| Electronics > Beginners |
| 3D Printer Fire protection |
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| bd139:
--- Quote from: paulca on September 30, 2019, 01:45:26 pm --- --- Quote from: bd139 on September 30, 2019, 01:17:32 pm ---Mine is arriving tomorrow and I worry about this. I am going to not leave it unattended. I can squeeze some prints in during the day fine and long ones can wait until the weekend --- End quote --- What did you get, out of interest? Some are worse than others. Apparently, based on a tear down I didn't do too bad with a Creality CR-10s. It's got a Mean Well 12V 30A PSU still in it's own case, inside the main control box. It has proper gauge wires with ring terminal connections. It also has the heated bed mosfet off loaded from the main board onto a heatsink mounted to the side of the case. However, even without leaving it unattended it is recommended to have a dry powder or CO2 extinguisher on hand. That said I have yet to find a CR10 that has gone on fire. A8Net's or whatever they are called seem to be the worst with quite a few fires and near fires reported. --- End quote --- I bought a Creality Ender 3. It has metal frame and very few plastic parts like the CR-10. I suspect it shares many similarities. I will be running it on the fire place. I have a powder fire extinguisher as well that lives in the hall. The main thing that worries me isn't the thermal overrun but the wun hung lo power supply. Hopefully it turns up with a decent one :). Also I intend to make sure that the lapping flames don't end up setting fire to the reel of PLA on top of the unit which is where I reckon most of the serious fires come from. Apparently since end of 2018, all Ender 3's ship with hotbed and extruder thermal runaway protection enabled as well. I will test this though. A8's are nasty. The whole frame is flammable! I've got a smoke alarm in the room so plan is: 1. Visual or audible warning of fire. 2. Isolate it immediately (pull the plug out of the wall) 3. Evaluate. If it's small, grab the fire blanket from the kitchen, remove PLA spool first if possible. If it's large, powder it. Edit: anyway I thought I'd mention that it's probably ranks up there with the other silent killers: the fridge and the dryer: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grenfell_Tower_fire (started with a fridge). Also to note, a shop I used to go to as a kid burned down because the proprietor decided to nip down to the pub at lunch, got pissed and just went home for the afternoon leaving his old fire stick soldering iron running. Woosh! |
| paulca:
The Ender 3 and the CR-10 are nearly identical. I think the CR-10 has a few upgrades to reflect the higher price. It seems the Creality printers just buy off the shelf Mean Well supplies, which aren't too bad, as I understand. You can print yourself a cable reel stand and filament guide and put it off to the side instead of on top. --- Quote ---Apparently since end of 2018, all Ender 3's ship with hotbed and extruder thermal runaway protection enabled as well. I will test this though. --- End quote --- Good to hear, but I might flash the latest "Marlin" anyway. :) Not sure how much you have researched yet, but the major pain the rear end with these printers is getting the print to stick and stay stuck. I'd do quite a bit of pre-research on "Bed Levelling" and "Bed adhesion" and consider buying some cheap options like: Glue stick - I found Prit Stick did NOT work. It hardens into a solid with the heat and is an absoltely nightmare to remove, not alchohol soluable either. Blue painter tape (the printer came with yellow stuff which does work) Hairspray - makes the surface nice and tacky but can make a mess with overspray (at least it's alcohol soluable) Apparently people swear by PEI sheets but they are expensive. £10 for a 300x300 sheet. I would highly recommend following "Makers Muse" tutorials on "First Layer" settings. The first layer is critical. It's really disappointing to get 1 hour into a print and have it come unstuck.... 4 times in a row! Ask me how I know. :( |
| paulca:
--- Quote from: bd139 on September 30, 2019, 02:03:01 pm --- the other silent killers: the fridge and the dryer: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grenfell_Tower_fire (started with a fridge) --- End quote --- I thought it was the tumble dryer. Anyway I have one of those hot point dryers. It has been modified by the service technician but some engineers have said the modification is not enough and fluff can still build up on the element and eventually cause fire. The modification was apparently to install a plastic screen to try and stop the fluff reaching the element. It's in the garage which is detached at least. |
| bd139:
Threw mine in the trash instantly and bought a Bosch one :-DD Thanks for the advice with getting into it. Much appreciated. Writing up some extensive notes so have added to that. So much to learn :scared:. I live with a hair dresser so I have a fine collection of hair sprays to steal :-DD Meanwell supplies are excellent usually. I have used a few in other projects with no problems and the engineering is top notch. |
| paulca:
On the topic of dodgy electronics, I discovered if I move the extruder head across the arm while the printer is powered off that the power generated from the stepper motor powers the display back light. :-DD |
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