Amphenol GT series connector - help with rewiring

[tohtorizorro]

Hi!

I was asked to make a cable between a mixing desk and its external PSU. The owner of the desk wants to locate the PSU +10m away due to fan noise and the current cable is only about 3m long. According to him the manufacturer would charge nearly 5k€ for a 15m replacement so I thought yeah, I might be able to do it just a smidge below that 

The cable has Amphenol GT series connectors. Probably due to their wide customizability, they are not kept in stock and have a factory lead time of 16 weeks. Changing the connector type isn’t really an option either since I doubt the owner would allow it and it would probably be a lot of work at the desk end. So, preferably I'd be able make do with the connectors on the original cable.

It took me a good while to figure out how to even screw the shell open and now I would really like some encouragement before I start to mess more with it.

Here are the instructions I found for soldered connectors: (page 51 on this PDF)

• Slide the rear accessories over the wire bundle in the proper sequence for re-assembly:
  cable clamp and/or endbell first, then ferrule and (if used) coupling nut.
• Insert individual wires through the proper holes in the grommet.
• Solder wires to appropriate contacts on the rear of the connector
• Fixture the connector for reassembly using the endbell assembly tools
• Slide the grommet down the wires
• Slide coupling nut, ferrule and endbell accessories over rear of the connector and tighten.

So, it sounds like the pins are fixed to the connector (as opposed to crimped ones which are inserted and extracted with a special tool) or are they meant to be replaced before soldering the new wires?

If they are fixed, can I just remove the old wires, clean the contacts and resolder new wires in a similar fashion as with XLR/Socapex connectors?

That would be great!


Here's the complete model number with explanations:

GTS065SL2-24-67P(025)

GT     Connector series designator S Contact style = solder (as opposed to crimp) 065 Shell style = Straight plug with long heavy duty coupling nut SL Connector class = Long adapter, jacketed cable liquid tight strain relief, environmental 2- ? ? 24-67 Shell size = 24, Pin arrangement = 19 x size 12 pins (5 rows: 3+4+5+4+3) P Contact style = pin (as opposed to socket) (025) Connector modification = Black zinc cobalt

[tooki]

You should definitely be able to desolder and reuse the connectors, if you do it with care. I would also consider making an extension and keeping the original cable intact. It may be easier to find the components and crimp your own than to find the solder connectors. (And crimping is way faster and easier to do, and more reliable. Even if you have to buy and charge them for the  crimp tool you could still charge less. )

Also, I’m not certain whether Amphenol does this, but several other circular connector manufacturers have “value added” resellers that, instead of stocking a huge number of connector configurations, stock the raw parts for the connectors and assemble them to order in a day or two, under license from the manufacturer. It might be worth seeing if Amphenol has this. Here’s an example of such a reseller: https://www.connecticc.com/cms/about/value-added-assembly/

[themadhippy]

The cable has Amphenol GT series connectors. Probably due to their wide customizability, they are not kept in stock and have a factory lead time of 16 weeks

diffrent make ,same standard
https://uk.farnell.com/c/connectors/circular-connectors-components/circular-mil-spec-equivalent-connectors?product-range=vg95234&no-of-contacts=19contacts

[tohtorizorro]

You should definitely be able to desolder and reuse the connectors, if you do it with care. I would also consider making an extension and keeping the original cable intact. It may be easier to find the components and crimp your own than to find the solder connectors. (And crimping is way faster and easier to do, and more reliable. Even if you have to buy and charge them for the  crimp tool you could still charge less. )

Also, I’m not certain whether Amphenol does this, but several other circular connector manufacturers have “value added” resellers that, instead of stocking a huge number of connector configurations, stock the raw parts for the connectors and assemble them to order in a day or two, under license from the manufacturer. It might be worth seeing if Amphenol has this. Here’s an example of such a reseller: https://www.connecticc.com/cms/about/value-added-assembly/

Thanks!

I hear you, the problem here is I really don't know crap about these connectors and I only have to do one cable. I have no idea what the crimping tool even looks like, where to get one, what sort of pins... Considering all that, just soldering 2 x 19 pins doesn't sound that bad. Although it does look a bit crowded, assuming the pins resemble those in XLR connectors I should at least have a pretty good idea how it's done.

I don't know if I'll ever be working with such connectors in again but in case I do, it's good to know about the value added system. Most of all, I needed to hear someone say the job is doable before agreeing to do it and tearing up the fancy cable. 

[tohtorizorro]

diffrent make ,same standard
https://uk.farnell.com/c/connectors/circular-connectors-components/circular-mil-spec-equivalent-connectors?product-range=vg95234&no-of-contacts=19contacts

So these are interchangeable (say, mixing ITT Cannon with Amphenol) if the insert arrangements match?

[themadhippy]

So these are interchangeable (say, mixing ITT Cannon with Amphenol) if the insert arrangements match?

yep. we used to use the threaded version  for audio multicores,the only difference between makes was  the colour.

[tohtorizorro]

Now there's only the ordering of the new cable... I can't access the original one right now and have tried to figure out the min/max dimensions from different catalogues / spec sheets but the rabbit hole's too deep... Is it possible to decipher them from the model number? I somehow forgot to include it in the original post but have added it there now.

The original cable outer diameter is around 12mm (1/2") and the wires (incl. coating) are about 2mm (0.08"), I think I read somewhere that size 12 pins would need 14AWG.

A local store has cable with 18x 1.5mm² (between 15 & 16 AWG) + shield but the outer dia. is ~18mm. I've yet to check if all the wires are really needed but using the shield for the 19th pin seems sketchy.

[tooki]

What’s printed on the original cable?

[themadhippy]

what desk is it? you may find the service manual for it online that maybe gives   you a clue to wots wot.As for 19 core cable try a theater suppliers as its used  for lighting  soccas.  For example https://www.10outof10.co.uk/acatalog/19-Core-1.5mm-PVC-Multicore-26405.html

[tohtorizorro]

What’s printed on the original cable?

Didn't even cross my mind to check the cable for markings I'll do it next time although at this point I might as well just take one lead out for measurements - no use ordering the cable anyways if it turns out I'm unable to solder it back I'll measure the strain relief for max cable diameter, doubt there's very much margin though.

what desk is it? you may find the service manual for it online that maybe gives   you a clue to wots wot.As for 19 core cable try a theater suppliers as its used  for lighting  soccas.

The console is API 1688-II They don't seem to have much service data available, I think you're supposed to book an authorized technician to perform maintenance on site when needed. The documents I found mentioned a multi-pin military grade connector at best and had nothing on the actual PSU. Whatever, everything should be in order if I find a cable that fits through the strain relief with wires at least as thick as on the original.

[tooki]

What’s printed on the original cable?

Didn't even cross my mind to check the cable for markings I'll do it next time although at this point I might as well just take one lead out for measurements - no use ordering the cable anyways if it turns out I'm unable to solder it back I'll measure the strain relief for max cable diameter, doubt there's very much margin though.

I highly recommend identifying and looking up what the original cable is, just to make sure it doesn’t have some non-obvious special characteristic that is actually needed. For example, if this cable runs through walls, it may need to meet certain fire requirements.

Also, does any data run through that cable?