Resize a STL File For Me

[MarkF]

There is only one file to download and install (direct link to Github 32-bit Windows installer):
   FreeCAD.0.16.6706.f86a4e4-WIN-x86-installer.exe

The other files are for different operating systems, 64-bit Windows, or additional files required for compiling FreeCAD from the source code.  Sure, it uses Python, Qt and Visual Studio dll's under the hood.  But that's not your concern.  I see the 'over achiever' in you extends beyond just hardware.

As you say, there are two .exe files available.  One is for 32-bit Windows installs and the other is for 64-bit Windows installs.  You can't install both.  I see why you got the errors.  It's trying to use 64-bit libraries.  Un-install FreeCAD from the XP control panel and just install the 32-bit exe linked above.

[bostonman]

I see the 'over achiever' in you extends beyond just hardware.

That was funny. Sometimes I'm my own worst enemy.

[bostonman]

I'll need to dig into this more over the weekend, but still no luck.

Edit: I selected <view> <draft> and managed to get a window.

Not sure how this program works, but all, or most, in the "view" drop down menu gives the DLL error (that's the error I was referring to before).

[themadhippy]

Not sure how this program works

Best of luck,i spent sevral weeks trying to get to grips with it,watched countless tutorials,banged my head of the wall,watched more tutorials before deciding brain salad surgery would be simpler.

[MarkF]

I'll need to dig into this more over the weekend, but still no luck.

Edit: I selected <view> <draft> and managed to get a window.

Not sure how this program works, but all, or most, in the "view" drop down menu gives the DLL error (that's the error I was referring to before).

I assume this means you were able to install FreeCAD successfully and are having trouble knowing what to do next?   

I linked to two Youtube channels a while back that have about 50 vidoes on how to use newer versions.  They probably won't get you over the first hump.  So here are some startup screen captures on setup and getting to a useful start place.
(Note.  The 'Draft' workbench is the last place you want to start.  Start on either the 'Part' or "Part Design' workbenches.)

• This is the initial start page after install.
  Goto the Edit->Preferences tab to make viewing your model easier.
  
  
  
• On the 'General'->'General' tab set the Startup to 'Part Design'.  In most cases, the 'Part Design' is going to be the workbench you use most for complex models.
  
  
  
• On the 'Display'->'3D View' tab change the Navigation to 'Touchpad' (even if you don't have a touchpad!!!)
  Panning and rotating the model by pressing either the Shift key or Alt key and moving the mouse WITHOUT pressing any mouse buttons.  Zoom is with the mouse wheel and can be reversed with the 'Invert zoom' on this same tab.
  
  
  
• The next two are optional.
  On the 'General'->'Units' you can select millimeters or Imperial.  I do Imperial because my calibers has an analog dial that is in inches.
  
  
  On the 'Display'->'Sketcher' turn off the 'Show grid'.
  
  
  
• After restarting FreeCAD you will see the 'Part Design' workbench'.  You can change workbenches from the dropdown box at the top.  On this 'Part Design' workbench you will draw a shape on a plane from which you can pad or cut using that shape to make a solid or cut a hole. 
  
  On the left will be two tabs 'Model' and 'Tasks'.  The 'Model' tab will contain a tree view of the shapes you have created.  The 'Tasks' tab you will use while drawing a sketch.  At this point, you first need to create a new empty document, create a sketch and then select which plane you want to draw on.  (Some of the videos will help with the actual drawing.)
  
  
  
• If you open the knob file for FreeCAD version 0.16,  it should look like this. 
  Clicking on an item in the tree 'Labels & Attribures' will allow you to turn that item on/off with the Spacebar, it will also allow you to change its properties in the bottom half,  double clicking will open the item to change it's shape and dimensions, you can also add new sketches to effect the model by clicking the 'Create Skectch' button on the upper left (box with red circle and square in it).
  

[MarkF]

Not sure how this program works, but all, or most, in the "view" drop down menu gives the DLL error (that's the error I was referring to before).

Are referring to errors appearing in FreeCAD Report View window?

If so, you are going to get a lot of warnings and errors.  I pretty much ignore them unless FreeCAD refuses to do something.  FreeCAD is NOT a polished CAD program.  Even on version 0.19 that I started with, there were things that just didn't work.  FreeCAD is an open-source work in progress.  The newest version has come a long way since then.  Even still, there is a lot of capability available to you even in the old versions.

If you want a polished program, go purchase Fusion 360 or Solidworks.

All that being said, here is a video (using version 0.18 though) which will help you create sketches.

[bostonman]

I'll tinker with it more this weekend. Yesterday was a busy day, and I only had a few minutes to try uninstalling/installing before calling it a night.

In any case, the DLL error appears at the bottom when the program loads. Initially it was a larger window that I closed and it never seemed to reappear as the same size (even after uninstalling/installing).

The same DLL errors are a pop up window that appear whenever I select something from a drop down menu. Unfortunately the 'Start Center' is not what I see at all. My screen is empty with only file, edit, view, and help, drop down menus (and the DLL error on the bottom for a short time at startup).

The 'file' drop down menu only has 'exit' as an option. The 'edit' drop down menu only has 'preferences' as an option, The 'view' drop down menu has 'workbench' with sub options. Most of the sub menu options I've selected show the error: DLL load failed; %1 is not a valid Win32 application.

I believe selecting part and/or part design results in the pop up error window too, but I can't verify at the moment.

This PC has had many things installed over the years with some uninstalls. I have so many programs on it that I've had to combine stuff into groups as the 'start menu' went off the screen. My guess is I have a conflict, so I wouldn't devote too much time helping me since it's an XP system, and who knows what has happened to my PC over the years.

I appreciate the help, but I feel guilty since even I consider running XP silly. At some point over the weekend I'll tinker more, but I'll also try installing on a junk XP laptop I have.

Soon I need to look at what I have for software and make decisions on what I can live without (due to cost) so I can upgrade to a real computer without depending on my work one. Trying to upgrade to newer versions of software isn't..... hmmmm....... as easy let's just say to obtain as in the past. In the past I liked having a piece of software that was universal to stuff used in industry such as Solidworks, or maybe Altium, Xlinx, etc...

Obviously I can use free versions, hobby versions, limited versions, alternate software, alternate open source free software, etc... but knowing I'm designing something in a program that is a skill I can use in my profession is why I like name brand software; but it comes at a cost such as Altium being what.... $15k ?

For the record, about four-years-ago I began piecing together a system on pcpartpicker.com, and found myself overwhelmed with wondering how much I'll spend on software. I blinked, a year went by, blinked again, and now I struggle to view a 3D knob.

[bostonman]

Just an update.

I installed FreeCAD on my XP laptop, and it was night and day. It opened to the start up screen in your post and has many, many menu items now.

Not sure what is wrong with my PC as I've done an uninstall, a registry clean, etc... and FreeCAD gives me the same results.

In any case, I'm not looking for answers as this is XP we are talking about and obviously some software conflict, but wanted to post an update.

[MarkF]

A silly thought..
I doubt it will make a difference but you could uninstall FreeCAD, then install the 64-bit FreeCAD, then uninstall 60-bit FreeCAD, then install 32-bit FreeCAD.  Then try opening FreeCAD again.

My thinking here is that since you installed both versions the 64-bit installer left something behind that the 32-bit installer isn't writing over.  Reaching for straws I know.  But, it might be a quick fix.

On another note.
I have some Bourns PEC11R encoders with 6mm metal D-shafts.
Their actual measures diameter seems overly large.  Hence, our knobs not fitting.
  - diameter = 5.97mm
  - flat distance = 4.47mm

I printed a knob that went on but was tight.  Maybe try a diameter = 6.35mm and a flat distance = 4.90mm

[bostonman]

I doubt it will make a difference but you could uninstall FreeCAD, then install the 64-bit FreeCAD, then uninstall 60-bit FreeCAD, then install 32-bit FreeCAD.  Then try opening FreeCAD again.

You may be a genius, or it was a combination of what I did differently along with your advice. I installed the 64-bit version (still not sure why XP allows me to install it), uninstalled it, installed FreeCAD.0.16.6706.f86a4e4-WIN-x86-installer.exe, but this time I selected 'uninstall' (instead of 'repair') Microsoft Visual C++ Distribution Package when prompted.

Now it's finally showing the start center when I load it - much better and different than what was originally displayed.

I have some Bourns PEC11R encoders with 6mm metal D-shafts.
Their actual measures diameter seems overly large.  Hence, our knobs not fitting.

So you're saying my 3D printer is perfect and your design was off? (that was sarcasm).

For reasons not worth getting into, tonight I removed the Y-axis belt  (forward and backwards) bracket and discovered what once was a very little friction moving bed is now much harder to move.

From my experience, the two thin aluminum plates that mount the bearings and mount the bed are flimsy and bend easy. Most likely these bent over time from pulling off prints and causing stress on the bearings.

I'll print the knobs with my printer in the configuration it's in (i.e. needing calibration and adjustments) because I know what I'm getting at least. The knobs I've printed so far look great, so I'd rather not spend days over the course of weeks with the printer and not finishing the power supply repair.

[MarkF]

If you're talking about the calibration, that should take less than a hour.
You just take the measurements, do a calculation, change and store values via control panel and re-test.

You can just make the measurement and not make any changes to see how far off it is. 
Just measure the distance moved for each axis.

Edit:
  I should also point out that the save and store are two different things.
You can make the changes to try out.  But if you don't store them, the changes will be forgotten when the next time you power up the printer.

[Ian.M]

For reasons not worth getting into, tonight I removed the Y-axis belt  (forward and backwards) bracket and discovered what once was a very little friction moving bed is now much harder to move.

From my experience, the two thin aluminum plates that mount the bearings and mount the bed are flimsy and bend easy. Most likely these bent over time from pulling off prints and causing stress on the bearings.

I'll print the knobs with my printer in the configuration it's in (i.e. needing calibration and adjustments) because I know what I'm getting at least. The knobs I've printed so far look great, so I'd rather not spend days over the course of weeks with the printer and not finishing the power supply repair.

Probably a good choice to deal with the PSU first, as sorting the printer out is likely to be a big job.  However a stiff Y axis *WILL* cause problems with accuracy long before it gets bad enough to cause a layer shift so don't put it off too long.

Getting the bed bearings of a laser cut frame Prusa I3 style printer to run smoothly and normal to the Z axis is a PITA as four bearing beds with rigidly attached bearings are over-constrained.   The bed rails have to be level and exactly parallel to avoid the bed binding or twisting about the Y axis with Y movement.  However the front of the frame is only minimally constrained by the allthread that connects it to the main frame and back plate, and as the front plate generally has to be removed to remove the bed rails, you loose alignment whenever you need to take the whole bed off. 

Your fastening the frame down to a wooden surface may not be doing you any favours here as wood tends to expand and contract seasonally with changing humidity and warp if the surface finish or exposure to air circulation differs between the top and bottom surfaces + the coefficients of expansion of the acrylic frame parts, steel allthread and wooden surface will differ so unless you mounted it with a single fixed point at the center of the back plate, and all other points mounted with lateral compliance (e.g. oversize vertical holes and spring washers over flat washers), the bed rails will not stay levelled with respect to the Z axis and may not even stay parallel and in plane.

Assuming the bearings are still good,  their mounts need to be tightened in-situ with the bed on the levelled rails, otherwise it will invariably bind due to misalignment between the bearings.

There's also dirt and gumming to consider.  Linear ball bearings are highly sensitive to contamination of their raceways, far more so than rotating bearings,  so flushing with a compatible cleaning solvent and relubricating them with light machine oil would be advisable, and if they still don't individually run smooth replace them.  OTOH if you have low friction solid bearings, oil or grease + dust form a grinding paste that embeds in their surfaces and destroys them and the rails.  Cleaning + PTFE drylube may help, but if there is visible wear you'll probably have to replace them and maybe also the rails.

[bostonman]

Probably a good choice to deal with the PSU first, as sorting the printer out is likely to be a big job.  However a stiff Y axis *WILL* cause problems with accuracy long before it gets bad enough to cause a layer shift so don't put it off too long.

This is somewhat my thinking. I just have many projects at the moment, and part of the time I devote to moving unfinished projects out of the way to make room for another project that takes priority.

You're correct, the wood could be causing things to bow/expand/contract. Something I had considered, but weighted the options of a frame that twists when picked up or mounting and hoping for the best. I keep plastic over the top, however, dust could certainly have built up in the bearings too.

The bearings are all metal replacements, but, as you pointed out, the linear bearings are more sensitive. The major upgrades to my printer were (not including upgrading Marlin): replacing the bearings, four 3D printed brackets to hold down the threaded rod (two on each side, one in the front, one in the back), the 3D printed bracket to support the rear acrylic, 3D printed bracket to support the front acrylic, 3D printed frame to make the top acrylic (where the display is) more stable. Also, it's mounted to the straightest piece of wood I could find between HD and Lowe's - but this isn't saying much.

The BL Touch is the only other upgrade I felt was useful (bought it, but haven't installed it), anything more, and felt my money would be better spent on a high quality, less needy, printer.

If plans go correctly, this weekend I should knock off a few major projects which will allow me to free time for the printer. Seeing how stiff the Y-axis slid was quite disappointing to say the least as I devoted extensive time when I replaced the bearings to making sure friction was low.

[bostonman]

Last night the rotary encoder samples arrived. Hopefully I'll have free time to install them, however, doubt I'll have the unit together since I still need to retro fit some binding posts onto the front panel.

Ideally, I probably won't get far enough to reassemble until sometime next week or the following weekend, but I'll post an update.

[bostonman]

I printed a knob that went on but was tight.  Maybe try a diameter = 6.35mm and a flat distance = 4.90mm

The encoders are installed, but this power supply is built with every consideration to save a penny. Disassemble once and you're lucky if the screw holes have enough thread life to catch the ridiculously short tiny screws. Two plastic standoffs broke when I disassembled it, the PCB the encoders mount to are (for some reason) causing one to sit at a slight angle (nothing I need to worry about). I think it's due to the new encoder having a slightly larger base.

A quick test showed the new encoders work. I'm still trying to solve the issue with the three broken banana posts before I fully reassemble.

I'm still familiarizing myself with FreeCAD. Currently I know enough to be dangerous, but one wrong click, and seems I can mess up the entire practice part.

Rather than risk messing up your design, can you resize and post it?

[MarkF]

All you do is double click on the sketch, change the dimensions and export a STL file.
Don't save the file and just reopen it if you mess it up.
That old version will be a bit buggy.

Here's is a 6.4mm hole with a 4.9mm flat

[bostonman]

Thanks.

I'll try printing it in a few days.

A bit buggy or maybe it's just my inexperience using 3D software. At one point I did something to a practice design that suddenly made the solid portion (after I used Pad to make it three dimensional) that showed ghostly triangles on the face. After trying to export it to a STL, it would tell me I need to select what to export (I don't have the exact error message at the moment).

So yes, I'm still using training wheels at the moment.

[MarkF]

When it comes to exporting to a STL, you need to select what to export from the tree (i.e Model tab on the left).

You don't necessarily have to print everything.  You could export the knob without the hole.
In newer versions you can have more than one body.  For instance, a box with one body as the lid and a second body as the bottom.  By selecting one body at a time you can export two STL files (one a lid and one the bottom).


As I remember on the older versions you couldn't mix the 'Part Design' workbench with the others.  You could start with the 'Part Design' and go to another (i.e. 'Draft' workbench to add lettering) but you couldn't come back to the 'Part Design' to add more.  Most of this has changed now in the newer versions.  There are still some limitations that you need to work around even in the latest version.

[bostonman]

For instance, a box with one body as the lid and a second body as the bottom.

Ahhh this makes sense. So basically you don't need to design a box, and a separate design for a lid, it can be all one, but as separate STL files so it prints two separate pieces.

It didn't appear the manual went into detail about exporting to STL, and I haven't had a chance to watch more videos. I tried a CTRL-A to select everything in a tree, and THINK that had worked, but I was under the assumption the design had to be compiled or something rather than using such a method.

[MarkF]

No.  There is no compiling.

In the box example, being able to see that two bodies fit together is a benefit.  Not sure if it's possible in version 0.16.  A work around is two CAD files where you can export the first as a STEP file (good for make parts for use in a PCB design program).  You can then import the STEP file into the second CAD file to compare.



Here each component was a STEP file inserted into the box bottom for layout and sizing.

[bostonman]

Hopefully I do more mechanical 3D stuff. It is fun to see an idea come to life, be able to spin it in the software, and then print it.

Since I don't have experience with software like Solidworks (except the viewer) and whichever other ones are used in companies, I have a general question: are other pieces of software similar in how they function meaning they use constraints and similar methods?

Some of my 2D experience using AutoCAD is that line lengths and such can be manually entered rather than drawing a line and then needing to enter a constraint length.

I'm just curious how closely FreeCAD models high end software.

[MarkF]

I can't help you there.  I don't have any experience with other 3D CAD software.
Like you, I used 2D AutoCAD back in the day.  And even that was doing circuit design.
I have a E.E. degree with 35 years of software development in modelling and simulation.
I retired 8 years ago due to health problems and now spend my time on my HO model railroad.
You can follow along here:  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/model-trains/msg4729595/#msg4729595

All my FreeCAD designs have been mechanical items for my workbench, railroad or household repairs.



Oh.  In FreeCAD you can create a datasheet with your dimensions so you can resize things without going back through all your sketches to change sizes at multiple places.  You enter the variable name from the spreadsheet instead of a numerical value.  I did a lot of compontents for doing PCB designs.  See https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/tired-of-searching-for-basic-3d-cad-models/

[bostonman]

Wow, you have some nice diversity.

Most of my 2D drawings are done in AutoCAD 2009, but I find it annoying. I took a CAD course as part of my curriculum, it may have been AutoCAD, but don't remember. In any case, I learned enough to do drawings, and, when I began using it again a few years ago, asked some co-workers at a previous job who used AutoCAD about a few areas I was (and remain) confused in. I know enough about AutoCAD to create basic drawings, however, I probably take the long way to create stuff which makes tweaking drawings a pain.

The last few years I've had a habit of creating 2D drawings in AutoCAD for many projects just for reference. This past summer I had an irrigation installed and used the 2D aerial view of my property I created a few years prior to map all the sprinkler head locations.

I went around my property measuring distances of the sprinkler heads, entered them into my drawing, color coordinated them by zone, did an approximate underground pipe routing drawing, etc...

[MarkF]

Ya, getting accurate measurements is sometimes the hardest part of the job.

The CAD training I had in school involved paper and pencil.   
I still have all my drafting triangles, mechanical pencils, T-square, etc.  Collecting dust.

The version of AutoCAD I used run on DOS (prior to Windows).   

I bought a copy of TurboCAD years ago, but never got the hang of it.

[bostonman]

Earlier I printed the knobs at 0.12 layer height and began reassembling the power supply. The knobs look fantastic and add a bit of style since they give it (green) color.

The most recent STL you provided had them fit a bit loose. It was actually perfect because I didn't risk applying pressure to the new encoders trying to force them on (even the originals require a good amoutn of force to slide on).

Due to the cheap (and extremely tiny) plastic standoffs breaking off that hold down the PCB, I used some epoxy to hold down a few areas of the PCB, so I put a dab on the encoder shafts since I had some fresh mixed stuff.

In the future, if this power supply needs to be disassembled, the front panel will not go back together again. The screws are tiny and the standoffs break/strip, so the need to remove the knobs will probably never happen; unless I'm willing to clue all the PCBs back onto the plastic case.

Due to the many revisions of the CAD file you provided, I'm a bit confused on which one is the "final" version. I'd like to keep it so I can tweak it for other D shaft knobs I may need (actually just bought a used Lacroy scope today which is missing a knob, so I may need to print one for that too).

Which revision CAD file should I download and keep that can be easily edited?

Most likely I'll move onto tightening the belts and calibrating my 3D printer since I don't have an immediate need for it. Yesterday I printed a 30x30x10 square I made in FreeCAD to check the calibration. Ironically it was almost perfect in two of the three sizes (I forgot which one was the X and Y, so I don't know which one is off, however, I'll be calibrating all axis).