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| CJay:
If there's no polarity marking on the board they may not be polarised but if you can post a pic of any writing on the caps we will be able to work it out. Oh, put the links back one at a time and check to kake sure the sort doesn't raeappear (I don't think it will), the reconnect the larger board and check again. Put the regulator back in and check, then I think you can probably power it up... |
| TimNJ:
You should find another point on the circuit which you know is connected to either end of the capacitor and test continuity between that point and either of the capacitor's pads on the PCB. You should be able to determine which pad is for + and which is for - based on that. For instance, the schematic tells you that pin 6 of the BBE 2153 chip is connected to V+ (the positive supply rail). Put one of your multimeter probes on pin 6, and the other on either pad of C38. If it beeps, then it's connected. Based on the fact that one tantalum already popped, I'd probably replace them with aluminum electrolytics. 100uF/16V is readily available in that size. |
| CJay:
--- Quote from: TimNJ on June 27, 2018, 07:56:37 pm ---You should find another point on the circuit which you know is connected to either end of the capacitor and test continuity between that point and either of the capacitor's pads on the PCB. You should be able to determine which pad is for + and which is for - based on that. For instance, the schematic tells you that pin 6 of the BBE 2153 chip is connected to V+ (the positive supply rail). Put one of your multimeter probes on pin 6, and the other on either pad of C38. If it beeps, then it's connected. Based on the fact that one tantalum already popped, I'd probably replace them with aluminum electrolytics. 100uF/16V is readily available in that size. --- End quote --- No tantalums popped, it was an electrolytic. I'm now not sure the yellow capacitors were tantalums either so let's not confuse matters. |
| don@cascadefellowship.org:
--- Quote from: CJay on June 27, 2018, 08:15:36 pm --- --- Quote from: TimNJ on June 27, 2018, 07:56:37 pm ---You should find another point on the circuit which you know is connected to either end of the capacitor and test continuity between that point and either of the capacitor's pads on the PCB. You should be able to determine which pad is for + and which is for - based on that. For instance, the schematic tells you that pin 6 of the BBE 2153 chip is connected to V+ (the positive supply rail). Put one of your multimeter probes on pin 6, and the other on either pad of C38. If it beeps, then it's connected. Based on the fact that one tantalum already popped, I'd probably replace them with aluminum electrolytics. 100uF/16V is readily available in that size. --- End quote --- No tantalums popped, it was an electrolytic. I'm now not sure the yellow capacitors were tantalums either so let's not confuse matters. --- End quote --- Here's a close up of C29, C32 and C46. The text is very hard to make out but it seems there's just a number. Disregard the sharpie mark on the left side. I was doing some research online and found a post that indicated that when looking at the number side, the negative might be on the left. So I marked then with a sharpie. |
| TimNJ:
Ah I'm sorry for the confusion. Misread a post above. Those are definitely just standard multi-layer ceramic capacitors (MLCCs). They're fine! 105 is just the capacitor code. 105 means 1uF. See here: https://synthrotek.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Capacitor-Codes.pdf |
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