Off Topic Hobbies > 3D printing

Looking for 3D Printer Kit

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Ranayna:
I experimented more yesterday with the Z adjustment.
And by now i am sure that the textured sheet does indeed not really work with PLA. I am a bit miffed... If i had known that, i would not have ordered the textured sheet. While i want to print PETG, PLA will remain my main filament for the foreseeable future, if only to use up all the spools i have lying around ;)

With a live-z of -1.400 after initial calibration, the Prusa Logo print detached during the print. At live-z of -1.500, the first layer curls up, so that is apparently too close to the bed. A live-z of -1.450 works for me at the moment, but the edges of the print still curled up a bit. I will give the sheet a wash this evening and try again, but this is not satisfying.
Since i can't just rub fingerprints off the sheet, like i could with the mirror bed of the A8, i need to get used to using a paper towel to pick up prints from the bed :D

What is the best practice to change materials?
I have not tried doing so yet, but due to the different temps i suspect that when changing from PETG to PLA, any PETG residues remaining in the nozzle will create issues.

beanflying:
Look up 'cold pull' on youtube works fine with the Bowden/Creality setups but it should work ok on the Prusa to get most of the old filament out. Changing back to PLA just crank some through manually at PETG temps before you go back to PLA Prints as normal the PLA will be ok at this Temp for a short swap.

With all surfaces I go a Detergent wash, Hot Water Rinse or two, then a really good wipe over with IPA. 99-100% don't whatever you do use 'medical grade or sanitizer the 70% has nice smelly oils and water among other things so it no fit for purpose.  ;) This allows my to run problem free on Glass without anything or Creality Textured beds for PLA and a wipe of Bostik Glue Stick for PETG.

Ranayna:
So, i gave the sheet a good rub, and it seems to work better now. The raft still brushes off easily, but the print holds firm, with only very minor liftoff at the very corners. But that also happened on the glass bed of the A8, and with the rough surface of the textured sheet this effect is a lot less noticable.
I have printed the Prusa logo with all PLA filaments i have available (some of them quite old now), and all but one came out great. I have slight underextrusion for the one that does not work properly.
I noticed that the gray filament that was included with the kit makes the structures of the first layer very visible. On the other colors (black, blue, orange and transparent) the first layer looks really good.
Also i was sure i needed to write off my spool of black filament that was in open air for several months. But i could load it without issues, not even the tip broke off, and the print came out fine. I'm starting to get the feeling, that, at least for my location, the dangers of air moisture are maybe a bit overstated, at least for PLA.

This evening i will finally have time to slice some models and see how they work. I will see if i can find an old stl that i have also printed with the A8, to compare.
I will post pictures and a more detailed writeup about my experiences so far on saturday or sunday.

hli:
The "Live Z my way" linked above really helps with getting the first layer right. The 75mm square is big enough to test e.g. 4 different Live-Z values (e.g. 0.025mm apart) and then decide which one is the best (for PLA: the top-side feels not rough, and the single threads do not separate but form a full first layer).
When changing between PLA and PETG I usually do no cold pull - the temperature difference between them is not big enough to cause problems. But I do print a first layer calibration after the change, each material, even when using the same sheet, needs a different first layer. PLA likes to be squished onto the bed, whereas PETG can be printed more loosely (it sticky very well by itself, and when squished too much it curls up onto the nozzle). That print also helpd in cleaning out the nozzle.

Pineapple Dan:
Which printers use only cloud-based slicers? Where is the rationale in making such a printer? That would seem like a horrible design flaw to me

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