Boring Mundane Everyday Print #313: Camera Battery Door Bungee Bits 
Fusion360 Online 3D Viewer"heh-heh... he said bungee bits... heh-heh... heh-heh..." 
I had the idea for this while fumbling with my poor old Sony DSC-H2 to take pics for the print above; I've had this camera for over 10 years and I just can't seem to give up having it on my bench for stuff just like this. The optics on the thing are world-class; it takes amazing macro pictures right up to the point of hitting the lens with the subject, and taking pics on the bench, the fact of only being 6MP is actually a help rather than a hindrance. Means I can often post without having to resize.
That said... it has suffered being right next to the ol' BumbleButt dwagon for a decade... it's been knocked off onto the floor a time or three, and this family of cameras is known to have a failure where the catches for the battery door break, and the bit that breaks is part of the battery box inside the camera.
A fair assache to fix; and yes, I
have toyed with the idea of modeling and printing a replacement battery box, or at least some little bit to patch the thing.
So I've been using the thing for over a year with a piece of masking tape holding the battery door shut... but today I realized I could replace the tape with a gumband stretched between a screw in the base and the strap loop. So I worked these bits up real quick to make that happen.
I'm dead chuffed with the results; short of actually fixing the battery door like it came new, this is pretty much as easy to use as it can possibly be. Friction keeps the loops of the gumband from falling off the screw, and the hook is captive so can't fall off. Definitely puts my old beast back on the "good enough to use everyday" side of the bench.
This is my first successful attempt at printing a working thread; the hole in the camera base is 1/4-20 UNC x 7mm deep.
For those who use Fusion360 in metric like I do, you start out with a 6.35mm cylinder the length you want the thread in mm; once you select the cylindrical object, the thread tool becomes available in the CREATE menu.I've never actually tried before, as it has taken me a while to get to where I know how to prep rod-shaped structures with any real integral strength; today I used a couple tricks developed while figuring out how to print
DeadPool-icorn...
First, I used the finest LH in the profile: 0.12mm. Then I set temp up a wee bit over normal for the filament; 205 instead of 200, etc as needed for the particular filament.
After that, I set my infill manually to a very small size... in this case, 1mm in grid or cubic pattern.
And finally... I tell Cura I'm using a 0.2mm nozzle... even tho I'm using the 0.4mm. This makes it slice with a lot more lines, but the extrusion rate is correct for a 0.2mm nozzle; this results in the lines overlapping due to oversized nozzle.
Effect is that outer surfaces are not
quite as precise as if printed with a 0.2mm nozzle due to the smearing effect... but it is still far better than if printed using the 0.4mm profile. The adhesion strength doing it this way is phenomenal, because we are essentially making every pass a lap joint rather than layers of butt joints. I can tighten this 1/4-20 bolt as tight as I can hold it between my fingers and it doesn't break.
Printed on my CReality CR-6SE in Inland Brand black PLA+, 0.12LH, 0.2mm extruder profile with 0.4mm nozzle, 60mm/s, 205°C/60°C Bed, flow 110%, no adhesion/supports, infill set manually to 1.0mm Cubic, 0.8mm top/bottom, 0.8mm wall thickness. Otherwise all Cura defaults for CR-6SE profile. Print time 30 min/piece, 2 grams filament total.mnem
DeadPool-icorn: -group-therapy-thread/?action=dlattach;attach=1133470;image)
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