Yeah, that's close to the plot I got. Both coils are symmetric and total sender resistance is supposed to run from ~0 to ~170 ohm. I think there are 80 turns of 38ga nichrome wire, or ~4 feet for each coil.
~0 ohms is supposed to be the full down position, or just past having the propeller axis horizontal. I imagine you want greater sensitivity in the range when the prop is in the water, and when the prop comes out of the water you don't really care much exactly where it is, you'd just want to know when the motor is fully up for trailering, so the sender is less responsive on the up side. It actually matches the trim controls. When trimming up, there is a limit switch that stops upward trim just before the prop comes out of the water, then to continue up you have press the "Trailer" button. It's a safety feature because you wouldn't want the prop coming up above the surface hacking your water sports enthusiasts up, putting a damper on things.
The sender is 36 years old and a couple of the loops on the open coil next to the connection node were broken. When I unscrewed the coil, the bakelite insulator started splitting into pieces. Both coils have lose floppy coils and are shorting out. I wanted to remake it. Before taking it apart I was expecting that the coils would be shorted or in series at the extremes, until I saw the shorting bar under one of them, so that makes using a single coil less desirable.