| Electronics > Beginners |
| Absolute Beginner. Motherboard Repair. Too much to handle? |
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| fng:
--- Quote from: james_s on June 21, 2019, 12:23:30 am ---If you were already an experienced electronics hobbyist and proficient at soldering I'd say give it a go. If you are starting from zero though I recommend sending it to someone experienced in reworking complex modern PCBs. --- End quote --- Thanks, although I am definitely interested in PCB repair, I will work on finding a different project to start on. --- Quote from: magic on June 21, 2019, 05:27:27 am ---... I second 0xdeadbeef wrt the leftmost/rightmost part. They are likely power supply capacitors and not very critical in value. But the ones in the middle are complete mystery. --- End quote --- Thank you for the honest reply. I'll look into finding more information and/or pictures regarding the motherboard --- Quote from: perieanuo on June 21, 2019, 07:30:15 am ---My advice is to ask someone with that mobo to take e highres picture or maybe measure the non-capacitive components. For the capacitors, you have posts that already show you the way. Or find the schematic for resistors or inductor values. Replacing is not hard, put smd or th components, smd recommended if you solder within 5 secs :) --- End quote --- Thanks for the response @perieanuo! I have asked gigabyte for the schematics for the board (not holding my breath) and am looking to find some high res versions of the mobo soon. --- Quote from: magic on June 21, 2019, 07:35:35 am ---To be honest, I would leave soldering to somebody who has done it before or at least practice it first on some junk PCB. So far the damage is rather benign (and it's possible the board could even work as-is with minor functionality loss), no need to make it worse by putting solder blobs on nearby components or lifting tracks by accident :P Particularly de-soldering SMD passives in the event that something goes wrong can be risky without experience. --- End quote --- I appreciate the honest feedback, I will find a different project to start soldering on. --- Quote from: Electro Detective on June 21, 2019, 09:48:38 am ---Gamer repairers are a better group to deal with afaik, and up for some alternative action. A schematic and parts list for that mobo may get it fixed fast/er Email Gigabyte and ask nicely, you may get lucky, but don't hold your breath.. :horse: --- End quote --- Interesting, I will contact local video game repairers and see if they can tolerate the threat level of this mobo haha! I contactact gigabyte and will see about the schematics. Thanks for the info! --- Quote from: larsdenmark on June 21, 2019, 11:03:56 am ---This will be a difficult fix. In order to see how missing components are soldered see Louis Rossmann's YouTube channel. Note he is repairing Mac motherboard and (probably) can't help you. Here is a link to one of his videos: <removed url for scrolling ease> --- End quote --- Thanks for the video! I will watch in awe at my lack of skills and equipment. I might look to find a parts board as well. --- Quote from: plurn on June 21, 2019, 12:38:52 pm ---Not sure but your first image seems to be of the bottom side of the board, at the bottom edge of the board near the cpu0 (lower cpu on the board) and near its ram slots DDR3_P0_D1. Correct me if I am wrong. So if I am right, the equivalent area for the other cpu would be bottom side of the board near the ram slots where COM1 serial port is. So inspect that area to see if you can find a similar pattern of components to your damaged area. Then if you have the tools* (or you take it to a repairer who does) you could measure the components and then purchase replacements. Due to the high risk of not being able to fix something like this, I would not want to spend any money on it other than the small cost of replacement components, and perhaps some tools that I am likely to reuse (eg soldering tools, LCR meter). Spending $100 on a damaged board on ebay sounds like a waste of money. Good luck. --- End quote --- You are correct about the location of the damage (CPU0 near DDR3_P0_D1). I'll investigate the area you mentioned and purchase a cheap LCR. I'm looking at the following https://amzn.to/2ZxjQG6 but will watch the youtube videos you recommended and might be able to save even more on the backend. Thank you so much for your information and help. I'll update you as I find out more. --- Quote from: bitwelder on June 21, 2019, 02:38:39 pm ---One option regarding places where to repair the board (for cheap) could be a friendly hackerspace, if you happen to have one sufficiently near. At a quick google search there seem to be several of them in the Hawaii. An added benefit is that the local resident hobbyists/experts can help you in diagnosing the fault, using the necessary equipment, and perhaps they can also provide some replacement parts, if they are not too uncommon. --- End quote --- I didn't even know such places exist! I am now looking to joining one of these... amazing. |
| fng:
An update to this thread. I've found a new/working motherboard that recently went up for a decent price online that I've purchased. When it arrives I will take pictures of the affected area and update you all with LCR readings of the components of interest. Maybe we'll get to close this book at some point soon. Thanks again everyone who has helped with this. |
| Electro Detective:
--- Quote from: fng on June 21, 2019, 08:44:29 pm --- When it arrives I will take pictures of the affected area and update you all with LCR readings of the components of interest.. Maybe we'll get to close this book at some point soon. --- End quote --- No-O-0... ! :scared: I would strongly suggest that being now 'out of the woods' :phew: don't do any LCR readings just yet, just in case mobo #2 is particular about being prodded :o and you may have TWO books to close :-[ 'mobo sad vs mobo replacement' comparison photos posted here first may give the members a clue of the missing parts, and tips on probing the boards 'safely', if required, and in case convenient in circuit LCR tests may not always tell the full story :-// |
| magic:
--- Quote from: fng on June 21, 2019, 08:40:02 pm ---Thanks for the video! I will watch in awe at my lack of skills and equipment. --- End quote --- You don't need most of it. I have soldered 0402 size SMD passives even with a bulky, mains powered unregulated iron with a fine tip mounted on it. Not saying that there is something wrong with thermal regulation or a smaller iron wouldn't be better ;) Short length makes it easier to manipulate the tip with precision. You need something to hold the component in place, I prefer a tiny flat screwdriver but some people use tweezers. Clean the pads of leftover solder (flux helps), put the component in place, hold it down, solder one end, solder the other end. If something goes wrong, put the iron to the side and heat both ends (add more solder if necessary), when it starts to move freely by itself and not before, wipe it off with the iron. Practice everything on a sacrificial PCB ;) Beware that those things are tiny and just love to fall on the floor. As for size of those elements, I guess the small ones are 0402 and the big capacitor was 0805. Find definitions and measure similar items on the board if in doubt. Other candidates are 0603 and 1206. --- Quote from: fng on June 21, 2019, 08:40:02 pm ---I'll investigate the area you mentioned and purchase a cheap LCR. --- End quote --- I usually don't have the luxury of buying a second PCB to measure every component so in my experience a more useful gear is a DMM with continuity test to trace the circuit and figure out how it works what should go where. You will probably need it soon if you want to do repairs. --- Quote from: Electro Detective on June 21, 2019, 10:29:21 pm ---No-O-0... ! :scared: I would strongly suggest that being now 'out of the woods' :phew: don't do any LCR readings just yet, just in case mobo #2 is particular about being prodded :o and you may have TWO books to close :-[ --- End quote --- There is actually a bigger problem: those capacitors would certainly need to be removed from the circuit to measure them, there is likely many more caps in parallel with them and a lot of other things so in-circuit measurement would be completely bogus. Resistors may need to be removed too. For starters, I always measure resistors in both directions when in circuit. Even if the results agree, they may still be incorrect sometimes. Also, if you desolder something from a working board, better don't lose it. And if you try to measure a 0402 component by squeezing it between two probes, it's very easy to send it flying far away. |
| Electro Detective:
--- Quote from: magic on June 22, 2019, 09:19:52 am --- --- Quote from: Electro Detective on June 21, 2019, 10:29:21 pm ---No-O-0... ! :scared: I would strongly suggest that being now 'out of the woods' :phew: don't do any LCR readings just yet, just in case mobo #2 is particular about being prodded :o and you may have TWO books to close :-[ --- End quote --- There is actually a bigger problem: those capacitors would certainly need to be removed from the circuit to measure them, there is likely many more caps in parallel with them and a lot of other things so in-circuit measurement would be completely bogus. Resistors may need to be removed too. For starters, I always measure resistors in both directions when in circuit. Even if the results agree, they may still be incorrect sometimes. Also, if you desolder something from a working board, better don't lose it. And if you try to measure a 0402 component by squeezing it between two probes, it's very easy to send it flying far away. --- End quote --- ..and let's not forget the heat thrashing/cap egg boiling those nano pitas will likely get, during the removal and re-solder 'simple' measurement snafu @new players: some things -important- may be best left to pros who do this stuff every day, familiar with such components wuth spares/equivalents in stock, and run their desoldering/soldering station at correct temperatures from 'experience' after learning the costly frustrating hard way a few times first |
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