Hack Zortrax Driver board? Port Klipper?

[harryz]

Anyone interested in topic?

I have M300+ and it's a pain:
* Trash glitchy firmware with closed control format and no splines
* Trash slow and limited slicer software with issues of support distance on angles
* underpowered X-Y motors that make constant issues with layer shifts.
* Super low speed and lack of input shaping.
* Service nagging
* Bad design of often failing extruder cable
* Shit of a heat-bed
* Use of 12V Fans in 24V PWM system
* No part lists, pulled stickers form motors and fans
* Component stock always lacking, but will never tell you real part numbers
* Generally bad or no communication

Now, most of this would be easily solved with getting Klipper on the MCU board and forgetting about Zortrax.
But of course, as any "smart ass" would do - thye laser etched the chip names for MCU and drivers out.
Of course by packages and pin connection on board as well as reading some registers and scoping for quartz freq - we can clearly deduce the part numbers:

MCU is STM32F103VE and driver is LV8729V.
Android CPU is Allwinner A33

More and detailed info on my github, including debug pinout and some STlink / reg logs: https://github.com/zharijs/zmxxxp-re

1. Anyone interested? Up for collab?
2. Do you think I should try power glitch + ram exec attack on it to dump the firmware before trying to port Klipper to it?
3. Can anyone confirm if M300 dual, M200+ and OG M200 has same board? It seems they have as there's clearly port for the old LCD that is populated with piggyback board with buzzer and there's a "WiFi" module socket populated with piggyback to power Android Display and serial port to it. So I would guess the main board never changed after it was finished?
4. As far as I found, there are single VIAs to each of hte motor drivers - I wonder how well does that work. Should start limiting current above 2A or so I would guess.

Cheers, h-z

[Coordonnée_chromatique]

You seems to be very skilled but it is a gigantic work, i've seen an M300 equipped with a BigTreeTech SKR V1.4 Turbo 32 bits, it should be a lot easyer no ?

[harryz]

The board is rather simple. To get it to run Klipper should not be that hard.

Now - getting the Android part running Linux and some UI on it would be a bit harder.

Anyway -  I have 1/5th pins mapped out already. I'll post the note to git later.

I'll probably also try to get bin form the chip by ram exec / power glitch method just to see if it's works and to have a backup of original bin jsut in case.

About the time - yes, it will take some for me and whoever jumps on, but in the end it'll be a 1h upgrade for everyone else left with the barely usable m200 / m300 series (as I believe boards are likely same except for dual).

So in way of "larger picture" it makes sense to me to use existing hardware as much as possible. Also, the board is close to BTT SKR anyway. Well, tbh, they all are either shitty Arduino or SMT32F103/407/etc. Potato/Toamto.

[harryz]

* MCU board reversed, schematics drafted (at least he parts that matter)
* MCU board "WIFI" piggyback (goes to Android) schematic and connector pinout drafted
* MCU board "DISPLAY" piggyback (goes to optical end stops and hosts buzzer) schematic and connector pinout drafted
* Full (I think) MCU pin map done
* more pics
* more datasheets
* updated stm32cube file for pinout

All posted to https://github.com/zharijs/zmxxxp-re

h-z out.

[DrdPrtRgrs]

G'day Harry.
Already sent you pms through other forums, but I'd like to contribute. I'd made a start on my m200 but you seem way ahead based on the github. At the very least hopefully I can work parallel on the m200 and note any key differences, and step through the listed action items on the GitHub.
The main board looks identical for the m200, based on pictures, except it has an unused esp wifi chip that came pre installed, easily removable to no effect as it uses standard pins and not soldered. 
I'll check revision and everything tonight, but would love to get details on what method and pins you used to communicate and read the board. I think with the details you've given it will probably be much simpler to figure out why I couldn't the first time, but obviously it'll be much quicker to confirm from you so I don't spend a bunch of time being over cautious worried about shorting the wrong pin etc.
Then I can quickly confirm whether key components are the same or not.

[harryz]

I am quite sure you will be able to use the schematics. I'm interested in changes, but I expect:

1. You just don't have anything related to Android (Ethernet, USB hub, Button, front USB, level shifter and android boards)
2. The "WIFI" port on your machine is empty and in "DISPLAY" port you have a small board with graphical LCD on one SPI, SD card on other SPI and knob and buttons and buzzer on GPIO.
3. NOT sure if you have power fail detection
4. MCU pinout might have minor changes on older boards. Not sure - could be anything if it took them 5 major versions to come up with it.

Ah-ha - same board - thought so. Curious on what's the revision on yours will be.

Oh, very interesting - they shipped it with ESP32 WiFi and planned to use it as some WiFi bridge to Serial port or as host G-CODE (Z-CODE) processor? That's a cute idea. Does the module have internal antenna? That'd work well in metal box

As for the MCU debugger connection - I just used STLINKv3mini with a custom adapter I made for the debug port:
https://github.com/zharijs/zmxxxp-re/blob/main/Reverse/STM32F103%20stuff/Debugger%20Connection.png


Then I jsut used STM32CUBEprogrammer utility to connect to MCU and upon connection, of course, I get memory read error when it tries to fetch the binary as flash is locked. But at the same time connection is complete, we get 0x414 device ID and we can read all registers.

At this point we have multiple choices:
1. We jsut erase the chip so we can start coding and porting and writing to it.
2. We try to get the bin with the ramexec/powerglitch (needs modification to board to glitch the power of MCU - taking caps off, disconnecting the buck chip)
3. De-solder the chip. Solder brand new on on. Use the desoldered chips on a breakout board to do do ramexec/powerglitch later while working on the porting on the board with new chip.

I lean to go for option 3 just to have backups.

h-z

 

[Coordonnée_chromatique]

It is a cartesian printer, why use clipper instead of malin ?

[harryz]

My considerations are taht Klipper does:

1. Offloads heavy math to Linux board doing only the motion itself. Makes it faster.
2. Better kinematics and precision
3. Pressure advance instead of linear
4. Expandable to Additional I/Os on andditional klipper boards or Linux GPIO

5 What I actually want - Input shaping. And yes, I know Marlin sorta has it also, but there's no automatic loop calibration as far as I know.

6. I feel Klipper is more progressive solution in general. I don't want to rebuild Zortrax - I want to make it 2024 machine.

But with this work I'd also want the bottom line to be you-do-you-boo kinda thing. If anyone wants Marlin or a custom firmware on it - just fork my repo, use the reverese engineered parts you need and do roll your own as it goes. 
I guess what I'm saying is I kind of know my thing in boards, but I am no way pro in 3D printing. This story is about getting your own stuff on Zortrax boards and in no way about what exact stuff you should be getting on them.

h-z

[Coordonnée_chromatique]

The filament from different manufacturers or the same manufacturer with some viscosity dispersions between diferent batchs require significantly different pressure advance values.
It should be a little messy a to have to set up the values ​​for each spool, no?