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Avoiding solder blobs on 0603 when handsoldering.

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james_s:

--- Quote from: ataradov on October 18, 2019, 06:20:01 am ---
--- Quote from: james_s on October 18, 2019, 06:14:36 am ---Another technique I've used at times is just apply some flux and use only the solder that's on the tip of the iron, not feeding any additional solder into the joint.

--- End quote ---
Yes, I only do that. How do you even feed the solder and keep the part in place and solder at the same time? You would need 3 hands for that. A good soldering iron tip is key here. And what constitutes good is very individual.

--- End quote ---

Tin the pad, solder one end of the part, heat the other end and brush the solder against the tip to add just enough. I've used both techniques.

Jeroen3:
Buy and use flux.
Syringe flux.
Use lots of it.

If your joints are blobby or spikey, or you drag solder with the tip away, use more flux!
You can never use too much flux.
You easily clean flux in an ultrasonic cleaner. Especially water* soluble.
Place in an oven for 15 minutes to dry.

Perfectly clean nicely soldered board.

*use demineralized water

JDubU:
Here is what I do for the best (and easiest) way to solder 0603 sized smd parts (assuming that leaded solder is permitted for the project):

Use a chisel (not conical!) 700 degree (F) soldering iron tip that is closest to the same width as the terminal or lead of the part that you are soldering.  For 0603 passives, this would be 0.032".
I use a Kester #186 flux pen and the smallest diameter leaded solder.
Cover the PCB pads with flux using the flux pen.  Use lots of flux!  Do not put any flux on the leads of the parts yet.
Place and hold the part on the fluxed pads using fine, right angle tweezers.  The leads of the part will slightly stick to the flux, helping hold the part in position.
Wipe the soldering iron tip on a damp soldering sponge to clean as much old solder and oxidation off as possible.
Touch the soldering iron tip with the solder wire to make a very small drop of liquid solder on the very end of the tip.
Touch the pad/lead junction with the tip of the iron.  When it hits the flux, the solder drop on the tip will flow smoothly into a fillet between the lead and the pad.
Now that the part is locked down with the first joint (or first two joints, on a diagonal, for ICs), Use the flux pen to cover all leads with flux (including the ones that were just soldered but only had flux on the pad).
Solder the remaining lead(s) using the same technique.  Go back and reflow the initial joints now that there is added flux on their leads.
Do not use solder wire directly on the leads.  It is very hard to control the amount of solder that will melt and will cause blobs that would need to be removed with solder braid.
After all parts have been soldered, thoroughly clean off the flux with anhydrous IPA (I use MG Chemicals 99.9%).
Inspect all joints and reflow (flux/solder/clean) any joints that you aren't happy with.


Mechatrommer:
if you need perfectionism, you can suck excess blob with solder braid + flux. but as many suggested, small solder diameter is the better thing to begin with.

Kasper:
Thin solder helps but I usually use thick because it requires less feeding and has more flux in it.

I almost always use a big chisel tip.

I sometimes add flux but usually don't bother because its sticky, smelly and waste of time.

For small amount of solder in joints:
Hold solder to joint then press iron onto solder, and pull solder away a moment later. Goal is to pinch off a bit of solder and pull it away before too much melts.

Its like doing a burnout, stomp on the gas and then a moment later drop the clutch.  Gas being iron and clutch being solder.

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