Electronics > Beginners
Bit of a noob, needing project assistance.
rstofer:
I think I pointed out a more rational approach above. Try a Blinky, then try a Blinky on every pin, one at a time (Ian.M), prove that the Nano does something.
It certainly should not get warm to the touch.
starhawk:
The Nano that's getting hot is the one currently wired up. I'm prayin' it's not shot for two reasons, really -- the other being that I, er, superglued it to the keyboard case's underside...
The SD card module is identical to this one --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/172144420638
...except that I've wired it from underneath after cutting all the pins off the top because they were in the way.
The questionable Nano is soldered to a piece of perfboard on truncated pin headers. I don't think I can get it off... it should work tho, if I can get it to fit (height is a concern here). The questionable rating is due to potential static damage, it was on my drawin' desk for quite a while and I'm good at accumulating little bits of eraser rubber everyfreakingwhere.
Ian.M:
If its getting hot after uploading an empty sketch (just empty setup() and loop() functions), its bad for certain. The empty sketch will leave all pins as their defaults which is inputs, and if its still getting hot, the only way that can happen is if the '328P's internal pin driver circuit on one or more pins has failed.
Even if it isn't getting hot running an empty sketch, you still need to test each pin you are using to determine if any are internally shorted to Gnd or Vcc. You could use the ArduinoMonitor utility I linked to + its sketch to check them in situ with minimal disconnecting of stuff, just don't try to make an input in in your circuit an output using ArduinoMonitor, unless you have first disconnected it.
The SD interface you linked is using 10K resistors to limit the current into the SD card pins due to the Arduino's 5V logic '1' exceeding the SD cards's permissible input voltage, so there isn't much to go wrong. Its *fugly* but OK with most SD cards for hobby projects. If its regulator is producing 3.3V you can risk putting a card in it and seeing if it still produces 3.3V. However the odds are the regulator is blown.
starhawk:
Yeah, it looks like I have an ArduinHosed Nano :( Either the CH340 or the 328 itself is shot on that board. My money's actually on both... see, I use Linux, and in it, there's this terminal command to show USB devices -- lsusb, aka 'list USB'. (A lot of Linux has CLI underpinnings to it.) The Arduino isn't just not showing up in the IDE, it's not being picked up by lsusb... which basically means it's gone and gotten itself into a bucket of KFC Extra Crispy :-BROKE
Oh, and to further explain the "both" -- I'm reasonably certain that the last time I pressed the reset button on the board I could see the response via board blinky. Right now it's being ignored... which means the whole thing is one cooked goose... which makes me want to use a word, quite loudly, that you can't say on TV and which rhymes with the sound a chicken makes... ;)
rstofer:
OK, the board is fried as is every component on it. That is the likely outcome of overvoltage.
What about the USB port on the PC? Have you unplugged the Nano and tried to connect to something else? Maybe a thumbdrive? There is every reason to believe the port is fried. 12V into a 5V system doesn't usually end well. OTOH, the bridge chip may have protected the PC. Until it is tested, there isn't much to say about the port.
I think you should check that USB port and I would most certainly not plug the defective Nano into any system I cared about.
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