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dunkemhigh:
Not yet. I thought I would work my way through the least messy first, hoping I don't get to the really messy solution. So hairspray next.

dunkemhigh:

--- Quote ---Photos below show a variety of marks on my tape
--- End quote ---

Forgot to say earlier: that's a nice little setup you have there  :-+

Whales:

--- Quote from: dunkemhigh on September 16, 2021, 10:26:24 am ---
--- Quote ---Photos below show a variety of marks on my tape
--- End quote ---

Forgot to say earlier: that's a nice little setup you have there  :-+

--- End quote ---

Thankyou :)  Screwing the shaped board to my bookshelf to fit it has been perfect.  It's now "ready to print" any time, rather than requiring me moving it, wiring it and re-levelling it every time some small printing takes my fancy.

This printer design has a fatal flaw in that the left and right steppers for the Z axis go out of sync if you apply outside force to the gantry (eg when changing filament).  Until I worked this out I was constantly recalibrating bed levelling to suit the crooked gantry.  Now instead I use two high-precision calibrated german manufactured length standards (read: two flat AAA batteries) to fix this problem:

1. Home
2. G0 Z40 (raise the gantry 40mm)
3. Place the two AAA's against each vertical threaded rod
4. G0 Z0 (lower the gantry until it crashes into the AAA's and skips several steps)
5. G0 Z10 (relieve pressure off the AAA's)
6. Remove AAA's
7. Home again.

Voila, everything is straight and reliable now.  I do not have to re-level the bed anymore (unless my dodgy Z-top wiggles, but then I wiggle it back).  I literally do a few prints, leave it for a few weeks, come back and print some more without having to worry about levelling (or buying auto-levelling devices).

When I printed directly onto the glass I had to change the Z-stop (or re-level) when changing between PLA temps and PETG temps.  I have not had to do this at all for a long time, I think a combination of a fatter first layer (0.35mm, even when doing the rest as finer layers) and the soft masking tape has helped me here.  Again, avoiding the fiddly stuff means I can just print whenever I want now :)

EDIT: Said length standards can be seen stuck to a magnet on the top-left of my printer in the earlier photo.

dunkemhigh:
The Dreamer is three-point manual adjustment, so a bit of a faff (although it's actually reasonably quick and simple).

Hairspray is a no. Not just because it didn't work but also because it stunk the office out.

So, on to masking tape which worked very well indeed! Didn't need to prise the model off at the end, but it didn't fall off either. If it works like this every time my search is completed  :-+

Just remains to see how long it will last before needing to be resurfaced.

Whales:
Never tried hairspray.  I didn't remember that the stuff stinks, thankyou for testing it for me  ;D

Recently someone suggested I make some skins over 3d printed frameworks using crepe paper and hairspray.  Might rethink that, try and find out what else I could use.

Glad you found something that works.  I've read claims that different brands/types work and others don't, but it might just come down to cleaning the human grease off vs not.  EDIT: I wonder if plain A4 paper works if you clip it down...

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