Electronics > Beginners

Actuator repair attempt

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Gregg:
Those gray tabs are where the fine copper wires of the coil are soldered to the spring clamp terminal that the black insulated copper wires are crammed into.
You may be beyond repair if you broke the tab that goes to the inner winding of the coil.  If you broke the tab that is supposed to connect to the the outside winding of the coil, you may be able to unwrap one coil, clean off the varnish insulation and re-solder it.  The coil won't miss one wrap of wire.
After testing continuity, tell us what you observe.

qkcam:
Hi Gregg
sorry it took so long to get back here.  between health issues and stolen old paid off 2000 ford ranger, life has been interesting.   I was able to pick up another used washer that works, before my little truck was taken.  gratitude for that!  gosh ! i have had that truck since new.
anyway.
I got all the test results and they all look good, within the same range  EXCEPT 3 and 4 are OL link you mentioned since i had broken the tab off I was able to touch the lead to the tiny wire leading out of the coil and into the socket .. got no reading.

could this explain why the washer would agitated occasionally but not have enough power to do consistently unless i manual moved the breaker board?  wonder why it was inconsistent and not completely failed?   just curious.     
A new actuator cost almost $100.     wonder if i might be able to replace the coil? 
i really appreciate your help and again sorry it took so long to get the mission accomplished. 

Gregg:
The coil wire is insulated with thin insulation; your meter won’t show continuity unless you make contact with the very end of the broken wire or remove some insulation.
It looks from the picture that the coil wire to #4 is the outside wire of the coil.  IF that is the broken connection, you may be able to unwrap one turn of the coil, remove the insulation and solder it on the tab.
If the coil wire at #3 is broken but there is enough remaining there is a slight possibility that you could solder another wire to the part going to the coil.  You need to be careful not to break it again; probably glue the new solder joint to the yellow plastic before soldering the other end to the tab.
IF you are really good at repairs, patient and careful; there is a possibility of taking the steel solenoid housing off and free the coil.  This procedure is most likely not worth the effort.  The end plate appears to be crimped to the side plates and with a really sharp cold chisel, strong vise and good hammer work could be separated so that it could be re-crimped.  With the coil out, it is not too hard to unroll the wire and rewind it.  Unroll it on some type of spool so you don't kink it.  The tricky part is putting it together so that the plunger operates freely and the joints are strong, it may require a couple of tack welds.  It will still function without one or two windings.

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