| Electronics > Beginners |
| Best Budget Soldering Iron? |
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| ebclr:
You can't change a hot probe without burning yourself, I would opt with the long ones instead of this short one |
| Shock:
--- Quote from: ebclr on April 11, 2019, 11:24:47 am ---You can't change a hot probe without burning yourself, I would opt with the long ones instead of this short one --- End quote --- Most modern cartridge soldering stations are designed to have short tip working distances and can be swapped easily while 400C/752F. You use the provided heat resistant silicon pad or specific brands have an additional way of doing it. For instance Pace uses a tip tool, JBC uses their iron stand, Hakko uses the plastic tip sleeve. You can buy Chinese silicon tongs on Ebay for $1, no burns. |
| GreyWoolfe:
MP3, here is a question for you. Do you plan to do a lot of soldering or occasional soldering? If you plan to do a lot, it behooves you to save your pennies and buy a real and proper name brand unit with OEM tips. There will be no disappointment there. Don't be afraid to look at the used market, that is how I have my Metcal MX-500. If your use is occasional, the Bakon that Shock linked might be a good choice if you have a power supply on hand but I will still recommend OEM tips. They will simply outlast and out perform the $2 Chinese specials. My dearly departed father always said that you buy your tool right and only buy it once. Psi, I think you are being a bit hard on the 936/900m style. I had a real Hakko 936 for about 7 years before upgrading. It spent 2 years of its life replacing capacitors on Dell and ELO touch screen monitors for the company. Granted, you can't solder 2 4" pieces of copper PCB together but for basic soldering it was awesome. I had chisel tips from 3.2 mm down to .8 mm that let me solder 0603 passives and SOT23 components on SMD practice boards. The limiting factor is finding OEM in a configuration you want. There is a greater selection of T12 in OEM and clone. By the way, I sold it to a ham club member and she is quite happy with it |
| Psi:
--- Quote from: GreyWoolfe on April 11, 2019, 11:39:15 am ---Psi, I think you are being a bit hard on the 936/900m style. I had a real Hakko 936 for about 7 years before upgrading. It spent 2 years of its life replacing capacitors on Dell and ELO touch screen monitors for the company. Granted, you can't solder 2 4" pieces of copper PCB together but for basic soldering it was awesome. I had chisel tips from 3.2 mm down to .8 mm that let me solder 0603 passives and SOT23 components on SMD practice boards. The limiting factor is finding OEM in a configuration you want. There is a greater selection of T12 in OEM and clone. By the way, I sold it to a ham club member and she is quite happy with it --- End quote --- I spend 10+ years of my life using irons that run 900M tips and i did lots successful soldering with them too. It's not so much that 900m itself is shit, you can get the job done with it. So maybe i should rephrase. It's that 900M is shit once you have used a really good iron and then go back to it :) My thermaltronics TMT-9000 totally ruined me, i just can't use a 900M without going "hm.. why is this iron taking so long to solder this part? oh thats right, 900m tip" |
| GreyWoolfe:
--- Quote from: Psi on April 11, 2019, 11:47:13 am ---So maybe i should rephrase. It's that 900M is shit once you have used a really good iron and then go back to it :) My thermaltronics TMT-9000 totally ruined me, i just can't use a 900M without going "hm.. why is this iron taking so long to solder this part? oh thats right, 900m tip" --- End quote --- We can agree on that. There was a huge difference between the 936 and the FX-951 that I upgraded to. When I added the Metcal MX-500 for a ridiculous price, that just gilded the lily. ;D I couldn't go back either. |
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