Products > 3D printing

3DP Resin wash/curing solutions?

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pipe2null:
I finally took the dive into resin printing and preordered a Phrozen Mighty 8k, which should be on its way to my doorstep in the next few weeks, so it's time to order all the accessories and a big box of gloves now that I'm adding resin to my 3DP lineup.  Various methods of washing with IPA and initial drying seem pretty straight forward (Worth noting: "Thou shalt not put IPA in an ultrasonic cleaning machine"), but curing machines seem ridiculously expensive for what they actually do compared to a plain ol' 405nm UVA black light LED roll or fluorescent black light tubes...

My new print volume is advertised as L21.8  x W12.3  x H23.5 cm.  I'll rarely use that much in actual prints, but probably should keep max size in mind ordering new toys for wash/cure.  And looking at big enough curing machines with big price tags for a glorified "light box" has prompted this post.  Heh.

Any favorites for wash/curing solutions?  Anyone gone the DIY route who might share your experience?  (like referenced in https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/clean-and-cure-resin-3d-prints )

Max2018:
The commercial option still sucks:
1. A4955 stepper driver
2. wrong type of ball bearing within the cleaning solution
3. magnets are not coated so they are also "consumables"

Overall go the DIY route or spend the money and time to fix the expensive off-the-shelf solutions (talking about Chinese manufacturers like elegoo or anycubic).

KaneTW:
I'm a Form user and I just use the wash/cure that they sell. Works well enough.

I don't recommend ultrasonics for cleaning because it can damage the not fully cured resin. The explosion risk isn't an issue per se, just put it in a closed beaker or get an Ex rated ultrasonic cleaner.

Max2018:
@KaneTW Yes it works but nothing to go home about:
The A4988 is loud.
1/16 microstepping so it is a jerky movement. This has caused a lot of models to fall over or otherwise slide around. This problem is amplified by the lack of UV LEDs on the top and bottom.

Easy solution: replace the stepper driver with a step stick module usually found in 3D-printers so you probably already have them laying around.
The tricky part is the soldering as the best place to get the signal is directly on the STM8S003:
pin1: step
pin2: dir
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
this is how my particular wash and cures looks after the upgrade:
[attach=4]
example video of an Wera micro screw driver standing upright (impossible with the default A4988 configuration):

Want more fun?
thermalpaste? no
[attach=5]
NTC soldered on? yes
NTC connected to the mainboard? no
fuse? no
steel ball bearing? checked
not properly coated magnet? checked
[attach=3]


TL;DR This product shouldn't cost $100. It is a cheap product after all.



KaneTW:
Are we talking about the same device? The Form Cure is pretty smooth and I've had just barely stable pieces not fall over.

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