Products > 3D printing

First 3d Printer, im a total noob.

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Infraviolet:
Personally I get a specific brand of filament from amazon and it works great, "eryone" PLA. I had tried buying branded (polymaker) filaments from more specialist suppliers beforehand but had bad luck with them (poor bed adhesion, reel snapping halfway through a print...).

This range of PLA across various colours has worked well for me:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GNHZR1F/

I'd only buy plain colours, one should be very cautious about shiny (metal flecked) or glow in the dark type filaments, as they can have additives which wear away nozles very quickly.

wilhe_jo:
FYI, my little farm runs exclusively on Ender 3 V2.
The roller guides make them basically maintenance free.

I have replaced the springs with cheap silicone spacers.

For the extruder, I use full metal dual gear ones from the CR10 series. Those last about 1000h of printing and cost around 15€... Maybe they last longer if properly greased from the beginning and if you're not running linear advance... Which I stopped since prusa slicer allows limiting the change of filament flow.

The extruder is now from E3D ... A revo micro... The revo CR should be a even smoother mod.

The classic nozzles always started leaking after some 100h of printing.

If you are okay retightening, the full metal hotends from the CR10 series are fine. Depending on the print temperatures, bi-metal heartbreaks can help.
For PLA, a stock full-metal hotend is fine.
Prusament PetG benefits from bi-metal ones.
Lower temp PetG (eg Extruder) is ok with the normal ones.

The stock hotend is shit. The PTFE tube pressed against the nozzle gives you really a bad experience compared to the full-metal one.

ATM, I'm also converting one printer to a E3D Hermera. This includes dual Z because the Hemera adds quite some weight and the filament pulling force isn't neglectible either.
This is conversion is simply because I have an upcoming application for soft TPU.

Oh, and I have mounted CR touch probes... Very smooth upgrade thanks the brackets and the ready made cables :)

The last thing I'm now experimenting with is the build surface.

The glass bed is fine for PLA.
PEI film on spring steel is ok for PetG, but wears relatively fast (it "chips" off).
BuildTak is ok for PLA on a magnetic bed.
ATM I'm testing PEI powder coated spring steel sheets from Creality. I don't have too much experience up to now, but this is really really really promising. Howevery, you should be ok with the texture.

FR2 and pertinax is coming as well. I tested this in the past and it was fine. However, I'm not sure how well it will do when combined with a magnetic bed.
In addition, the textured PEI beds are really nice so far. If they last 500h (thats about 100 prints on the same position on the sheet) of printing, I think I may skip these alternatives.

Regards

Lindley:
@wilhe_jo   -have you experienced any psu problems with your V2 ?

As you can see in the pic of our V2 PSU  the air inlet has been reduced somewhat by the grille and there is no air outlet  ?
It is a Meanwell PSU but even so you would expect a decent airflow on any psu.
We modified the cover as below.




wilhe_jo:
No. PSUs are fine. Everything is stock there.

ATM, I have had 1 Roller bearing to replace and 1 extruder isn't running since a week or 2.. I hope that's just a problem in the wireing...

But that's two manual interventions in 2 years for 5 printers.

Yes, you need to inspect them on arrival and you need to basically reassemble them.
Yes, you need to invest some money if you go the E3D route I explained above.
But if you do, you get a pretty stable and competitive workhorse which news close to zero maintenance.

Just slice, print and get the part some hours later...

The only time consuming part is dialing in your filament... 0.6mm prints fast as hell, but cooling is really a problem at 0.48mm layer height and cooling fans and PetG are not always good friends.

73

mendip_discovery:
So I have printed a few bits but I was suffering with really good bed adhesion so I ended up with the bottom few layers being stuck to the bed and ripping away from the part. Poor Benchy.

There are a few examples on the memory card and they use both filaments and I was pleased at how they came out. I have yet to print the Dragon but more on that in a moment.

I got some ABS and tried to print a case for a Raspberry Pi I have. 4 attempts and it would just peel in a corner. I suspect a room that gets down to 11°C is a bit of a pain as I think that is causing too much difference between temps. Bed at 50°C, heads at 220°C and a cold room = warp. I have the heating on today and am currently at 16.5°C so will give it a bit more time and then try again. I may well build a shelter for it but during the summer the room is a good temp. I might try the Dragon later if it warms up but that is an 11hr print.

The software that comes with the unit is crap. Its a slicer but lots of info is oddly worded (Chinglish) and it's a little clunky to use. The machine was advertised as working with Cura etc slicers but as of yet it isn't actually working or even near completion.

The machine isn't too bad, there are some reports of them letting the magic smoke out of the boards causing a failure. Mine says it has been on 17hrs and though I have been good and powered off once the head gets down to 30/40°C on powering up the fans make a bit of a racket so I may have to look at nicer fans for that. The fans are also always on, even when not printing. I may suggest a code change to turn the fans off if the head is cool enough just to save the noise. The machine itself is rather sturdy and prints fairly quietly, compared to my K40 laser cutter.

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