Products > 3D printing

Direct Drive?

(1/8) > >>

Microdoser:
Ive been having issues with my Bowden tube getting loose, so I wondered how many of you have fitted a direct drive extruder to your printer, and if you did, which one did you choose?

Also, how have you found it to be?

beanflying:
Better fittings and Capricorm tubing https://www.captubes.com/ will solve a lot of your issues. Creality sells it now but I am not sure if they have stopped using bottom of the barrel fittings. My Ender and CR-10S work great post the upgrade without any fuss.

Direct drive lots of options out there now but keeping the weight down if you want to go faster is important and look at the usual youtube suspects for what is the latest and greatest. I am behind the times with these.

Whales:
I am under the impression that direct drive is more common than bowden?

I've been using the cheapest 3d printer I could find -- a $200AUD kit off eBay ("Geeetech i3") -- with the simple direct drive it came with and it has been working fine. It's literally a stepper, a toothed gear on the stepper (to grip the filament), some bits of metal, a couple of rollers, a spring and a screw to adjust pressure.  It did take some initial fiddling & modding: I increased the stepper driver current and took the heatsink off the side so I could see where the filament was feeding (the parts the heatsink was attached to barely get above ambient).

N.B. said cheap printer required two days of assembly and lots of tweaks overall to get working well!  Not for the faint hearted.

MarkF:
- Creality CR-10 Mini
  -- Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing
     --- Bowden Clips  or try these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3722071

Never looked back.  No more problems.

When installing the bowden tube, I leave the fitting about 1/4 turn loose, push tube completely in, tighten fitting.
This final 1/4 turn forces a little more pressure on the tube to insure that it is tightly seated.

Microdoser:

--- Quote from: beanflying on June 03, 2021, 09:33:50 am ---Better fittings and Capricorm tubing https://www.captubes.com/ will solve a lot of your issues. Creality sells it now but I am not sure if they have stopped using bottom of the barrel fittings. My Ender and CR-10S work great post the upgrade without any fuss.

Direct drive lots of options out there now but keeping the weight down if you want to go faster is important and look at the usual youtube suspects for what is the latest and greatest. I am behind the times with these.

--- End quote ---

I'm already using Capricorn tubing and the fittings that came with it. My main concern is quality not speed, from what I have read that improves with direct drive.

From further examination of when it happens, it seems to be a problem of filament solidifying in the nozzle. Running higher temps seems to stop the problem, although I am now at 220-225C for PLA... I am also printing some extra thick clips to make sure the push-fit plastic bit does not work to a place where it removes pressure on the pipe.

This is one reason why I am thinking of changing the whole hotend, and if I am doing that then all options are on the table, including a direct drive conversion at the same time.


--- Quote from: MarkF on June 03, 2021, 11:34:24 am ---- Creality CR-10 Mini
  -- Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing
     --- Bowden Clips  or try these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3722071

Never looked back.  No more problems.

When installing the bowden tube, I leave the fitting about 1/4 turn loose, push tube completely in, tighten fitting.
This final 1/4 turn forces a little more pressure on the tube to insure that it is tightly seated.

--- End quote ---

I'll give that a go, I have seen that some people push extra tubing through the nozzle before screwing on the fitting then splay out the tubing and lightly hammer it flat to the end of the fitting so it forms a flat end that is screwed tight to the internals. Wouldn't help with the hotend though. Your tip might.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page