removing the BL touch from an ender 3

[Simon]

When I first got my printer they forgot to include the BL touch, I ran it regardless and it worked fine. Then the BL touch turned up and I dutifully installed it. My god what a piece of fucking shit! I have never had a print start flat on the bed since, it is absolutely useless - worse! I had no issues before, now that I used it things are bad.

How do I remove this garbage? there are so many firmware versions now available and most expect this little piece of shit and will not work without it, how do I remove it? I'm grown up enough to be able to level my own bed thanks.

[sokoloff]

I've had good results from the BLTouch and the Creality version (CRTouch) on a couple of Ender 3's, first using Marlin and now using Klipper.

Once I got my head wrapped around Klipper, I haven't looked back and have been very happy with it. It has a learning curve, but it's not particularly steep, especially with a well-known/very-common printer like an Ender.

If you want to just stick with Marlin, I'd follow the same process you used to flash the BLTouch firmware onto it, just flashing a version that doesn't have touch support.

[Simon]

what is marlin? I have an ender 3 v2, they make nothing clear. If you look around plenty of people complaining about the BL touch. I had no problems before installing it, since using it I have had all sorts of problems, it's hopeless.

[xrunner]

When I first got my printer they forgot to include the BL touch, I ran it regardless and it worked fine. Then the BL touch turned up and I dutifully installed it. My god what a piece of fucking shit! I have never had a print start flat on the bed since, it is absolutely useless - worse! I had no issues before, now that I used it things are bad.

Well that's your experience but I (and many others) don't share it. You don't have it set up correctly or it has a fault. The BLtouch is the best single thing I have added to my printer since I got it. Works perfectly and I wouldn't ever be without one.

How do I remove this garbage? there are so many firmware versions now available and most expect this little piece of shit and will not work without it, how do I remove it? I'm grown up enough to be able to level my own bed thanks.

The simplest thing to do is don't use it at all. Just level the bed manually. If you know how to install Marlin then you can just disable the BLtouch in Marlin configuration.h and install the firmware and the menus for BLtouch will be gone.

[Microcheap]

Marlin is the firmware run by most of the 3D printers. Each vendor will tweak it for their machine but you can easily reconfigure, recompile and install a custom version to enable or disable many features in you printer.

I have another printer (Anycubic Mega S, now heavily modified) and I also didn't have a good result using a leveling probe.

The simplest way to disable the BLtouch is in your slicer software.

Assuming that you are using Cura, go to the machine settings and in the "star G code" box delete or comment out the line "M420 S1". If you followed the Ender-3 guide, you should have a "G28 G29" line instead, just remove the "G29" command.

[Simon]

When I first got my printer they forgot to include the BL touch, I ran it regardless and it worked fine. Then the BL touch turned up and I dutifully installed it. My god what a piece of fucking shit! I have never had a print start flat on the bed since, it is absolutely useless - worse! I had no issues before, now that I used it things are bad.

Well that's your experience but I (and many others) don't share it. You don't have it set up correctly or it has a fault. The BLtouch is the best single thing I have added to my printer since I got it. Works perfectly and I wouldn't ever be without one.

Um, you bolt it on and that is it, what is there to "set up"? They provide a marlin bin file, I'm not really wanting to get into compiling stuff, it's like this is no longer an optional accessory, it's forced on me.

[sokoloff]

You could put back the previous bin file if you like. (If you didn’t change the firmware originally, then it’s just a matter of unbolting it.) Compiling marlin may feel daunting, but honestly it’s quite straightforward if you’re just going back to a known state.

So many people have good results with auto bed probes that I wonder if you’re working with a defective one (either internally or mounted such that it’s not repeatable or at the wrong X, Y offset or something else is amiss in the printer mechanics).

Past that, you now tweak Z height with software rather than the 4 bed wheels. My experience was great once I got everything roughly level (trammed square) with the 4 wheels (and the bed springs fairly tightly compressed, in my case replaced with stiffer ones) then all my adjustments to get a perfect first layer are in software. I don’t think I’ve touched the wheels in over a year of printing.

[xrunner]

Um, you bolt it on and that is it, what is there to "set up"? They provide a marlin bin file, I'm not really wanting to get into compiling stuff, it's like this is no longer an optional accessory, it's forced on me.

Um, no that's not "it". There's a lot of setting in the firmware config files

#define BLTOUCH_DELAY 300
#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE true
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -44, -4, 0 }
#define PROBING_MARGIN 60
#define XY_PROBE_FEEDRATE (150*60)
#define Z_PROBE_FEEDRATE_FAST (4*60)
#define Z_PROBE_FEEDRATE_SLOW (Z_PROBE_FEEDRATE_FAST / 2)
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
#define MESH_INSET 15
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5 
...

Oh wait -

They provide a marlin bin file, I'm not really wanting to get into compiling stuff, it's like this is no longer an optional accessory, it's forced on me.

You don't want to fix it you want to remove it. OK I forgot. 

The BLTouch works. If it's not working on your system maybe it's (the BLTouch) is malfunctioning?

[Simon]

I followed the instructions to put it on and it does not work, the firmware comes as a bin file already set up to work. It seems that for a few updates there has only been BL touch versions. I want up to date firmware with no expectation of a BL touch, I mean really all this fuss? No I don't need the damn thing, I have a glass bed it's not like it warps, I am perfectly capable of setting the printer up to work properly, the touch is just for laziness! I want my printer back.

[Lindley]

Would be interesting to know exactly what make of the device you have been supplied with, as said there is the genuine BL touch, Crealities own and a host of cheap clone BL touches.

We fitted a clone to our E3 V2 and it works ok, though along with a friend who has 2 different BL touches we did some detailed tests for accuracy and the all did well though the geniune BL was top and the clones bottom, though still very good to use.

As for your software problems,  cannot see what that is, all you have to do is download Crealitys original Firmware (links below)  and pop it on to the  microSD card, you should then be back to the original status.
You need to refit your Z microswitch and original cables etc, and also make a note of the Mainboard type so you can download the correct firmware 4.2.2 ( like ours) or 4.2.7

https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-v2

https://howchoo.com/ender3/ender-3-v2-firmware-update

[Simon]

It came from creality, it's crap and I want to remove it, I don't care for anyone's opinion! Listen, I got this to print on plain glass with no raft or brim or glue, or hairspray or any of that in PLA first time round, as soon as I put the touch on I had constant mixed results of adhesion even when I turned the glass back over and used the side with the surface that helps adhesion. I know how to print, I just don't need the randomness introduced by this shitty piece of junk. After several years of setting up manual single colour offset printing presses to print full colour prints this little thing is a doddle providing something else does not try to think it can do better than me!

[sokoloff]

OK, so take it off mechanically and put the original firmware that made you happy back onto the device.

This doesn't seem to be one of Labors of Hercules.

[Lindley]

It came from creality, it's crap and I want to remove it, I don't care for anyone's opinion! Listen, I got this to print on plain glass with no raft or brim or glue, or hairspray or any of that in PLA first time round, as soon as I put the touch on I had constant mixed results of adhesion even when I turned the glass back over and used the side with the surface that helps adhesion. I know how to print, I just don't need the randomness introduced by this shitty piece of junk. After several years of setting up manual single colour offset printing presses to print full colour prints this little thing is a doddle providing something else does not try to think it can do better than me!

Was only trying with advise on how to readily restore your Ender to its original non BL state, seems your anger is getting the better of you, think we need to report you to the moderator, now whos that ?   

[MarkF]

I know you said you didn't want to compile Marlin for your Ender 3 V2.  But it might be the best choice to get what you want and also upgrade to the latest version of Marlin.

You can get the latest Marlin software here:
   https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/
I would download the 'Current Marlin Release 2.1.1' at the time of this post.  Download both the 2.1.1.zip and View/Download Configuration.

Here is a video showing step-by-step how to install VS Code and how to build Marlin.  (Note. He suggests BugFix version but I would stay with the Release version.)

The main process is to download Marlin and then copy the configuration files for your printer from the Configuration download zip file into the Marlin folder.  There you will find two files that you will comment/uncomment the features you want.  In your case comment out the BL Touch support (I believe it's in configuration.h).  Compile and download to your printer.

[Simon]

The creality site has a marlin bin file, presumably this is compiled already. They don't explain, just call some marlin and some differently with BL touch support.

[MarkF]

"They don't explain..."
  - Exactly!  You don't know what options were enabled or which version of Marlin it is built from.

Do yourself a favor and download the latest Marlin and the example configuration files for your Ender 3 V2.
There are MANY options you can enable.  Just unzip the files and browse the 'configuration.h and configuration_adv.h' files.  Then you can decide how you want to proceed.

[Monkeh]

Having to configure and compile Marlin might just send Simon over the edge. I'll be watching the news.

[Microcheap]

There's no need to mess with the printer's firmware.

As I tried to explain earlier, you can simply configure your slicer to not include in the g-code the command to turn on bed leveling (it will be either a M420 or G29 command).

[Monkeh]

There's no need to mess with the printer's firmware.

As I tried to explain earlier, you can simply configure your slicer to not include in the g-code the command to turn on bed leveling (it will be either a M420 or G29 command).

That depends on whether the firmware is configured to home with an endstop or the probe..

[Simon]

I was looking to update anyway, but there are so many options as there are two motherboard versions and several options of those.

[Simon]

Oh well, that was so easy, one bricked printer!

[MarkF]

You need to insure which board is in your Ender 3.
The configuration file has three different boards (Attached are the files I think you need to choose from)

You MUST copy the correct configuration files for your printer and overwrite the existing files in the Marlin sources.

I would build Marlin without any changes to insure it works and then make the changes you want.



Edit-  This may also help: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-v2-firmware-update/

[MarkF]

Here is a more detailed video for updating Marlin on the Ender 3 V2 (including config modifications):

[Simon]

You need to insure which board is in your Ender 3.
The configuration file has three different boards (Attached are the files I think you need to choose from)

You MUST copy the correct configuration files for your printer and overwrite the existing files in the Marlin sources.

I would build Marlin without any changes to insure it works and then make the changes you want.



Edit-  This may also help: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-v2-firmware-update/

I'm confused, why does no one acknowledge that creality provide firmware for each machine, why is it like the only way is to compile the whole thing from scratch?

[MarkF]

You need to insure which board is in your Ender 3.
The configuration file has three different boards (Attached are the files I think you need to choose from)

You MUST copy the correct configuration files for your printer and overwrite the existing files in the Marlin sources.

I would build Marlin without any changes to insure it works and then make the changes you want.



Edit-  This may also help: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-v2-firmware-update/

I'm confused, why does no one acknowledge that creality provide firmware for each machine, why is it like the only way is to compile the whole thing from scratch?

Marlin Firmware is open source firmware for many 3D printer manufactures.
The Creality provided Marlin firmware is many versions old.
If you want the latest version or you want to enable custom options, you need to compile it for your printer.

You did say you wanted to update your version of Marlin???
If you're happy with the Marlin version used by Creality, then use one of Creality's binaries.