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Actuator repair attempt

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qkcam:
Hi
very new to electronic things.  Trying to fix wash machine actuator.  I was getting a reading of 786 on the multimeter for resistance  Before I took it apart.   Now I am not getting anything on the multimeter.  I decided to take it apart becasue it was suggestd I needed to replace this part and  1.  not easy to find right now  2.  expensive. 3. fun to see how things work.  4.  noticed one of the connectors was corrded, thought that might help.   
Now I need help figuring out how to put it back together and get that 786 reading again.

here is the part number for the actuator 326042226

I really appreciate your time and expertise.

here's what happened and what I noticed.
1. the round copper component I(with yellow at the end) at one point came out I did touch the copper with my hands(although clean) i dont know if copper is sensitive ?

2. the wire ends came out of the copper thing -with yellow on ends(what is that? ) put them back in was trying to get the connectors out so I could get the wires a nice tight grip and reinsert. couldn't get the connectors out and didnt want to risk damage. maybe the connection is too loose in the causing a 0 reading on MM?

3. I have attached photos to see this one. the two pieces need to line up with the connections when i close the case. I highlighted in yellow. not sure if I am not getting these connections even and lined up and that is  causing the MM to read 0 ?

4 I noticed the wires have what seems like a slight "crimp" on one side. ( older i am getting worse eyes are getting- need a better magnifier i guess) I tried to get the wire back into place on the connection (line- not sure what it is called ) at one point I noticed a light bit of copper exposed on one side of the wire. not sure if that may be what is causing the MM to read 0 ?  I did try to wrap a very small piece of electrical tape around the wire.. didnt make any difference.

as you can tell I don't know much about these things. I did notice all the gears seem to work fine and no missing teeth. I have yet to open the other side of the actuator. figure I better get the first side put back together and get a reading if i can., before going and messing with the other side.

any ideas? any suggestions are gratefully welcome.   
thank you

james_s:
There's nothing in there that's going to be sensitive to touch, although you do have to be careful taking apart mechanical gadgets like that because it can be very difficult to get all the bits back in the correct orientation. Do you know anyone who is good with fiddly mechanical bits? You're going to need to understand what the parts are and how they work together to be able to fix it.

mikerj:
The wires are connected to the contacts using "insulation displacement"; the narrow notches in the contacts are supposed to cut through the insulation on the wire and bite into the copper forming a gas tight connection.  You will need to use a screwdriver or similar tool to force the wires all the way down into the notches.

I see corrosion on the contact shown in the top picture.  Pull the entire contact out of the plastic assembly and clean up the corroded end using e.g. wire wool or abrasive paper.

EEEnthusiast:
The change in resistance could be due to the limit switch (the two metal contacts) being not in touch with each other and that disconnects the solenoid from the outer cables. So you would see an open circuit on the multimeter. The 786 Ohms was possibly the resistance of the solenoid coil. Makes sense as it looks like a lot of length coiled in there. Just move the white colour lever in and out to see if that limit switch makes contact again. I would recommend to add some grease to the gears just in case they are stuck.
Also move that pin in and out from the core of the solenoid just to verify that it is not stuck in there. May be add some lubricant there as well. Check all the crimps for loose contact.

qkcam:

--- Quote from: EEEnthusiast on November 08, 2019, 02:09:15 am ---The change in resistance could be due to the limit switch (the two metal contacts) being not in touch with each other and that disconnects the solenoid from the outer cables. So you would see an open circuit on the multimeter. The 786 Ohms was possibly the resistance of the solenoid coil. Makes sense as it looks like a lot of length coiled in there. Just move the white colour lever in and out to see if that limit switch makes contact again. I would recommend to add some grease to the gears just in case they are stuck.
Also move that pin in and out from the core of the solenoid just to verify that it is not stuck in there. May be add some lubricant there as well. Check all the crimps for loose contact.

--- End quote ---
thanks.  the crimps sure are loose.. the wires came right out! I tried to pull the crimps out to reconnect the wires but couldnt get them out. was afraid to force the crimps. so i just tucked the wires in as deep as i could get them- not sure if that works?     the gears seemed to move ok but I will add some grease. great idea also to the solenoid pin,,which also came out and fell on the floor.

     I did try moving the white lever in and out and no change on the multimeter so still no connection. 

also noticed a small hole in one of the wires that exposes that copper.. I tried to put e tape around it but not sure that helped.
do i need to replace that wire?   and not sure what I will do about the insulation displacement if i do so. 

also a better picture of the yellow gear .    i had posted another reply but seemed to have lost it. 

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