobs and some zip ties to hold the PSU from falling since it's by the edge of my desk. Two upgrades I am looking to make are the new Noctua fan for the PSU and the autoleveling mod.The Noctua fans are highly overrated for that application. Something much cheaper like a Cooler Master fan would work at least as well and you won't be able to tell the difference since the stepper motors are what make the most noise.
Thanks for linking to those videos branadic. I'm considering an Anycubic Photon at the moment.
As I tend to make structural rather than decorative pieces, how easy is it to get accurate dimensions? I saw 7.1% shrinkage mentioned for one resin. That can't be right - it would be almost unusable.
You're right of course. But I like Noctua and have been using them on all my gear for years. The fan in question isn't that expensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)- CR-10, mostly stock. Only change I made to it as I mentioned was the large autoleveling knobs and some zip ties to hold the PSU from falling since it's by the edge of my desk. Two upgrades I am looking to make are the new Noctua fan for the PSU and the autoleveling mod.The Noctua fans are highly overrated for that application. Something much cheaper like a Cooler Master fan would work at least as well and you won't be able to tell the difference since the stepper motors are what make the most noise.
The cheap white glue sticks (UHU and similar) for gluing paper and similar are all PVA-based glues. All water soluble. Some are even marketed as "washable". It is the same stuff as "Elmer's glue".
PVA is even used as a water-soluble support material for 3D printing - instead of laboriously removing the support material (and risking damage to the print) you let it soak and then wash it out.
Well it came off nicely when I scrubbed it (fairly gently) under the tap, you're right PVA is water soluble, I really thought it wasn't, tried a few prints, some lifted, some stuck, no immediately obvious pattern so I gave it a second scrub with IPA and now things seem to be sticking to the bed nicely.
I've ordered a pack of replacement 'blue' stuff for the bed, precut squares, so I've got spares but I don't think it wears out?
Thanks for linking to those videos branadic. I'm considering an Anycubic Photon at the moment.
As I tend to make structural rather than decorative pieces, how easy is it to get accurate dimensions? I saw 7.1% shrinkage mentioned for one resin. That can't be right - it would be almost unusable.
Can't answer for the moment as we found out that our z-axis is misaligned in almost each direction. We need to fix this issue first, before I can make any statement on shrinkage und dimensional accuracy/mismatch. You won't see this issue when printing figures, but if you go into functional parts you see every imperfection that happened during assembly of the printer.
I wonder that noone else out there documented this issue before.
-branadic-
The cheap white glue sticks (UHU and similar) for gluing paper and similar are all PVA-based glues. All water soluble. Some are even marketed as "washable". It is the same stuff as "Elmer's glue".
PVA is even used as a water-soluble support material for 3D printing - instead of laboriously removing the support material (and risking damage to the print) you let it soak and then wash it out.
Well it came off nicely when I scrubbed it (fairly gently) under the tap, you're right PVA is water soluble, I really thought it wasn't, tried a few prints, some lifted, some stuck, no immediately obvious pattern so I gave it a second scrub with IPA and now things seem to be sticking to the bed nicely.
I've ordered a pack of replacement 'blue' stuff for the bed, precut squares, so I've got spares but I don't think it wears out?
Thanks for linking to those videos branadic. I'm considering an Anycubic Photon at the moment.
As I tend to make structural rather than decorative pieces, how easy is it to get accurate dimensions? I saw 7.1% shrinkage mentioned for one resin. That can't be right - it would be almost unusable.
Our after-sales engineers will provide you with solutions within 1 working day
print this file on your Anycubic Photon
I kinda want to get a 3D printer but have not done much research yet. I use Linux and I imagine most of them probably require Windows.
The 3D CAD does take some getting your head around. The last 'formal' training I had on CAD was about 30 years ago HP Mini computer system and very very early version of Autocad :palm:
When you start getting the hang of it simple bits like those diffusers were 10-15 minutes of cad time and I have done a bunch of simple mechanical bushes and knobs for various jobs. The Fusion 360 'Revolve' command makes these really simple. :-+
Draw the profile of the bush/knob/widget, revolve and add some fillets on the corners.
I'm a little torn on the Ender 3. MakersMuse did not seem to have a favorable review. I mean he recommended it, but just about every print he showed had flaws and he had to replace the feed system to get it to work at all. The RC life on guy showed it perform beautifully out of the box, and a couple others were OK. I just could not watch Naomi's unboxing (she's been back online for a while now, I guess).
Anyway, gearbest had a good $169 price, but have no stock and there is at least a hundred unit backlog/wait list for the US plug - that's cheap enough I won't care much how it does, if I have to just toss it, etc.
After a few days use I am less pleased with the Creality Ender 3. It failed. Dead power supply. On opening up found a surge limiting thermister had violently let the smoke out. I have not yet determined the value so repair is on standby. I went ahead and did a network buy of a replacement unit (under $20 shipped). But in the meantime I pulled out one of my linear boat anchor supplies to power up the machine. Works great and has a built in current meter. Which shows that during bed heating this puppy draws 30 amps. Which is an issue since the supplied power box is rated at 15A. No wonder it blew.
Apparently they are getting away with this overload because the initial heating phase only lasts a couple of minutes. After that the average power draw is down in the couple of amp range. Some large number of them must be surviving for at least a few months.
That is the current at 24 volts. Not the current from the mains.
I'm thinking the supplier might have accidentally sent a 12V version.I was thinking that as well.
I contracted a 3D illness this weekend and was watching videos covering some popular models, such as CR-10 and Tevo Little Monster. Are they worth considering yet?
The CR-10 almost always has good reviews, the Tevo was a bit mixed, but I kind of like the build of that one.
Any thoughts or suggestions? It's not something for which I have a direct need, just an interest, and it would mostly be for functional / somewhat structural parts, to complement my metal machine shop.
And to add, I really have no insight into the nuances of 3D printing, such as the types of heads, software workflows, etc. - just what I gleaned from an afternoon on youtube...
Still going back and forth with GearBest on warranty for my Creality Ender 3. They appear to be giving me the rope a dope treatment. "Thanks for your contact. We will get back to you within two business days." Repeat when questioned on status.
I have been coming up the learning curve on FreeCAD and am pretty happy at the moment. There are some quirks that may be unique to the Windows implementation on numeric entry (can't enter numbers from numeric keypad, but can from number keys - can't enter fractional numbers for scaling until existing zero pad is erased and similar things), but so far most of the problems have been getting me up to speed on solid modelling terminology and methods. I am looking forward to trying the Electrostatic and Fluids solvers in the FEM module once I get over the initial hump.
Numeric pad? Works for me. Do you have numlock active, otherwise it'll just function as cursor keys.
Fortunately both my sons are studying mech eng, so I just ask one of them to create the 3D models (they use solidworks) for me :) Though I really need to get proficient at it myself...
cheers,
george.
@ beanflying
You can print as much samples as you want, but this printer remains a simple sausage printer for me with poor quality of the parts and bad ecological fingerprint as it is a source of micro plastic. Sorry, but had to say that.
-branadic-
I'm still having mountain ranges. My last print I wanted to complete so heated the scraper and "ironed" them down during the print. Once they start they just seem to grow, but only and consistently in the same places. I've tried temps and lower seemed to help a bit, like 195, but then I'd have more adhesion problems. I tried lowering extrusion and that helped a bit, but then under-extruded in other places and adhesion problems. The mountains start on the first few layers where there is solid fill. Once I ironed them down the print usually gets into a partial fill and will be fine.
You shouldn't be getting plastic between the s/steel barrel and the nozzle or near the threads. There are some very good videos on youtube about removing and reinstalling nozzles and setting the heat break correctly but the basis of it is to adjust the heat break so it mates flush with the back of the nozzle when tight. So install the nozzle back out a 1/4 turn then snug the barrel down reassemble then tighten the nozzle in lastly. If you don't do this you can get plugs of plastic stuck in this area which causes all sorts of extrusion or lack of issues.
Interesting test on Breakdown Voltages of thin PLA shims. The Video is VERY LONG but the basics of it show single layer 0.2mm (single layer) breakdown about 10kV. Maybe not something to use as a reference for commercial production but good for confidence on your own projects.
No last name isn't Wong ;) .
Kerry Wong, deserves way more followers than he has but the style can be a little hard for people to enjoy I guess. Plenty of good content on all sorts of Electronics.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1TtnT24NS1v12Si2qstYZA (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1TtnT24NS1v12Si2qstYZA)
Currently printing up a couple of these; I acquired a much newer Sony BluRay for the LR, and it's a little bit thicker than my old one. These will go under the back feet of my DTS receiver to match the height so it can sit on top of the BluRay player. Old-school passive-cooled Pioneer from the "transition to DVD" period; too much heat from the top vents to have anything covering them.
I'll show y'all some pics of the finished application in the morning when they're done. ;D
mnem
:=\
Following this thread is going to get me into so much trouble....
About the best deal on an Ender Pro from Creality themselves with a 'free' roll of black PLA is here eBay auction: #143029694885@ $352 AUD (so printer circa $330).
About the best deal on an Ender Pro from Creality themselves with a 'free' roll of black PLA is here eBay auction: #143029694885
I have an Ender 3 pro. I dont think I would want a printer with bigger build volume, unless it prints a lot faster. The only annoying thing about it is the bed levelling, ...
TMC drivers are definitely in the line-up for my own build.
32bit MCU? Seems a bit ahead of the curve, but it's not something I would ignore. While I'm not against getting my hands dirty on the processor side, I'm not inclined to dive too deeply. This is not a development area for me - just one where I would expect a reasonably modest amount of configuration.
And off the printer overnight. Fingers are more than up to the job, could be made a lot lighter but it's only about 22m of filament so leaving it as is and stronger than needed.Good call, hang a few IEC leads on them and their strength will be appreciated.
I suspect ABS is going for cheap because of its disadvantages - needs heated chamber and unhealthy fumes being the main ones. PETG has largely replaced it.
I like the idea of dust protection - and the environmental temperature stability. That gives me more confidence to try ABS and PETG. I like more durable items.
One of the first I'm likely to try for is the screw block for the clip of the sun visor in my car. That needs some tolerance to heat.
... but I'm getting ahead of myself.
Let me 'assist' you further just because I am that sort of guy :-DD Good value filament here @hobbyking (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/2019-cyber-september/workbench/3d-printing.html?utm_campaign=62163_Standard%3A+3D+Printer+Highlight++8%2F10%2F2019&utm_medium=email&utm_source=Hextronik+Limited&dm_i=4SQP%2C1BYR%2C9SGQY%2C3TMM%2C1&___store=en_us)
A single 0.4mm brass MK10 nozzle from Bilby3D is $14.95 plus $12 delivery - but on eBay I can get 5 such nozzles and 2 cleaning tools from Hong Kong for $2.99 delivered.
There has to be a difference - but what is it?
A single 0.4mm brass MK10 nozzle from Bilby3D is $14.95 plus $12 delivery - but on eBay I can get 5 such nozzles and 2 cleaning tools from Hong Kong for $2.99 delivered.
There has to be a difference - but what is it?
I probably should have included a yellow.
Make sure you park your head/table in random spots or move them periodically if not printing for a while.
What I did do was pick up some (cheap brass) MK10 nozzles that came with some cleaning tools. They came today, but I'm not sure about the nozzles. The I.D. looks too big when compared to the nozzles that came with the machine.
.... I wonder if this statement in the listing covers my issue:
"The measurement allowed error is +/- 1-3cm." ::)
That seems like a reasonable observation. The ID of my original nozzles is about 2.0mm and the new acquisitions are about 4.0mm.
Just checked the listing - and there is no mention of filament size at all.
Will message the Seller.
You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.
You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.
Nope, see above. There are no "3mm filament nozzles". Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle size.
You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.
Nope, see above. There are no "3mm filament nozzles". Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle size.
Maker's Muse
28 minutes ago
Hey all, I have some GOOD news regarding my recent video on the Tronxy D01.
After hammering home just how serious the issue was, they have been very quick to roll out new firmware for the D01 and I am told other machines as well. They also informed me that machines still in the factory will be updated, I hope this is indeed the case.
While this does not excuse the shipping of machines without Thermal Runaway Protection to users, I am happy that they are now taking this seriously. The machine updates via micro SD and the whole process is completed without user intervention in under a minute. I will be putting a video together to discuss this further, show you how to update your machines and invite all owners of Tronxy 3D Printers to seek out updated firmware as I don't believe TRP was ever implemented.
It was a stressful process and I wish a video like that wasn't the only way to make this actually happen, but overall I'd call that a win.
Happy printing!
Angus
Just adding this here as well as it getting lost in the TEA thread.
Lisence Agreement - Use it hack it is all good but sell it for $ and I will hunt you down and do nasty things to you with a bit of filament >:D
STL is in the zip file.
Slots are 7mm wide so it should take most cables. 203mm wide so it will fit on the smaller beds and more screw holes than needed.
There is also creality CR-X 2 colors.
Dont forget 2 heads = double power usage.
No, then what is ?
No, then what is ?
The heated bed, usually..
So far it looks like an unnecessary yet another tool to fiddle with (most probably at each print), and periodically clean the dust off of it. Also fumes (used inside), and buzzing stepper noises for hours, not to say the risk of it catching fire when left to print unsupervised.
Does it all worth? Does a filament 3D printer justify itself once you have it?
So far it looks like an unnecessary yet another tool to fiddle with (most probably at each print), and periodically clean the dust off of it. Also fumes (used inside), and buzzing stepper noises for hours, not to say the risk of it catching fire when left to print unsupervised.
Does it all worth? Does a filament 3D printer justify itself once you have it?
You're really the only one that can say, it's one of those "inner self" things - if you don't have the fire-in-the-belly to go after it, I wouldn't bother either because there will be frustrations. There is fiddling and time learning and failed prints and background noise - all that is true. But for the most part it does work.
Like all of us, If you want to justify not doing it, then you will find a way to do that. If you want to justify doing it, then same answer. Good luck on your decision. :popcorn:
Does a filament 3D printer justify itself once you have it?
You're really the only one that can say
Noooo! Not the answer I was looking for. Was waiting for an enthusiastic "Yes, absolutely! Anybody should have at least one!". ;D
Yes, absolutely! Anybody should have at least one!
Does it all worth? Does a filament 3D printer justify itself once you have it?It depends. For example, this guy uses a printer to create shell moulds (https://3dtoday.ru/blogs/gammer/kak-kyrkovat-doma-i-pro-koshku-kotoruyu-ne-umeyut-gotovit). More convenient than messing with wax.
I have figured out what temperature my Creality Borosilicate surface releases at it releases at Aussie Summer -10C :phew: Six small prints for the day and each one meant take the bed off each time and shove it in the fridge to release then take it out wipe dry and clean with IPA and do it all again |O
Not sure what others have found but it is somewhere in the high 20's C and no way above 30 to get it to release.
Have you tried one of these? I find they work very well, prints just pop off with little force when they cool down. I haven't used my BS or glass mirror tiles since getting this.
With Spring steel how do the magnets stand up long term if you want to run ABS bed temperatures?
I got this prusa and upgraded it to the latest revision but these hobby level printers seem incredibly limited in real world usefulness.
... hobby level printers ...Do you notice the distance between these two options...? It's like the difference between a hand operated pan brake and a 100 ton hydraulic press.
... commercial machine ...
3D printing projectile weapons is getting big in USA and it seems that a machine like this would put you head and shoulders above anyone doing it with a hobby machine.Projectile weapons? That's a worry (to me, at least) - but, yes, you should expect a commercial machine to be far more capable - even if more expensive to acquire, operate and maintain.
... hobby level printers ...
... commercial machine ...
Do you notice the distance between these two options...? It's like the difference between a hand operated pan brake and a 100 ton hydraulic press.
Don't grumble when you get a wheelbarrow and it doesn't perform like a dump truck.
Projectile weapons? That's a worry (to me, at least) - but, yes, you should expect a commercial machine to be far more capable - even if more expensive to acquire, operate and maintain.
What does "engineering grade" mean? Engineering is the art of achieving goals with available materials and processes. I make wrenches, structural joints and other parts using a hobby grade 3D printer. You just have to be aware of material limitations. And realize that one tool doesn't fit all applications and some applications are just out of reach for some tools.
There has been much hype about 3D printed projectile weapons, but the reality is not really more worrisome than the decades old zip gun made with pipes, piano wire and scrap.
Really? You get a Prusa and then start referring to machines in the $5000 range? You really need to compare apples with apples.... hobby level printers ...
... commercial machine ...
Do you notice the distance between these two options...? It's like the difference between a hand operated pan brake and a 100 ton hydraulic press.
Don't grumble when you get a wheelbarrow and it doesn't perform like a dump truck.
I really don't see that much of a difference if you consider what people are paying for higher end hobby printers vs. the used prices on the commercial machines - It looks to me like you can get a "commercial" grade machine that may need some repair for under $5,000 USD easily.
:palm: Typical.QuoteProjectile weapons? That's a worry (to me, at least) - but, yes, you should expect a commercial machine to be far more capable - even if more expensive to acquire, operate and maintain.
It isn't a worry in the USA due to the number of weapons steadily climbing towards 1 billion already, as well as easy availability over the southern borders for stuff not normally sold in USA. For other countries with more tyrannical rules on self defense and weapons, I can understand how it would be a worry for the bureaucrats but it's really only a good thing for the freedom minded. Imagine this scenario: Someone is breaking into my house! Oh no! *prints weapon before murderer makes it through the door* (I know, this is a silly situation, but would make for a funny short film :D
You need to understand the process - the considerations, limitations, environment, materials ... and a whole lot more before you start getting 'angry' that the technology doesn't do what you want.What does "engineering grade" mean? Engineering is the art of achieving goals with available materials and processes. I make wrenches, structural joints and other parts using a hobby grade 3D printer. You just have to be aware of material limitations. And realize that one tool doesn't fit all applications and some applications are just out of reach for some tools.
There has been much hype about 3D printed projectile weapons, but the reality is not really more worrisome than the decades old zip gun made with pipes, piano wire and scrap.
To me it's material vs. dimensional stability and repeatability. It really doesn't look like you can print a lot of the more exotic materials without a heated chamber, or rather, you can't print them w/o a heated chamber if you care about the dimensional stability/repeatability. Also layer bonding for some of them.
I'm not an expert in any way,That is clear.
I am learning about thisAs am I.
and deciding if I want to get a commercial grade machine.From what I have read so far, you have quite a way to go before you will be able to make an informed decision - but stick to it. Get familiar with making your Prusa do what it is capable of and go from there. Baby steps, or you might find yourself getting totally exasperated (rather than just annoyingly frustrated).
The 3D printed weapons aren't hype, these new glass and carbon filled exotic materials are pretty amazing, people just aren't talking about these efforts online much since it tends to trigger(lol!!!) the bureaucrats. I think we'll see some exciting developments in coming years, it may become very close to the new Lost In Space series (which I higly recommend watching!!!)Yes, the materials science that is emerging around 3D printing is fascinating - but these exotic materials sometimes require special considerations, special processes or both to be used.
Danger, Will Robinson, danger!
............. completely ignore my comment on the core subject matter of your posting.... the capabilities of 3D printers.Quote
I don't understand... You said it worried you and I said not to worry.... Sorry?......................QuoteI'm not an expert in any way,That is clear.
Ok so now you're just being nasty and that isn't helpful at all......QuoteI am learning about thisAs am I.
Then why are you even attempting to offer advice?Quoteand deciding if I want to get a commercial grade machine.From what I have read so far, you have quite a way to go before you will be able to make an informed decision - but stick to it. Get familiar with making your Prusa do what it is capable of and go from there. Baby steps, or you might find yourself getting totally exasperated (rather than just annoyingly frustrated).
It just seems like you wanted to make a post and picked me as your innocent victim :-//
It just seems like you wanted to make a post and picked me as your innocent victim :-//
You are hardly an Innocent and stop being a dick with multiple accounts already :palm: Your original account must be nearly unbanned by now.
I am just wondering if anyone on here has acquired a used/broken/etc commercial grade printer and what their experience has been, with powering it, with using it, with repairing it? There seem to be a lot of them out there, and if there is anyone on here doing engineering grade work then there must be someone who has something like this?
QuoteI am learning about thisAs am I.
Then why are you even attempting to offer advice?
More toys to play with for the Ender - a Bigtreetech TFT35-E3 touch screen display ($35) and a new control board Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 v1.2 32 bit with TMC 2209 silent stepper drivers ($37). Will be installing in the next few days.
Trinamic silent stepper technology -
So hows you 'budget' $1k Ender 3 actually doing :-DD
Wonder how many days of printing and how many kg of filament :o
Gratuitous shot of my currently virginal Shellac and Waxed polished bench from a page or so back to use with [the bench dogs].Looks nice! But, did you apply shellac to the dog holes? I would, if I were you.
But maybe a test one on some MDF with a single pull through of Shellac but I think the bore would then need to be denibbed as the Shellac will tend to make the fuzzy bits hard requiring the bore to be sanded I suspect :-//Whatever you end up doing, please do keep us informed. I personally avoid MDF because of its tendency to bulge when any moisture gets inside, and the possible glue fumes that may slowly release creeps me out. (Already had formaldehyde poisoning as a kid due to that from particle board.)
... for making a larger format Laser.
To be honest, I'm looking at this as a motion system - with the possibility of being able to run a 3D printing extruder on it.
Maybe a tool-changing arrangement..... ?
Big ideas ..... small budget. ;D
Just over a 1/4 sheet so clearance on 1200x600. 80-100W is the current plan. Based on this Kiwi design with some tweaks https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ72zDm2feverqV7qAbNH7Q/videos (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ72zDm2feverqV7qAbNH7Q/videos) The Fusion 360 Plans and materials lists are well worth the few $Yes, I've followed this build and when I start to gain traction, I will most likely pull his files as a starting point.
It has been tried commercially in one form or another. Unless you want prints running for a week then nozzles in the multiple mm diameter with fat layer lines to match :-// I think going back to other options first would make more sense unless you like the layered thing.The time element is not lost on me, but sometimes big and chunky layers aren't necessarily an evil. I had considered doing large, low profile prints ... nothing specific mind you. I just like the ability to maximise utility of such a motion system.
It doesn't get any real direct UV exposure but under load it is subject to Ambient temps regularly 30-40+C.
Well-rated on Amazon; EVERYBODY seems to hate EVERYTHING not ENDER on Amazon :-//
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07X5TZ7J8/
This should keep me off the streets & out of trouble for a day or three. With the authorities closing events and shops left & right due to the global COVID charlie-foxtrot, the wife is ALREADY ready to break my foot off in my own ass... All 3 of her children have been driving her batty for a week now. :palm:
Selling points:
Cheap as chips, PLUS $40 off; PRIME delivery
32-bit Board, Trinamic 2208s, 4.3" Touchscreen
Glass upgraded, heated bed w/oversized knibberty-knobs
Proper IEC Power
EOF Sensor, Print Resume Marlin FW
Well-rated on Amazon; EVERYBODY seems to hate EVERYTHING not ENDER on Amazon :-//
Kit form, and probably a POS... so should keep me busy for a while fixing all the little "stoopit shit" things. :palm:
I toyed with getting this franchise-builder Ender 3: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P68LDLG/ (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P68LDLG/) but wasn't convinced it was all CREALITY quality. I'll probably regret it...
mnem
Good thing I have a Dremel... :-/O
Well-rated on Amazon; EVERYBODY seems to hate EVERYTHING not ENDER on Amazon :-//
Yea, but that thing isn't an Ender ... :-DD
It'll probably be OK if the aluminum was cut accurately. Keep a fire extinguisher handy and keep us informed. :popcorn:
Got some nice features for the price. :-+ With the two fairly independent side beams I would double check and shim if needed whatever desk or bench you finish up using it on to make sure all four feet are co-planer otherwise we await the results. Welcome back to the world of 3DP. ;)
I've got a CNC dual-gear-drive extruder (supposedly the schizz for NinjaFlex, etc) on the way, along with a V6 hotend/SS tube and some silicone hotend socks. When I get a little further on the project, I'll post some more pics. :-+
When new firmware is released where can we find them? I haven't been able to find a website for this printer
Answer:
This printer is a rebadged Alfawise U30 Pro/Longer LK4 Pro, and it is running modded Marlin 1.1.9. In Cura the Alphawise U30 dropdown works perfect. Looking up information under Longer LK4 Pro seems more available.
That is a truly wicked test print mnementh! I can't imagine how you get those 90 degree overhangs to work (apparently without printing support). I have found it easier to design those overhangs out of prints than to make them work.
Try this one mnementh. :popcorn:
(Attachment Link)
Here's what came off my printer. I did re-size the object because I didn't want to wait 14 hours for a 0.1mm resolution print. It's sized down 50%, so the small print is not clear, but the rest looks pretty good.Looks like there are some improvements to be had. What printer is that?
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
What printer is that?
Some good ideas in this one from Angus for those still learning there way around Fusion 360 and 3D printed limits :-+
I made this plate today. It isn't for anything specific but just for play. I might be "getting" it, at least for simple things.
(Attachment Link)
:-+ stick at it.
Rather than use the Hole function I find generally drawing the circles on a sketch easier. In the case of your design you could also then use the Circular pattern feature so draw one then add the three others with it. In your initial sketch this same method can also be used to copy one of the square arms into the four of them too. So your initial sketch would be one circle and three lines for one arm patterned into four then add the centre square.
Doing this there is no need to make the hole later as you never actually extrude it when doing the extrudes for the body.
:-+ stick at it.
Rather than use the Hole function I find generally drawing the circles on a sketch easier. In the case of your design you could also then use the Circular pattern feature so draw one then add the three others with it. In your initial sketch this same method can also be used to copy one of the square arms into the four of them too. So your initial sketch would be one circle and three lines for one arm patterned into four then add the centre square.
Doing this there is no need to make the hole later as you never actually extrude it when doing the extrudes for the body.
Thanks. There are so many ways to do things in that program. I think that's what the intimidating thing was. I kinda basically froze after starting because I didn't understand the steps and there were so many menu choices. For whatever reason, the one video series I found yesterday seemed to get me over the hump.
Right now I don't see why I couldn't make anything I've already made in Tinkercad in Fusion 360. Yay. :)
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?I'm on linux so free CAD options are limited, thus I do everything with OpenSCAD. But I also recommend OpenSCAD for everyone new to CAD in general too, even if you have Windows. The learning curve is short, mainly just the scripting syntax, and the limited basic built-in elements is actually better IMHO when you are starting out. Learning the basics of how to take cylinders, cubes, etc and intersect/difference them to create more complex designs is much easier when you don't have a million and one menu choices, or have to click here, there, and everywhere in a specific order with different tool pallets in order to create basic objects. Just from the videos from the posts above, you have to click a bunch of places with a bunch of tool pallets to accomplish the same thing as "cube([myX,myY,myZ]);".
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?
Bought a prusa 3 for my younger son that is at college, 3rd yr of mech eng. He is using it for fun, but also to make models/jigs etc for the suspension of their formula sae vehicle. This is done with solidworks.
I can send him solidworks files and he can then slice them etc and print them for me. When he visits (about 90 miles away) he brings the printed models to me.
I wanted an inline switch for powerpole cables. I use powerpole in my 4wd and various things plug in. Many have their own switch, but the pump I use to transfer water from tanks/wells to the bladder in my 4wd doesn't. So, designed up a small box that takes a powerpole pair at each end and runs the +12 through the inline switch. The switch is lit when 'on', so easy to tell what is going on.
Here's a render of the design. Has the slots to key with the powerpoles and also the hole for the roll pin to lock each end in place. Turned out quite functional.
...
cheers,
george.
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?I'm on linux so free CAD options are limited, thus I do everything with OpenSCAD. But I also recommend OpenSCAD for everyone new to CAD in general too, even if you have Windows.
SNIP
That said, due to poor final rendering performance for high facet counts ($fn > 180), I've started looking elsewhere. I'm a bit daunted by the learning curve for Blender... Has anyone used Blender for CAD work specifically for 3D printing parts and such (not modelling figures/etc)? Or other software with linux support?
Fusion 360 with some Linux pain can be done so don't necessarily dismiss it from your options. https://all3dp.com/2/fusion-360-for-linux-how-to-install-it/
I made this plate today. It isn't for anything specific but just for play. I might be "getting" it, at least for simple things.
(Attachment Link)
Spent a few minutes over a coffee with your model and just for to flesh out some of the concepts I mentioned (pre coffee still in bed so I forgot there would be two circles to copy ;) ) ** One thing to watch out for is make sure all the lines on your model turn black meaning they are fully dimensioned in space or you will likely break the model later. On my sketch I have used the symmetry constraint from the guidelines to make the dimensioning more simple.
Take the five elements that form the arm and do the circular pattern thing on them.
Combined all fillets but still grouped them to allow easy changing of them independent of each other.
Note the tighter timeline too which will help you find things on more complex models later.
So give it a bash your end and try the same basic model using the different options until you find your happy place. :)
I like to use POV-Ray (http://povray.org/), too. It has slightly different syntax, but very similar approach; both OpenSCAD and POV-Ray are based on a script language defining constructive solid geometry. There are some tools one can use to convert OpenSCAD to POV-Ray, if you want much better rendering quality.
FreeCAD is another choice. Has some nice features. Linux compatible. Biggest drawback I have found is largest files for a given model around. A good part of that can be controlled by how you model.Thanks, I'll try those out.
Right now, for example, I'm using it to play with different ways of doing a box enclosure for my 3D printer. I'm actually thinking of making the box from 20×40mm box section, with the Y and Z rails (8mm round bar) directly anchored to the enclosure. It is useful, because I can make the measurements parametric, and play with specific sizes and how it'd look in practice. (I don't have any welding equipment, and the local Hacklab is closed for now.)Very cool. I've been making a bunch of simpler parts/brackets/cases/whatnot for different projects. So far the most "practical for more than myself" thing I've designed from scratch is a shop vac hose adapter for a fixed base wood router, all OpenSCAD. When I eventually get around to it, hopefully v2.0 of the adapter won't need a zip tie. ;)
"[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]"[attach=1]
Well if your little attachment is a invalid... should we get it a wee wheelchair...?Yes please. With one of those little bell things on the handlebars. Plus maybe a horn. |O
Bought a prusa 3 for my younger son that is at college, 3rd yr of mech eng.
...
cheers,
george.
Good solid looking model :) If the delay ever gets to be a bug then the solution is simple add a Prusa Mini to your place as well 8)
Well if your little attachment is a invalid... should we get it a wee wheelchair...?(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=957174;image) Yes please. With one of those little bell things on the handlebars. Plus maybe a horn. |O
...right now I'm trying to talk myself out of rebuilding the hotend with my kit of V6 parts, since I just found out the silicone socks I got with are NOT "close enough" to go on the Mk8 hotend.
Bought a prusa 3 for my younger son that is at college, 3rd yr of mech eng.
...
cheers,
george.
Good solid looking model :) If the delay ever gets to be a bug then the solution is simple add a Prusa Mini to your place as well 8)
Well... the reason I bought it for 'him' was that my wife had already vetoed buying it for me. So, it was bought 'on the quiet' and shipped directly to him (out of town college). Since it was for 'him' it was 'ok'...
The veto is still in place :)
cheers,
george.
Bought a prusa 3 for my younger son that is at college, 3rd yr of mech eng.
...
cheers,
george.
Good solid looking model :) If the delay ever gets to be a bug then the solution is simple add a Prusa Mini to your place as well 8)
Well... the reason I bought it for 'him' was that my wife had already vetoed buying it for me. So, it was bought 'on the quiet' and shipped directly to him (out of town college). Since it was for 'him' it was 'ok'...
The veto is still in place :)
cheers,
george.
Quote from: mnementh...right now I'm trying to talk myself out of rebuilding the hotend with my kit of V6 parts, since I just found out the silicone socks I got with are NOT "close enough" to go on the Mk8 hotend.
I actually got lucky and was able to re-use the heater & thermistor from the Mk8 hotend; and I already knew I'd have to reuse the throat. It all went back together ~0.10mm shorter tip height than the original; not bad for a "hybrid" build. :-+ Now the thing heats up like BAM! and it's ready for to coexist with the PetsFang. 8)
mnem
Giggity!
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?
I found it very difficult to do actual figures. The next step was to use SolidPython, that improved things, but not much. Things I missed: you can't get sizes and boundary boxes for shapes, there is no way to automatically align shapes, it's hard to make complex shapes such as threads (what is one click in, say autocad, can take me forever in openscad), performance was deserving more. My toolkit was solidpython + jypiter notebook + some plugin to render shapes.
...
Have you tried using Blender?
Have you tried using Blender?
Yes, and I wasn't happy. I design purely engineering things (enclosures, etc) and I need features like precise sizing, shaping, aligning, library of components, etc. It felt that blender is just a wrong tool for it. It's not a CAD.
I also didn't get far with it, I think I got confused a few times and gave up on it. I asked around what people use, fusion 360 is very common, but I wasn't able to run it on my system. Also, I wanted to try designspark, didn't run either. So, probably, I'll end up with a windows vm.
...I'll let it finish a few more bridges before I stop it; but think I wanna get that blower nozzle so it's not blowing so much right at the bed.
mnem
"Lazy dwagon... BAD!!! Bad lazy dwagon!!!"
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=957880;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=957904;image)
Hmmm... Some stringing in the first layers I didn't have before. Dunno if that's the new hotend or because I decided to angle the layer fan for clearance instead of lowering the printhead.
I'll let it finish a few more bridges before I stop it; but think I wanna get that blower nozzle so it's not blowing so much right at the bed.
mnem
"Lazy dwagon... BAD!!! Bad lazy dwagon!!!"
Have you given this a try on your Linux Box and Fusion 360? https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/msg2982186/#msg2982186 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/msg2982186/#msg2982186)
Am I the only one who prefers to do parts and mechanisms in OpenSCAD?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=957880;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=957904;image) Hmmm... Some stringing in the first layers I didn't have before. Dunno if that's the new hotend or because I decided to angle the layer fan for clearance instead of lowering the printhead.I'll let it finish a few more bridges before I stop it; but think I wanna get that blower nozzle so it's not blowing so much right at the bed.The other thing to do would be add some Capricorn https://www.captubes.com/ (https://www.captubes.com/) It helped my reduce the retraction needed on my CR10 and Enders.
mnem
"Lazy dwagon... BAD!!! Bad lazy dwagon!!!"
For openscad lovers, I wonder what you think of SolveSpace. Looks like an interesting tool: it's a visual design tool, but it work very interestingly: size of shapes are constrained/parametrized by dimensions. So, this way it's sort of best of two worlds: it's parametric (sort of), and visual. Before jumping into it a youtube tutorial is highly recommend. I'm playing with it right now, looks interesting, but I'm a bit lost in UI.I've been playing with SolveSpace for the past few hours after reading your post... For me, my "mental workflow" for doing designs is grossly influenced by openscad, so I'm used to assigning all known constants (like measured/spec'ed PCB dimensions) to variable names, then only using variable names when defining objects (like "cube([pcb_x,pcb_y,pcb_z]);"), so it keeps all constant values, or SolveSpace's "D or N keyboard shortcut" constraints at the beginning of my scad file (or in a separate imported file containing all global constants) and easy to edit when I realize for the millionth time that I screwed something up. And then I have a section where I assign all my own constants to variable names (like "box_z=pcb_z+my_innerdepth;"). So, I don't really like the steps you have to do to enter constant values in SolveSpace, and I haven't found a way in SolveSpace to use variables, but I guess the assumption is you shouldn't care since the constraint solver kinda takes care of that kinda stuff behind the scenes... So, after messing around with it for a few hours, the ui and entering constant values is a little awkward to me.
Had some blobbing issues with the first few layers... either I had it leveled too high or maybe I'm completely out to lunch on layer fan speed. Extruder kept "pinging" back pretty explosively on retracts (I think); whenever that happened came a blob. This is more advanced-level print quality diag; I'm afraid I'm just too noob to know for sure... :-\ But I'm thinking this may be the clear proof of what bean was saying about the Cap tube... very timely if so. ;)
Worse yet, this is the wrong part. I printed the nozzle for E3 with V6 hotend; turns out I needed the one for stock E3 with MicroSwiss hotend, which is essentially what I made when I built my "hybrid" V6 hotend. |O
I'm making the correct base now; we'll see if i can mod this duct to fit it. Also looking at some Cap tube to go with my dual-gear extruder and do it all in one shot.
mnem
::)
I backslid in Fusion 360 for a couple of days. I realized I didn't understand all the constraint rules and I wasn't using them right. So I had to turn off the TV and get busy. But after the appropriate videos I got back on track I think - so moving on ahead full steam ... :box:
Constraints are great when you get them sorted in particular the symmetry one. The only things I tend to leave not fully constrained (black lines) are complex curves which can be fully constrained but it means fully dimensioning the nodes in space as well as the direction and weight of the handles at those nodes. Sometimes it has to be done to avoid breakage later but most times you can fudge it ;)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94559.0;attach=960516;image)
Okay... if you do the hotend side correctly, you tighten the fitting down after inserting the tube so the tube bottoms out and jams the coupling and it can't do that. Extruder drive end you can't do that, but isn't that what these little plastic clips are supposed to prevent...?
Hmm... big difference between these three examples:
Okay... dumb question, for anyone who knows about 3DP. Which of these fittings for the Bowden tube are supposed to be "the good ones" and which the "crap ones" ? They ALL look like cheap China-direct pneumatic fittings to me... :-//
mnem
:o
Look inside the barrel is the first place to go. The bad ones lack grip points which is why they start to allow the tube to move in and out over time under extrusion pressure. The early Ender ones were only two points from memory. Other than that assuming you got fittings with your new Capricorn then trust them in particular if they were in a Capricorn Baggy.
You mean the number of fingers in the grip ring? I'll look into that. Thanks. :-+
I would've gotten the full Cap kit with fittings if they had it; only had the tubing in the Cap baggie. Pretty sure it's real Cap XS tubing; you can feel the slickery on the outside and the ID is 1.9mm as opposed to 2.05ish for that in the CReality kit. Difference is very visible too.
mnem
:-\
Maybe that's what they're talking about with the Creality branded aluminum extruders; the funny little brass fitting on the end of my list there came with my new one, and some of the listings I'm seeing now say it's somehow an "improved" fitting. I'm still dubious, of course...
Not ready to jump into re-cal-ing the e-steps and the requisite recompiling of the firmware. YET. My Kung-Fu is totes weak-sauce.
(See tutorials on YT)
(See tutorials on YT)
:o
mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch...*
(See tutorials on YT)
:o
mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch...*
What the matter - don't you like to learn things on your own? :-DD
What does learning have to do with youtube tutorials? As far as I can see, YT tutorials are twitch-inducing cringefests rather than a learning opportunity (unless you want to learn the myriad ways humans can do things wrong or just plain stupid).(See tutorials on YT)
:o
mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch...*
What the matter - don't you like to learn things on your own? :-DD
What does learning have to do with youtube tutorials? As far as I can see, YT tutorials are twitch-inducing cringefests rather than a learning opportunity (unless you want to learn the myriad ways humans can do things wrong or just plain stupid).
You just made a basic sweeping generalization fallacy. Shame on you. There are lots of good YT tutorials.Well, shame on me, but I honestly haven't seen any good YT tutorials, on any topic.
Now do you want to turn this thread into a debate over YT or get back to the topic?What, and leave your unfounded (and in my opinion, wholly incorrect) assertions unchallenged? I'm sure you'd prefer that.. ::)
Well, shame on me, but I honestly haven't seen any good YT tutorials, on any topic.
The good ones I do see are experiments, logs (this is how I did it, and how it turned out; and what I would do differently now), discussions and talks, reports, reviews, lectures/sessions and presentations.
The good tutorials I know of are written (with lots of pictures, or even better, very short video clips), follow a structure similar to a tree trunk, with a short branches (as links to in-depth material, and explaining why the main trunk/branch was chosen for the tutorial). The rate of progress is dictated by the reader, and not the presenter. Typically, the reader is expected to read the tutorial once over to get an overall picture and understand the structure of the tutorial, then re-read it at their own pace, jumping within the tutorial and background material as they see fit. It is very difficult to do the same with video because of the forced linearity of video; and almost impossible to do it properly in Youtube, where jumping to specific moments within the movie is basically up to the user dragging the progress bar to a specific point.
What, and leave your unfounded (and in my opinion, wholly incorrect) assertions unchallenged? I'm sure you'd prefer that.. ::)
No, but asserting they do, without providing a single example, is just inane. If you want to be like that, please go preach in a church.Well, shame on me, but I honestly haven't seen any good YT tutorials, on any topic.That doesn't prove they don't exist.
Do you know who Dave Jones is? Do you know he has YT tutorial videos.EEVblog videos are tutorials? I always thought of them as off-the-cuff examinations/explanations/sessions, not as tutorials per se. (Note: I'm not being snarky or anything here, I'm being genuine here.)
So does a physicist named Leonard Susskind, but I know it's all trash right?Most of his videos I've seen are recorded lectures, and I've enjoyed a couple of his talks and discussions, too. I can't seem to find any tutorials he's made; could you point out one to me, so I can better understand what you are referring to?
Say - can you show us you 3D printer and some of the things you've printed and some of the mods you have done to it? I'd really like to see for myself. :popcorn:My Anet A8 is in pieces, as I'm working on enclosing it with a metal shell and plastic sheets (polycarbonate and PMMA), so I can add activated carbon filtering. I live in a studio apartment, and the fire alarm is too sensitive for me to use the printer without it; I can even trigger it by frying bacon in my kitchenette. Let me know if you really need images of the parts, and my OpenSCAD design for the enclosure (using 40x20mm steel or aluminium tubing, 1.5mm or 2mm wall thickness).
Now do you want to turn this thread into a debate over YT or get back to the topic?What, and leave your unfounded (and in my opinion, wholly incorrect) assertions unchallenged? I'm sure you'd prefer that.. ::)
Now you have that one sorted @mnementh here is another whole level of pain up :o
7 points · 4 days ago
If you start searching Thingiverse for models now you might have a few by the time you get the printer.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=975916;image)
D'OH!!! Think I found the reason for the temp overshoot; maybe the cause of the stinky operation too. :-// Guess my online research that indicated the CR10 plate & hotend were the same as the E3 missed a small difference... the E3 and my Longer A3 clone run on 24V. :palm:
mnem
*TV time widda boi*
Just say no to crap spur gear extruders of any brand and get something better! ;)
Things to be aware of is that depending on your source the Red Extruders are actually a Creality product and not necessarily a knockoff or of lower than factory quality just an earlier model. 'Some' of them almost certainly are now cloned so buy from the various Creality online stores be it Evilbay, Aliexpress or Amazon.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805027459.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.35d56bbcyJRN31 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805027459.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.35d56bbcyJRN31)
And the 'upgraded' newer one with some improvements for a few extra $ which is a no brainer to opt for of the two now it is available.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993337712.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.35d56bbcgTaB9s (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993337712.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.35d56bbcgTaB9s)
My memory of the Red ones first appearance was it came stock on the CR-10 Pro from earlier last year. It has then found its way onto other printers as an add on and almost certainly cloned by others. Within a few months the same thing is likely to happen to the silver one too.Hmmm... I have one of the CReality-branded silver ones on my Tornado, which has been in storage for 8 months; the first "genuine" CReality part I ever bought. I suppose we'll be seeing the silver clones any day now... maybe that is the reason for making a branded part. :-//
That said... there IS a qualitative difference; the piercing tone of the OEM 3010 fan on the hotend makes it much more annoying than any of the combinations with the PetsFang and 50mm centrifugal blowers.
The REAL PITA here is the firmware tho... unlike any other 3DP I've owned, THIS unit keep the hotend fan on ALL THE FUCKING TIME. Any time it's powered up that hotend fan is running, no matter what you're doing. I totally need to see where in the config files I have to go look to make that only run when the hotend is active. :P
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=938592;image)
That said... there IS a qualitative difference; the piercing tone of the OEM 3010 fan on the hotend makes it much more annoying than any of the combinations with the PetsFang and 50mm centrifugal blowers.
The REAL PITA here is the firmware tho... unlike any other 3DP I've owned, THIS unit keep the hotend fan on ALL THE FUCKING TIME. Any time it's powered up that hotend fan is running, no matter what you're doing. I totally need to see where in the config files I have to go look to make that only run when the hotend is active. :P
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=938592;image)
OH. FUCK. ME. This damned controller isn't a faithful MKS Gen L/RAMPS 1.4 clone; the #2 & #3 fan sockets are fucking hotwired to main power. Jeebus; what idiocy. Forget everything nice I said about this controller's touch-screen UI; the designers are fucking morons. :palm:
mnem
|O
I believe MKS Gen L is supposed to be the same circuitry and pin designations as the RAMPS 1.4; just different physical layout. Both support transistor-switched outputs with PWM for at least two, if not 3 fans. I need to dig into the schematics, but I vaguely remember D7, 9 & 12 as fans, with D8 & D10 being hotbed & hotend...?
Anyways... the difference between the two is entirely layout. I knew at first glance they'd omitted stepper sockets 5 & 6... guess I expected other cut corners as well. Just not ones THIS stupid. :palm:
I believe MKS Gen L is supposed to be the same circuitry and pin designations as the RAMPS 1.4; just different physical layout. Both support transistor-switched outputs with PWM for at least two, if not 3 fans. I need to dig into the schematics, but I vaguely remember D7, 9 & 12 as fans, with D8 & D10 being hotbed & hotend...?
Anyways... the difference between the two is entirely layout. I knew at first glance they'd omitted stepper sockets 5 & 6... guess I expected other cut corners as well. Just not ones THIS stupid. :palm:
They copied some of the pin assignments out of sheer laziness, but otherwise they're pretty different.. RAMPS has three generic outputs, the MKS is organised as one fan and two hotend heaters, a bed heater, and an always-on fan port.
In either case, beyond sharing the Atmega (the 32-bit is a lie, no cake), there's no reason to assume the boards are equivalent.. Probably equivalently bad, though.
*currently trying to unscew the inscrutable conifig files of my Alpha-3*
*currently trying to unscew the inscrutable conifig files of my Alpha-3*
Marlin's bad enough before random people start messing with it, my sympathies.
My (for now) CR-10 is waiting on motivation to finish reassembling bits and trying to spew some goo. Really just needs a fan duct and some wiring cleaning..
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=984878;image) now all I have to do is program the fucking thing...I'll have a bucket ready for when your head explodes.
mnem
:scared:
Naaahhh.... mine are almost as big as hers. And perkier than my wife's; she told me so. :-DDAnd what if the bed is no longer flat and true ?
In all honesty; I really don't mind being a beta tester on this one. This ticks a bunch of boxes for me, and the build (unlike the Diggro) appears to be exactly as easy as the Tevo Tornado was. It looks like they've gone up to a 40mm (maybe even 50mm) heat-break fan, so should be much quieter. The only thing I'm really concerned about is their "leveling-free" bed mechanism; but looking at it, pretty obvious it will not be a huge assache to mod with springs & thumbwheels to manually level the bed.
mnem
:-/O
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=985916;image)(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=984878;image) now all I have to do is program the fucking thing...I'll have a bucket ready for when your head explodes.
mnem
:scared:
As always, the Devil is in the details; The part I thought was going to be a tedious nightmare of testing & troubleshooting (the PN2222A AutoFan mod) worked perfectly right off the bat, and the part that I first thought would be easy (adding a 3rd thermistor on a board based on the MKS Gen L, which comes with 3 thermistor pins) has turned out to be the assache. ::)
Most of it really wasn't that painful; I copied backups of the OE firmware & flash ROM using AVRDUde, then downloaded the FW as a packet of Arduino files from the Longer3D website. An afternoon watching snippets of vids and going back & forth on the Marlin website as I read and familiarized myself with the config.h & Config_adv.h files, and the PN2222A AutoFan mod worked perfectly first upload!
The real headache came with the 2nd temp sensor (on the transition region of the heat break); they built in too much safety and I couldn't enable it as an unused hotend thermistor like I planned. |O Eventually I figured out how to enable and configure the A15 pin as a "Chamber Temp" pin and got it working, the temps all even show up automagically in the PrintRun dashboard!
But, I misinterpreted how the existing resistor circuit on port I "repurposed" on the MB works, so the values on the new thermistor are all out to lunch. Tomorrow I'll have to recreate a third iteration of the resistor divider from the RAMPS 1.4/MKS Gen L schematic, and then the values should be correct. :-+
mnem
*toddling off to ded* :=\
:rant:Welcome to CAD. You get to pick where it hurts, not whether it hurts.
FUCKING. FUSION.
Why the FUCK is it so gawddamn HARD to add text to an object? Why the FUCK does Fusion automagically HIDE SHIT all the fucking time?
This is supposed to be software to HELP me create... I should be able to just select a fucking surface and add text to it, for FUCK's sake. :palm:
Instead, it just (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) every time I try to do what other people show me in a dozen different videos. I should NOT have to fucking outwit the gawddamn software that's supposed to be HELPING me. |O
/ :rant:
mnem
*toddles off to put ice on my aching balls*
:rant:Welcome to CAD. You get to pick where it hurts, not whether it hurts.
FUCKING. FUSION.
Why the FUCK is it so gawddamn HARD to add text to an object? Why the FUCK does Fusion automagically HIDE SHIT all the fucking time?
This is supposed to be software to HELP me create... I should be able to just select a fucking surface and add text to it, for FUCK's sake. :palm:
Instead, it just (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) every time I try to do what other people show me in a dozen different videos. I should NOT have to fucking outwit the gawddamn software that's supposed to be HELPING me. |O
/ :rant:
mnem
*toddles off to put ice on my aching balls*
Seriously...? Prusa Mini...? :o
I just watched a video of Josef himself building one, so we can assume the builder knew what he was doing. Assembly is still an unmitigated clusterfuck compared even to my Diggro, (which topend was 3 pcs extrusion and an assembled X-Axis); the Mini (like EVERY Prusa, except the ones that ship fully assembled) is definitely NOT APPROPRIATE for a first BUILD. :palm:
We all owe Josef a huge debt of gratitude for the amazing work he has done that turned personal FDM from a pie-in-the-sky dream into a tangible, doable reality... but I can only pray that one of these days he gets his dick out of his own ass and admits to himself what the rest of us already know: 8020/4020/OpenBuilds extrusion and actual fucking metal parts is the ONLY civilized way to build a 3DP. Just IMAGINE the machine he makes then. :-\
mnem
|O
Need some help here, I'm too lazy to read 23 pages of this thread, this is weekend, sitting on the couch with a couple of coffee :D. I could use some of your expertise and knowledge in this matter.
I want to dive on the 3D world to print some parts that I could need for some of my hobbies, for now would be some time to time print but could move on.
What would be a good starting point for a 3D printer, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro :-// around 250€.
I'm also considering buying a 3D scanner, for some more complex parts, still need to learn how to design in 3D software.
Fuck. Printed. Parts. For the kind of money a Prusa costs, they can damn well spend a few dollars on some CNC. Or... get this... linear slides instead of the cheapest possible rods & linear bearings FFS. Held up with printed parts. :palm: The Mini is literally a fucking tinkertoy.
mnem
Just say “No, thank you”.
Prusa hasn't made one that works out of the box period. Every one of them requires considerable fucking around with before you get your first passable print.
I want to dive on the 3D world to print some parts that I could need for some of my hobbies, for now would be some time to time print but could move on.(trollface.png) Anet A8. It will teach you what it is “стойко переносить все тяготы и лишения военной службы, не щадить своей крови и самой жизни при выполнении воинского долга”, temper your character, and then it can always be converted to CoreXY mechanic (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786292) .
What would be a good starting point for a 3D printer, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro :-// around 250€.
Skip the 3D scanner unless you really want a new hobby.
Fuck. Printed. Parts. For the kind of money a Prusa costs, they can damn well spend a few dollars on some CNC. Or... get this... linear slides instead of the cheapest possible rods & linear bearings FFS. Held up with printed parts. :palm: The Mini is literally a fucking tinkertoy.Who cares that parts are artisanally crafted by trained monkeys from their own faeces? It's the results that count. The Prusa printers seem to shine when it comes to low hassle prints with great results for an attainable price. I don't think anyone will claim Prusa printers or the company are without their flaws, but excellent support goes a long way. Don't get me wrong, the Creality printers also seem excellent value for their money, but that last bit seems to be a relevant addition. Value for money and apples to apples comparisons are two different stories.
mnem
Just say “No, thank you”.
Need some help here, I'm too lazy to read 23 pages of this thread, this is weekend, sitting on the couch with a couple of coffee :D. I could use some of your expertise and knowledge in this matter.At around 250€ buying an Ender 3 Pro seems to be the most sensible choice. It's a good starting point and you'll both learn lots about printing and get to usable prints without too many tears. Most people seem to be up and running without issue. Many end up doing some upgrades after getting their feet wet but at that point you should know what you're doing.
I want to dive on the 3D world to print some parts that I could need for some of my hobbies, for now would be some time to time print but could move on.
What would be a good starting point for a 3D printer, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro :-// around 250€.
I'm also considering buying a 3D scanner, for some more complex parts, still need to learn how to design in 3D software.
Can I ask why the 3D scanner would be a new hobby?
Skip the 3D scanner unless you really want a new hobby.
Hi @beanflying, thanks for the video, I'm watching it, need to learn and read a lot.
Can I ask why the 3D scanner would be a new hobby? I was looking at the cheap like Ciclop 3D, to copy some more complicate objects.
I've been reading also some forums dedicate to 3D in Portugal and almost all recommend the Ender 3 or 3 Pro, for a beginner relation price/quality and the large community out there.
Drinking bulk lots of Prusa Koolaid or telling others to consume it without question is DUMB not all things released in the last few years by Prusa have been perfect by any stretch. Likewise as I mentioned over the current Creality release I won't be buying into it in spite of being a happy owner of three of theirs.I don't quite understand this "Prusa Koolaid" narrative here. Prusa printers have been receiving unequivocally favourable reviews, including from folks with a lot of hands-on experience with various printers and manufacturers. Even if some reviewers are blinded by some kind of brand loyalty it's hard to argue so many are. There almost seems to be a kind of printer envy, which baffles me as we see massive disparities between available funds and equipment quality and capabilities elsewhere on the Eevblog forum and we all seem to be fine with that. Can't we just enjoy what we do have without this shitting on each other?
@Monkeh your position on Creality printers not working out of the box or componentry being inferior just has not been my experience AT ALL!
Drinking bulk lots of Prusa Koolaid or telling others to consume it without question is DUMB not all things released in the last few years by Prusa have been perfect by any stretch. Likewise as I mentioned over the current Creality release I won't be buying into it in spite of being a happy owner of three of theirs.I don't quite understand this "Prusa Koolaid" narrative here. Prusa printers have been receiving unequivocally favourable reviews, including from folks with a lot of hands-on experience with various printers and manufacturers. Even if some reviewers are blinded by some kind of brand loyalty it's hard to argue so many are. There almost seems to be a kind of printer envy, which baffles me as we see massive disparities between available funds and equipment quality and capabilities elsewhere on the Eevblog forum and we all seem to be fine with that. Can't we just enjoy what we do have without this shitting on each other?
@Monkeh your position on Creality printers not working out of the box or componentry being inferior just has not been my experience AT ALL!
You really need to read some of the 'slightly critical' Youtube comments sections when it comes to Prusa printers. 'Some' users become rabid zealots :palm: rather than consider Prusa also has minor niggles with their products from time to time. So yes Prusa Koolaid is a thing.Both fanboys and Youtube comment sections being steaming piles shouldn't surprise anyone. I gather few are foolish enough to take either as a rule.
Personally I can not justify the price disparity to features/perceived quality on this side of the planet over say an Ender at 30-35% of the price landed to my door. As I have done I am happy to let people know about the minor issues I have had with Creality printers and they continue to serve my well with multiple hundreds of prints on the three of them over nearly two years (I think).
Ambit Claims made by Monkeh re Quality of Creality printers simple don't stack up from my experience but as stated they are not perfect either. Heaping Shit without cause is just a smelly pile of waste.
Drinking bulk lots of Prusa Koolaid or telling others to consume it without question is DUMB not all things released in the last few years by Prusa have been perfect by any stretch. Likewise as I mentioned over the current Creality release I won't be buying into it in spite of being a happy owner of three of theirs.
@Monkeh your position on Creality printers not working out of the box or componentry being inferior just has not been my experience AT ALL!
Wowzers... looks like I started a bit of a war here...
My experience with Prusa is this: Helping half a dozen other people figure out and get working their various Prusa printers; a couple of them friends, the rest when I was volunteering at a local hackspace. That hands-on experience is precisely why I CANNOT in good conscience recommend ANY Prusa product as a first printer; they have the Apple fanboi thing going on, but the objective quality of product JUST IS NOT THERE. They are STILL *NIX level of "finished"; which is to say, the product is NEVER really finished and you have to roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty every. damned. time. Prusa simply is NOT ready for Prime Time. :palm:
Drinking bulk lots of Prusa Koolaid or telling others to consume it without question is DUMB not all things released in the last few years by Prusa have been perfect by any stretch. Likewise as I mentioned over the current Creality release I won't be buying into it in spite of being a happy owner of three of theirs.I don't quite understand this "Prusa Koolaid" narrative here. Prusa printers have been receiving unequivocally favourable reviews, including from folks with a lot of hands-on experience with various printers and manufacturers. Even if some reviewers are blinded by some kind of brand loyalty it's hard to argue so many are. There almost seems to be a kind of printer envy, which baffles me as we see massive disparities between available funds and equipment quality and capabilities elsewhere on the Eevblog forum and we all seem to be fine with that. Can't we just enjoy what we do have without this shitting on each other?
@Monkeh your position on Creality printers not working out of the box or componentry being inferior just has not been my experience AT ALL!
You really need to read some of the 'slightly critical' Youtube comments sections when it comes to Prusa printers. 'Some' users become rabid zealots :palm: rather than consider Prusa also has minor niggles with their products from time to time. So yes Prusa Koolaid is a thing.
Personally I can not justify the price disparity to features/perceived quality on this side of the planet over say an Ender at 30-35% of the price landed to my door. As I have done I am happy to let people know about the minor issues I have had with Creality printers and they continue to serve my well with multiple hundreds of prints on the three of them over nearly two years (I think).
Ambit Claims made by Monkeh re Quality of Creality printers simple don't stack up from my experience but as stated they are not perfect either. Heaping Shit without cause is just a smelly pile of waste.
I never said they don't work. I said they don't work out of the box, and in my real, hands-on experience, THEY DON'T.
Prusa's IP includes his custom printed parts, DUH.
As I said; promoting plastic key components for any manufacturing machinery is, in my considered and experienced opinion, harmful to the industry. Period.
Yeeah, Monkeh clearly has his Prusa-colored glasses on; the ones that hide all the |O stories like mine of building Prusa 3DP.
You said Prusa has unequivocally favorable reviews. Patently untrue.
Drinking bulk lots of Prusa Koolaid or telling others to consume it without question is DUMB not all things released in the last few years by Prusa have been perfect by any stretch. Likewise as I mentioned over the current Creality release I won't be buying into it in spite of being a happy owner of three of theirs.
Where do you see me drinking the koolaid? I could point out many flaws with my Mk3. Overly packed electronics compartment, awkward extruder design (much improved with the Mk3S), highly unreliable optical filament sensor prior to the Mk3S, no instructions to lube the bearings, Y-axis bearing mounting is prone to errror... I was missing a single part from my kit, which I printed with it after assembly, and two holes (one frame, one Y mount) were slightly bunged with powder coat which would have been uncomfortable to shove a screw in - I used a tap to clean them. Oh, and the display on mine flickers during printing. I'm not sure if that's a faulty display or a cable routing issue, but it bugs me a bit. Not exactly a perfect machine, but I'm happy with it.
They have made lots of little design errors in their parts which they've slowly improved upon, and many have made modified parts which can be dropped on. And you can just print them and fit them.
And honestly, I think the whole switch-free homing and power-loss recovery are pointless features, the combination of which leads to bad results. But sure, I'm drinking the koolaid because I happen to have had decent experiences with them, that's why I'm recommending a Mk3S kit at twice the price of a CR-6 to a new us- wait, no, I never did that..Quote@Monkeh your position on Creality printers not working out of the box or componentry being inferior just has not been my experience AT ALL!
It has been the experience of many others, and again, I have a CR-10 here.. Let's see.
Cheap bearings in the POM wheels (but not as cheap as some).
No tensioning arrangement on the Z axis.
Controller's a copy of the old Melzi design, complete with gigantic negative transients causing the AVR to latch up on limit switch activation (it still runs - and it's hot as a toaster). They switched to a buck converter to stop the 5V reg overheating to mask this, because they have no bloody idea what is happening.
Very cheap and unreliable encoder on the front panel which I must get around to replacing so it's actually usable. It's almost as bad as my microwave (which is a Samsung. For shame.).
Cheap no-name 12V (?! they did move to 24V finally) power supply.
Cheap and loud sleeve bearing fans everywhere.
The original hotend was, again, PTFE lined, as are current models afaik, which gives you a pretty hard temperature limit of about 230C (despite the firmware often allowing you to dial up to 280C - happy fumes and jammed hotend).
Oh yeah, and the extrusions were absolutely packed full of swarf because cleaning is effort, leave it to the customer.
The Ender 3 had issues with tube couplers, melting bed connectors (fake XT60s), it was a wild lottery as to bed surface for quite a while.. they've fixed much of this but as far as I'm concerned it's still a lottery as to what you get. At the price point, I don't think that's a horrible decision - but when people start drinking the Creality koolaid and touting the CR-6 as, and I quote, '100% THE "noob" printer', I'm afraid I have to strongly disagree and point out their track record. It may be a competent machine, right now it's a Kickstarter hype train and an early adopter disaster waiting to happen.
They have improved, and they've always been a good base and capable of competent prints with some care. I do recommend the likes of the Ender 3 and 5 (what a weird one that is, though) to people who are reasonably mechanically inclined and willing to take on a few problems, purely for budgetary reasons. The Prusa Mini is still a strong contender at its price point, although it's not exactly readily available yet (high initial demand and slow ramp in production are Prusa hallmarks, and very annoying ones at that).
And what Creality puts out is recycled amateur designs made as cheaply as possible, beta tested on paying customers with no warning of changes. But sure, it's okay if the bowden tubes just pop out in the first week of use, there's no tensioners for the cheap POM wheels and their crunchy bearings, the bed connectors melt, and they let you run the PTFE lined hotend at 280C, because they have some metal brackets!
You made a COMPANY WIDE Critique on Creality in it's entirety and that is what was at issue.QuoteAnd what Creality puts out is recycled amateur designs made as cheaply as possible, beta tested on paying customers with no warning of changes. But sure, it's okay if the bowden tubes just pop out in the first week of use, there's no tensioners for the cheap POM wheels and their crunchy bearings, the bed connectors melt, and they let you run the PTFE lined hotend at 280C, because they have some metal brackets!
At best your statement I was reffering to was overreaching or at worst grossly misleading in particular for others looking for a first printer.
Big deal the firmware allows 280C as stock that is not a failure
You made a COMPANY WIDE Critique on Creality in it's entirety and Big deal the firmware allows 280C as stock that is not a failure
It is when it both allows you to needlessly damage the printer and gives the impression it's capable of that temperature. There's no good reason to configure it that way.
You made a COMPANY WIDE Critique on Creality in it's entirety and Big deal the firmware allows 280C as stock that is not a failure
It is when it both allows you to needlessly damage the printer and gives the impression it's capable of that temperature. There's no good reason to configure it that way.
Given the relative ease of purchase of all metal hotends to retrofit I would think it a benefit as it avoids the PITA for some of needing to reconfigure the firmware.
If you're going to modify the printer you may as well know how to modify the firmware..
If you're going to modify the printer you may as well know how to modify the firmware..Can you say anything about the practical differences between the SKR and the Duet? I have a hard time justifying the additional cost of the Duet but I may be missing some crucial differences.
That said, they probably still don't have bootloaders, do they? Oh well, we'll see what this new 32-bit board they're banging on about looks like.. Meanwhile I have an SKR in the CR-10 (competent enough, shame about Marlin), a fixedish Creality board running the delta (Klipper - because no I'm not doing a delta with Marlin), and a Duet 2 waiting for me to give it something to do.
If you're going to modify the printer you may as well know how to modify the firmware..
Agree. I've had an SKR mini E3 v 1.2 in mine for some time now. All you need do is put your build (firmware.bin) on the SD card and it installs it automatically. I put all the new releases of Marlin on it as they come out, latest is 2.0.5.3.
https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ (https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/)
Among other things I've enabled Linear Advance and manual mesh bed leveling in my builds. Once you get the initial configs set up I haven't run into any issues at all with installing the latest versions. It does erase the data for the mesh bed leveling each time but that's just a matter of doing a couple-minute re-leveling not a problem, all the other settings are good to go.
There are tutorials out there for the configs and VS Code but I'm not recommending where to look at one because I got my ass chewed last time I did. :-DD
Teaching Tech
153K subscribers
The Ender 3 upgrades continue! In this guide, I show you step by step how to flash a bootloader to the Melzi board so you can upgrade your firmware. Why would you do that? The safety net of thermal runaway protection and the capacity for future mods.
There were some other guides out there but I felt they were either out of date of not concise. I hope this tutorial is easy to follow. Fortunately the bootloader flashing only needs to be done once.
*One thing I forgot to include is the need to go to 'Initialize EEPROM' in LCD menu after flashing the firmware.*
Creality have released their own firmware source, but I would recommend the TH3D Unified firmware instead, as it is based on a newer version of Marlin. You will lose power off recovery but it is only a matter of time before this is ported over now that Creality have released the source code.
A future video will cover the installation of a BLtouch, hit subscribe so you don’t miss it.
None of this makes a Prusa a good recommendation for a first printer. For a second or third printer, once you know enough to start fiddling around with it, sure. But a first machine needs to be dead-simple to get up and running and producing usable prints, and the Prusa simply isn’t that.The printer definitely still has flaws, even the mk3s. I know about them. I own one. But if you look at the overall deal, you're pretty much getting everything sorted out for you. The printer, no hassle with leveling or limit switches, a slicer developed for this printer, a model sharing website and a decent community.
If you're going to modify the printer you may as well know how to modify the firmware..Can you say anything about the practical differences between the SKR and the Duet? I have a hard time justifying the additional cost of the Duet but I may be missing some crucial differences.
That said, they probably still don't have bootloaders, do they? Oh well, we'll see what this new 32-bit board they're banging on about looks like.. Meanwhile I have an SKR in the CR-10 (competent enough, shame about Marlin), a fixedish Creality board running the delta (Klipper - because no I'm not doing a delta with Marlin), and a Duet 2 waiting for me to give it something to do.
For example, they might start printing abs, hips or nylon. which is toxic. Or print tpu, which will undoubtedly cause a nozzle clog and make the thing catch fire.
The whole material argument is a bit perplexing. The results count and those seem to speak for themselves. Most consider the Prusa print quality an industry benchmark. We could argue about printed plastics until the cows come home but it's moot at that point. All other things being equal I like a good chunk of metal but that condition is vital.
I don't think anyone will claim any FDM printer is hassle free. Even the stupidly expensive industrial models still are far from.
None of this makes a Prusa a good recommendation for a first printer. For a second or third printer, once you know enough to start fiddling around with it, sure. But a first machine needs to be dead-simple to get up and running and producing usable prints, and the Prusa simply isn’t that.The printer definitely still has flaws, even the mk3s. I know about them. I own one. But if you look at the overall deal, you're pretty much getting everything sorted out for you. The printer, no hassle with leveling or limit switches, a slicer developed for this printer, a model sharing website and a decent community.
Now, you can be all angry at prusa for not making if out of a milled aluminum slab and using cheap plastic. Tough luck, it's a reprap, and then you should also be angry at makerbot for having done exactly the same things.
For more plug&play printers you'd be going to Sindoh or something alike. But that also doubles the price. I think part of why prusa is selling so well isn't the quality printer but the story and complementary product around it.
I would absolutely not recommend Creality or Prusa to non-tech 3d printer beginners as they may not recognize the hazards an open frame cheap printer may pose.
For example, they might start printing abs, hips or nylon. which is toxic. Or print tpu, which will undoubtedly cause a nozzle clog and make the thing catch fire.
It will still be a while before Karen from accounting will be able to buy and use a 3D printer with the same thoughtlessness as the paper printer.
If you're going to modify the printer you may as well know how to modify the firmware..Can you say anything about the practical differences between the SKR and the Duet? I have a hard time justifying the additional cost of the Duet but I may be missing some crucial differences.
That said, they probably still don't have bootloaders, do they? Oh well, we'll see what this new 32-bit board they're banging on about looks like.. Meanwhile I have an SKR in the CR-10 (competent enough, shame about Marlin), a fixedish Creality board running the delta (Klipper - because no I'm not doing a delta with Marlin), and a Duet 2 waiting for me to give it something to do.
Built-in networking, configurable on the fly (and much easier and more flexible than the likes of Marlin), decently high current drivers if needed (although the SKR can use quieter ones).. Much greater expandability. 5 drivers on the Duet 2, expansion board offers up to 5 more, and I seem to recall there's another two sets of step/dir signals available on a header. Also readily available thermocouple or PT100 inputs which just drop on. There's also a healthy number of outputs to go with that for fans, heaters, and so forth. The Duet 3 gets 6 drivers (quite high current ones) and CAN expandability.
The newest (still beta) firmware offers conditional expressions in gcode to allow even greater flexibility.
These are high end boards capable of handling rather more complex machines than the average desktop printer. One fellow I know is running a custom-built pellet extruder with thermocouples at multiple points in the melt zone (good luck doing that with Marlin) for example. For the average printer, other than the clusterfuck that is driver modules, something like an SKR is adequate, but the firmware on the Duet is very nice to work with. There's always the Maestro, which is less painfully expensive..
None of this makes a Prusa a good recommendation for a first printer. For a second or third printer, once you know enough to start fiddling around with it, sure. But a first machine needs to be dead-simple to get up and running and producing usable prints, and the Prusa simply isn’t that.The printer definitely still has flaws, even the mk3s. I know about them. I own one. But if you look at the overall deal, you're pretty much getting everything sorted out for you. The printer, no hassle with leveling or limit switches, a slicer developed for this printer, a model sharing website and a decent community.
Now, you can be all angry at prusa for not making if out of a milled aluminum slab and using cheap plastic. Tough luck, it's a reprap, and then you should also be angry at makerbot for having done exactly the same things.
For more plug&play printers you'd be going to Sindoh or something alike. But that also doubles the price.
I think part of why prusa is selling so well isn't the quality printer but the story and complementary product around it.
I would absolutely not recommend Creality or Prusa to non-tech 3d printer beginners as they may not recognize the hazards an open frame cheap printer may pose.
For example, they might start printing abs, hips or nylon. which is toxic. Or print tpu, which will undoubtedly cause a nozzle clog and make the thing catch fire.
It will still be a while before Karen from accounting will be able to buy and use a 3D printer with the same thoughtlessness as the paper printer.
Changing a little of subject, may I ask what you guys use/advice for PC to use with the 3D soft, I've download Fusion 360 for personal use but it crash on my old laptop, ...
Changing a little of subject, may I ask what you guys use/advice for PC to use with the 3D soft, I've download Fusion 360 for personal use but it crash on my old laptop, so it's time to buy something for the shop, I like the mini PC's (like Hystou), they run on 12V and are small so you can put them anywhere.
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.est.5b04983For example, they might start printing abs, hips or nylon. which is toxic. Or print tpu, which will undoubtedly cause a nozzle clog and make the thing catch fire.
Can you please elaborate why nylon is toxic? I understand why asa, hips and abs are toxic, they release styrene or something.
I Also don't understand about tpu, how can it catch fire?
With the wrong feedrate TPU immediately screws up your extruder. Jamming the motor.
LOL... a benchmark that is entirely derived from fettling by people who know what they're doing, and made possible by the network of fanbois who will gladly spend days helping you get it working. I guess that's somehow a "value-added" proposition...? :-//Bullying and being loud and belligerent isn't proper discussion form. It's a tactic designed to distract people from the lack of substance of the argument, and to tire them out with unrelated matters. Just two weeks ago you had a similar run in with other members of this forum, causing them to walk out. What med6753 said back then is almost exactly what I'd say to you now, except that I'm not going to walk out.
And NO, it IS about the materials used. In the 3DP INDUSTRY, as in industrial 3DP, they'd fucking laugh you out of the room if you showed up with anything made the way a Prusa is. :palm:
If you're going to try and argue something so patently ridiculous on the face of it... that somehow precision machined metal is not a superior foundation in comparison to printed plastic... I can only assume that you are YET AGAIN trolling me, Scram... and I have no patience for it today. ::)
mnem
(https://filedn.com/lEDSGUXnO7mp9lWR3BbARrR/Emoticons/coffee_L.gif)
And my measured response to this is bullshit. You know, it's not the subject matter so much that I object to, it's the attitude that goes along with it. You act like a bully. That this forum is for your personal use to trash with tirades as you please and openly ridicule anyone who disagrees with you. And your response here to me and Oculus proves it. I got news for you. Who died and left you boss?
Yes I'm a prickly bastard and proud of it. And I really don't like individuals who truly believe they are always right. And unfortunately that's how you come across. You feel like you walk on egg shells? What a load of crap. ::) More like a bull in a china shop.
I got my big boy pants on. As well as my walking shoes. And I'm voting with them. |O
It translates into a fire hazard because the extruder perfoms a slow unplanned dissasembly.
*Yawwwnnn* Scram, you're a well-known troll who just doesn't know when to quit. :palm:Yes, I am trolling. med6753 was trolling. Oculus was trolling. Everyone is trolling. It's never mnementh. People can read for themselves. They can draw their own conclusions.
You may not like my style, but I've been there, I've dunnat, and I know the difference between fanboi-ism and what's actually easy. I'm trying to keep people from making the same mistakes I made, (Please, please for Ifni's sake, learn from my mistakes) while you (again) just keep parroting back the same exact arguments over and over in slightly different ways, while still refusing to address the points I've made from actual experience. |O
So... I'm going to ask you something. Just how many 3DP do YOU have FIRSTHAND experience building...? I obviously don't know as much about 3DP as Monkeh or even bean; but I DO know what isn't EASY (therefore appropriate for a first build), AND I've done it, so I have some experience. What do YOU have aside from conjecture? What's your excuse for bringing this shit back up when we've FINALLY moved on to productive discussion?
mnem
Thanks for playing.
I'm currently deliberating whether to build a new Ultimaker style printer with all the modern bells and whistles from the ground up or just buy a Prusa MK3. Both have pros and cons. That's why I asked about the Duet versus the SKR board.
Look into a Railcore if you fancy a project. An expensive, time consuming project. Boy do they make nice prints, though. Zero chance I'd recommend one of those to a newbie.I wasn't looking for a project of that magnitude but my, that print quality. You're giving me naughty thoughts.
With Prusa, the road from first build to usable quality prints is longer, the learning curve is steeper right out of the box, and every build does require tweaking to get to "usable" quality prints
I’m thinking about getting a 3D printer. Was going to ask for advice. But reading the last page of posts, I think I’m going to get conflicting information :)
Anyway, never used one in my life, but am very mechanically minded, having to tinker and adjust things isn’t a problem.
Not looking to spend a fortune, but want something that is usable and will remain so for years to come. (Am thinking of £500 max with everything I need)
Space is a problem, height doesn’t matter but ideally no more than 56 cm (22 inch) from front to back, width as near to that as possible although can be a little wider if needed.
Noise will be a problem as my house has living room and dining room knocked into one, and my labs in the dining room. Wife won’t put up with constant loud noise when she is watching TV.
As for what I want it for, haven’t a clue really, just always wanted one and have a bit of spare cash at the moment and it’s probably buy one now, or never get one. In the past I’ve tried to fix things with broken cogs etc on, being able to make broken parts is one thing. Making various storage solutions for my electronic components is another.
Any suggestions or can anyone point me to a non biased site giving the pros and cons of the various cheaper models?
Thanks
Another one to throw onto the Bonfire pile of small printers to consider is the Cetus https://www.cetus3d.com/ (https://www.cetus3d.com/) Dropping a simple enclose over any printer sounds like a good idea too. https://www.cetus3d.com/ (https://www.cetus3d.com/) The now available Smoothieware compatible board takes away some of the reservations I would have had with the earlier locked infrastructure ones.
With Prusa, the road from first build to usable quality prints is longer, the learning curve is steeper right out of the box, and every build does require tweaking to get to "usable" quality prints
I really don't see how you can apply this to a Mini when you've never built one. It's not remotely the same as a Mk2 or Mk3 kit: You bolt a couple of major assemblies together, plug a few connectors in, run a brief test and calibration procedure, adjust the probe offset, and print.
With Prusa, the road from first build to usable quality prints is longer, the learning curve is steeper right out of the box, and every build does require tweaking to get to "usable" quality prints
I really don't see how you can apply this to a Mini when you've never built one. It's not remotely the same as a Mk2 or Mk3 kit: You bolt a couple of major assemblies together, plug a few connectors in, run a brief test and calibration procedure, adjust the probe offset, and print.
I watched Josef's build video on it. The E3 is easier. The CR6-SE is easier than that. What more can I say? :-//
No, med was not trolling. med and I are old friends, and we happened to have a disagreement in thread. The fact you don't see that, and know that like adults, we worked it out, is exactly what I'm talking about. You only see ammunition to use in your attacks. :palm: You really ARE a well-known troll, you have earned this reputation, and I am sick and tired of defending you to my friends. ::)You're still trying to make an argument out of your experience, which you at the same time refuse to quantify, even after indulging your attempt to upstage the people in this thread. It seems pretty obvious that being more specific than you are would show how silly all this noise you've been making has been. I'm still not sure what this experience is supposed to tell us. Apparently you had a bad time with earlier printers. Maybe that tells us earlier printers were a bit more of a pain to put together or use. Maybe it just tells us you couldn't figure them out.
Your questions about which models I worked with, as you've correctly stated, were immaterial; I ignored them as the obvious attempt to drag me back into a semantic argument I'm already tired of that they clearly are.
Do you have any experience with any of the CReality or clone printers that bean and I have suggested? Or do you simply assume that because you battled your way through all those Prusa builds it's only fair to expect others to do so?
The disagreement we keep having here is NOT one of "how much quality" can you get out of a Prusa; you can get quality out of a plywood RepRap build, especially if you have help. It's whether the "kit" is appropriately simple, pre-assembled and idiot-tolerant to be a good choice as a first build. It's over the amount of fettling required to get a usable print on your first build. What an experienced builder considers to be easy is not the same as what a noob will consider to be so. I learned those lessons the hard way through lots of |O
The Prusa kits STILL aren't even in the same league as the E3 for simplicity. Nor do they have the E3's proven track record of being a FDM printer that is just plain easy to live with. They require maintenance due to the choice of materials that just isn't there with an extrusion-framed build.
There are SO MANY printers out there which produce similar or better results to the Prusa, that it's hard to believe someone with your vast experience can't come up with some good firsthand reasons other than "these guys say it's good" and "I didn't think it was that bad".
I don't know... maybe it's a matter of philosophy, and you just click well with the Prusa crowd, and just don't see what I see in the comparative assache factor of the two kits as a first build. If that's the case, I guess I'll never be able to make you see it. :-//
For the difference in price, you can certainly start with a nice easy E3 or CR-10, THEN when you've gotten a handle on what you're doing, it's EASY and cheap to upgrade to linears & rods or sliders, making them every bit the equal of the Prusa (because hey, they ARE Prusa-derived), only on a more stable base so less fettling over the long run. Two of my friends from my old hackspace, and many popular figures online have gone exactly that route.
But there I go saying "These guys say it's good." ;)
mnem
:popcorn:
bean and I like CReality; we feel the price/performance ratio is off the hook. I've bought & built a couple Creality clones; a Tevo Tornado (CR10 clone) & a Longer LK4 Pro/Diggro Alpha 3 (Ender 3 Clone).I don't "prefer to recommend the Prusa line". That's the kind of misconceptions you get when the fanboy/hater crowd perturbs any nuanced discussion. It all depends on your situations and preferences. The Ender 3 is a pretty good printer. If your budget is a few hundred bucks or you just want to get your feet wet you cannot really go wrong with it, especially when compared to its competitors at the same price point. If you have more money to burn, the Prusa MK3 is an excellent option. Building one is easy. The quality, ease of use and general liveability is ultimately just better. It comes at a much steeper price though and that's why there isn't a single answer for everyone.
I like the Ender 3 well enough that I've recommended it to many people; particularly as a first build because they are available as a 98% assembled kit that literally takes minutes to have up & printing. It is an amazing value; with models from ~US$200-350 that all share the same simple, durable DNA. That DNA is good enough that even my cheaper clones were similarly easy to build and get printing right out of the box; everyone I know who has bought an E3 has loved it for the same reason. :-+
That said... right now I think the CReality CR6-SE (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit) is the best thing since sliced bread; it has a ton of next-gen features, and it is designed from the ground up to be a 5-minute build specifically aimed at the first-time builder. I like the feature set enough that is is the first genuine CReality printer I have seen that I was willing to pay full price for at ~US$360 delivered from the Kickstarter.
From the *ahem* conversation in here, it appears Scram and Monkeh prefer to recommend the Prusa line. While not as attractive a build, they have a good support network (as does the E3) and people will help you get it running and teach you how to tweak it for excellent results.
IMO, the differences boil down to two factors: Initial build is not as "Lego Easy" with the Prusas as it is with the Ender 3. It requires some tweaking to get it printing well; this means many first-time builders will get frustrated. I know I did on several that I helped others build. But... there is a tradeoff.
The E3 is easy, and solidly built, and will print usable, even good quality prints out of the box with little or no tweaking. However, it uses less precise polyurethane-covered rollers riding on v-slot extrusion. You can only get so much precision out of that, so there is a limit to just how fine a print you can make. Period.
With Prusa, the road from first build to usable quality prints is longer, the learning curve is steeper right out of the box, and every build does require tweaking to get to "usable" quality prints, which you get just by bolting an E3 together. HOWEVER... because the Prusa uses ground rods & linear bearings which are inherently more precise, you CAN tweak it to get better precision and better looking prints than the E3 can yield. But THAT requires getting a fair bit deeper into the nut & volts of how a 3DP works than I feel is reasonable for a first machine.
All sniping and personality conflicts set aside; this is the most concise and impartial recommendation I can make:
There are a number of good printers out there; I've recommended the E3 to many happy users. But the CR6-SE is the first I've seen that was designed to make the first-time builder's experience Lego-easy, and I believe it is worth the ~US$350 pricetag just for that and the slightly larger 235x235x250 build volume. I feel the next-gen upgrades (including Touchscreen UI, pre-configured mesh auto-leveling, Trinamic silent steppers and clone Ultrabase build plate) that come built-in make it worthwhile for the more experienced builder, just for the decreased hassle-factor. I believe in it enough that I bought one.
mnem
*putting on muh flame-proof jammies*
Here's another example of real world (is there a false world? :) ) usage for a 3D printer for anyone out there considering one. Another woodworkiing tool - this time a cheap 90 deg corner clamp. It isn't high quality and the "pads" are very sloppy and move side-to-side too much. I whipped up a quick adapter in Fusion 360 which fits over the top and fixes the sloppiness and also makes them a little wider. Came out right the first time. Took about 25 min. to print each one. Might make them a little taller but they work great like they are.This guy has some pretty cool functional prints for the shop. Some feel a little bit like a solution looking for a problem, but many are very practical.
(Attachment Link)
The consensus seems to be the modern Prusa MK3 is an excellent printer for a complete novice.
Today I saw on reddit a filament jam detection sensor. https://reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/gifx5s/a_clog_detector_all_files_available/ Ingenius, why don't the printers have this yet?
I have to admit I would agree the kit form is not a good idea for anyone not already mechanically inclined - there's too many fragile parts and too much 'feel' needed (I don't consider this any different for a kit with all metal components - small screws and aluminium threads are fragile). However, anyone who's got a few years of tinkering with any small mechanical systems under their belt (no pun intended) should be okay.The video compares it to building a Lego set, so I guess that if you manage one of those without ingesting too many bricks you should be fine. You could always order a ready to print MK3 as that's a service they provide, but if that's for reasons of ineptitude I don't think 3D printers are for you. I feel that's more for people who already know what they're doing and just need a printer to produce prints. I don't think there's a printer on the market which doesn't require tinkering sooner or later and having a basic grasp of its principles is essentially required. I guess we're saying the same thing. :P
The Mini, on the other hand, is in an entirely different category no matter how badly Josef managed to screw up a video introduction to it.
This guy has some pretty cool functional prints for the shop. Some feel a little bit like a solution looking for a problem, but many are very practical.
The consensus seems to be the modern Prusa MK3 is an excellent printer for a complete novice.
Scram... you are STILL trolling ME. PLEASE stop. No matter how smugly conservative your word choice is, the fact you won't stop beleaguering me IS TROLLING.Everyone is trolling. It's never mnementh. The only reason all this noise happens again and again is because refuse to accept you may not be an expert. Whenever this is so much as hinted at, here or elsewhere, you start throwing a fit, bullying and posting endless walls of text with loud fonts. Anything to distract from the discussion at hand. The whole tactic depends on well adjusted people deciding they don't need all that noise sooner or later and leaving the discussion, avoiding a conclusion. I guess we need to see it through for once to have any chance of things changing. People are tired of tiptoeing around a frail ego.Quote from: Mr ScramThe consensus seems to be the modern Prusa MK3 is an excellent printer for a complete novice.
No... that is A consensus between some people, two of which are in this thread. I have relevant experience, and I disagree. DEAL WITH IT.
HobGoblyn asked for opinions... that was my considered opinion, and I don't need to justify myself to you for that, nor do I have to allow you to drag me into another of your incessant nit-picking sessions. Furthermore, anybody but YOU can see that I deliberately tried NOT to be antagonistic in my opinion... yet you simply WILL NOT LET IT GO.
You are a selfish, obsessive, relentless individual, who cares only about being right, or if you can't do that, getting the last word in. |O
PLEASE, go stalk someone ELSE. :palm:
mnem
I'm all out of pithy right now.
The consensus seems to be the modern Prusa MK3 is an excellent printer for a complete novice.
I have to admit I would agree the kit form is not a good idea for anyone not already mechanically inclined - there's too many fragile parts and too much 'feel' needed (I don't consider this any different for a kit with all metal components - small screws and aluminium threads are fragile). However, anyone who's got a few years of tinkering with any small mechanical systems under their belt (no pun intended) should be okay.
The Mini, on the other hand, is in an entirely different category no matter how badly Josef managed to screw up a video introduction to it.
The consensus seems to be the modern Prusa MK3 is an excellent printer for a complete novice.
I have to admit I would agree the kit form is not a good idea for anyone not already mechanically inclined - there's too many fragile parts and too much 'feel' needed (I don't consider this any different for a kit with all metal components - small screws and aluminium threads are fragile). However, anyone who's got a few years of tinkering with any small mechanical systems under their belt (no pun intended) should be okay.
The Mini, on the other hand, is in an entirely different category no matter how badly Josef managed to screw up a video introduction to it.
Kit would be fine for me, over the decades I’ve lost count of the things I’ve stripped down and fixed (and others being amazed I got them back together lol).
It is, however, a £700 kit which needs probably a little more space than you have.With a budget of £500 and size constraints I don't think the MK3 is a good match. A problem is that smaller printers often come with disproportionally small print volumes. Many smaller prints seem to be counter-lever models, which I agree with mnementh seem fundamentally less ideal. Comparing actual print results sounds like a good idea. The Prusa Mini may be an interesting option as it's both smaller and silent, but I don't know enough about those to really recommend one. I think you did more research into them.
Many thanks all.I actually started typing but never posted something in that vein. When you start modding printers you can adapt and adjust parts you don't like. Quieting down an Ender 3 would be a good example of that and is fairly commonly done. While I don't think you should convert an Ender 3 when you really want a MK3, changing what you don't like is a viable approach. I don't think you can really get into printing without also starting modding sooner or later. I don't think you will be disappointed if you buy an Ender 3, especially if you accept you will be making some changes ahead of time. I'd definitely opt for the Ender 3 Pro model over de regular Ender 3 as that's just a sensible improvement. Just having a name brand power supply is worth it.
I've watched the youtube vid Mr Scram posted.
From that, while the i3 Mk3 came off best in most things, the Ender 3 also came up very good. The CR10 not so good (but he did stress that might be because his needs adjusting).
Print quality wise, apart from horizontal text printing and 5 degrees less overhang, the Ender 3 seems on par with the I3 Mk3 quality (Ender 3 had less string with the tiny vertical bits).
He stressed how much easier the i3 Mk3 is to use and how quite it is.
I've spent a few hours watching various youtube on the Ender 3 (will watch some on the other models suggested to me in this thread tomorrow), and it seems that I can upgrade it to be virtually silent with things like motor dampers etc. From what I've watched, I THINK (haven't done my sums yet) I could get the Ender 3 and all the bits to upgrade, for 1/2 the price the i3 Mk3 costs.
Then we come to space. I have two options. I'm in the middle of rearranging my lab at the moment, I've attached as few pics if anyone's interested, the table to the left hand side, is really totally unused (it has an external disk drive and an audio interface on it, both could be put underneath the table). The only thing on it is my second monitor (both monitors on those arms that allow them to go up, down in and out).
The table is only 60 cm deep though, and I'm not sure how I could redesign my monitor (or lab) layout to give me the entire table, maybe I could get a stand that allows it to go above my main monitor. Height is zero problem, shelves can easily be moved/removed.
The other option is our spare room. I say spare room, junk yard is a more apt description, it's used to store everything. Size is no problem there, but I would have to set up a web cam etc to keep an eye on it. Would much rather it in the main room with my PC etc.
If anyone can suggest a better layout for my lab, that could accommodate a 3D printer, I'm more than happy to consider it.
Many thanks for all the advice
Many thanks all.
I've watched the youtube vid Mr Scram posted.
From that, while the i3 Mk3 came off best in most things, the Ender 3 also came up very good. The CR10 not so good (but he did stress that might be because his needs adjusting).
Print quality wise, apart from horizontal text printing and 5 degrees less overhang, the Ender 3 seems on par with the I3 Mk3 quality (Ender 3 had less string with the tiny vertical bits).
He stressed how much easier the i3 Mk3 is to use and how quite it is.
I've spent a few hours watching various youtube on the Ender 3 (will watch some on the other models suggested to me in this thread tomorrow), and it seems that I can upgrade it to be virtually silent with things like motor dampers etc. From what I've watched, I THINK (haven't done my sums yet) I could get the Ender 3 and all the bits to upgrade, for 1/2 the price the i3 Mk3 costs.
Then we come to space. I have two options. I'm in the middle of rearranging my lab at the moment, I've attached as few pics if anyone's interested, the table to the left hand side, is really totally unused (it has an external disk drive and an audio interface on it, both could be put underneath the table). The only thing on it is my second monitor (both monitors on those arms that allow them to go up, down in and out).
The table is only 60 cm deep though, and I'm not sure how I could redesign my monitor (or lab) layout to give me the entire table, maybe I could get a stand that allows it to go above my main monitor. Height is zero problem, shelves can easily be moved/removed.
The other option is our spare room. I say spare room, junk yard is a more apt description, it's used to store everything. Size is no problem there, but I would have to set up a web cam etc to keep an eye on it. Would much rather it in the main room with my PC etc.
If anyone can suggest a better layout for my lab, that could accommodate a 3D printer, I'm more than happy to consider it.
Many thanks for all the advice
I've spent a few hours watching various youtube on the Ender 3 (will watch some on the other models suggested to me in this thread tomorrow), and it seems that I can upgrade it to be virtually silent with things like motor dampers etc. From what I've watched, I THINK (haven't done my sums yet) I could get the Ender 3 and all the bits to upgrade, for 1/2 the price the i3 Mk3 costs.
The guys here are using this kit < https://pt.aliexpress.com/i/4000532227452.html > and BMG extruder clones
Mr.Scram the prices are very similar in the official store in EU < https://www.creality3dofficial.com/ (https://www.creality3dofficial.com/) > or here < https://www.3dprima.com/3d-printers/manufactures/creality/search/creality-106/?aoff=s (https://www.3dprima.com/3d-printers/manufactures/creality/search/creality-106/?aoff=s) >Creality has a resin printer now. I'm not a fan of the bucket lid, but other than that it's looking quite good. Interesting.
mnementh, I don't need it now, it will give me more time to research to read and to build a new mITX since my laptop won't run F360, and the 3Pro are all sold out across EU, only for the end of this month there will be stock.
And buy them from China is a no go, since it will hit the costumes and there you go 23% VAT + other taxes and so on.
Catastrophic, maybe not. Needs fixing, definitely.Today I saw on reddit a filament jam detection sensor. https://reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/gifx5s/a_clog_detector_all_files_available/ (https://reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/gifx5s/a_clog_detector_all_files_available/) Ingenius, why don't the printers have this yet?
That is ingenious... can a clog cause any kind of catastrophic failure that could occur in the 7-minute window?
Catastrophic, maybe not. Needs fixing, definitely.If only the Spaghetti Detective wasn't an online service. :palm:
To babysit the printer continuously with a camera is silly. Have some ai do that.
The Spaghetti Detective (https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/) works nice.
The ideal home single-extruder printer I guess would have:
- Silence.
- Camera with spaghetti detective.
- Filament feedrate sensor.
- Automatic leveling.
- Cabinet with filter for abs.
- Automatic nozzle cleaning
You probably don't want to put it on the wheeled part of your bench.
If you can move equipment around a little and scoot the microscope to the right and the monitors with it, you might just be okay there.
I presume the Pro version is worth the extra £55?Just the name brand power supply is worth it in my eyes and the other improvements can't hurt.
Amazon UK has pro for £299 and non pro for £245
Will order the following in about 3 hours unless someone tells me I shouldn't :)
£14 Vibration Damper (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Machine-Creality/dp/B07KVV947G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
£40 SKR Mini E3 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A079191731ZULV1NP8TBM&url=%2FBIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality%2Fdp%2FB07XYW21J3%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3DKCNV96HCR3YH%26dchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dskr%2Bmini%2Be3%26qid%3D1589462160%26sprefix%3Dskr%2Bmini%252Caps%252C151%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1589462160&id=4229467203087061&widgetName=sp_atf)
Cheapest Pro I've found on Amazon is £270 Here (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Removable-Certified-220x220x250mm-Printing/dp/B07PJQNNGP/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3&qid=1589462241&sr=8-7)
Total cost £324. Plus the cost of a fan which I will get once it's arrived and I've looked into it more.
Advice on good filament so I can order some at the same time much appreciated.
Thanks (will also look at other UK stockists to see if they have printer cheaper)
Or for £369, I can buy an Ender 5 proWhich you'll want upgrades for too. Which brings it closer to the price of a Prusa MK3. For which you'll probably want some upgrades for sooner or later. You get the point.
£14 Vibration Damper (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Machine-Creality/dp/B07KVV947G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)I fitted those and they cause ringing on some models. https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-ringing-easy-fixes/ (https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-ringing-easy-fixes/)
Catastrophic, maybe not. Needs fixing, definitely.Today I saw on reddit a filament jam detection sensor. https://reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/gifx5s/a_clog_detector_all_files_available/ (https://reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/gifx5s/a_clog_detector_all_files_available/) Ingenius, why don't the printers have this yet?
That is ingenious... can a clog cause any kind of catastrophic failure that could occur in the 7-minute window?
To babysit the printer continuously with a camera is silly. Have some ai do that.
The Spaghetti Detective (https://www.thespaghettidetective.com/) works nice.
The ideal home single-extruder printer I guess would have:
- Silence.
- Camera with spaghetti detective.
- Filament feedrate sensor.
- Automatic leveling.
- Cabinet with filter for abs.
- Automatic nozzle cleaning
I presume the Pro version is worth the extra £55? Amazon UK has pro for £299 and non pro for £245
Will order the following in about 3 hours unless someone tells me I shouldn't :)
£14 Vibration Damper (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Machine-Creality/dp/B07KVV947G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
£40 SKR Mini E3 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A079191731ZULV1NP8TBM&url=%2FBIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality%2Fdp%2FB07XYW21J3%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3DKCNV96HCR3YH%26dchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dskr%2Bmini%2Be3%26qid%3D1589462160%26sprefix%3Dskr%2Bmini%252Caps%252C151%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1589462160&id=4229467203087061&widgetName=sp_atf)
Cheapest Pro I've found on Amazon is £270 Here (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Removable-Certified-220x220x250mm-Printing/dp/B07PJQNNGP/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3&qid=1589462241&sr=8-7)
Total cost £324. Plus the cost of a fan which I will get once it's arrived and I've looked into it more.
Advice on good filament so I can order some at the same time much appreciated.
Thanks (will also look at other UK stockists to see if they have printer cheaper)
Thanks all. I'm stopping looking now, I agree with Mr Scram, there's always something just a few £ more that turns out costing a lot more and it's never ending.
Ender 3 Pro it is.
Any filament suppliers in the UK that someone can recommend would be appreciated.
Thanks for everyone's advice, much appreciated.
Many thanks.Just start printing without worrying about upgrades too much. Figuring out what you need and why is a valuable lesson on its own. The stock Ender 3 Pro holds its own so just get printing. No need to rush. Get some filament and get cracking.
Vibration dampers now out.
Now buying this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/BIQU-DIRECT-Controller-Panel-Replacement-Original/dp/B082CJHKYC/ref=sr_1_38?crid=23VIUO3SHHDAW&dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1589476988&sprefix=ender%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-38) :)
The one Ender 3 pro in stock earlier for £270 has now sold. Next cheapest is £280.
So £280 + £72 = £352 and will be here Monday. I'm happy with that.
Going to place the order in about an hour, so if anyone can think of anything I've missed, jump in quick :)
A few youtube vids upgraded the Extruder. It only costs £12 for this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/YONMEIA-Extruder-Aluminum-extruder-Creality/dp/B07R64Q86R/ref=sr_1_20?crid=23VIUO3SHHDAW&dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1589476988&sprefix=ender%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-20), so unless someone responds before my order, I'll probably order that too.
Found it on AliExpress here (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993337712.html)
Never used AliExpress, was going to a few weeks ago but their payment page wasn't secure. Will see what it's like now
Edit: Great minds think alike :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUp3oCGZOzk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUp3oCGZOzk)The part in the video looks more like a demo project than something that would typically be printed. Parts are generally printed for specific reasons. When you need highly intricate geometry traditional processes can't do well or you need low volume part, especially when dimensional accuracy is important. Examples would be rocket engine nozzles and classic car part reproductions.
https://www.slm-solutions.com/en/products/machines/slm500/ (https://www.slm-solutions.com/en/products/machines/slm500/)
I have actually fabbed a similar geometry intake from aluminum sheet & tube. This is DEF prettier, and less manual labor... I think. :-// But not so sure about cost or time; took me 2 1/2 days to make at a cost of ~$600, including about $220 worth of ready-made injector & port flanges rather than turning/milling them by hand.
mnem
:popcorn:
Real nice 3DP multipurpose breakout enclosure for a PSU and the 16ch scanner card in a SDM3065X.I'm not sure I'd use printing for that but a scan card breakout is a good idea.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/?action=dlattach;attach=992172;image)
Further info and pics here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270)
Real nice 3DP multipurpose breakout enclosure for a PSU and the 16ch scanner card in a SDM3065X.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/?action=dlattach;attach=992172;image)
Further info and pics here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270)
Will order the following in about 3 hours unless someone tells me I shouldn't :)
£14 Vibration Damper (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Machine-Creality/dp/B07KVV947G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
£40 SKR Mini E3 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A079191731ZULV1NP8TBM&url=%2FBIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality%2Fdp%2FB07XYW21J3%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1_sspa%3Fcrid%3DKCNV96HCR3YH%26dchild%3D1%26keywords%3Dskr%2Bmini%2Be3%26qid%3D1589462160%26sprefix%3Dskr%2Bmini%252Caps%252C151%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1&qualifier=1589462160&id=4229467203087061&widgetName=sp_atf)
Cheapest Pro I've found on Amazon is £270 Here (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Creality-Removable-Certified-220x220x250mm-Printing/dp/B07PJQNNGP/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3&qid=1589462241&sr=8-7)
Total cost £324. Plus the cost of a fan which I will get once it's arrived and I've looked into it more.
Advice on good filament so I can order some at the same time much appreciated.
Thanks (will also look at other UK stockists to see if they have printer cheaper)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=991254;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=991258;image) These "vibration dampers" are NOT intended for that purpose; they are CNC manufacturing hardware that the 3DP community has completely misunderstood the purpose of. It was invented to provide self-alignment functionality on stepper motors with 1-piece integral leadscrew. If used with a flex coupler, it allows the entire assembly to deflect under load, causing lost precision & repeatability and the ringing Jeroen3 referred to. Plus, they really make very little difference in noise factor on a properly set up linear actuator.
There's a reason CReality uses a solid coupler with just a slot to allow a few microns of flex; that is all that is needed, and it keeps the layer accuracy/repeatability very high. Adding those rubber mounts will only serve to defeat that design, while also adding offset that you'll have to adjust for.
The Trinamic drivers (and correctly setting the drive current) are really all that is needed to quiet the steppers to a very family-friendly level; where you're going to have noise issues is with the fans. They are NOT family-friendly, especially the 30mm hotend fan. |O
If you're going to spend the money on a new controller, get the touchscreen too; it'll never be cheaper than in the bundle. For everyday use, it is just SO much more civilized.
That one should have a 64x128 emulation mode, so you CAN still have the old familiar UI if you need to add display items in the firmware.
Cheers,
mnem
:-+
Hey @mnementh you want a sleeving project :palm: @Brumby could box it up and send it to you for a few sheckles :-DD eBay auction: #323516128642
The more likely case is just NFI.
Seriously. I half suspect the listing is a gag, or to torment someone.
No good here most of my Front Bench toys are too heavy ;)
Today's Fusion work in progress is a modified Laser Final mirror and Lens holder for my current little 40W one. The stock one has some known geometry issues and a lack of Lens options so this is a hybrid to use bigger Lenses and fix the geometry.
Two 3D printed parts and an Aluminium plate for the Belt and Cable Drag Train. Printing it will be the easy bit :)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987466;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987484;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987462;image)
Thanks, bean! :-+
mnem
squeeee!
No good here most of my Front Bench toys are too heavy ;)
Today's Fusion work in progress is a modified Laser Final mirror and Lens holder for my current little 40W one. The stock one has some known geometry issues and a lack of Lens options so this is a hybrid to use bigger Lenses and fix the geometry.
Two 3D printed parts and an Aluminium plate for the Belt and Cable Drag Train. Printing it will be the easy bit :)
Interesting project.
How do you print the 'optical cube' to ensure that this angle is 45o?
(Attachment Link)
Or does it matter?
I would be interested to see which orientation you print the part.
Thanks!!
Jay_Diddy_B
What isn't shown that well and I haven't added them yet is the three knurlnuts that the three mirror adjustment screws go into (EDIT found a better shot of my Laser). The 45 only needs to be in the ballpark due to the adjustment available.
So I will be reusing the Aluminium Mirror holder, partly to dump the small amount of heat the mirror losses will cause and also 'it exists' ;)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987466;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987484;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=987462;image)
Thanks, bean! :-+
mnem
squeeee!
http://www.yqcomputer.com/213_1146_3.htm#p41 (http://www.yqcomputer.com/213_1146_3.htm#p41)
no, was stuck to the bed until it finished
hmm my next test isn't going so well (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94559.0;attach=994998;image)
Yay, it's fully assembled.
First two attempts at bed levelling didn't go so good. But on my third it was almost perfect (in my eyes) see attached pic.
Bottom left (where the home position is) isn't perfect, , but the bed adjuster there feels very loose when the bed is level. I think I'll look into stronger springs.
Now for a few tests
Yay, it's fully assembled.
First two attempts at bed levelling didn't go so good. But on my third it was almost perfect (in my eyes) see attached pic.
Bottom left (where the home position is) isn't perfect, , but the bed adjuster there feels very loose when the bed is level. I think I'll look into stronger springs.
Now for a few tests
My experience with manual bed levelling is you don't want to go anywhere near "loose" on the adjusters because the vibration from the printer will shake them even further loose, which will cause the level to shift over time. If you find any are loose you want to try adjusting your Z-offset in software or moving your Z-limit switch/probe instead.
The whisps of plastic between the lower towers would be characteristic of a lack of retraction or possibly some oozing due to a high temperature for the filament in use.
I don't use Cura but have a hunt around in the Advanced Printer settings and make sure you have 2-3mm of retraction set. Also assuming the temperature is somewhere close I run 205 for the first layer then 200C for PLA from there on up so if you have 220C for example reduce it.
So process of elimination start at the ground floor then work your way up ;)
Looks like 185-190 is your sweet spot with this filament. :-+
Try a bridging test to see how well your extrusion and layer cooling are cooperating: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845/files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:476845/files)
This is the one I've been using to torture my printer and annoy my son (finished print makes a great indoor-safe projectile): https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/52/08/6f/5d/08/Bridging_Test_50.stl (https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/52/08/6f/5d/08/Bridging_Test_50.stl)
mnem
:-/O
Around 210/215C looks about on the money - as is typical for most PLAs these days.
Yeah, I've found that Fusion in particular has made great strides in their "autopatching" or whatever they call the process whereby it automatically repairs extruded/pushed/pulled faces into a single homogeneous body without voids. It can be infuriating when it refuses to do fillets the way you ask, but at least it usually doesn't create one-sided walls or delete half the model in the attempt like it used to. The horrifying part (at least to me) is that as aggravating as Fusion is, it is STILL more accessible to my mind, by at least a factor of 10, than anything else I've tried. :-\CAD and EDA generally require learning the many quirks of that specific application. They all seem to have this and it is what tends to eat up your time, at least until you get proficient. You'll need to deal with non obvious consequences of the underlying programming in pretty much all of them and it's different every time.
As a result, the one part of 3DP that keeps me from falling too deep down the rabbit-hole is having to argue with the CAD program every time I start a project; everything else in the process feels much more organic and of a linear progression. :-// Knowing that I'll inevitably spend at least 30 minutes (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=693381;image) because the software is having a screaming case of the "NO!!!"s does tend to make me evaluate my 3DP projects with much greater clarity and an eye to "Do I really NEED to make this...?" BEFORE I begin. :-DD
mnem
:blah:
Around 210/215C looks about on the money - as is typical for most PLAs these days.
I was thinking 195-200 on the 2nd sample, as long as layer adhesion is good. What are you seeing that I'm not? Seriously; I'm looking to learn here. :-//
I'm still struggling printing the first disaster I had, not sure what Cura setting I'm missing, just tried again and stopped it due to this
Hmmm... when I was playing with it hotter, I had first layer adhesion problems that drove me batty. I also had broken threads in the first layers of the bridge like HobGoblyn does. True, I'm still using the clone Build-Tak that came on my glass plate. I suppose it's time to to install the clone UltraBase and see what happens... might behave better with the E3 hotend and Fang on there now. :-//Around 210/215C looks about on the money - as is typical for most PLAs these days.
I was thinking 195-200 on the 2nd sample, as long as layer adhesion is good. What are you seeing that I'm not? Seriously; I'm looking to learn here. :-//
The increased resistance to flow at the lower temperatures causes the small pointed tower to under-extrude a little (it's not much on those photos, though). Also you get reduced layer adhesion and, IME, a little more sag on the bridging (angle in the photos can make this deceptive though) as the first layer sags from the heat of the next layer going onto it. You'd think printing hotter makes that worse, but it sticks better, so if you have adequate cooling it seems to come out better.
What's really interesting, and very hard to get photos of, is the difference in appearance with temperature and cooling. That can be fun to play with. Generally cooler gives you a matte finish, hotter glossy.
If in doubt, print a little hotter, IME.
All the recommended filament was out of stock, hence got something so that I can at least play with my new printer. On it's side lol, I can see why you're laughing. I just presumed that loading the stl into Cura would show it the right way up :)
Do you know any straightforward cause & effect type tuning guides on setting up the layer cooling speed? Max vs Regular fan speeds, and how to tell what effects you'll see with higher/lower fan speeds and how you know when you've got them right?
I'd also like to get similar a handle on the advanced Bridge Mode settings; it seems anything I change in there from the default E3 profile either does nothing that I can tell or just calls the suck and makes the print implode. :P
Cura is pretty good about giving a description in a hover-dialog for every setting; problem is a lot of the terms they refer to don't mean anything to me yet, and everything I find online is just the same basic infill/wall/skin thickness/adhesion settings over and over from different people... nobody seems to have any interest in doing a step-by-step for this stuff.
Another vote for Amazon Basics PLA/PLA+. Consistently decent, no surprises good or bad. :-+
All the recommended filament was out of stock, hence got something so that I can at least play with my new printer.Cura always imports it in the wrong orientation. Until you start depending on it, that is.
On it's side lol, I can see why you're laughing. I just presumed that loading the stl into Cura would show it the right way up :)
Printing the right way up certainly makes a difference :)
Yeah, that looks pretty nice. You're overextruding, hard to say if that's the printer or the slicer.
On the test print, probably not good enough cooling for the overhangs (try printing rotated a few different ways to catch the airflow differently), and some retraction-related zits and the like due to the bowden, but nothing unexpected.
Try and fix up the extrusion rate and carry on printing!
Thanks. How do I tell if it’s over extruding?You get extra material squished into the same space, so outside dimensions are too big and details get lost. The lid not fitting and the letters in the test getting filled up seem to both be signs of this, though it's good to test to make sure. There are very helpful guides to help you identify problems and possible causes. Note the Simplify 3D over-extrusion example is hilariously extreme.
So far I’ve been using it stock. I might add my skr mini and touch screen next.
says to use EXT3 for CR10-LCD, ...
The SKR Mini E3 comes with a pre-compiled Marlin build already configured for the Ender 3, as it's supposed to be drop-in.
If you want their fancy touch interface you need to use the port on the display marked 'RS232', which connects to the TFT header on the SKR.
The SKR Mini E3 comes with a pre-compiled Marlin build already configured for the Ender 3, as it's supposed to be drop-in.
Yes that's true. I only used the board with that firmware for my initial warm fuzzy, then I moved on to experimenting with Marlin 2.0. I then later got the touch screen and had to muck around with the port settings.
So yes the touch screen may very well work with that firmware as is. I'm just reporting what I had to do later, in case anyone else reading may want to try it. :)
If you want their fancy touch interface you need to use the port on the display marked 'RS232', which connects to the TFT header on the SKR.
Which way around on the TFT header, it can go either way.
EDIT: found YouTube vid that shows which way round it goes, see from 5:00
https://youtu.be/l1Putn10_Ek (https://youtu.be/l1Putn10_Ek)
What are they using... one of the "unofficial" 32-bit builds of 1.1.9 or somesuch on the SKR Mini E3...?
What IDE are you working in with Marlin 2.0.x...? PlatformIO, or one of the STMduino IDEs for a familiar workspace...?
OK I've followed those instructions, double checked from a few other vids and everything is wired as per instructions.
I now have my touch screen working.
However both the front and side fan on the hot end are on full power, and the fan control on the touch panel controls the main board fan lol, so I need to swap them over. But I think one of the hot end fans will still be on permanently and I'll only get control over the other (presume the side fan)
There's still a bug in that the part cooling fan "F0 % speed always shows "0%" when actually printing a model, but the fan is working fine. If you go into the menu and control it manually it does show the increase. The bug has been reported several times.
Fan speed is not reported via serial, so that's not a bug in the display.
I'm going backwards now.
If I select Merlin, I just get a green screen, only the bigtree touch side works :(
I've updated the TFT firmware to BIGTREE_TFT35_V3.0.26.1
It seemed to go fine but towards the end of updating the icons, it couldn't find various icons to update. I presumed it meant it couldn't find them on the current system hence couldn't update them, but read on.
I chose the first Copy to SD card.... NOT the Unified Menu Material Theme?
Once the update had finished, it came up with
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94559.0;attach=996552;image)
:o
mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch...*
:o
mnem
*twitch... twitch... twitcha-twitch...*
:-DD
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94559.0;attach=996769;image)
I'll read up on compiling and give it a go.
While I've not done it for about 15 years, have lost count of the number of UNIX/Linux kernels I've compiled (used to spend days installing my own custom version of Gentoo), and can also program in C, so should be able to muddle through.
I'll soon find out :)
*makes sign of the cross with fingers, hissing as I slowly back away...* ;)
mnem
This is how World War Z starts...
Hehe I followed the instructions here (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/e894j7/marlin_20x_guide_for_ender_3_using_skr_mini_e3_v12/)
(SNIP)
So I'm happy I can get it to work.
Now I need to set it up perfectly :) Now have bed levelling under Marlin (as in getting it to go to one of 4 points for traditional levelling) but no longer have printer info.
I will download Bigtrees version and compare with the Marlin version I got today and go from there (but am busy tomorrow)
Beer time :)
Hehe
I followed the instructions here (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/e894j7/marlin_20x_guide_for_ender_3_using_skr_mini_e3_v12/)
First time compiling had an error due to instead of me overwriting something with 500, I added an extra number.
Second time compiling, it failed because I had a lower case "v" 24v instead of 24V
Third time it failed with a strange adafruit error, was posting it on Reddit, when noticed the people below me had exactly the same problem, was nothing to do with me and was an easy fix, solution can be found here (https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/18081) you just change one line in platformio.ini
Forth time it compiled yay
@Monkeh: I've never traced out EXT1 & EXT2... do you know what they actually are...? I'm guessing a SPI bus for the LCD and combination of multiple ADC/Multi I/O pins for the rotary encoder & peizo spkr...?
I have the original firmware backed up on my pc and on the Microsd card that came with the SKR mini.
Have tried reflashing original and it works fine.
Oddly, flashing the original FIRMWARE.BIN, on completion it renames to FIRMWARE.CUR. Yet flashing the updated version, it leaves it on the microsd as .BIN
Has anyone printed a filter for room dust with a 3D printer yet? I have no end of dust in my "lab/office" and despite regular vacuuming it continues to gather on PCBs and projects. I would think a small HEPA filter with a fan to draw air through it could work reasonably well but I've no idea of the power required or if it would make so much noise as to be a horrible distraction.
Hi all, completely new to this so please bare with me.
Have put the Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 v1.2 and TFT35 E3 V3.0 touch screen on my new Ender Pro.
I upgraded the firmware on the SKR mini fine.
I'm trying to update the firmware on the TFT35 E3
It comes up with:
0;TFT35/bmp/HOME_MOVE.bmp
Error: BMP file not found
It does this for the following
HOME_MOVE.bmp
HEAT_FAN.bmp
MANUAL_LEVEL.bmp
COOLDOWN.bmp
STATUSNOZZLE.bmp
STATUSBED.bmp
STATUSFAN.bmp
MAINMENU.bmp
STATUS_SPEED.bmp
STATUS_FLOW.bmp
GLOBAL_NOZZLE.bmp
GLOBAL_BED.bmp
PRINTING_NOZZLE.bmp
PRINTING_BED.bmp
PRINTING_FAN.bmp
PRINTING_TIMER.bmp
PRINTING_ZLAYER.bmp
PRINTING_SPEED.bmp
PRINTING_FLOW.bmp
Infobox.bmp
on github, someone else mentions this problem and the response is
"This isn't a bug. There are differences and new icons in the development branch (master) and you will need to take note of those, or use the icons provided in the development branch."
I've tried the Master branch here (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware?fbclid=IwAR3bc-SpUk8lgFB2Npaa0VJVz-gI4FLvM7X8iNNpGw4n36lpVWxqZsVKKMA) and get the same problem.
Someone else said on github
"You can get release versions (including source code and all icons) from Releases page: here (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware/releases?fbclid=IwAR2ApvoN_ySLw9QXHbTw2b0fkwEICsfbGggsdBdGM9UT8InrGSKcc1-2M2E) "
and I've tried downloading Vx.x.26 from there and the same thing is happening.
Any suggestions please?
Many thanks
Has anyone printed a filter for room dust with a 3D printer yet? I have no end of dust in my "lab/office" and despite regular vacuuming it continues to gather on PCBs and projects. I would think a small HEPA filter with a fan to draw air through it could work reasonably well but I've no idea of the power required or if it would make so much noise as to be a horrible distraction.Check this:
I just got the firmware here -
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware
I updated using the unified menu material theme and it worked OK but for the following issue.
This time and the last time I did it these .bmp in the /TFT/bmp dir did not update -
Status_Fan
Status_Bed
Status_Nozzle
I believe I re-named them last time to this format like the other files, and they loaded -
status_fan
status_bed
status_nozzle
However I did not do it this time because the images look OK, even though it complained about them again. :-//
Poor quality control on their side.
Don't buy the 10$/kg bin and problems are gone.
If you like gambling build the printer in a way it can handle 1.75+-0.25mm and fast/easy maintenance of the hotend. Also, rewind every spool to check for thicker than 2.00 mm sections and other problems.
snip....
Hmm. I use Marlin to level the bed, do it about 10 times, get it near perfect. I then try the touch screen levelling. The home has a very very very slight catch of the paper, the other 3 corners the papers not touching the nozzle. So I spend a while levelling it with the touch screen bed leveller, get it near perfect, I then go back to Marlin and the paper is wedged solid under the levelling points.
Am I to presume if I intend to print with Marlin, I level with Marlin, and if I intend to print with the touch screen, I level with the touch screen? Just want to check something weird isn't going on. Thanks
And now things are going backwards.
The motors have gone back to being noisy, tried in Marlin and touch screen. I just reloaded the firmware that came with the BIGTREE SKR mini and the motors are still noisy AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH
And now things are going backwards.
The motors have gone back to being noisy, tried in Marlin and touch screen.
I just reloaded the firmware that came with the BIGTREE SKR mini and the motors are still noisy AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH
Mesh Bed Leveling (MBL) allows interactively measuring a Z height mesh without a bed probe. The only tool required is a piece of paper or a feeler gauge. MBL uses the mesh to compensate for variations in height across the bed.
https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html
Hmm, not sure whats going on, spent hours on this, not giving up.
I've made sure Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are almost identical to those Xrunner posted. Only differences are either comments, or things where my version has things called slightly different ...
Hmm, not sure whats going on, spent hours on this, not giving up.
I've made sure Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are almost identical to those Xrunner posted. Only differences are either comments, or things where my version has things called slightly different ...
Hmm. Maybe I didn't glean this from your post, but if you have the SKR board and the touchscreen installed, your printer (as far as the electrical components) is the same as mine (steppers, end-stops switches, fans, ...). Why don't you just use my configs as-is, and compile Marlin 2.0.5.3 and install that? If it doesn't run well and quietly, I should think you have some mechanical issues of some sort.
Sorry if you actually did that, I wasn't sure.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=94559.0;attach=999312;image) Some messing with FreeCAD (enclosure for XJW01):
I also wanted to add a handle "a-la Gainta" for carrying and adjusting the tilt, but, on the one hand, I am not a mechanical engineer (I did not understand how to make the handle rotate by hand, but at the same time it did not turn under the weight of the device) , and on the other, with such PCB layout, the BNC connectors at bottom will strike against the table.
I've just replaced my configuration.h and configaration_adv.h with yours, compiled and it took around 2 mins (if that)
Loaded it onto the printer, printer came up with EEPROM Index error, tried moving motors, still noisy. Turned printer off and back on, this time no EEPROM error, it correctly comes up with "Build 11apr20 Ready."
Motors are now WHISPER quiet on both Marlin and TFT. Many many many thanks, I should have done this when you sent them to me, but I like to try and work out why I'm going wrong :)
I get it... Instead of just using the prepackaged solution given to him by another... he wanted to know, ya know...? :-DD
I get it... Instead of just using the prepackaged solution given to him by another... he wanted to know, ya know...? :-DD
Yes I realize that. Just for a test he could try mine to eliminate issues, and of course go back and learn where the differences were. :P
That presumes I have some common sense
I love the mesh levelling.
I presume once it's done that's it, it remembers it? Reason I ask is that I forgot to heat the bed first, and when I ran the levelling again, it started at 0.00
Thinking about it, that makes kind of sense, I expected it to give me the numbers I previously dialled in.
I noticed when doing mine that sometimes when turning the knob it went up/down in increments of 0.25, other times it was 0.50.
I think I will return the SKR mini and get another one.
Has to do with this -
Note:
1.Settings about Spread: Low=StealthChop, High=SpreadCycle;
The hardware selection terminal SPREAD is reserved on the motherboard, and users can set it directly in the firmware (there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard).
It doesn't sound like it matters because -
there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard
I never set or changed the jumper on mine.
In Configuration_adv.h it's selected as shown -
/**
* TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only
* Use Trinamic's ultra quiet stepping mode.
* When disabled, Marlin will use spreadCycle stepping mode.
*/
#define STEALTHCHOP_XY
#define STEALTHCHOP_Z
#define STEALTHCHOP_E
Think I'll call it a day for now :) Might have to get the whiskey out
Yep, 3D printing isn't for the faint hearted lol.
Reminds me of my old Satellite box, was a German linux affair, took me days to get it set up, and rarely did two months pass until I had to dive in and change something (different transponder for channel etc)
My wife said that there's no way she can work out what to do when it goes wrong, and the day I die, she's throwing it away and getting a Sky box :)
Her wish has partly came true in that Sky offered me a black Friday deal I couldn't refuse.
While Sky Q is really nice, being able to customise everything on my Linux box, there are certain things I miss.
Arranging the channels exactly as I want them.
Setting skip speeds to whatever I want by pressing 1/3, 4/6, 7/9. I had it so pressing 3 skipped a minute, 6 four mins and 9 ten secs. That meant when watching something I've recorded, if an ad break comes on, pressing 6 normally skips right to the end of the adds instantly etc. I could also record at least 8 channels at once. Good fun but not at all plug and play.
I can see my 3D printing is going to be very similar :)
Luckily I enjoy a challenge
Think I'll call it a day for now :) Might have to get the whiskey out
Yea have drink and take a break - we've all had fucked-up issues like that.
Return with a hammer and beat it into submission. :box:
The spread jumper on the SKR wants to be on the bottom two pins. I think. It's XOR'd with the register, so depending on how Marlin handles it, behaviour may be less than intuitive. It's not going to forget any settings any more than it's going to erase its own firmware. They are, after all, stored in the same place.
The bed is trying to tell you it's concave. Such is the nature of alu beds mounted with four screws and springs..
I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.
I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.
I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.
Oh, did you store the data after the mesh leveling was finished? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I've forgotten to do it when I was in a hurry. Just because it finishes doesn't meant mean the data is stored. You have to scroll down a couple of lines on that same menu to "store" and push the button.
Sounds simple but you might not have done that.
Give me some spring steel and a probe over a piece of glass any day.
Haven't used my printer in over a year and when I finally had something to print the extruder stepper driver decided to die on the melzi board. Bought a ramps 1.4 kit and in the process of converting it. Hopefully setting up the firmware isn't too much of a hassle.
Blatantly stolen from elsewhere in the WWW. Programming header with POGO pins for programming Sonoff S26 GPO modules :-+ Uber specialized and niche but thats part of what is good about 3D printing. Credit to @CableTie on discord.
Blatantly stolen from elsewhere in the WWW. Programming header with POGO pins for programming Sonoff S26 GPO modules :-+ Uber specialized and niche but thats part of what is good about 3D printing. Credit to @CableTie on discord.
Yeah... I looked into the ESPeasy thing back when; wasn't sure I like the idea of turning all my kitchen appliances into a potential botnet with the ability to start fires. :-DD
mnem
*casts a prayer to Ifni for bean's sanity*
Okay... so I need to define X and Y bed size to match the build area, and X & Y min & max so moving parts of the printer can't collide with stuffs.
Does X & Y min specify where the actual build area begins on the FL corner, or is that something else...?
mnem
:-/O
Okay... so I need to define X and Y bed size to match the build area, and X & Y min & max so moving parts of the printer can't collide with stuffs.
Does X & Y min specify where the actual build area begins on the FL corner, or is that something else...?
mnem
:-/O
Ahh... I think I have it. X & Y min define that the MIN endstop switches are being used; the HOMING section defines where HOME (the beginning point of the print area) is located. Setting these to a positive number will create the offset distance from the limit switches I was wanting to set, I think.
After that I can define the build area.
Oh, and I can see that there is a place to define software MAX end stops in mm as well. :-+
Anything else I need to look out for, or is that pretty much it for my goofy build area problems...?
mnem
:-/O
// @section homing
//#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING // Inhibit movement until all axes have been homed
//#define UNKNOWN_Z_NO_RAISE // Don't raise Z (lower the bed) if Z is "unknown." For beds that fall when Z is powered off.
//#define Z_HOMING_HEIGHT 4 // (in mm) Minimal z height before homing (G28) for Z clearance above the bed, clamps, ...
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case.
// Direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
// :[-1,1]
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
// @section machine
#ifdef LK1_Pro
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 300
#define Y_BED_SIZE 300
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 400
#else //LK4_Pro
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 250
#endif
/**
* Software Endstops
*
* - Prevent moves outside the set machine bounds.
* - Individual axes can be disabled, if desired.
* - X and Y only apply to Cartesian robots.
* - Use 'M211' to set software endstops on/off or report current state
*/
// Min software endstops constrain movement within minimum coordinate bounds
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
// Max software endstops constrain movement within maximum coordinate bounds
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS) || ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM // Enable/Disable software endstops from the LCD
#endif
Okay... so this printer came with the end switches set to 0,0 over the printbed (also the start point of the print area), and this is the way they're normally set up?
I figured it was supposed to do the homing action OFF the printbed, to prevent possible crashes when homing the Z axis.
Also figured that since they have all this stuff in there, somebody was just being lazy. :-DD
mnem
There I go thinking again. :P
Makes sense. Right now I'm trying to figure out a little lateral runout issue; seems the bed is slightly off-square. As it's only ~2mm from front-back, might be able to resolve just by loosening the Y-track extrusion and retightening.
mnem
:-/O
Wellp... that was short-lived. Between me posting that and the time I actually toddled off to bed, the printer blew up. I checked on my way past to find a hairy mess; random layer shifts for ~3mm in the X-axis, then it started trying to print on air right in the middle of the bed. |O
Stopped the print, and it was totes out to lunch; it would stop in the middle of the bed thinking that was its max travel of 232mm. Same after homing and a reboot. I just turned it off and went to bed. ::)
Woke up this morning & tried it again; still exactly the same. I think I need to step away and do something completely unrelated for a while before I start doing some percussive mediation. ;)
Yea have drink and take a break - we've all had fucked-up issues like that.
Return with a hammer and beat it into submission. :box:
Both came out exactly the same, both looked perfect while on the bed
(Attachment Link)
Both came out exactly the same, both looked perfect while on the bed
(Attachment Link)
That's not a good first layer, you've got to move the bed up a bit, it's not squished enough. Don't touch the gcode nor anything in the slicer, just turn (all) the bed's adjust wheels 1/4 .. 1/2 a turn in the up direction, all the same amount and try again.
And use hair laquer, just a small puff is plenty enough.
Wellp... that was short-lived. Between me posting that and the time I actually toddled off to bed, the printer blew up. I checked on my way past to find a hairy mess; random layer shifts for ~3mm in the X-axis, then it started trying to print on air right in the middle of the bed. |O
Stopped the print, and it was totes out to lunch; it would stop in the middle of the bed thinking that was its max travel of 232mm. Same after homing and a reboot. I just turned it off and went to bed. ::)
Woke up this morning & tried it again; still exactly the same. I think I need to step away and do something completely unrelated for a while before I start doing some percussive mediation. ;)
mnem
No, I'm not going to post pictures of my FAIL. >:D
And use hair laquer, just a small puff is plenty enough.
Back to what you say, are you telling me to do that and simply try another print, or should I do that and redo my 16 point mesh levelling after? I presumed the mesh levelling was to overcome things like this? Surely if I redo my mesh levelling after raising it slightly I'm going to be in exactly the same position, or am I missing something?
Tried printing the filament guide from thingyverse (my slicing but followed guide), it would not stick on the left hand side, exactly the same place as the two squares don't stick in post 878, middle stuck firm. in the end I had to use a raft, now it's printing OK.
It's as though that one part of the bed is odd.
Back to what you say, are you telling me to do that and simply try another print, or should I do that and redo my 16 point mesh levelling after? I presumed the mesh levelling was to overcome things like this? Surely if I redo my mesh levelling after raising it slightly I'm going to be in exactly the same position, or am I missing something?
The mesh is ok and there's no need to redo it because it's an offset relative to Z=0, but at Z=0 you've got the bed too low (IOW, your Z=0 isn't at Z=0 (*)) => the first layer is being printed a bit too high / far from the bed.
If there's a "BED Z" in your MOTION menu move the bed up a smidge (I'd try with 0.15mm, a positive value moves it up, a negative value down), if there's no menu option move it up manually with the adjust wheels (1/4..1/3 turn of the wheel should be enough). But if you do it with the wheels be sure to move all the wheels exactly the same amount if not you'll be tilting the bed.
If you do use hair laquer, it's very easy to clean afterwards with plain water and a damp rag, and it always helps adhesion, but there should be no need to use it if the bed is coated ("ultrabase"), as somebody else has pointed out.
(*) At Z=0 the tip of the nozzle should be just touching the bed. Many people have this adjust wrong because after doing a "LEVEL CORNERS" with a sheet of paper you're leaving the bed 0.1mm below Z=0. Correct that by setting "BED Z" to +0.1, or move it up manually with the wheels.
Edit: Worked out whats happening, see post...
About my bed levelling.
Yesterday I manually levelled the bed, didn't need much adjustment, I did the 4 corners as in not to scale pic below
(Attachment Link)
I then did the meshlevelling and ended up with the following.
(Attachment Link)
I retried the mesh levelling a few times during the day and came up with the same (well one or two might have changed by 0.05).
So I was pretty confused when today I thought I would meshlevel again and it came up with the following.
(Attachment Link)
My initial thought was the bed must have moved a lot somehow, so I redid the 4 corner manual levelling , but it was fine. I tried the meshlevelling again, it still came up the same.
Why it went from say -0.100 yesterday to + 0.300 today, I simply do not know. But no matter how many times I do it today (with BED Z on 0.00 as it was yesterday) it comes out identical, yet I must have done it 5 times yesterday and they too were all identical, only completely different. Weird.
After a ton of tests I worked out that mine is the opposite, a positive Bed Z causes the print head to be further away from the bed, a negative one causes it to be closer.
M300 ;BEEP
M104 S130 ;NOZZLE TEMP NO WAIT
M190 S50 ;BED TEMP WAIT
M140 S60 ;BED TEMP NO WAIT
M109 S200 ;NOZZLE TEMP WAIT
G21 ;USE mm
G90 ;ABSOLUTE
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 ;ENABLE ABL
G0 F3000 ;50*60=3000 => 50 mm/s
G0 X40 Y40 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X80 Y40 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X120 Y40 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X160 Y40 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X200 Y40 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X40 Y80 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X80 Y80 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X120 Y80 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X160 Y80 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X200 Y80 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X40 Y120 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X80 Y120 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X120 Y120 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X160 Y120 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X200 Y120 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X40 Y160 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X80 Y160 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X120 Y160 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X160 Y160 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X200 Y160 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X40 Y200 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X80 Y200 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X120 Y200 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X160 Y200 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 X200 Y200 Z10
G0 Z0.1
M0 CLICK TO CONTINUE
G0 Z10
M140 S0 ;BED TEMP NO WAIT
M104 S0 ;NOZZLE TEMP NO WAIT
M18 ;DISABLE STEPPERS
M300 ;BEEP
If someone could look at my post 922 and say which looks squished right, would be greatly appreciated
If someone could look at my post 922 and say which looks squished right, would be greatly appreciated
EDIT: I notice that sometimes going into Motion/Bed Levelling on Marlin I have the "Bed Levelling on" (or off) option, other times it's not there. I've just gone from TFT to Marlin and it's not there at all. That has me worried that it could be turned off.
So under Marlin, I've rerun meshlevelling and on completion it now again shows the "Bed levelling on" option. I store it. Restart into Marlin and now there's no Bed Levelling on/off option. weird.
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 ;ENABLE ABL
Thermal expansion takes up the majority of the gap - do it cold on paper, tweak minutely afterwards to get the layer right. There's no need to mess about with a hot nozzle drooling filament all over the place.
Thermal expansion takes up the majority of the gap - do it cold on paper, tweak minutely afterwards to get the layer right. There's no need to mess about with a hot nozzle drooling filament all over the place.
The problem with that is that usually there's some solidified filament stuck in the point on the nozzle.
Which can be broken off easily. It's not so easy to remove a melted gouge from your print surface.
Which can be broken off easily. It's not so easy to remove a melted gouge from your print surface.
You're supposed to put the paper under the nozzle.
Thermal expansion takes up the majority of the gap - do it cold on paper, tweak minutely afterwards to get the layer right. There's no need to mess about with a hot nozzle drooling filament all over the place.
Thermal expansion takes up the majority of the gap - do it cold on paper, tweak minutely afterwards to get the layer right. There's no need to mess about with a hot nozzle drooling filament all over the place.If someone could look at my post 922 and say which looks squished right, would be greatly appreciated
I really can't make anything out in those photos. Low res, out of focus, and no light.
EDIT: I notice that sometimes going into Motion/Bed Levelling on Marlin I have the "Bed Levelling on" (or off) option, other times it's not there. I've just gone from TFT to Marlin and it's not there at all. That has me worried that it could be turned off.
So under Marlin, I've rerun meshlevelling and on completion it now again shows the "Bed levelling on" option. I store it. Restart into Marlin and now there's no Bed Levelling on/off option. weird.
In the printer setup (in Cura it's in Machine settings/Start Gcode) put aCode: [Select]G28 ;Home
M420 S1 ;ENABLE ABL
right after the G28 to enable mesh/ABL, because G28 disables it. There's also an option somewhere in config.h to enable ABL automatically with G28.
* - MESH_BED_LEVELING
* Probe a grid manually
* The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)
* For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform
* leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.
* With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.
*/
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL
#define MESH_BED_LEVELING
/**
* Normally G28 leaves leveling disabled on completion. Enable
* this option to have G28 restore the prior leveling state.
*/
#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28
Bed leveling problems seem to be serial number dependent, not something that everyone fights. I have literally not had to level the bed on my Ender 3 this year. I just plug a file in and it prints. I did originally have some problems until I discovered that one of the cables touched the adjusting wheel during bed traverses, slowly winding it out. A little attention to cable routing and tie down solved that.
Thermal expansion takes up the majority of the gap - do it cold on paper, tweak minutely afterwards to get the layer right. There's no need to mess about with a hot nozzle drooling filament all over the place.If someone could look at my post 922 and say which looks squished right, would be greatly appreciated
I really can't make anything out in those photos. Low res, out of focus, and no light.
I half agree, I could have got my DSLR out but there's a max of 5000KB of attachments per post.
The pics were originally 4032 x 3024 pixels, around 4500KB, I used snapit so that they could all be uploaded and compared side by side.
I zoomed in on the original before using snapit to take the 2nd and 3rd pics.
Bearing in mind it was from this type of pic I was told that my first level wasn't squished enough.
I'm looking at them on a 27" monitor, and I also know what they looked like when on the bed, so maybe I can see -0.3 is so squished in the 3rd pic that you can see the black base through it, only because I know it was when I saws it on the bed.
New bigtreetech TFT fimware available, details at link below. Worked OK for me but as always install at your own risk ... :-DD
https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware
I'm talking about a reasonably civilized GUI for the host device; maybe with capability for customization that won't break your brain. Does somebody have any decent progress on THAT...?
Yes, ESP3D: https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D
After a ton of tests I worked out that mine is the opposite, a positive Bed Z causes the print head to be further away from the bed, a negative one causes it to be closer.
Yes that's right, my bad, sorry. So BED Z is the Z at which the bed rests after a level corners. Should be (minus) the paper thickness= -0.1mm.
Try this gcode to test your saved mesh. It 1)heats the bed (to 60˚C) and nozzle (to 200˚C), 2)Does a home, 3)turns on ABL and then 4)moves the nozzle from X 40..200 Y 40..200 in a grid 40 mm apart to Z=0.1 so that you can feel the height with a paper. Click to move from a point to the next.
SNIP...
Thanks for your help, I think I will leave this for now, it appears to be working on my test prints, so I will forget about it until something goes wrong :)
Thanks for your help, I think I will leave this for now, it appears to be working on my test prints, so I will forget about it until something goes wrong :)
What I was looking for was software to run on my pi where I can use the gui on the pi it's self rather than remotely logging in from my PC.
Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth. I do NOT want everything I own connected to the intardnet. :palm: If somebody hacks my printer via bluetooth, I know I only have towalkstalk for a few hundred yards with shotgun in hand... ::)
[...] Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth [...]
I guess I just don't understand why everybody hates BT now. :-// So much wasted BW setting up a web server on a single device and direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure, when for the most part BT just WORKS. Not so much with rando implementations of a web server... |O
direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure
While I'm sure I'll find out soon enough, if I buy 4 different colours of the same brand, do I only need to tweak settings for one of them?
[...] Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth [...]
I guess I just don't understand why everybody hates BT now. :-// So much wasted BW setting up a web server on a single device and direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure, when for the most part BT just WORKS. Not so much with rando implementations of a web server... |O
Here's an advantage: you only need one browser, instead of a zillion different apps, one for each device. BTW who hates BT?Quotedirect RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure
Doesn't BT run on the same GHz band as WiFi?
Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee :-DD :-DD :-DD
Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee :-DD :-DD :-DD
There's really no way to mount an Igus bushing without a block, and even then they're very, very sensitive about alignment.I used the full plastic ones, since they were obtainable. I think I need these metal lined ones.
Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee :-DD :-DD :-DD
"back to the drawing board" ... :-//
A suggestion: check you printer's Z for repeatabilty. Delete all but the first point in the gcode I sent you, and run it a few times in a row. Maybe the end stop or something is loose?
Found the problem, very very loose. Obviously too paranoid about tightening it too much when I built it, due to plastic bracket. Will do it a lot tighter and put thread lock on it
Found the problem, very very loose. Obviously too paranoid about tightening it too much when I built it, due to plastic bracket. Will do it a lot tighter and put thread lock on itI'm sure I've seen this in "how to improve your Ender 3" videos. I think some modifications could fix the problem. I'll try to find a link later.
Z motor loose (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI4IMrTUzvE)
Found the problem, very very loose. Obviously too paranoid about tightening it too much when I built it, due to plastic bracket. Will do it a lot tighter and put thread lock on it
Z motor loose (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NI4IMrTUzvE)
Found the problem, very very loose. Obviously too paranoid about tightening it too much when I built it, due to plastic bracket. Will do it a lot tighter and put thread lock on it
Found the problem, very very loose. Obviously too paranoid about tightening it too much when I built it, due to plastic bracket. Will do it a lot tighter and put thread lock on it
Yeah that's not good, LOL. In a CR10S I bought recently, the screws of the "nuts" in the brackets at both ends of the X axis, where the Z threaded rod screws on to, weren't tight. Have you also checked those?
I have found that a sharp knife inserted at the part line between the support and the object results in a clean peel. I do usually use zig-zag support with connected option. Once you get the first support line separated it peels the rest off like a zipper. You seem to have used a grid (or maybe cross) pattern.
On a separate note: things like fan housings for the printer, can they be made in PLA?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=975808;image)On a separate note: things like fan housings for the printer, can they be made in PLA?
Yep. Mine is. There are lots of fan housings and cooling ducts available on Thiniverse.
I've been watching a print of the cheap PLA, and noticed something. When the PLA is taught, every now and then it's pushing in the extrude filament release bit as it tugs from the spool.
Maybe I'm wasting my time printing filament guide and should instead print something to move my spool elsewhere. Have to do this at some point to fit into the space (don't want shelf any higher).
Pic doesn't show how much space there is behind printer very well, but if I move spool away from top, can push printer back about 10 cm (4 inches)
(Attachment Link)
On a separate note: things like fan housings for the printer, can they be made in PLA?I printed a few PETG fan shrouds for the prusa but they last about 20 print hours. Can't print ABS, so bought some new ABS ones fro prusa and tried printing one with PET-HT (HT5300 (https://www.3djake.nl/nexeo/amphoratm-ht5300-white)), which aside from difficult prints works just as good as ABS!
Getting a little frustrating now :)
The USB-microSD adapter supplied by with Ender3 has died for me also. I am quite happy with my Ender3, but when you aim for absolute bottom price point things can't be first rate in quality.
Two steps forward, one step backwards as usual for me :-DD
After my hang (which was just the SD card) it had sat there at 205 degrees for about 2 hours.
End result, back to juddering extruder and really hard to push filament through hot end.
So I ordered some Capricorn tubing and took the hot end to pieces to make sure there was zero gunk in it. There was about 1cm of solid gunk stuck in the end of the bowden tube.
Everything clean, new nozzle, new pneumatic nut supplied with the capricorn, put it all back together and printer halts as soon as I turn it on with thermal runnout error. Removed thermistor and heater again and spotted the problem straight away. When I tightened the thermister screw it's pierced both sides of the insulation grrrrr
Will order some from amazon. Presume using heat shrink on a hot end is a very bad idea.
I will get there, it's not going to beat me :)
Two steps forward, one step backwards as usual for me :-DD
After my hang (which was just the SD card) it had sat there at 205 degrees for about 2 hours.
End result, back to juddering extruder and really hard to push filament through hot end.
So I ordered some Capricorn tubing and took the hot end to pieces to make sure there was zero gunk in it. There was about 1cm of solid gunk stuck in the end of the bowden tube.
Everything clean, new nozzle, new pneumatic nut supplied with the capricorn, put it all back together and printer halts as soon as I turn it on with thermal runnout error. Removed thermistor and heater again and spotted the problem straight away. When I tightened the thermister screw it's pierced both sides of the insulation grrrrr
Will order some from amazon. Presume using heat shrink on a hot end is a very bad idea.
I will get there, it's not going to beat me :)
Well, as the SKR mini appears to have a EXP1 port, I imagine one COULD test it with a standard RAMPS LCD. But I don't know if the E3 LCD/Encoder pinout is the same as the standard RAMPS pinout...?
I know that the whole shebang is supposed to be a drop-in replacement; I wasn't sure if the mainboard alone is. The pics are a bit confusing what with the "Normal LCD" and "CR-10 LCD" ports on the back of the LCD. :-//
So the question becomes what was faulty, the SKR, the LCD, or the firmware configuration of one of the two?
Interestingly, I asked the same question in the Creality face book group.
A few of the replies
"I had 2 skr mini e3 had 1 with a faulty board when I ordered from amazon and the replacement had a faulty screen so returned them and got the ezboard from th3d"
"I had a faulty skr mini too but I was able to get a refund immediately and bought another one."
"I read so many broken skr mini reviews, I just went creality silent board and happy with my choice"
"There’s the Th3d board, but I don’t recommend th3d products."
"Go with a duet3d WiFi board 64bit processor and all wireless!"
What I love about 3D printing is the speed and ease of those test fits. Using conventional shop tools the prototype takes about as long, but much more effort. Subtractive mods to the prototype are faster than printing an update, but making a second copy is just as bad as the first. And additive mods mean starting over. Once you nail the design down almost no effort is required to get more copies off the printer.(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1011422;image)
I did it the lazy way. Sketched 3 concentric lines, a couple pulls, a quick chamfer. A minute or two at most, even for me. ;)
Problems with limits of a 0.40 nozzle vs fit on tiny, densely populated PCBs now have me on redesign #3. I got the ID of the sleeve good on the 2nd try; I kept having to make the large shoulder smaller and thicker to make clearance for this or that which I couldn't see until I was actually fitting the board. |O
Rendering STL now; then off to make another test print.
mnem
:popcorn:
I got the ID of the sleeve good on the 2nd try; I kept having to make the large shoulder smaller and thicker to make clearance for this or that which I couldn't see until I was actually fitting the board. |O
I'm doing some maintenance on my Ender 3, and as I paid more attention on the power connections, I noticed that the XT60 connectors used to join the PSU and the controller are such that themaleehm... plug is on the PSU side and the socket on the board side.
Checking through a few YT videos that show them, it seems that's the standard way Creality mounts them.
Why is that? Usually isn't so that the connector that provides power should be as protected as possible from accidental shorts, etc. and so use the socket type (as actually it seems to happen with all LiPo batteries) ?
I'm doing some maintenance on my Ender 3, and as I paid more attention on the power connections, I noticed that the XT60 connectors used to join the PSU and the controller are such that themaleehm... plug is on the PSU side and the socket on the board side.
Checking through a few YT videos that show them, it seems that's the standard way Creality mounts them.
Why is that? Usually isn't so that the connector that provides power should be as protected as possible from accidental shorts, etc. and so use the socket type (as actually it seems to happen with all LiPo batteries) ?
I would say that's because, as I pointed out previously (and got a lot of hate for..), Creality have a sore lack of actual engineers. Monkey see, monkey do, just slightly better quality than the other monkeys.
I'm doing some maintenance on my Ender 3, and as I paid more attention on the power connections, I noticed that the XT60 connectors used to join the PSU and the controller are such that themaleehm... plug is on the PSU side and the socket on the board side.
Checking through a few YT videos that show them, it seems that's the standard way Creality mounts them.
Why is that? Usually isn't so that the connector that provides power should be as protected as possible from accidental shorts, etc. and so use the socket type (as actually it seems to happen with all LiPo batteries) ?
I would say that's because, as I pointed out previously (and got a lot of hate for..), Creality have a sore lack of actual engineers. Monkey see, monkey do, just slightly better quality than the other monkeys.
If you think 'hate' was what you got for making GROSS SWEEPING Generalizations then as you are clearly a 16 year old and have been online for two minutes you should look at your choices. ;)
Again you make a CLAIM of a Sore lack of Engineers. Please inform the Audience how many Engineers Creality has and then proceed to tell us how many they should have?
LOL... well, yes; it IS called "Hobbyist 3DP" for a reason. :-DDI don't think any real turnkey solutions exist, other than paying someone else to go through the motions.
If you want to escape the "hobbyist" aspect, you need to get into "Additive Process Manufacturing". Be prepared to bring a fat checkbook or mortgage the kids; those turnkey solutions have corporations, CEOs and their families to support. ;)
mnem
:popcorn:
My colleagues are reporting on results from machines that are paying for mortgages, yachts and Carribean vacations. More stable? Yes. Easier to use? Maybe. Things like cartridge loading and multiple print heads. But they still find that it isn't like printing ten more copies of the quarterly report.
My colleagues are reporting on results from machines that are paying for mortgages, yachts and Carribean vacations. More stable? Yes. Easier to use? Maybe. Things like cartridge loading and multiple print heads. But they still find that it isn't like printing ten more copies of the quarterly report.
Well no... I'm not talking about printer farms and serving orders from ThingiVerse; I'm talking about Additive Manufacturing that is being used in industry in place of conventional molded parts, like automobile manufacture. The term "turnkey" there is a service includes a small army of people whose job it is to set up, maintain and manage the hardware, as well as to turn somebody's 3D modeling into a part that can be produced economically via Additive Manufacturing.
Yes, it is already happening.
mnem
:popcorn:
That's not really the common definition of turnkey. It would mean buying an Ariane 5 rocket is also turnkey. ;DMy colleagues are reporting on results from machines that are paying for mortgages, yachts and Carribean vacations. More stable? Yes. Easier to use? Maybe. Things like cartridge loading and multiple print heads. But they still find that it isn't like printing ten more copies of the quarterly report.
Well no... I'm not talking about printer farms and serving orders from ThingiVerse; I'm talking about Additive Manufacturing that is being used in industry in place of conventional molded parts, like automobile manufacture. The term "turnkey" there is a service includes a small army of people whose job it is to set up, maintain and manage the hardware, as well as to turn somebody's 3D modeling into a part that can be produced economically via Additive Manufacturing.
Yes, it is already happening.
mnem
:popcorn:
I've had a week off due to other things.
I've put the SKR V2 board in and it's working fine (the board that is)
I've managed to ding the center of my magnetic bed so have the Creality glass one in a box next to me.
I've bought another TFT screen same one as before {originally bought in package with SKR 1.2 which I returned due to fault).
I've put a dual extruder on and followed a guide by Luke Hatfield on fixing the hot end clogging.
I now have zero extrusion problems and have calibrated my esteps, went from 93 to 143.5. If I put a black line on filament 100mm behind extruder and fees 100mm through hot end, black line lines up with extruder perfectly.
I also calibrated my x axis according to a guide, where both sides measure exactly the same from the top (mind you I would have thought it's more important to line up with the bottom)
I had the x belt and the screw thread removed, all sides now moving up and down (and left and right) perfectly, not too loose, not too tight. When I remnoved the x belt, moving it left to right I noticed the head stopping every full rotation of the wheels as though one had a nick in. I swapped them around and it's gone away (will order some spares).
And I put it together, did a test print and it's perfect.
Then I did another and it wouldn't stick
I'm having levelling problems again. I can do 4 corner levelling 5 times in a row, 4 times it will be perfect, one time it will be to high.
I've noticed that the right hand side x axis bracket, when it homes, it moves slightly and the bottom wheel is not touching (all hex nuts tight), this is after I've already gone through adjusting this when I did the x axis calibration.
I also notice that if I push the right hand up with a tiny amount of pressure with one finger, it rises by a couple of mm, I presume something isn't right.
Tomorrow I'm taking the entire thing to pieces, reassembling and making sure every bit is square. I have also bought a BLtouch and will fit at the same time.
As a last resort I could fit a 2nd z axis but will see how I go.
Will let you know :)
The entire point of this build material is that when you tighten it all down it self-squares at those end joints.
The best way to get a true and square frame is with end-joints like most modern extrusion-frame 3DPs use. Angle bracket are a waste of time; whether plates or machined the simply have no rigidity compared to a properly machined end-joint. They can be helpful in conjunction with; but they are no replacement for a properly made end-joint.
The problem is, if I put a flat edge over the top of the pieces that the vertical bits screw down on, the middle is higher than the outsides. Hard to explain, will record a short vid and show you. This is why tightening the screws pull it so far out of true, both screws are either side of the middle and it’s effectively pivoting On the middle depending on which screw is tightened more.
The best way to get a true and square frame is with end-joints like most modern extrusion-frame 3DPs use. Angle bracket are a waste of time; whether plates or machined the simply have no rigidity compared to a properly machined end-joint. They can be helpful in conjunction with; but they are no replacement for a properly made end-joint.
They are not a waste of time if you're not relying on them for rigidity. I never said they were the better solution for a floppy open-frame.
I will of course bow to your deep experience and direct knowledge of the Creality factory and practices.. and still maintain that at this price point expecting a properly square frame every time is optimistic at best.
That said, it's also best not to rely on cheap tools to square a frame. A lot of typical squares in DIY shops are anything but, tapes are easily fooled, and even a rule can rapidly mislead you.
It's warped coming out of the die. That's not exactly uncommon for 2040 extrusion. To Creality's credit, they machined the mating surfaces on the CR-6 to fix that.
A little cautious work with a file could achieve the same result for you, it probably won't look pretty.
It's warped coming out of the die. That's not exactly uncommon for 2040 extrusion. To Creality's credit, they machined the mating surfaces on the CR-6 to fix that.
A little cautious work with a file could achieve the same result for you, it probably won't look pretty.
What you're describing would be either process control issues with the extrusion or more likely, a worn-out die being used far beyond its intended life cycle. The dies tend to wear from the central core outwards, and that wear can be nonlinear. This would make the center rib(s) larger than they should be.
I would agree it is probable even CReality got a bad batch of extrusion from a supplier; likely more than once. There's so much of it coming from every corner of China and so much demand; with turnover like that I'm sure it's hard to make sure every single length of extrusion is good.
Here'sá 6 sec vid showing what I mean
I see an asymptotic progression from you two... heading towards a similar point from opposite sides. You're never going to meet until we get down to quantum dimensions - and even the there will be uncertainty.I doubt you'll ever meet when arguing with mnem, unless you just agree. ;D
I see an asymptotic progression from you two... heading towards a similar point from opposite sides. You're never going to meet until we get down to quantum dimensions - and even the there will be uncertainty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw-_-Uw1wxM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw-_-Uw1wxM)
Here's á 6 sec vid showing what I mean
Never noticed that here but I did check all those types of rails just now - all OK. Yea that might cause a problem ... :--
Yeah, that extrusion just plain blows goats. Literally not fit for purpose, as it's supposed to be V-Groove OpenBuilds type extrusion. :palm:
Didn't usedta be. :-// 8020 was always Xed-out to the center; some series had a 5th screw hole. I remember the walls being thicker too...? I guess, like everything else; a victim of the race to the bottom... ::)I trawled through a pile of images of 8020 and I couldn't find a single example of a dual V-slot stock with a core. The quality of the 8020 doesn't seem to be the issue here. :P
Still no excuse for that V-Groove being made that way; whether poor QC or just plain poor design it simply isn't fit for purpose. :-// I suppose post-extrusion processing could restore the correct geometry to that profile, but I wouldn't want to have to be the guy who manages that QC process; it would be an exercise in misery. |O
mnem
Like beating your knee with a monkey wrench cuz it feels so good when you stop... :o
Yeah, that extrusion just plain blows goats. Literally not fit for purpose, as it's supposed to be V-Groove OpenBuilds type extrusion. :palm:
That is the same profile as Openbuilds 4040. Excepting the V-slot, it's also basically the same profile as 4040 from 8020 (could their name be any more annoying?). (https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-itwgldve/images/stencil/608x608/products/229/4654/v-slot_40x40_blakc__47081.1556021291.png?c=2) (https://8020.net/media/catalog/product/cache/image/700x560/e9c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/2/0/20-4040-black-fb_photo.png)
Hmmm... looking closer over my morning cuppa... I wonder if the sharper corners and that groove down the spine of the OpenBuilds is more than just rendering turd-polish. Have you actually seen any genuine OpenBuilds extrusion firsthand? Does it have that groove? Might be evidence of more sophisticated extrusion process or possibly post-processing to prevent this phenomenon.
Wondering how much did you pay for this to a reputable supplier?
I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.
Wondering how much did you pay for this to a reputable supplier?
I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.
Wondering how much did you pay for this to a reputable supplier?
I have here an offcut of 2040 V-Slot from a reputable supplier. The centre core measures 19.95mm, the total width is 39.90mm, the 'wings' 19.76mm aross their full width and 19.6mm for the last mm or so. The widest inside dimension of the slots is specced out at 11mm - on the 40mm face, this measures exactly 11.00mm on my samples. On the 20mm face, it measures 10.89mm. The main opening is specified at 6.25mm, on the 40mm face it's 6.4mm, on the 20mm, 6.27mm.
Look up the price of Openbuilds extrusions..
What 3D printer do people recommend in the <4k range? I was considering a Formlabs Form 3, but the build size is a bit small for a general purpose printer and it's limited to resin.
No strong requirements, but I would like something where I don't have to spend a lot of fiddling getting it to print with reasonable repeatability. I would also like to print PVDF for parts that require PVDF's chemical resistance.
Not sure what the state on 3D printing threads nowadays is, but not having to tap the finished part or use inserts would be nice.
Do you mean like this https://ooznest.co.uk/product/v-slot-linear-rail-20x20mm-cut-to-size/ ?
There are quite bold statements, understandable who a target audience, but still...
They mentioned their extrusion done from 6063 T-5, in my understanding is an economy alloy and cheap, what you would expect then, especially "These extrusions are manufactured in the UK." :o?!
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal. :-//
That's like asking "What motor vehicle under 4K is best for me?"
Kindof need more info on what you actually plan to do with it before we can even hazard a guess. :-//
mnem
:popcorn:
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal. :-//
I stated my measurements - which are in line with what HobGoblyn demonstrated. I've no need for a resolution as no part of my present usage of it depends on that face.
So you're saying it has similarly proud center rail to the 40x40 we were talking about? Yeah; still not fit for purpose. I mean yeah, 7 thou is nowhere near as bad as what HobGoblyn showed us, but still... if I'd bought any quantity of that, and had the kind of problems as he's having getting things square, I'd probably raise holy hell with the supplier. If it was OpenBuilds, I'd expect a resolution... other sources; probably not, and have to open a ticket with PayPal. :-//
I stated my measurements - which are in line with what HobGoblyn demonstrated. I've no need for a resolution as no part of my present usage of it depends on that face.
I'm going to pick one little nit here... what you measured is roughly .007 inch proud; less than the thickness of 2 sheets of the really cheap, thin copier paper. That would not even be visible in HobGoblyn's demonstration. What he shows is more like 20-30 thou, maybe more.
As I stated above; after looking at the math, that would result in at most around 1-2mm runout at 400mm length; little enough that I'd probably just tweak it during assembly. :-//
mnem
:popcorn:
Most of the rest of the print looked OK except for a layer shift in the final layer (and can also see a layer shift about 1/2 way up everywhere. I'm not sure whether this may well have something to do with the nozzle clunking across the print rather than some other problem.
Is that the original bowden or have you put a direct drive extruder?
First thing I'd try is halving the max acceleration settings, to give more time to the extruder to do its thing better, properly, especially when approaching turns/corners and stops. As I've said before, the extruder (proper extrusion) is the most problematic / difficult thing to get right, IMHO.
Too low x/y stepper driver currents, and or too high acceleration, might also produce layer shifts.
Most of the rest of the print looked OK except for a layer shift in the final layer (and can also see a layer shift about 1/2 way up everywhere. I'm not sure whether this may well have something to do with the nozzle clunking across the print rather than some other problem.
I ran into layer shifts a long time ago and did a lot of research on that. It turned out that I needed to set my jerk to 10 mm/s instead of 20 mm/s. After that the layer shifts were gone. Jerk setting is in the Speed settings area. You may have to open the full Settings menu to see it - Preferences - Configure Cura - Settings - Jerk.
IOW, that default 50 mm/s is too high a speed for the bowdens in these printers, ...
IOW, that default 50 mm/s is too high a speed for the bowdens in these printers, ...
In your opinion it might be too high, but mine's been at 50 mm/s ever since I got it and I have no problems with that speed with the bowden. I have beautiful prints when there isn't the occasional other random problem we all encounter from time to time.
Perhaps that's what you think, but even the atmega that comes built in can't keep up at those speeds... so maybe you think it was printing at 50 mm/s but it wasn't.
Perhaps that's what you think, so maybe you think it can't print at 50 mm/s but it was.
Perhaps that's what you think, so maybe you think it can't print at 50 mm/s but it was.
Don't you ever see any hiccups?
If it's set to 50 mm/s, and it's just able to physically do some slower speed that the software doesn't know about (but thinks it's actually doing 50 mm/s), then is the print going to come out OK? :-//
Is that the original bowden or have you put a direct drive extruder?
First thing I'd try is halving the max acceleration settings, to give more time to the extruder to do its thing better, properly, especially when approaching turns/corners and stops. As I've said before, the extruder (proper extrusion) is the most problematic / difficult thing to get right, IMHO.
Too low x/y stepper driver currents, and or too high acceleration, might also produce layer shifts.
Replaced original with This one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Now I'm thinking, do I go for another Ender pro or something else :-DD
As I have until 31st July to return my Ender Pro to Amazon, I'm seriously thinking about returning it as faulty and getting another one.
Someone on Crealities facebook has the same problem as I've got and he says
"I have the same issue also... Frustrates the hell out of me. Have to take it apart again as my previous fixes with aluminium tape (layers of it between extrucions) has given up. 🤔 Had huge deviations when i had tighten all up. I do the check regularly as it has given me problems with Z-gantry and causes a lot of problems"
Sure I could use steel shims or file/grind the v extrusion, but I shouldn't have to.
But when I've had the printer 58 days and out of that 58 days, so far I've only managed to print a few temp towers, various layer tests (most of those I had problems with) , a small armadillo and a small smurf, and when others say their Ender 3 is flat hence self aligns properly, I kind of feel like I've got a dud.
I have a feeling that my current printer is going to become an ongoing nightmare, decisions decisions
Now I'm thinking, do I go for another Ender pro or something else :-DDStaying out of this one. :-DD
XY-axis positioning precision: +/- 0.01:o
QuoteXY-axis positioning precision: +/- 0.01:o
Is there any proof or this just a number from somebody head?
re: CR-6 SEQuoteXY-axis positioning precision: +/- 0.01:o
Is there any proof or this just a number from somebody head?
Hehe, the cr6 se looks nice, but I can’t preorder until august and creality are currently listing the preorder price at $999
There were two CR10 V2 available an hour ago, one has already gone, I succumbed to temptation and got the other one :) Cost me £15 more than the Ender 3 refund, couldn't resist
There were two CR10 V2 available an hour ago, one has already gone, I succumbed to temptation and got the other one :) Cost me £15 more than the Ender 3 refund, couldn't resist
So now the question is, what are you getting yourself into with an open box one? :)
Yeah... let's hope NOT one that was returned for the same assache you just put to rest. :palm:
mnem
If you're going to risk assache, at least try to make it a new assache.
My own design does that, not heat proof but the body that goes inside is cold and no damage is made to the plastic:
Also if you want you can use reflective tape to heat proof it easy
If you have a printer you can print yourself.
And i can customize spacing, rows, cols for you if you want
I don't see why people get hung up on the noise 3D Printers make, my E3 is in the same room I live in which is about 15ft square
and when it's running I just go about my daily business which includes watching movies.
Maybe some fans are faulty but honestly my E3 is really unobtrusive when it's running.
Changing the fan and making new cover seems a lot of hassle for negligible drop in noise.
@HobGoblyn save a few quid for a direct drive.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/products/Micro_Swiss_Extruder_with_Hotend_b9d5a8dc-390a-4112-866f-7f6f2784d22c_480x480.png?v=1589642986)
There are a few to choose from, microswiss is the most expensive of them all.
As the Ender 3 (Pro) has rather noisy fans, I've seen some projects that aim to replace the MeanWell PSU fan with a larger (and slower and hence quieter) one.
But because of larger hole needed, the original metal PSU cover has to be replaced by a 3D-printed one (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4503364 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4503364) )
What do you think about this kind of mods (esp. safety-wise) ? Personally, I wouldn't feel 100% comfortable leaving a printer running for long time in that state.
I don't see why people get hung up on the noise 3D Printers make, my E3 is in the same room I live in which is about 15ft square and when it's running I just go about my daily business which includes watching movies. Maybe some fans are faulty but honestly my E3 is really unobtrusive when it's running. Changing the fan and making new cover seems a lot of hassle for negligible drop in noise.
Someones printed a bracket allowing you to move the extruder right over the hot end for the V2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096)
...If you're going to risk assache, at least try to make it a new assache.
Hehe. I would have got there in the end with the Ender 3, but I didn't see why I should be replacing parts, or spending hours more of my time just trying to get it to work right (not talking about tweaking Cura etc, I'm talking about when I run 5 point bed level a few times in a row, and some times it's spot on, and sometimes there's about 3mm gap)
I'm usually excellent at fixing things, just got to the point where after 50 odd days, and with only 2 weeks left to return it, returning it was the best course of action, a replacement machine is a fresh start for me :)
Amazon is currently listing the CR10 V2 for £469 (I know it can be got a bit cheaper elsewhere), so paying £15 more than the £279 they refunded me for my Ender 3, even if I ended up having to replace a couple of bits, I doubt they would come anywhere near to the £175 price difference. The description said quote "Like New - Item will come in original packaging. Packaging will be damaged".
If I needed to, I can get the Vframe easy enough in the UK, just checked prices on one site and for 650mm upright it's £9.83, for 550mm that uprights screws into, it's only £8.32 (inc VAT + £2.63 postage), motors are available on Amazon for next day delivery for £10 etc. And of course can probably get them much cheaper if I get elsewhere.
My point being, when I get a saving like this, I'm not too bothered if something is damaged as it's easily replaceable for very little money (already have brand new SKR V2 board, TFT V3 screen and BLTouch).
I do have a spare creality glass bed though if anyone (in UK) wants it, used just for a couple of days while I did those level tests.
It's all the fault of sn4k3 :-DD I was happily learning my electronics hobby when I made a post about soldering iron tip stand and he said:Quote from: sn4k3My own design does that, not heat proof but the body that goes inside is cold and no damage is made to the plastic: Also if you want you can use reflective tape to heat proof it easy If you have a printer you can print yourself.And i can customize spacing, rows, cols for you if you want
I'd always wanted a printer, but him saying that was what pushed me into getting one now :-DD
Someones printed a bracket allowing you to move the extruder right over the hot end for the V2
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4032096)
That's a good thing for starters...
But later you will want a smaller stepper than that because after the conversion it's going to become an added dead weight on the carriage, but a smaller stepper has less torque => you want one that comes with a reduction gear (to multiply the torque of the now less torquey stepper), like for example a bondtech: https://www.bondtech.se/en/ (https://www.bondtech.se/en/)
There are many others, and copies too, in aliexpress, banggood etc.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cr10+direct+drive (https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cr10+direct+drive)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1024978;image)
Yeah, multiple stories like this one are why I've never personally been too keen on "Titan quality". :-// Making a load-bearing part of brittle plastic, and not changing the design when it proves problematic, is not my idea of customer responsiveness.
mnem
:-/O
There is just so much bad engineering there... it makes me cringe. Big bearing bore, thin walls, screws that hold the entire weight of the assembly going through it and no metal reinforcements... needs twice that mass in plastic, and even then would still probably break under some people's heavy hand.
The right way to fix it would be a CNC AL plate with a peephole where the filament goes between the pinion/roller. Done and done, plus you can tighten it enough to keep from shaking loose without worrying about grenading the plastic. But then, once you start CNC-ing, you start thinking about the lever, and the base, and... :palm:
mnem
Bah. I'm with Brumby... time to take up knitting. :-\
There is just so much bad engineering there... it makes me cringe. Big bearing bore, thin walls, screws that hold the entire weight of the assembly going through it and no metal reinforcements... needs twice that mass in plastic, and even then would still probably break under some people's heavy hand.
The right way to fix it would be a CNC AL plate with a peephole where the filament goes between the pinion/roller. Done and done, plus you can tighten it enough to keep from shaking loose without worrying about grenading the plastic. But then, once you start CNC-ing, you start thinking about the lever, and the base, and... :palm:
mnem
Bah. I'm with Brumby... time to take up knitting. :-\
.. but they didn't break because of being brittle (again, it's not a brittle material) or people being heavy handed, they broke because the bearing lubricant attacked the plastic.
There's something odd on this forum when posting pics. I've cleared my browser cashe, reloaded the page and most the pics are wrong. I've just spent ages redoing it and as soon as I clear my cashe and reload, they go wrong again (first noticed this when I accessed forum from a different device.
Post 1179 should show a badly drawn example of how my offset wheels are, it now shows my pig.
Post 1180 is correct
Post 1183, the last 2 pics ace correct, the first two now show the pigs from post 1180.
All the uploaded pics have completely different names, really weird.
There's something odd on this forum when posting pics. I've cleared my browser cashe, reloaded the page and most the pics are wrong. I've just spent ages redoing it and as soon as I clear my cashe and reload, they go wrong again (first noticed this when I accessed forum from a different device.
Post 1179 should show a badly drawn example of how my offset wheels are, it now shows my pig.
Post 1180 is correct
Post 1183, the last 2 pics ace correct, the first two now show the pigs from post 1180.
All the uploaded pics have completely different names, really weird.
Yes, things are a bit broken, it's been going on a while.
Tons of stringing, any advice?
Wow yes, a good suggestion I suspect.QuoteTons of stringing, any advice?
A blowtorch...
Well after seeing the misery HobGoblyn suffered with his, not sure I do either. :o But at least ordering from there you KNOW you're not getting some 3rd-party franchisee manufactured unit. :-//
mnem
:-/O
I have to say, when I spent 50 odd days with my ender 3 pro, I was getting a little disillusioned, thinking I was on a road to nowhere.
Since returning it and getting the CR10 v2, it has never needed levelling past the first time. Even when I tilted it, placed it on it's side etc to trace the wiring, when I put it back upright and did a level test, nothing needed adjusting it was all perfectly in place.
I read facebook posts of people having problem after problem, others say they've never had problems, I''m convinced there's simply some badly made printers out there.
I've had my first failure on my CR10 v2 today, a print taking up all 300mm of the bed, the corners lifted. Bed was only 50 degrees, I suspect the heat doesn't get to the edges so hopefully increasing bed temp will fix it.
I have to say, when I spent 50 odd days with my ender 3 pro, I was getting a little disillusioned, thinking I was on a road to nowhere.
Since returning it and getting the CR10 v2, it has never needed levelling past the first time. Even when I tilted it, placed it on it's side etc to trace the wiring, when I put it back upright and did a level test, nothing needed adjusting it was all perfectly in place.
I read facebook posts of people having problem after problem, others say they've never had problems, I''m convinced there's simply some badly made printers out there.
I've had my first failure on my CR10 v2 today, a print taking up all 300mm of the bed, the corners lifted. Bed was only 50 degrees, I suspect the heat doesn't get to the edges so hopefully increasing bed temp will fix it.
Had similar problems with the Tornado; waiting an extra 15 minutes after bed came up to temp for it to equalize across the entire surface (confirmed it took this long with infra-thermometer) and added ~2-3mm brim around the print fixed it. You can also set it so the brim stops just before the print; just set it one line's worth. With the squish, this makes it hair thin so it still holds, but peels off the part easier.
Don't preheat your hotend; let the gcode handle that.
I also have no compunctions about using hairspray if a large print fails and tries to fuck with my head; IMO, if it works, it's not a crutch. :-+
mnem
*toddles off to ded*
Hairspray and turn the bed temp up a bit?
I had the Creality glass bed, and I didn't think it was that great as far as parts sticking to it. Last year I wanted to get a different glass bed to try. I ordered one like this -
Mystery Glass bed (https://www.ebay.com/itm/235X235mm-Glass-Print-Bed-3D-Printer-Plate-For-Ender-3-Ender-5-Ender-3-Pro/333632328201?epid=19035911574&hash=item4dae095209:g:rsoAAOSwOUNe8HLw)
NOTE: At least those are the same set of pictures as the one I bought. I can't say for sure because there is no brand name on it or on the box it came in. It's a mystery maker.
But, what I wanted to say was, it's performance is FAR better than the Creality bed as far as parts sticking. I've looked at the surfaces of the two and they are not the same prepared surface. The Creality bed is "shiny" and this one isn't. I can't say more than that because I have no objective way to compare them other than printing on them.
But as I said - the unlabelled bed has been working extremely well for me for a year - no parts sticking issues.
Well I finally beat it (2.0.6) into submission. It finally compiled and left me a .bin file that worked. Eh - it did have a few yellow accentuated grumblings of a few items it reported that didn't sit well with the compiler, but apparently they didn't matter much. :-DD
It's printing out one of the N scale containers for my model railroad now - looks perfectly fine. :box:
Well I finally beat it (2.0.6) into submission. It finally compiled and left me a .bin file that worked. Eh - it did have a few yellow accentuated grumblings of a few items it reported that didn't sit well with the compiler, but apparently they didn't matter much. :-DD
It's printing out one of the N scale containers for my model railroad now - looks perfectly fine. :box:
Thanks for taking one for the team on this one, x. :-DD
I think I'll just linger on known-working builds of 1.9.x until my CR6-SE arrives. :scared:
Seems an area ripe for research for a unified "this is the Final Solution" build plate surface. :-//
Yeah; as long as you have mesh leveling. Which just trades bottom surface imperfections for those generated by constantly moving the Y-axis, and adds Ifni-knows-how-much wear & tear on rollers & cheap-ass leadscrews already known to be pretty loosey-goosey. (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=971254;image)
mnem
I just can't WAIT till mine gets here!!! >:D
Yeah; as long as you have mesh leveling. Which just trades bottom surface imperfections for those generated by constantly moving the Y-axis, and adds Ifni-knows-how-much wear & tear on rollers & cheap-ass leadscrews already known to be pretty loosey-goosey. (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=971254;image)
mnem
I just can't WAIT till mine gets here!!! >:D
Or, y'know, you could put it on a decently flat bed to begin with ;)
Or, y'know, you could put it on a decently flat bed to begin with ;)
Which is not reasonable to expect from a flex build plate. If there's one thing hardened ferrous metal loves to do, it's move when heat is applied.
YouTube tutorials? But I thought ...I ain't catching that flak twice! :-[
I ain't catching that flak twice! :-[
Trouble with YouTube 3D printer tutorials and Facebook is that few agree with one another. I originally turned on the combing as suggested by one site, yet on Facebook I was advised to turn it off (which did help for this roll of filament).
Just checked in on the CR-6SE KickStarter.They already got your money. You're not going anywhere. That's one of the downsides of these Kickstarter type deals. We've even seen companies selling to new customers in a desperate bid to stay afloat while Kickstarter orders were pushed further and further into the future.
The shipping BS just gets deeper and more convoluted. Now they're telling us all the people who JUST ordered a printer will go out first. They keep crowing about how "Everybody in the US has shipped" and "Everybody in the UK has shipped". UNLESS you had add-ons. So... the guys who spent first and spent most... get theirs absolutely the last. :palm:
If it weren't for the fact I'm moving right now and have no idea where I am going to be at the end of the month... I'd be REALLY annoyed by now.
Oh, and there are resellers in the Philippines who are already selling theirs retail. ::)
mnem
"Since I gave up all hope; life is so much better. I used to be constantly disgusted; now I'm meremy amused."
Printing some very small shrouds for 1206 LED. This is for a lighting project for my model RR. Wasn't easy to get these done but I persisted and bent the machine to my will.
:-DD
HO model railroad here.
Are those for headlights? What do you do if there is more than one headlight? Multiple LEDs?
It would be nice to see a picture of them being used.
I want to re-light some old locomotives of mine.
The 1206 size LEDs are pretty big for N scale.
The 0805 size might be a better choice and still hand solderable.
It would be nice to see a picture of them being used.
It would be nice to see a picture of them being used.
Since you asked, here's a picture of the finished LED lights (in that pic they had yet to be painted). Also a pic of them in installed on my intermodal area.
Covering the 3D printing topic, you can see some 3D printed 45 ft. Hi Cube containers that I airbrushed with some real-world logos such as MOL, COSCO, "K" Line, and CN. I also made the stencils for the logos on my 3D printer. Some of the other containers are folded paper models.
Oh FFS... CReality hasn't even shipped half the KS CR6SE orders, and now they announce they're offering it on "other platforms". :palm:
Oh... and all of us who ordered "extras"... that they claimed we had to wait because of those extra bits... well our "extras" will be shipped later. ::) Who knows how much later. So no reason they couldn't have shipped our 3DP with all the other units. |O
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061 (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061)
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image)
Been using original firmware since getting CR10 v2, today I decided to update.
All went well except for one thing.
My Esteps were set to the default 93 after updating. I did the usual test, marked 120mm and extruded 100mm. That left 46mm rather than 20mm.
OK, so I changed the Esteps to 125.7, stored it, powered down and up the printer to check it still has the new Esteps, it has.
Repeated the test, it's still extruding exactly the same amount as when the Esteps was set at 93, still leaving me with exactly 46mm.
Weird.
Oh FFS... CReality hasn't even shipped half the KS CR6SE orders, and now they announce they're offering it on "other platforms". :palm:
Oh... and all of us who ordered "extras"... that they claimed we had to wait because of those extra bits... well our "extras" will be shipped later. ::) Who knows how much later. So no reason they couldn't have shipped our 3DP with all the other units. |O
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061 (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061)
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image)
I feel for you :(
But (as is usual with me) something weird is going on.
It prints the skirt fine, then it goes to print the first layer for the support and seems to get into an infinite first layer loop, going around and around the support, adding more filament until it obviously can’t cope with all the squish on the one layer and it goes all stringy, I can pull off this stringy lump and it happily keeps going. Never starts the actual print.
Oh FFS... CReality hasn't even shipped half the KS CR6SE orders, and now they announce they're offering it on "other platforms". :palm:
Oh... and all of us who ordered "extras"... that they claimed we had to wait because of those extra bits... well our "extras" will be shipped later. ::) Who knows how much later. So no reason they couldn't have shipped our 3DP with all the other units. |O
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061 (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061)
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image)
I feel for you :(
Thanks. ;)
Yeah... it's a good thing I didn't sell off my Diggro to help fund this thing... I'd be chewing the carpets by the time it gets to me. ::)
I'm seeing people in the KS update posting that they ordered retail off AliEx a couple days ago, and DHL has given them tracking which is now showing picked up and progress through the system already, not just "Shipping ticket created" or WTFEever.
mnem
|O
[...]
I know this sounds like a lot of assache, but most of the assache is in the reading; once you get used to doing it, takes no time at all.
mnem
:popcorn:
I dropped the Extruder motor in the process, now if I go to prepare and try to move the extruder manually it does nothing.
Interesting if I try to move the x axes the extruder motor start to buzz
Most printers will disable the stepper for the filament unless the hot end is up to temperature. I know mine does this. Was your heated up to temp when you tried this?
Why there is no brass thread in the red one?
UPGRADE: For the Creality upgraded version, small pneumatic connector is no longer needed. Recommended to cut the teflon tube before install it. Perfect replacement for Creality 3D Printers Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro / Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S.
Man Zucca - that design sucks! That black plastic insert is gonna move back and forth every time the thing retracts and extrudes. I'd try to glue it in if they did away with the threaded brass. Cheap bastards.
:palm:
Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one. :P
Recommended to cut the teflon tube before install it.Does it mean cut just the end so it will fit properly with a clean cut at the end OR to cut to size placing the nozzle to max X and max Y?
No, that's why the blue clippity; to lock the thing. However, on my pneu fitting, I found I had to use 2 to lock it because they were thin. Fortunately, I ordered extras when I got my CR10 hotend/trolley plate.
xrun, I bet also one of my balls it will move. The real question is how much and if it will degrade the 3D printing process.
Try it and observe.
It is what it is, unless you return it, you will have to improve it yourself.
xrun, I bet also one of my balls it will move. The real question is how much and if it will degrade the 3D printing process.
Try it and observe. I just think a plastic part holding with just clips (the BLACK part) isn't going to stand up over thousands of retracts. It isn't going to be as good as a metal threaded insert. I just won't be. However, if and when it starts to loosen, you can try gluing it in (the BLACK clip).
It is what it is, unless you return it, you will have to improve it yourself.
Meanwhile TH3D or Marllin FW on the Ender 5?
Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one. :P
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=991384;image) Or, you can look into one of the CNC clone BMG ones: I've drooled over them, but I cannot speak to their quality: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013818755.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013818755.html)
mnem
Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one. :P
For the records there is also a red one with a pneu fitting out there.
(Attachment Link)
Meanwhile TH3D or Marllin FW on the Ender 5?
Here (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/axeo02/eli5_marlin_vs_th3d_firmwares/), I go with Marlin!
Hmm, well it seems like I'm going mad :-DD
Was obviously way way too tired to try and slice the STL at 11pm last night.
Maybe, just maybe if I didn't have most of the support options set to 0 (eg support density), it might have printed properly.
I watched the Cura preview vid print the first layer and sure enough, it was going over the same line time and time again. I then realised my support settings were weirdly screwed, I altered them to sensible settings, also slowed initial speed down to 15 mm/s, tried the preview again (using tree supports which is what I initially wanted) and this time I could see what it was meant to do.
Attached two first layer pics, one before I changed the support settings, one after, quite a bit of difference :)
There are two versions; one made to fit on the left side of the X-axis beam and one for the right. It matters so they load the filament from the right direction and so you can operate the lever without major contortionist action.
Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one. :P
For the records there is also a red one with a pneu fitting out there.
There's also this one which while it is red https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I ended up replacing my Silver Creality one for it, as it's dual gear.
Ooohh... shiny... :o
No, never saw that before. IIRC, what I saw when I was looking into them was pics of them configured as Bowden extruder and mounted just like the CReality goober-drive on either side of the X-axis beam or both for dual extrusion.
Next:
- Sanguino installed
- generate .hex
- flash Marlin to silent board
try to print something...
then octo raspi...
Oh is that all? Shouldn't take you more than a few hours ... :popcorn:
Dual-Z mods, yumm.
Oh is that all? Shouldn't take you more than a few hours ... :popcorn:
Right now I am comparing the .h config files for ender 5 I find on the www to understand why the are different and what is the best for me.
I'm not sure what people are going to think of you from this point forward Zucca. :-DDFor sure we all now know what you think about me.
For sure we all now know what you think about me.
Hey, I am learning and ready take fishes splaps in my face. No worries, they don't hurt too much.
For example I discovered the 800 vs 400 steps difference in the z axis, between ender 5 and ender 5 pro.
Useful information for me, which convinced me to go for the z axis screw upgrade (which will have 1600 at the end with 2mm pitch)
A profound, professional, 3 hour investigation. On the 1th of September. (https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Eg1uIalUYAAF_wq?format=jpg&name=medium) :palm:
Fortunately(!?) or unfortunately, this New World of 3D printing, is escalating RAPIDLY!........
Where does it end??? Obviously it doesn't!!! We are a LONG way from the imaginary 'Star Trek' where they order the ships computer to
create a food dish or glass of 'Scotch' in a matter of seconds in a replicator!!
Where does it end??? Obviously it doesn't!!! We are a LONG way from the imaginary 'Star Trek' where they order the ships computer to
create a food dish or glass of 'Scotch' in a matter of seconds in a replicator!!
In pretty much every episode of "ST:TNG," Picard asks the replicator for "Tea, Earl Gray, Hot" and a cup or mug or some other container of tea materializes. And he drinks his tea.
What happens to the cup or mug or other container? Do they get recycled? Does the swabbie come through his Ready Room after hours and clean up the mess?
Where does it end??? Obviously it doesn't!!! We are a LONG way from the imaginary 'Star Trek' where they order the ships computer to
create a food dish or glass of 'Scotch' in a matter of seconds in a replicator!!
In pretty much every episode of "ST:TNG," Picard asks the replicator for "Tea, Earl Gray, Hot" and a cup or mug or some other container of tea materializes. And he drinks his tea.
What happens to the cup or mug or other container? Do they get recycled? Does the swabbie come through his Ready Room after hours and clean up the mess?
He throws it out the window.
Moreover I want to turn off the beep/buzzer in menu, it is driving me crazy and SWMBO wanted to throw my Ender out of the window yesterday for that.
Ah, I adjusted the Z screw stop axis and installed the glass bed, any elegant suggestion (no paper clip, thing) on how to keep it in place?
The show must go on.
Ah, I adjusted the Z screw stop axis and installed the glass bed, any elegant suggestion (no paper clip, thing) on how to keep it in place?
The show must go on.
I use tape. Scotch Magic here in the US. Just ordinary office paper mending tape. It has no stretch so it keeps things down and not moving. It is easy to remove when necessary. And has survived bed temps to 60 C. Ymmv if you run the bed hotter.
Linking .pio\build\melzi_optimized\firmware.elf
Checking size .pio\build\melzi_optimized\firmware.elf
Advanced Memory Usage is available via "PlatformIO Home > Project Inspect"
RAM: [=== ] 28.4% (used 4653 bytes from 16384 bytes)
Flash: [==========] 98.5% (used 128118 bytes from 130048 bytes)
=================================================================== [SUCCESS] Took 31.26 seconds ===================================================================
Environment Status Duration
--------------- -------- ------------
melzi_optimized SUCCESS 00:00:31.264
==================================================================== 1 succeeded in 00:00:31.264 ====================================================================
Murphy got me again, I pulled away the Laptop with too much joy, the connected USB Cable ripped of the micro USB port on the Ender.
:horse: :horse:
will fix it, just a PITA! Stupid me.
Except when it's CReality on a KickStarter. Then, "caveat emptor" and "No good deed goes unpunished" appears to be the order of business.
Murphy got me again, I pulled away the Laptop with too much joy, the connected USB Cable ripped of the micro USB port on the Ender.
:horse: :horse:
will fix it, just a PITA! Stupid me.
Treat your 3D printer well and it will return your kindness many times over. :-DD
Ah, I adjusted the Z screw stop axis and installed the glass bed, any elegant suggestion (no paper clip, thing) on how to keep it in place?
The show must go on.
Ah, I adjusted the Z screw stop axis and installed the glass bed, any elegant suggestion (no paper clip, thing) on how to keep it in place?
The show must go on.
I use tape. Scotch Magic here in the US. Just ordinary office paper mending tape. It has no stretch so it keeps things down and not moving. It is easy to remove when necessary. And has survived bed temps to 60 C. Ymmv if you run the bed hotter.
Sitting here with 2 Ulitmakers (3 & 2+ Extended) and an Ender 3 I'm upgrading for a friend and stumbled across this.
https://www.ogadget.com/x/biqu-bx?utm_medium=FB%20Group&utm_source=FB%20Group%20Giveaway&fbclid=IwAR0KITw3tvxIbIi1AkkkPXZ9yOL9MOP2Zmf-34nBaK98jVnlNqOqf75YskA (https://www.ogadget.com/x/biqu-bx?utm_medium=FB%20Group&utm_source=FB%20Group%20Giveaway&fbclid=IwAR0KITw3tvxIbIi1AkkkPXZ9yOL9MOP2Zmf-34nBaK98jVnlNqOqf75YskA)
Has some interesting features for the "pre-release" price of $249. (Seems its going through Kickstarter, so consider the risk).
Lightweight (219g) direct extruder,
400 MHz mainboard,
250mm x 250mm x 250mm print area (not on web page, but mentioned in FB group.)
Precision, silent steppers,
7" Touch Screen
All metal hot-end
Mean Well (Taiwanese) Power Supply
OctoPrint ready (just add Pi)
The video of the TPU cat that it supposedly printed got my attention (you have to join their FB group (BIQU BX Coming Soon...) to see the video unfortunately but I attached a screen shot (its squishy).
BIQU is the printer brand of Bigtree Tech, who are famous for their inexpensive upgrade boards for the Creality (and other) printers.
Ummm.... yeah. I was in on the "Super Early Bird" notification with the CR6-SE... responded immediately only to find they'd had a FurkBook-only pre-release party where all those slots were announced 12 hours early, and all the people on the mailing list were left out in the cold, only able to to get in on the general release. |O
It went downhill from there. :palm:
After seeing HobGoblyn's assache adventures with his BTT board and E3, not exactly excited by the prospect of joining another such China-Direct 3DP KickStarter. And certainly not on a printer they're going to try and sell for $500/copy absolutely as soon as they think they can get away with it. :--
mnem
I've had enough butthurt for a while, thanks. Not interested in volunteering for more. (https://filedn.com/lEDSGUXnO7mp9lWR3BbARrR/Emoticons/nah.gif)
I'm allergic to Kickstarter now, I got my fingers burned once.
I will do again the same mistake if it is not a lot of money, I am not in a hurry to have it (=can wait for 2 years), and I am sure I can fix somehow if it is shit.
PS: The Ender 5 is a good base to do the upgrades (dual Z is already on the super slow boat from china).
Due to the huge customer support base, I really can only recommend something like the E3/E3 Pro right now for someone wanting to get into 3DP on the cheap, and after seeing HobGoblyn's adventures with his, I further recommend ONLY from a store on Amazon where you have a reasonable right of refusal if your particular unit turns out to be a shitshow.
If you have more money to spend, there are a world of options out there... but as I'm the original cheap-ass dwagon, I only have first-hand experience of those by helping others fix theirs, so I'm not a good person to ask, as I will tend to be a bit prejudiced based on HAVING TO help people fix theirs. ;)
As I still haven't received MY CR6-SE, despite being one of the very firstest KS backers, I really can't recommend for or against... and by the time I DO get mine, pretty much everybody who knows anything about 3DP will have had a chance to dissect them in microscopic detail, and my opinion is already tainted by the whole thing.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1065174;image)(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=953188;image)
First print.. ready for lots of fishes slap on my face.
Now SWMBO wants a Laser Cutter because "You can do so much more" :-//FYI beanflying plays with them and was last seen building a 100W unit :scared:
You can calibrate it accurately by measuring it. For example in Cura, you load in a solid cube, set line width to 0.5mm, wall line count to 1, top layers 0, bottom layers 1 and infill 0. That prints a hollow cube without a top and single wall count. Then just measure it with calipers, your target is 0.48. No idea why it's not 0.5 like the line width is, but that is what all the guides say :-//.
Set Wall Thickness - 0.5
Aim for 0.48mm thickness on Cube
going up to 7mm retraction distance. (Attachment Link)
8 Hours print overnight and I got my first spaghetti incident (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71J0J-3NXzL._SL1200_.jpg).
I thing I need to go back and do the first homework I skipped: Calibration. I will google, research and come back.
Meanwhile if some else have a good link, like Bassman59, to point to I will appreciate it.
PPS: I have a brand new still air sealed (mint) PLA from 2013. I give it a try. Since it was not in contact with any humidity it should be fine.
8 Hours print overnight and I got my first spaghetti incident (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71J0J-3NXzL._SL1200_.jpg).
now forgive me my ignorance, but can a 3D build a bridge which is an arc in the XY plane?
So if I see a .STL with an arc in the XY plane without support is bad design.
I own you a picture: (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1067164;image)
Bearing in mind I'm very new to electronics, I wanted to double check I'm right.
I'm in the process of assembling most of this (to get rid of box on the side) https://3duk.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0 (https://3duk.co.uk/index.php?topic=74.0) and he says to add an earth to the printer frame.
As the frame is coated hence is non conductive, I don't see the point (or am I missing something).
thanks
Sidetrack: I've wondered if/how to connect chassis ground to 0V when using isolated AC-DC supplies incorporated in the device. My preference is to connect the chassis ground to supply ground, and keep it separate from circuit ground (since the AC-DC supplies here hobbyists like me can use are all isolated); here in the northern parts of EU, a CEE 7/4 plug connected to say a MeanWell AC-DC supply, with the supply chassis and printer chassis connected to ground, with the DC side isolated. Better suggestions? Reasons to do differently?
The fact that there may be safety caps connected between DC 0V and supply ground in the AC-DC supply (filter? suppression?) makes this too complicated for me to figure out.
If the isolation happens outisde the metal case well you do not need ground it. It that case yes connect it to 0VDC for EMC stuff.Yes, this is what I do with e.g. 5V USB microcontrollers in die-cast aluminium enclosures, as there is no separate "ground", only USB 5V and USB GND. (That is, the USB GND is connected to the chassis at or very near the USB connector. But I do wonder if I should put a big-ish resistor in between, to absorb the energy from static discharges from humans to the enclosure.)
I was previously thinking along the lines of worst case scenario .......Good approach. Understand, though, that Murphy is a creative bastard.
I'm using version 1.1.9.1 because I have a CR-10 Mini with the original Melzi board.
It doesn't have enough program memory to run version 2.0.
Here is the link: https://www.creality.com/blog-detail/creality-cr-6-se-3d-printer-shipment-update-20 (https://www.creality.com/blog-detail/creality-cr-6-se-3d-printer-shipment-update-20)
🚀So far, 4090 Units Creality CR-6 SE 3D Printer With Add-ons Have Been Shipped!
⭐Besides, there are two batches left that have not been delivered yet. If everything runs smoothly, We expect to ship all the shipments within the 25th of September.
If your tracking number has not been updated for a long time, please don’t worry, it is currently onboard or customs clearance, and will be delivered to you immediately after the goods arrive at the port and received by UPS/FedEx Courier express company. (It will take about 50 days for it to be delivered to you)
Please find my Librem 5 thread.
>:(
Now the bad news....
:horse: :horse:
Murphy got me again, I pulled away the Laptop with too much joy, the connected USB Cable ripped of the micro USB port on the Ender.
:horse: :horse:
will fix it, just a PITA! Stupid me.
Yeah; this is not really comparable; these are people who are an unknown quantity producing something that hasn't been before. The reason so many people got sucked into the CR6-SE KS is because it was CReality - an established brand in the business of what they're promoting on the KS, and that has up til now for the most part kept their promises to customers.Well, that was predictable. A company that has your money and knows you're not going anywhere isn't going to trip over their own feet to fulfil your order if they can take someone else's money at full price. Don't expect business to engage in ethics if it isn't profitable, Western or not.
That is completely different from this scenario, where they clearly deliberately used of the "free-for-all" nature of KS to take advantage of 3DP enthusiasts to essentially bankroll their next product without the pesky interest and/or partnership of commercial investors. This was all based on them promising to provide a level of service they have been providing for over a decade, and then reneging on those promises because KS says they can.
Now if your phone was being KSed by like Nokia... then I might consider it comparable. But there's a huge difference between making an honest attempt to keep your promises and running out of money like that phone, and being a well-known brand and advertising your product like it was any other of your well-known products only on KS, then using the fact it's KS as an excuse to charge for Express Shipping but shipping via slow-boat, then taking all the money and bankrolling production for retail BEFORE YOUR KS CUSTOMERS even have half their product on the way.
They simply do not think the same way as Westerners.
mnem
:popcorn:
Do I need to wireup the 5V+ Bus from the USB cable to the Ender board? I am reading about people taping the 5V pin on the USB connector to avoid the Display to stay on when the rasberry pi in connected.
So I feel I can live without the 5V connected to the board.
You may want to go ahead an connect the +5V if for some reason in the future you have the board out and want to burn new firmware.
As far as the Rasberry Pi, I don't care either for the Pi powering the printer when using OctoPrint.
I see the the same thing with the Pi powering my Creality CR-10.
I was considering building an adapter or a USB cable to block the 5V from the Pi.
Then you have a choice when doing any maintenance in the future.
You may want to go ahead an connect the +5V if for some reason in the future you have the board out and want to burn new firmware.
As far as the Rasberry Pi, I don't care either for the Pi powering the printer when using OctoPrint.
I see the the same thing with the Pi powering my Creality CR-10.
I was considering building an adapter or a USB cable to block the 5V from the Pi.
Then you have a choice when doing any maintenance in the future.
Well, considering it's a highly-rated $4K machine with dual extruder, might be worth spending some time figuring out what its major malfunction is.
I've never had the opportunity to play with any of their hardware (certainly out of my price range), but I've got to think it has to have something over the $700 E5 at that price, and not just the shiny plastic box and dual head. :-//
mnem
:popcorn:
https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-3-abs-tips-tricks-to-get-great-abs-prints/#tip-1-fix-that-fan (https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-3-abs-tips-tricks-to-get-great-abs-prints/#tip-1-fix-that-fan)
Why the board fan is connected in parallel with the part cooling fan near the hotend? Even on my Ender 5 it's like this.
To me no sense, temped to connect that fan to the always 12V output.
:-//
So are you saying poor design, or rental machine that's tore up from the floor up...? ???
mnem
:popcorn:
Short version: It's based on a RAMPS 1.4 board, and they already used up the extra Analog/PWM output in that template making the hotend fan so it was FW controlled. By doing this, when the machine isn't working, the only fan running is the one in the PSU. When idling, there's really no NEED for the board fan to be on anyways.https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-3-abs-tips-tricks-to-get-great-abs-prints/#tip-1-fix-that-fan (https://all3dp.com/2/creality-ender-3-abs-tips-tricks-to-get-great-abs-prints/#tip-1-fix-that-fan)
Why the board fan is connected in parallel with the part cooling fan near the hotend? Even on my Ender 5 it's like this.
To me no sense, temped to connect that fan to the always 12V output.
:-//
Well ... because if it weren't, the hobbyist would have one less item to improve upon and they would be less proud of their machine and the knowledge they gained from doing the improvement.
:-DD
Uggh. Sounds like you've already done the deep dive and found it's just a bad design. :palm:
Only you can decide if it's worth the hassle of ironing out all the bugs yourself. I gave up on my Tevo Tarantulas years ago; but only after fighting tooth & claw to make them a decent machine & failing. :-//
mnem
:popcorn:
https://news.mit.edu/2020/3d-printing-miniature-magnetic-pump-0909"The researchers printed the pump in two ways, using Nylon 12 as the structural material in both. In the first pump, a magnet is press-fitted into the structure of the enclosing piston. With the second monolithic pump, the researchers used Nylon 12 embedded with neodymium magnet (NdFeB) microparticles to create the pump’s magnetic core."
mnem
:popcorn:
OK I'm expecting a Master Class in 3D printing problem deduction and fix ... :popcorn:
Done long ago on mine. A lot of the manufacturers of the cheapies like to configure the current pretty low to reduce operating noise; the Diggro was no exception even tho it came with TMC2208s.
Are you sure about the current ratings on those steppers...? I have yet to see one in the wild that wasn't safe to at least 1.5A; IME, practical limit is the capacity of the driver, not the stepper. Don't confuse max continuous/hold rating of the stepper with peak current, which is what you're setting on the VRef. :-//
https://wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2208/
The maximum settable motor current is 1.77A RMS (0.11Ohm sense resistors), but the SilentStepSticks can only be used up to 1.2A RMS.
Irms = (Vref * 1.77A) / 2.5V = Vref * 0.71
Vref = (Irms * 2.5V) / 1.77A = Irms * 1.41 = Imax
In my case, there is a functional issue with the way the extruder is working when the layer fan kicks on; I have confirmed this with manual feeding. Extrusion quantity and quality goes totally out to lunch when the layer fan kicks on, and a huge increase in backpressure. I'm just not sure what to do about it. :-//
My latest attempt was 220° first layer, 230° regular temp with layer fan set to 30% regular and 50% max speed. Not sure how much more heat I can add before I start boiling the PLA inside the heatbrake. And it's not like I can move the layer fan any lower... so I'm a bit stumped as to what to try next.
mnem
:scared:
so no ESTEPS via front panel; it has to be done by consoling in with my laptop. |O
so no ESTEPS via front panel; it has to be done by consoling in with my laptop. |O
Why they do not serial comm interface as standard from the front panel in all 3D printer? I do not understand why. EDIT: Maybe typing with a push and rotate pot is not the best. Keep up mnem!
For the mechanical guys here, is this coupler: (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1087322;image) bad for D shape shafts? It is rated for 280Ncm I will use it at 46Ncm max. It should be okay even if I do not have an O shaft.
There's a reason CReality spent the money on these custom-designed couplers instead of using the common dime-a-dozen spiral-cut ones. ;)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1085492;image) More Frustion360 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image).
mnem
I'm gonna go put ice on my junk now.
There's a reason CReality spent the money on these custom-designed couplers instead of using the common dime-a-dozen spiral-cut ones. ;)
The reason is they are cheaper than the others. :-DD
Searching on the www is seems either you have people who love those flex coupler or people that hate them.
I think it is good to have some flex coupler available to test them out in case you want or need to.
I will make my own tests.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1085492;image) More Frustion360 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image).
mnem
I'm gonna go put ice on my junk now.
Mnem,
I think you may get better cooling, less resistance to airflow if you have a smaller number of wider slots. In products I have designed, I would make the slots as wide as the safety regulations would allow. This may also help with 3D printing.
Would you share your STL or F3D file? I would be happy to try the first few layers of this design on my 3D printer.
What filament material are you using?
Regards,
Jay_Diddy_B
Configuration.h
Configuration_adv.h
I always now just compare the files and transfer my settings into the other file, leaving the new parts they put in there alone.
So... went back to OEM, aside from the dual-drive extruder. We'll see...
I always now just compare the files and transfer my settings into the other file, leaving the new parts they put in there alone.
Thx.
Now the next question is why git merge does not do his job properly? When I merge my local branch with the new one from github my .h config are wiped out without even asking.
So... after going back to stock, putting everything exactly the same as the last time it worked right... it STILL kept (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) because FUCK YOU mnem!!!
Tried a different fan... still (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image). I tried relocating the fan so it blew less on the nozzle... (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) I tried a third roll of filament... (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=975972;image)
So I went back through all the pics in here from when it was printing awesome... and I finally realized what was different.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1089374;image)
This little bastard stainless steel nozzle(s). I'd swapped one in thinking my original brass one was clogged. When I rebuilt with the MicroSwiss, I put this nozzle on it because it was one of the ones that came with it. So I reinstalled my old brass nozzle, did a cold pull to clean it (you can see it came nicely clean above), and...
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1089378;image)
BAM...! Got this result at 210° without even re-cal-ing my E-STEPS. ::)
Jeezus H Christ a-hoppin on a pogo stick... what a clusterfuck. (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1021934;image)
Now... do I just enjoy the damn thing, or go to the hassle of rebuilding it with the 'fang again...? :o
Mmmmhmmm.... I have oodles of parts I wanna make right now. I think I'll tempt fate another time, when I'm not trying to get something else done...
mnem
"Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof." ~grand-momma
I was going to suggest a nozzle issue the other day but I figured it would insult your intelligence and that you'd already checked it out. :-//
Glad you found it though.
Thx.
Now the next question is why git merge does not do his job properly? When I merge my local branch with the new one from github my .h config are wiped out without even asking.
Did you have an actual branch with commits, or just a dirty tree?
This little bastard stainless steel nozzle(s). I'd swapped one in thinking my original brass one was clogged. When I rebuilt with the MicroSwiss, I put this nozzle on it because it was one of the ones that came
You realize you could have probably carved that part out of alabaster with a knife, by now? :DNot 6 copies of 2 pieces (plus a dozen revisions) I couldn't. ;)
I dunno. Seems to me if it sucked that hard, why would anybody ever make a nozzle out of it? Also; a awful lot of SS cookware out there.Stainless nozzles are intended for filled filaments. Carbon or metal filled filament will wear out your brass nozzles in no time because the fill material is much harder than the nozzle. The different thermal properties of brass and stainless mean some engineering is required to keep filament temperature and pressure where they need to be. Hot ends and nozzles seem deceptively simple but building good ones is far from a trivial task.
Much more likely a user error of some sort; either doesn't belong in this application or I didn't build the hotend right for that nozzle. :-//
mnem
:palm:
I dunno. Seems to me if it sucked that hard, why would anybody ever make a nozzle out of it? Also; a awful lot of SS cookware out there.Stainless nozzles are intended for filled filaments. Carbon or metal filled filament will wear out your brass nozzles in no time because the fill material is much harder than the nozzle. The different thermal properties of brass and stainless mean some engineering is required to keep filament temperature and pressure where they need to be. Hot ends and nozzles seem deceptively simple but building good ones is far from a trivial task.
Much more likely a user error of some sort; either doesn't belong in this application or I didn't build the hotend right for that nozzle. :-//
mnem
:palm:
Decent stainless cookware will have an aluminium or copper disc integrated into the bottom. This disc will spread the heat much more evenly to prevent hotspots, while still retaining the hygienic benefits and durability of stainless cookware. Cast iron pots and pans brute force the issue by having a large mass and therefore thermal mass, evening out the temperature and dampening thermal differences.
Oh now, come on try it - nothing can go wrong. :-DD
"Power Failure Print Recovery"
So for an exciting start to the day, I downloaded and compiled Marlin 2.0.7.2
Now the pain in the ass is the raspi 3B+ which loose the serial connection over USB about once every 3 days.That is a hardware problem; the
What to do now? Oh I know: in FreeBSD we trust.Nah, just switch to a better SBC that is supported in mainline Linux. (I mean, ARM is Tier-2 on FreeBSD (https://www.freebsd.org/platforms/arm.html), but primary tier on Linux.)
That is a hardware problem; the Qualcomm USB can occasionally forget USB packets in certain situations, which should never happen if it actually followed the standard. Basically, if one is using a Raspberry Pi, all USBy communications are based on "perhaps I work, perhaps I don't". They've done a lot of software fiddling to make it as rare as possible, but it's just lipstick on a pig IMO.
Nah, just switch to a better SBC that is supported in mainline Linux.
I have a BeagleBone (https://www.element14.com/community/community/design-challenges/musictech/blog/2016/03/16/controlling-your-3d-printer-with-beaglebone-and-octoprint) under my bench doing nothing. I still think that a FreeBSD Lenovo would be rock solid, BUT I am curious cat: I will give it the Beaglebone a chance.I might, too, if I had a BB. I know the Linux kernel is rock solid (and utterly ubiquitous in everywhere you wouldn't suspect, like TVs), but the userspace is increasingly giving me the heebie-jeebies nowadays – fragile as frick, wrought with single-point failure possibilities. FreeBSD folks are more conservative, value stability over the latest fad, which makes for good basis for appliances.
Now the pain in the ass is the raspi 3B+ which loose the serial connection over USB about once every 3 days.That is a hardware problem; the Qualcomm USB can occasionally forget USB packets in certain situations, which should never happen if it actually followed the standard. Basically, if one is using a Raspberry Pi, all USBy communications are based on "perhaps I work, perhaps I don't". They've done a lot of software fiddling to make it as rare as possible, but it's just lipstick on a pig IMO.
Crap, I mixed the two. I was trying to say Broadcom, not Qualcomm. >:( Must edit. Thanks for the correction, Monkeh.Now the pain in the ass is the raspi 3B+ which loose the serial connection over USB about once every 3 days.That is a hardware problem; the Qualcomm USB can occasionally forget USB packets in certain situations, which should never happen if it actually followed the standard. Basically, if one is using a Raspberry Pi, all USBy communications are based on "perhaps I work, perhaps I don't". They've done a lot of software fiddling to make it as rare as possible, but it's just lipstick on a pig IMO.
I like to crap on Qualcomm as much as the next guy, but the Pi is all Broadcom. Which is even worse.
For example, a $20 La Frite (1GB RAM, AML-S805X-AC) with a $15 (8MB) or $20 (16MB) EMMC 5.x module (for OS) runs upstream Debian ARM port and a vanilla upstream kernel without vendor-specific patches.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1097986;image)
I'm having fun with mine too. :P Tiny Toothless is 28mm tall.
The hardware is much better (reliable) than 'Pi, at the same price range. That's why I used it as an example. Libre Computer completely fucked up the Kickstarter, though; I was/am a backer. Drived off a LOT of developers/users. (Didn't get the EMMC, which was a mistake.) You can find the pinouts in the schematics (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dl3lLTs407OZ7HhPYjjlvDX2_FPfKHMr/view) and at the LoverPi forum (https://forum.loverpi.com/categories/libre-computer-aml-s805x-ac). Or you can ask Libre Computer directly; they're absolutely not hostile, quite friendly, but .. neglectful.For example, a $20 La Frite (1GB RAM, AML-S805X-AC) with a $15 (8MB) or $20 (16MB) EMMC 5.x module (for OS) runs upstream Debian ARM port and a vanilla upstream kernel without vendor-specific patches.I'm struggling very hard to find a reason to buy this board other than the price (which I admit, is nice).
The hardware is much better (reliable) than 'Pi, at the same price range. That's why I used it as an example. Libre Computer completely fucked up the Kickstarter, though; I was/am a backer. Drived off a LOT of developers/users. (Didn't get the EMMC, which was a mistake.) You can find the pinouts in the schematics (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Dl3lLTs407OZ7HhPYjjlvDX2_FPfKHMr/view) and at the LoverPi forum (https://forum.loverpi.com/categories/libre-computer-aml-s805x-ac). Or you can ask Libre Computer directly; they're absolutely not hostile, quite friendly, but .. neglectful.For example, a $20 La Frite (1GB RAM, AML-S805X-AC) with a $15 (8MB) or $20 (16MB) EMMC 5.x module (for OS) runs upstream Debian ARM port and a vanilla upstream kernel without vendor-specific patches.I'm struggling very hard to find a reason to buy this board other than the price (which I admit, is nice).
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1097986;image)
I'm having fun with mine too. :P Tiny Toothless is 28mm tall.
Nice beast, one day I will go below 0.2mm Z layer too, but first I have to design custom plates for the dual Z upgrade on my E5.
Oh the 0.9 steppers are coming today, ohhhh another upgrade.
How big is your mini train world multiple rooms or just one?
Added some signage which seemed appropriate.....
Currently printing at 20% infill and 0.28 LH. It's like watching firehose laid down after printing Tiny Toothless. :-DD
Still a 17 hour print. :palm:
After seeing this video, I just updated my Marlin firmware (to version 1.1.9.1) to enable Mesh Bed Leveling.
AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (recommended) combines the features of 3-point, linear, bilinear, and mesh leveling. As with bilinear leveling, the mesh data generated by UBL is used to adjust Z height across the bed using bilinear interpolation. An LCD controller is currently required.
MESH_BED_LEVELING provides a custom G29 command to measure the bed height at several grid points using a piece of paper or feeler gauge. See G29 for MBL for the full procedure. This type of leveling is only compatible with PROBE_MANUALLY.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099108;image) Currently printing at 20% infill and 0.28 LH. It's like watching firehose laid down after printing Tiny Toothless.:-DD Still a 17 hour print. :palm:
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099116;image)
I think as soon I get home I will activate AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL with PROBE_MANUALLY
Linking .pio\build\melzi_optimized\firmware.elf
Building .pio\build\melzi_optimized\firmware.hex
Checking size .pio\build\melzi_optimized\firmware.elf
Advanced Memory Usage is available via "PlatformIO Home > Project Inspect"
RAM: [== ] 21.6% (used 3541 bytes from 16384 bytes)
Flash: [========= ] 88.2% (used 114682 bytes from 130048 bytes)
=============================================================================================================================================== [SUCCESS] Took 41.44 seconds ===============================================================================================================================================
Environment Status Duration
--------------- -------- ------------
melzi_optimized SUCCESS 00:00:41.436
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099808;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099812;image)I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099808;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099812;image)I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail.
I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device.
The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.
when I switch to AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL with PROBE_MANUALLY no go.... :-// :o
Sure; I can definitely see why having the bit end up is useful. It is just my stabby-stabby sausage fingers that would impale themselves automagically. (Although I have about a dozen visible scars on my hands, I still have all fingies and full mobility and no nerve damage. Only by pure luck, though.)(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099808;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099812;image)I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail.
I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device.
The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.
Easy to see what the tools are, when stored like that. - I have mine lying flat in a tray, as a compromise!
Is this an appropriate thread to throw out SLA 3D Printer questions, or should I start a new thread – SLA 3D Printer yet?
I have had about 3 years experience with FDM now, followed this thread since its inception, now wanting to print models with much more precision – although FDM will still have a place in my workshop.
I am very close to pulling the trigger on an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer 4K 8.9 Inch LCD UV Resin Printer 192*120*250mm.
Thanks in advance.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099808;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099812;image)I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail. I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device. The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099808;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1099812;image)I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail. I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device. The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.
I got tired of stabbing myself rummaging around in a drawer; this is my preferred solution. Besides, a little bloodletting is a good thing; lets you know you're alive. ;)
mnem
A machine isn't truly yours until it has tasted your blood. >:D
Is this an appropriate thread to throw out SLA 3D Printer questions, or should I start a new thread – SLA 3D Printer yet?I'm eyeing the Elegoo Saturn, but would like a suitably sized washing and curing station to be available. It's still a dicky process with one, but somewhat less so. If you ask me FDM and SLA printers functionally barely overlap. Both are rather different tools with different applications, strengths and weaknesses.
I have had about 3 years experience with FDM now, followed this thread since its inception, now wanting to print models with much more precision – although FDM will still have a place in my workshop.
I am very close to pulling the trigger on an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer 4K 8.9 Inch LCD UV Resin Printer 192*120*250mm.
Thanks in advance.
...If you ask me FDM and SLA printers functionally barely overlap. Both are rather different tools with different applications, strengths and weaknesses.
FUUU I couldn't resist
New X motor, here (https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-0-9deg-36ncm-51oz-in-0-9a-5-4v-42x42x40mm-4-wires.html?mfp=149-step-angle%5B0.9%5D%2C148-bipolar-unipolar%5BBipolar%5D)
New Y motor, here (https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/Dual-Shaft-Nema-17-Bipolar-09deg-44Ncm-6248ozin-168A-28V-42x42x48mm-4-Wires.html?mfp=149-step-angle%5B0.9%5D%2C148-bipolar-unipolar%5BBipolar%5D%2C71-single-shaft-dual-shaft%5BDual%20Shaft%5D)
You could have swapped the pin pairs around pretty easily
Is it friction or the normal cogging of the stepper motor?
No... I meant to swap all 4 at once; in other words, reverse the order on one end of the cable so the connector flips over. This is usually the cause of this kind of issue. I usually prefer to fix the hardware so it matches the default config; that way when upgrading FW, I don't have a hundred little changes to remember/figure out. I have a horrible memory. ;)
You mean there's excessive offset in the anchor points for the belts? If so, then you need to design/print new anchors that bring the anchor points inline/parallel with the transit of the belt off the roller.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1102384;image)
mnem
:-/O
No... I meant to swap all 4 at once; in other words, reverse the order on one end of the cable so the connector flips over. This is usually the cause of this kind of issue. I usually prefer to fix the hardware so it matches the default config; that way when upgrading FW, I don't have a hundred little changes to remember/figure out. I have a horrible memory. ;)
Not so easy, the pins are asymmetric. It would not work. Regarding FW, I keep my config.h in the upgrade process, so no worries.You mean there's excessive offset in the anchor points for the belts? If so, then you need to design/print new anchors that bring the anchor points inline/parallel with the transit of the belt off the roller.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1102384;image)
mnem
:-/O
Bingo mnem, spot on. Exactly what I was thinking. These (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3774993)could help, I hope.
2020-10-04 12:28:56,671 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Unexpected error while reading from serial port
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2916, in _readline
ret = self._serial.readline()
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 5069, in readline
c = self.read(1)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 501, in read
'device reports readiness to read but returned no data '
SerialException: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)
2020-11-07 13:06:19,975 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Unexpected error while reading from serial port
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 501, in read
'device reports readiness to read but returned no data '
serial.serialutil.SerialException: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)
During handling of the above exception, another exception occurred:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2916, in _readline
ret = self._serial.readline()
File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 5069, in readline
c = self.read(1)
File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 509, in read
raise SerialException('read failed: {}'.format(e))
serial.serialutil.SerialException: read failed: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)
that really is a acupuncture needle
As far as your serial connectivity problem... I would definitely scour the documentation for your Melzi board and see if you can locate that alternate serial connection for your OctoPrint. Especially if it is already 32-bit.
32bit? I have an Atmega 1284P on the freaking board. It's 1990 8 bit Atari game console.
a loose pinion
a loose pinion
I used purple threader lock for all the screw related to motion... will see if it helps.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1106048;image)
*taps mic, looks around the room*
"Hello, my name is mnem, and I have a problem. I keep printing unicorn butts..."
mnem
"...and I swear, it's not on purpose!"
For a moment there, it looked like you were 3D printing molars for your dentist to install! :DNo, they mill those from biocompatible ceramic of some sort. Only takes half an hour or so.
I thought the Benchy was a small boat not a small horse butt. Anyway I am designing two custom CNC 4mm plates for the dual Z upgrade on my Ender 5. Stay tuned it will be fun.We won't talk aboot my Benchy habit... :scared:
If both are running can you sleep at night?
Also, smoke defector. Tested for effectiveness with smoldering napkin right above the build plate. ;)
... then you'll start getting false alarms from the printer just doing it's thing... ;D Well - that's what Murphy would have me believe.If you put a 5mm or so metal plate below them only the printers should burn and melt and nothing else... In the morning you will find a lot of smoke and nasty smell and that's it.
You mean nobody has a Dual-Z kit out for that model yet...? It's been out a while, hasn't it?
(https://media1.tenor.com/images/219cbc37f06f4b5d52587b4959604d00/tenor.gif?itemid=13697285) No, no synch belt...
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
I tend to agree (https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G034.html)
Independent drive and leveling > sync belt. You do need three, though.
I tend to agree (https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G034.html)
With 2mm pitch leadscrew, I'd agree. With the usual 8mm pitch, just one more assache to keep retuning over and over and over again. |O
mnem
:popcorn:
I am blown away...You know, I think having v1.3 be a variant of the OSHW SmoothieBoard (http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard) made them realize it is a good way to do this business. (Make no mistake, SmoothieWare has always explicitly encouraged others to do this (http://smoothieware.org/policy); this is a positive thing for all involved. Props to Arthur Wolf!)
schematics, manual, top and bottom layer everything is super well documented and available here (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0/Hardware)
BIGTREETECH finally someone in china is swimming upstream!
why don't you install a 0.2mm nozzle?
Nice stuff btw.
[...] The fact that models have small defects when 3D printed is sometimes a good thing. :o
xrunner once I have taken all the chinesium parts out from my ender 5, I will sell everything to you.
Very messy, realistic old looking, imprecise, and fuzzy 3D print results guaranteed.
:-+
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1114396;image)
Currently cogitating on something to make this a thing, rather than just a mockup with tape & paper-clip...
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1114396;image) Currently cogitating on something to make this a thing, rather than just a mockup with tape & paper-clip...
How the headphones are charged? Do you want a charger station as well?
Later, I did this mod to enable PWM control of the hotend fan (my board had only ONE PWM fan available)
My curiosity was piqued by the CR6-SE's approach: mount the entire hotend on a load cell and use that as the leveling sensor.
Just enable & use manual mesh bed leveling in Marlin. It has a menu selection in the Marlin menu that starts it and you just follow it from point to point. I'm doing 16 points and it works great. I leveled it once months ago and haven't had to touch it since. :-//
Bed Leveling Methods
Marlin includes various methods of probing and leveling:
“3-Point” probes a triangle to determine the height and tilt of the bed plane. During printing the nozzle is adjusted in X, Y, and Z, so you can even print on a badly-tilted bed. However, this method requires a very flat and even surface.
“Linear Grid” probes a square grid (as much as possible on DELTA) to determine the height and tilt of the bed. After that it works just the same way as 3-point leveling.
“Bilinear Grid” probes a grid in the same manner as Linear Grid, but during printing the Z axis is adjusted according to bilinear interpolation between the measured points. This allows the printer to compensate for an uneven surface,
“Mesh Bed Leveling” works in the same manner as “Bilinear Grid” but takes different G29 parameters. (This feature is superseded by combining the manual probe option with bilinear leveling, and will not be included in future versions of Marlin.)
“Unified Bed Leveling” combines elements of bilinear and planar leveling and includes extra utilities to help improve measurement accuracy, especially for deltas. See (link) for an article specifically about this feature.
soo I am moving to AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR Grid with PROBE_MANUALLY, I want to go 4x4 too.
Yeah, I'm not talking aboot the marketing wank ;); I'm wanting to know the nuts & bolts of how it actually works in the course of a print. How it THINKS. How many layers does it take to compensate? How exactly does it calculate compensation?
There is a fade height option, how that's specifically implemented is documented by the code. I don't even know if there's a default value or whether it effectively defaults to off without being explicitly set.
Yeah, I'm not talking aboot the marketing wank ;); I'm wanting to know the nuts & bolts of how it actually works in the course of a print. How it THINKS. How many layers does it take to compensate? How exactly does it calculate compensation?You mean you didn't GOOGLE? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multivariate_interpolation https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bilinear_interpolation ...That's a start
That's how it generates the entire offset table from the 16-point (or however many points) matrix, isn't it? That does NOT tell me how that table gets turned into an actual flat plane over several layers, or even if it does in fact "average out" rather than just apply that table throughout the entire print.
Obviously, how it affects the first layer or three is pretty self-explanatory; but after that, once the first few layers go down and adhesion is achieved, then what? I guess I'm not seeing where it explicitly states that it averages out in small increments to a zero offset, or if it just stops using the offset table, or if it does something else entirely. :-//
but my poor understanding of how the touchscreen interacts with it scares me.
but my poor understanding of how the touchscreen interacts with it scares me.
Was the same for me when I upgraded to this TFT touch (https://www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-tft35-v1-1-smart-controller-display-3-5-inch-touch-screen-compatible-with-mks-gen-v1-4-cntrol-board-for-3d-printer), but 10 minutes later I was back on the horse with no fear.
but my poor understanding of how the touchscreen interacts with it scares me.Was the same for me when I upgraded to this TFT touch (https://www.biqu.equipment/products/biqu-tft35-v1-1-smart-controller-display-3-5-inch-touch-screen-compatible-with-mks-gen-v1-4-cntrol-board-for-3d-printer), but 10 minutes later I was back on the horse with no fear.Keep encouraging him Zucca. I'll do so as well - between you and me we can get him to brick his machine real good. :-DD
My printer never had an anti-bnacklash nut for the Z axis. Now it does. When the lead screw was still disconnected from the motor I can definitely tell a difference.
But uhhhh... the lash & spring are supposed to be on the unloaded side, not the load-bearing side.
rigid/semi-rigid coupler
But uhhhh... the lash & spring are supposed to be on the unloaded side, not the load-bearing side.
So you are saying the hotbed weight should not compress but release compression on the anti-bnacklash coil spring? Or it is just related to that 3DP model?
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1118826;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1118830;image)
Printed this at 0.28mm DRAFT quality, with support everywhere and 3mm walls/2mm top/bottom thickness, concentric pattern. It's a bumper/toeplate for my son's longboard; he keeps whacking it into curbs and has chunked the point off one end. :palm:
Next is to trim/deburr and see how it fits. :-+ I really like how the coarse print actually becomes a nice grip surface. ;D
mnem
*punt!*
#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN)
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN PC12 // Set a custom pin for the controller fan // Zuk PWR-DET
//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_USE_Z_ONLY // With this option only the Z axis is considered
//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_IGNORE_Z // Ignore Z stepper. Useful when stepper timeout is disabled.
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_MIN 0 // (0-255) Minimum speed. (If set below this value the fan is turned off.)
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_ACTIVE 0 // (0-255) Active speed, used when any motor is enabled // Zuk FAN on LOW
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_IDLE 255 // (0-255) Idle speed, used when motors are disabled // Zuk FAN off LOW
#define CONTROLLERFAN_IDLE_TIME 60 // (seconds) Extra time to keep the fan running after disabling motors
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_EDITABLE // Enable M710 configurable settings
#if ENABLED(CONTROLLER_FAN_EDITABLE)
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_MENU // Enable the Controller Fan submenu
#endif
#endif
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1118826;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1118830;image) Printed this at 0.28mm DRAFT quality, with support everywhere and 3mm walls/2mm top/bottom thickness, concentric pattern. It's a bumper/toeplate for my son's longboard; he keeps whacking it into curbs and has chunked the point off one end. :palm: Next is to trim/deburr and see how it fits. :-+ I really like how the coarse print actually becomes a nice grip surface. ;DWhat type of plastic is it made of - ABS? Can you 3D print Nylon?
mnem
*punt!*
...Right now waiting on another roll of filament from Amazon to start on one for t'other end; by my calculations I have like 36 grams left and that just ain't gonna cut it. ;)Filament arrived, but it's not a perfect match to what I've been using. That was black-black and high-gloss; this is a little brownish and semi-gloss or satin. The brand I've been using was sold out, so I bought a 1Kg roll of FlashForge branded filament cuz it was on sale. Toeplate #2 is printing, so we'll see how it matches up tomorrow morning, I guess... :-//
Because it is morning hereabouts, and I'm not a morning person, I initially thought that LGT_KIT_V1.0 board was by BTT (and not Diggro), and wanted to check the details at BTT website. This is a screenshot of what I found.This is a trick some AliExpress sellers use to make private listings after discussion to organize a private deal.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1119150;image)
I wonder if their bolg tells more about the cheap wedding dresses they sell? :-DD
to fail short
I have to admit... I WAS hoping for the thing to just work, as the DIGGRO is already configured for serial control. I tried every baudrate available in the menu and swapping TX & RX in case it was labeled wrong but no joy; it wouldn't even finish booting then. :P
I'll have to see if I can find any documentation; it appears the FW has been revised as it is dated April 2020. I'm pretty sure the 6-Pin header is AVR-ICSP; I'm hoping the 8-pin is most of the pins for EXP-1 but that will probably require tracing out to the CPU.
Yeah, remember that this port is already configured in Marlin ...
...Right now waiting on another roll of filament from Amazon to start on one for t'other end; by my calculations I have like 36 grams left and that just ain't gonna cut it. ;)Filament arrived, but it's not a perfect match to what I've been using. That was black-black and high-gloss; this is a little brownish and semi-gloss or satin. The brand I've been using was sold out, so I bought a 1Kg roll of FlashForge branded filament cuz it was on sale. Toeplate #2 is printing, so we'll see how it matches up tomorrow morning, I guess... :-//
Yeah, remember that this port is already configured in Marlin ...
Yes, but what port number? Mine had to be port 2 before it would work. :popcorn:
Trying to figure out which FW is on this thing right now... |O
Ugggh. The "deep-dive" on the gitHUB was just filehandling instructions for config.ini; not any kind of in-depth study of the various settings. As usual with Marlin, I'll have to scroll through the whole effing thing and parse it as I'm reading.
This is going to be at least 2 coffees worth... |O
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
# Supported Marlin Firmware Version
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
# Minimum Marlin Firmware Version: 2.0.5.4
# Distribution date: 2020-05-12
# Source: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases
#
# Note: Ensure that following options are enabled in Marlin firmware
#
# M115_GEOMETRY_REPORT (in Configuration_adv.h)
# M114_DETAIL (in Configuration_adv.h)
# REPORT_FAN_CHANGE (in Configuration_adv.h)
# EMERGENCY_PARSER (in Configuration_adv.h)
# SERIAL_FLOAT_PRECISION 4 (in Configuration_adv.h)
# HOST_ACTION_COMMANDS (in Configuration_adv.h)
#
# For printing from onboard SD
#
# SDSUPPORT (in Configuration.h)
# AUTO_REPORT_TEMPERATURES (in Configuration_adv.h)
# AUTO_REPORT_SD_STATUS (in Configuration_adv.h)
# LONG_FILENAME_HOST_SUPPORT (in Configuration_adv.h)
# SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD (in Configuration_adv.h)#
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
# General Settings
#--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ugggh. The "deep-dive" on the gitHUB was just filehandling instructions for config.ini; not any kind of in-depth study of the various settings. As usual with Marlin, I'll have to scroll through the whole effing thing and parse it as I'm reading.
This is going to be at least 2 coffees worth... |O
Man you should be thrilled - you can't buy fun like you're about to have. :-DD
Welp, that didn't take long. Evidently there is something this thing expects to see from the serial comms that is only supported in Marlin 2.x.x. I'm still running the default FW
(with a few toggles switched on), which is based on Marlin 1.1.9.
I am blown away...
schematics, manual, top and bottom layer everything is super well documented and available here (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0/Hardware)
BIGTREETECH finally someone in china is swimming upstream!
Welp, that didn't take long. Evidently there is something this thing expects to see from the serial comms that is only supported in Marlin 2.x.x. I'm still running the default FW
(with a few toggles switched on), which is based on Marlin 1.1.9.
You need two serial ports - Marlin 1.1.x only supports one. That's why I was asking you what your second serial port was set to ...
I am blown away... schematics, manual, top and bottom layer everything is super well documented and available here (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V2.0/Hardware) BIGTREETECH finally someone in China is swimming upstream!Well I take it back.... the relay board V1.2 is funny.... :horse: fully story here, warning :bullshit: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-Relay-V1.2/issues/7#issuecomment-735447011 (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-Relay-V1.2/issues/7#issuecomment-735447011)
BTW, I want to sell my TFT touch... after one week of using it I do not like it and I miss my Marlin, which is more useful to get the job done. My personal opinion.....
BTW, I want to sell my TFT touch... after one week of using it I do not like it and I miss my marlin, which is more useful to get the job done.
My personal opinion.....
For those using mesh leveling there might not be any observable problems if there is effectively no backlash, or if the table is actually perpendicular to the z-axis. Has anyone noticed any cases where mesh bed leveling did have a negative effect on print outcome?
Does yours not have that capability? :-//
Question? Is mesh leveling convenient, but potentially harmful to print quality?
Here is my reasoning. With manual leveling you are lining the bed up with the movement axes of the machine. During printing the z-axis need only increment, making any backlash in this axis moot. With mesh leveling the machine finds the best fit plane to the measured points and tries to construct the model perpendicular to that plane. If the best fit plane is not perpendicular to the movement axes then z-axis travel up and down will be required, possibly making backlash an issue.
For those using mesh leveling there might not be any observable problems if there is effectively no backlash, or if the table is actually perpendicular to the z-axis. Has anyone noticed any cases where mesh bed leveling did have a negative effect on print outcome?
"Helps prevent Z gantry from dropping down when motors turn off"
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/upgraded-leadscrew-nut-for-creality-printers-anti-backlash-nut/ (https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/upgraded-leadscrew-nut-for-creality-printers-anti-backlash-nut/)
just a 4mm chisel-tip tinned a little heavy. Much less chance of damaging surrounding bits, especially fracture-prone MMLCCs. :-//
just a 4mm chisel-tip tinned a little heavy. Much less chance of damaging surrounding bits, especially fracture-prone MMLCCs. :-//
PTTC-704!
Marlin display says fan 100% but the cooling part fan does not spin. |O
I hope it is not a (µC) HW problem.
Fan no worky ... :(Fan or fan power pin b0rked? When testing the fan power pin, do remember to load it with a small power resistor (say 200 ohms) when measuring the voltage.
Oh, what's a little metal fatigue between friends...? ;)
Hot snot on a part of the printer which entire raison d'etre is to melt thermoplastic... What could possibly go wrong...? :-DD
mnem
:P
Uh huh.... and what if the fan stops working? Where will all the heat from that radiator radiate to...? ;)
FWIW, I always use (gasket) silicone for those. Also works to reduce vibrations if the fan touches metal. The lower the modulus, the better.
Uh huh.... and what if the fan stops working? Where will all the heat from that radiator radiate to...? ;)
LOL - if it ever gets hot enough due to a failure to melt a small dab of hot glue on the back of the fan (which wouldn't be of any concern in any case) - I'll have a lot more worries than that. :-DD
But it won't melt there. If it ever does you will be the first I'll report it to.
Repair done. :)
Maybe since I hack a fan more with the DCDC to control the controller fan, Marlin knows my board can support only two fans and somehow drop the first fan....
Will investigate.
#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
#if ENABLED(USE_CONTROLLER_FAN)
#define FAN2_PIN PC12 // Increase number of fans in Marlin // Zuk
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN FAN2_PIN // Set a custom pin for the controller fan // Zuk use pin PWR-DET
//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_USE_Z_ONLY // With this option only the Z axis is considered
//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_IGNORE_Z // Ignore Z stepper. Useful when stepper timeout is disabled.
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_MIN 0 // (0-255) Minimum speed. (If set below this value the fan is turned off.)
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_ACTIVE 0 // (0-255) Active speed, used when any motor is enabled // Zuk FAN on LOW
#define CONTROLLERFAN_SPEED_IDLE 255 // (0-255) Idle speed, used when motors are disabled // Zuk FAN off HIGH
#define CONTROLLERFAN_IDLE_TIME 60 // (seconds) Extra time to keep the fan running after disabling motors
//#define CONTROLLER_FAN_EDITABLE // Enable M710 configurable settings
#if ENABLED(CONTROLLER_FAN_EDITABLE)
#define CONTROLLER_FAN_MENU // Enable the Controller Fan submenu
#endif
#endif
Bottom line is sure, I'm playing up the worst case scenario for the sake of argument. Even so... everything I suggested is a real possibility. :-\
Even so... everything I suggested is a real possibility. :-\
FWIW, I always use (gasket) silicone for those. Also works to reduce vibrations if the fan touches metal. The lower the modulus, the better.
I can't believe I actually have to argue this... strain-reliefs on a thing made of moving wires is nothing less an obvious necessity, FFS. :palm:
So you do have some form of strain relief? Why are we having this discussion then? You already know it is important. ;)I can't believe I actually have to argue this... strain-reliefs on a thing made of moving wires is nothing less an obvious necessity, FFS. :palm:
Sorry but the repair I made is sufficient and will likely not fail again. There is no need for more strain relief in the area at this time. The other wires show no signs of any wear. The reason this wire broke is due to insufficient length from the last repair - not because of insufficient strain relief. The strain relief I have is more than adequate.
I would like to quote from the old TV show Kung Fu, when Master Po was teaching Caine another lesson, his advice -
"Accept the ways of others, respect first your own"
Good evening. :)
As for the Devil... he kicked me out for trying to take the place over. >:D
I thought you were going with a 3-stepper arrangement...? :o
CR-6 auto-leveling just plain works.
...but the real benefit for 3D printing for people with some technical skills is making repair parts, making custom devices and the like with low input of personal time.
*toddles off to ded* :=\
You are aware of this thread are you ?...but the real benefit for 3D printing for people with some technical skills is making repair parts, making custom devices and the like with low input of personal time.
This!
The majority of my 3dp projects are practical, replacements for broken parts, specialist parts or adapters that you cannot just buy, or improvements on existing designs.
Ded as in out to it in bed. Yep just mnem saying he's had enough for the day and if truth be known after an evening tipple I'll be right behind him. :phew:*toddles off to ded* :=\
I hope that is *Bed* and not *ded*... ;)
I like the BMG direct-drive extruder; it uses standard parts... except the cloners have produced a nice CNC version for 1/2 the price. And it's not very 'fang-friendly due to tension lever placement.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1086954;image)
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201011072619&SearchText=Titan+direct
Then of course there's the clone Titan direct-drive extruder, which can be had for ~$50 plus you figure out the mounting. I've toyed with that one for a while myself, but it is only single-side drive on the filament and... *head explodes*
mnem
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=818235;image)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1140142;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1140146;image) Left side finished. Looking good, fits the 54645A like it was made for it. Which it was. ;) Now printing right side. :-+
mnem
*wanders off in search of caffeine*
why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!Bit harsh. :-//
Now I'm waiting for Part II and Part III; where he makes filament out of the ABS shells and the Nylon spindles & rollers.(grinning by all 42 teeth)
why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!
Now I'm waiting for Part II and Part III; where he makes filament out of the ABS shells and the Nylon spindles & rollers.(grinning by all 42 teeth) https://youtu.be/XRwdie6QDPY (https://youtu.be/XRwdie6QDPY)
P.S. Well, there is a rational grain here, if you look at the prices of conductive filaments. And then the idea of making a filament from an old magnetic tape does not seem so barbaric anymore.
why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1140142;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1140146;image) Left side finished. Looking good, fits the 54645A like it was made for it. Which it was. ;) Now printing right side. :-+
mnem
*wanders off in search of caffeine*
7.5 hours; 40% done. Fortunately, printing a wedge does progress exponentially. :P
mnem
*goes back to hoeing out his drawers in anticipation of the new cart setup*
Now printing V2. ::) Fortunately, fixing that error does save me ~2 hours of print time and filament.:-+
Uggh. 14 hour print... test fit and I find I made a 5mm error on one of the walls, which put the rear foot pocket offset wrong by 5mm. :palm: And I measured it twice! only thing I can figure is I must've measured the same side again...
What the actual fuck...?If I'm totally honest using the exact same posts here and in the TEA thread is bit much. Sharing is fine, double posting may be a bit overboard.
Seriously? Who gives half a damn if I post that...? At least I put something here from time to time. Sure, we can let the thread dry up and blow away; just that much less content for Dave.
Because you know, there's so much aboot 3DP on here already... :palm:
Aside from that, like most of my posts I include actual details of what I'm doing, the settings I use, and why. This is the sort of thing people into 3DP do care aboot.
mnem
*back out into hell*
Shall we just drop it? The thread is that old that it does not matter.
Urrrgh. Oklay... the prefix Cura uses is determined by using the first character of each word in the printer name in the Cura Profile, but this is not the same as the name you give it in Cura. So to set a simple 2 or 3 char prefix, you need to edit the Cura profile. And keep editing it every time Cura updates. :palm:
Yup... just gonna turn the prefix off altogether: Settings> General> Opening and saving files> UNTICK Add machine prefix to job name.
mnem
Next.... victim.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1141520;image) This is probably my most ambitious design to date in terms of tolerances; it is a filament guide for my DIGGRO which uses PTFE tube tails and incorporates the filament sensor switch. Location of the switch against the filament feed and absolute location of the filament exit with regards the inlet on the extruder need to be pretty precise; we'll see how well I did...
No problems with Cura loading for me, and I've updated 5 or 6 versions now. I suspect a uninstall failure in your case; I'd look in the Cura forums for advice on how to manually uninstall everything and start over.
mnem
:-/O
mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?...
mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?
In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.
I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.
Yep, intermittent and been reported:
Anybody else having problems with page loads and "SMF Couldn't connect to database" errors...?
mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?
In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.
I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.
I kept getting stuck with FreeCAD. Many of the operations would produce errors, and I couldn't get good online solutions for them.mnementh, what software are you using for 3D design?
In perhaps 6 months from now I need to start designing a bracket that would be made from 3 or 4 pieces, similar to how your scope base connects together, but with each individual piece approaching the complexity of your filament guide. However, I will start out with little things first for practice.
I just started to dabble with FreeCAD 0.18. For reference I'm familiar enough with Altium PCB layout to get a general idea of the tools. I will be trying other software as time permits.
I have been using FreeCAD also.
I found the videos by Joko Engineeringhelp (https://www.youtube.com/c/JokoEngineeringhelp/playlists) very helpful.
Just noticed that he has some Fusion 360 videos also.
These two in particular have been very helpful:
...
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1144320;image)
urrrk. 36 hours printing, and the handle area just snapped off picking it up and shaking it a little. I thought a 8mm cross-section ought to be more than enough; the cups are only 2mm across and strong enough to stand on. :-//
I had random brittleness/layer adhesion problems with this filament before, when I was making the slide whistles; in fact, this project was partly just to use up this filament I got for free with the CR6.
The rest of the print seems very strong, so I'm thinking of mitigation solutions right now. Top of the list is to design and print a new handle out of the blue filament with concentric pattern in the stress plane, and epoxy it to the thing. We'll see how that works out once gird my loins for another wrestle with Frustion360. ;)
mnem
Hell is other people's software.
That's why so many printing channels test materials in two orientations. :) Though sometimes it pays to have a two part solution just so your layers aren't working against you. Like with any other process, design for manufacture saves a lot of pain.
I have successfully 3D printed G1/4 to 1/2inch hose barb pipe fittings that are fully air and water tight, but my yield is just awful, only 1 out of maybe 10 have the planets align just perfectly enough that the part actually passes my "water submerged with low pressure compressed air" test.
The biggest source of leaks for my parts have been the seam of the outside perimeter, and inner perimeters that have the seam aka start/end points aligned with the outer perimeter seam within the same layer, which makes for an effective micro air/water duct through the wall. I'm sure there are plenty of other micro-gaps in the print, but it's hard to see other issues when all the bubbles from the biggest culprit is obscuring all the other problems...
Does anyone know of a slicer that that exposes settings to control "over-running the perimeter" and/or "inner/outer perimeter start offset within each layer"?
Basically, in an attempt to seal the perimeter and eliminate the micro-duct created between the start and end point of the perimeter (usually referred to as the seam"), I want to see if squishing in a bit more plastic after the normal end point of the perimeter will fix the majority of through-the-part-wall leaking. Same question for offsetting perimeter starts within the same layer. I've been using Prusa Slicer exclusively and they have settings to adjust where the seam is located layer-to-layer, but that is the full extent of applicable settings I am aware of... I do not expect to get 100% perfection for air/water tight prints, but increasing the yield better than 10% would be a nice start.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1143862;image) We be farmin'... for the sake of domestic tranquility. :-DD
mnem
:-/O
Somewhere in here there might be a 3D Printer or more likely a custom PCB/Thin board engraver/mill. eBay auction: #184604850121 Estimated start date 2022-2024 :palm: (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/k04AAOSwz7Jf7-99/s-l1600.jpg) (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xlsAAOSwy41f7-g7/s-l1600.jpg) (https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/v2UAAOSwm0tf7-tn/s-l1600.jpg)Didjoo win it...?
:wtf: did he just say...? :oIt was a reference to an old anecdote about a dialogue between a tank crew (engaged in field repairs) and a fairy who offered to have sex for real: “Then the fairy waved her magic wand and the tank's tower fell off” (in another version, it was a student and a genie who poured out the whole cup coffee on the just finished drawings).
Scram is absolutely right here; this exchange pretty much sums up working with any 3D CAD program. Speaking as a user with very weak Kung-Fu, Frustion360 is the one you will more often get progress along with your (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) instead of just repetitive testicular trauma with no visible cause or end in sight.:rant:Welcome to CAD. You get to pick where it hurts, not whether it hurts.
FUCKING. FUSION.
Why the FUCK is it so gawddamn HARD to add text to an object? Why the FUCK does Fusion automagically HIDE SHIT all the fucking time?
This is supposed to be software to HELP me create... I should be able to just select a fucking surface and add text to it, for FUCK's sake. :palm:
Instead, it just (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=779856;image) every time I try to do what other people show me in a dozen different videos. I should NOT have to fucking outwit the gawddamn software that's supposed to be HELPING me. |O
/ :rant:
mnem
*toddles off to put ice on my aching balls*
ordinary heat-sink compound on the heater and thermistor
M106 P0 S[pwm]
/**
* PWM Fan Scaling
*
* Define the min/max speeds for PWM fans (as set with M106).
*
* With these options the M106 0-255 value range is scaled to a subset
* to ensure that the fan has enough power to spin, or to run lower
* current fans with higher current. (e.g., 5V/12V fans with 12V/24V)
* Value 0 always turns off the fan.
*
* Define one or both of these to override the default 0-255 range.
*/
#define FAN_MIN_PWM 216 // Zuk, new fan starting point
#define FAN_MAX_PWM 251 // Zuk, new fan max point
// When first starting the main fan, run it at full speed for the
// given number of milliseconds. This gets the fan spinning reliably
// before setting a PWM value. (Does not work with software PWM for fan on Sanguinololu)
#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 100 // Zuk new Sunon Blower
it doesn't blow the filament out of place in bridging mode and create flossy fuzz everywhere)
EDIT: I found the root cause, it is a communication idle timeout after M81
Turn off the high-voltage power supply. If the board is not powered from another source, this may also shut down the electronics.
In other news... AD is fuckerizing theirproductusers again. Guess it just hurts them so much that everybody actually expects them to keep their promise that it would be free for non-profit use. :palm:
So from now on, I'll be making multiple copies of every damned thing I design, in every conceivable permutation, just to be sure I can go back to it later when I want to.
Oh, what... does that waste precious server space, AD...? Then maybe you should make it less of a dicksore for me to archive my shit locally, dickwads. (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/test-equipment-anonymous-(tea)-group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=876074;image)
Or maybe, just maybe, they should actually make a sanely-priced tier for personal use... instead of demanding commercial-product prices, period, end of discussion. ::)
mnem
Adapt or die, motherfuckers.
QuoteTurn off the high-voltage power supply. If the board is not powered from another source, this may also shut down the electronics.
Yeeeowwwch. Looks like a lot of moving mass. :o
LOL... well, you've got the nice slickery railzz everywhere... but yeah, I get it. I've been experimenting with small increases in print speed at larger LH; my last few projects have been a fair amount of material so it does make a difference.Yeeeowwwch. Looks like a lot of moving mass. :oI prefer to sacrifice speed and have better results. :P (I hope)
using Cura for your primary CAD modeling is like doing brain surgery with a hatchet.A tool is a tool is a tool. Chainsaws were invented by surgeons to cut bone, predating any use with timber by at least a quarter of a century. :o
So... I should use a chainsaw instead of a hatchet...? :oFor brain surgery, most definitely.
Well okay... that is technically doing it in the slicer, but jeez... using Cura for your primary CAD modeling is like doing brain surgery with a hatchet. :-DDI would have approached it like this....
Trying to make the fillets and ribs and recesses for the little disc magnets... just thinking aboot that gives me heartburn. ;)
mnem
:o
As neat as 3D printers are, they sometimes aren't the best tool for the job. Or for the whole job.I'd argue they usually aren't, they're just a useful shortcut to quickly arrive at so-so results.
As neat as 3D printers are, they sometimes aren't the best tool for the job. Or for the whole job.I'd argue they usually aren't, they're just a useful shortcut to quickly arrive at so-so results.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1187326;image)Boring Mundane EverydayInteresting Fun Project Print #772: Bracket for Matrexx 70 Case
My son and I are building his first Gaming Rig; A Ryzen 5/Aorus Elite machine with my old RX580 GPU. I'm kicking my old case down for the build; that way I get the fun of building mine into a case designed for dual AiO liquid-cooling.
One of the nice bits of this thing is a glass shelf inside; it is supported by a HDD cage in the PSU tunnel. For obvious reasons, I wanted that to go away, so I'm printing up this bracket to attach to existing architecture inside the case.
Printed in BLACK PLA, 215°C/60°C, 0.28mm LH, infill manually set at 1mm grid pattern (this to produce adequate rigidity as I need to hand-fit to get the screw holes exactly right), 1.2mm walls, 0.84mm top/bottom w/concentric pattern, no adhesion, no supports. Cura sez 1 hour 55 min; I'll report back with pics when it's been fitted.
I'm bumping print speed up again to 70mm/Sec; pray for me. >:D
mnem
:-/O
...pray for me. >:D
...pray for me. >:D
Well.....? >:D
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1201192;image)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4773714/files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4773714/files)
mnem
:-/O
:-+ :-+ :-+ :-+
(Should be black, though.)
You mean power-steering fluid. >:D
mnem
:bullshit:
You mean power-steering fluid. >:D
mnem
:bullshit:
Possibly that also, but they famously had leaky fuel tanks on the ground because of the thermal expansion at operating speed.
A former colleague's dad flew the SR71, what an airplane!! Yes, they did leak fuel which was a special type fuel, not the standard jet fuel. Many fascinating stories on-line, like the transportation from Lockheed Skunkworks to the test area 51. Here's a couple images from the Air & Space Museum from 2013.You mean power-steering fluid. >:DPossibly that also, but they famously had leaky fuel tanks on the ground because of the thermal expansion at operating speed.
mnem
:bullshit:
Best,
@bean -
Yeah, they make a jig specifically for doing that; it has a hardened insert and there's even a stepped drill now that will cut reliefs in the wings of the 2020 for the head of the bolt. But of course, they are crazy expensive unless you're doing production quantities of holes.
Current project; a 6S 18650 cell holder for cell testing with my big charger. Uses the Keystone #209 battery clips I posted in the TEA thread; only, unlike every other motherplucking one on ThingiVerse, it actually uses them right side up. :palm:
Just goes to show you, not everybody who knows 3DP and CADD knows WTF they're doing. ::)
Those with a sharp eye will notice a separation line; that's where I cut the first cell off and made a STL of just that one for future use and Lego-ing as many as I want together in the slicer.
That one is printing; when it's done I'll post pics if everything fits as expected before moving on to the full 6S model.
mnem
:-/O
...The question should be with your model why didn't you make and individual one that will clip to it's neighbor for solo or multi cell printing >:D Keep on Fusioning .....
You mean that uber-long serpentine belt in the loading/robotics mechanism?
Ehhh... I'd def buy that. Aside from TPU being stretchy, its consistency will be different from the original so will tend to "walk" on the pulleys. As you will not be able to make it perfectly square, especially at that small a cross-section, I'd be concerned aboot it rolling, which will probably also affect positional accuracy. While these kinds of mechanisms can deal with some slippage, they often cannot handle more than a few mm one way or another when trying to perform a task.
IIRC, your TT is DD, so not for the platter. On those, I found the hard way that slap caused by using those "cut to fit & glue" belts almost always translates into cyclic rumble while playing. I would expect the same from the irregular surface you'd get from printing it in TPU.
mnem
:-//
Interesting alternate material sort of like PETG on steroids.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FtnXYDi7z0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FtnXYDi7z0)
Just need to double check the dimensions of a Galvanised M16 Nut (minor tweak to 5/8" if needed) before punching the print button on this.You do as M10 nuts can be 16 or 17mm.
Needed a fascia mount for a Deans Connector and no way in hell I am paying $10 for one and having to wait for it as well :palm:
So Rolled my own. I really need a slimline one for a particular job so a custom was needed really. It is something I had sort of been going to do for some time. Stupid thing had to be measured in both fractional and decimal thousand of an inch before I modelled it :palm:
Plan will be scuff up both bits and a little Epoxy for grip and hold.
Fuck Deans' connecters with a shovel. (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=81471.0;attach=876076;image)
Then set fire to all of 'em and use the shovel to bury 'em. The only thing I'll use 'em on is my floor sweeper, and that only because recycling them saves decent connectors for real work. I will never have a unshrouded connector on any of my RC craft ever again. :rant:
No, seriously... good design work, but I have misgivings, as I know these connectors intimately, and I know their weaknesses. :palm:
Even if your caps only have 1mm over the part, that's 2mm of contact area taken away from a connector that has always been sub-par. I would also be concerned that there will not be adequate pin engagement to prevent fall-apart, something I know from personal experience that these things are prone to do under the best of circumstances. |O
You can get AMASS XT60s next day from Amazon over here for ~$20/10 pairs; these are known decent quality and they come in bulkhead and PCB mount varieties now. I know you hate Amazon, but they have the right thing at a sane price, so... :-//
mnem
Friends don't let friends use Deans'. (https://filedn.com/lEDSGUXnO7mp9lWR3BbARrR/Emoticons/nah.gif)
They're crap, their claims of lower contact resistance have been thoroughly debunked, and where it really counts, they just can't carry surge current like an XT60, which is why nobody runs them on any high-performance quadcopter: They starve the motors for current, and it wobbles and falls out of the sky.
Meanwhile, XT60s happily pass more than 200A of surge current, XT90s even more. Deans' are maybe on a par with XT30s. :-//
Even on the entry-level 250-class acro quads, you can literally feel the difference just by changing connectors. I have proven this literally dozens of times in the pits just by giving people a set for free.
No, Deans' are and always have been over-hyped shit. The original ones were fucking plated steel shit. :palm: So are the claims that all the crap ones are cheap knockoffs.
I used to swear by Deans' ; now I swear at them.
Just like when Anderson bought out SERMOS industrial connectors, and renamed them PowerPoles and they suddenly cost 10x more. ::)
mnem
"Invested" is a poor excuse. ;)
What bean is talking aboot is a completely different animal; current demands were much less as we didn't have ESCs that could pass the high surge currents a modern multirotor ESC can. Steady current draw was high, but surge current is another thing altogether. In helis and planks, you have inertia on your side. With acro and race quads, you are fighting inertia every millisecond.
EDIT:
And yes, being starved for current for a few milliseconds can make a noticeable difference in an acro quad; it's not just your reflexes that matter here, but those of the processor in the flight controller. It does have reaction times that fast, and if the voltage sags instead of pushing a fast change in multiple ESCs at once, that turns into oscillation in one or more PID loops which ultimately becomes a wobble the eye can see, and lag in response you can "feel" when flying FPV.
/EDIT
The difference is in the logs... and I had years of log files showing voltage sag and surge current differences between the two on my acro quads; which proved what my experience racing dirt oval made me suspect all along: Deans' don't perform like XT60. Period.
I'm done arguing... Like I said; I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at 'em. They're a blight on RC.
mnem
Just say "No, thank you."
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
:popcorn:
(Sorry, I couldn't help myself)
What bean is talking aboot is a completely different animal; current demands were much less as we didn't have ESCs that could pass the high surge currents a modern multirotor ESC can. Steady current draw was high, but surge current is another thing altogether. In helis and planks, you have inertia on your side. With acro and race quads, you are fighting inertia every millisecond.
Circa Mid 90's we were using the first of the Brushless motors from Aveox and Pletenburg and pulling 2000W plus from the NiMH packs for F5B/D which is why we tested the available connectors, best AVAILABLE option here was 4mm bullets. Electric Helis were just about unseen due to flight times from the battery technology. With the battery limitations of the time local non F5 contest classes were typically sub 80A draw on 7 cell packs so Deans were still a reasonable option but it was a mix of Deans and 4mm bullets.
You need to stop inflating what the needs of Quads are, the peak currents on my 3kg Electric Helis with 6S 5000's doing Acros will dwarf the typical 800g Quad loads let alone those running 5kg 12S 5000's. Fairly 'normal' to see XT90's or 6mm bulets here.
Current F5B 'Gliders' are running circa 3-5 second bursts at about 3000W. SPACE is why they don't generally use XT's the plastic shroud and wire lead in and out, you need a shoehorn to get the packs in. There is simply no one shoe fits all!QuoteEDIT:
And yes, being starved for current for a few milliseconds can make a noticeable difference in an acro quad; it's not just your reflexes that matter here, but those of the processor in the flight controller. It does have reaction times that fast, and if the voltage sags instead of pushing a fast change in multiple ESCs at once, that turns into oscillation in one or more PID loops which ultimately becomes a wobble the eye can see, and lag in response you can "feel" when flying FPV.
/EDIT
The difference is in the logs... and I had years of log files showing voltage sag and surge current differences between the two on my acro quads; which proved what my experience racing dirt oval made me suspect all along: Deans' don't perform like XT60. Period.
I'm done arguing... Like I said; I used to swear by Deans', now I swear at 'em. They're a blight on RC.
mnem
Just say "No, thank you."
You are completely WRONG on this! Raving and heaping more generalized sweeping and emotively written :bullshit: with no foundation about Deans Connectors while considering only one narrow use case while making a definitive 'demand' for non use is DUMB. Use of the 'appropriate' connector that delivers extreme reliability is what is important and has ZERO to do with brand A or B!
And while I am at it using a fairly basic spade type connector on your e-bike while preaching XT supremacy is kind of 'interesting' >:D
In all the noise, has it been established that we are talking about the SAME product? Just because it's called the same, doesn't necessarily mean it IS the same.
For example, there are XLR connectors and there are XLR connectors. Comparing one of these sourced from a budget manufacturer against one sourced from an aerospace certified manufacturer could end up with a similar, pointless debate.
As an objective exercise - do you each have a couple of examples you could send to the other party for comparison?
a few clicks later the STL is a solid body you can work on
Quotea few clicks later the STL is a solid body you can work on
But it doesn't have the original component parts, right? That is, if you have a cylinder and placed a torus around it to form a lip, the stl conversion would be a single solid: a cylinder with a bulge around it.
Freecad will read the stl and let you do normal drawing things with it. (As will Turbocad, but the converted part is a big thing and very slow to manipulate.) But you can't change it in the way of, say, moving the lip a bit along (because it doesn't know it's a torus on a cylinder). Presumably Fusion hasn't found a magical way around that?
Sorry, not quite deciphered what you were saying! Did the part come out as two pieces, or did you convert to solid then manually separate them?
OK. I am hard pushed to think of a use case for this, to be honest. If I have the stl then I probably have the original design files, which would be preferable to work with. If I don't have those then I would find it difficult to trust the stl (if, for instance, it was someone's 3D model of a part). Kind of like having gerbers or gcode - OK for running off the physical part, but not so hot for manipulating the design.
That's a reasonable use case.
Boring Mundane Everyday Print #199: Bicycle Wheel Spoke Protector Disc
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1236219;image) https://a360.co/3ejgIr8
(SNIP)
mnem
And yes, I will post this on Thingiverse... in .STL and nothing else. >:D
ZIP package below includes both STL and .F3D files so you can you can conveniently print directly as-is or remix as needed.
I'm still using the "Free Hobbyist License" version of Frustion360; I don't believe that allows any of the collaborative features to be turned on. Or at least, I haven't figured out how. :-//
OK, Google. How to stop screaming? 3D printed 2.2 kW spindle mount for CNC3020 in action. (https://www.reddit.com/r/hobbycnc/comments/f2h068/22kw_spindle_on_the_3020/)
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1220707;image) (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/3d-printing/3d-printer-yet/?action=dlattach;attach=1220709;image)
I used circular pattern in frustion360 today...
Not sure I am quite ready to abandon the sometimes painful STL's yet but for new designs it makes sense and it seems their days are numbered FINALLY :clap:
Fusion based but most of the points are relevant regardless of CAD package.
Not sure I am quite ready to abandon the sometimes painful STL's yet but for new designs it makes sense and it seems their days are numbered FINALLY :clap:
Fusion based but most of the points are relevant regardless of CAD package.
Thanks. I had heard of 3MF but if this is "the future" fine. I just opened F360, hadn't used it in a while so it updated itself. Expected save as .stl to be gone but it's still there. Not sure why the video title had "Save as STL is gone!" maybe it was just a phrase to draw in viewers.
However, I opened a previous design of mine, saved it as .3mf, and it opened in Cura OK (set down to the lower left corner but not a problem at all). Sliced and diced same as usual. So sure, why not transition over from now on? I do sometimes hack up a model in Tinkercad from an .stl, but there are converters out there to go back and forth. Onward into the future ...
My cooler part fan sporadically does not work, it has nothing to do with the new fan installed.
I saw the problem also before.
annnd I am back....Or a spare printer. >:D Huh... so you found a actual bug, ehhh? :-+
Finally my Ender5 is back up and running after the relocation to USA.
A few updates.... and gotchas....
remember this problem I had?My cooler part fan sporadically does not work, it has nothing to do with the new fan installed.
I saw the problem also before.
well this is why (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/issues/459)...
It drove me crazy for months... now it looks like it is fixed.... double finger crossed.... I had to deactivate the speaker function in Marlin....
If you design a part cooler fan holder.... like I did... see here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775568)... print TWO copies... so if one melts down (other story)... then you have a spare to continue to print.
Nice; you designed your own 'fang. But uhhh... what are the two little rectangular nozzles side x side?
mnem
:-/O
What are peoples thoughts on the Anker 3d printer? I've had all sorts of printers in the past, but seem to be slightly attracted to this one.. not sure I'm going to do the kickstarter though... not got much faith in that!
Did I miss where we are printing our PCB traces by now? I know conductive filament exists but last I read it wasn't a suitable replacement for copper traces.