Electronics > Beginners
Can a variable thermal shut off circuit be build?
coppercone2:
what components are you using that are rated for 100 amps and dont come with a stud bolt mount?
even diode bridges past 50 amps come with screw mount studs. If you have components that use screws, get a bus bar, properly attach it to a thick wire, put a thermostat into the bus bar (screw it on) and use that I guess. And put touch safety stuff.
And like someone already said you might want to get 2 power supplies like the guy said, a lower current one (say a 10A one) to catch obvious failures without explosions or worry that a circuit safety will malfunction to increase your safety factor. Ramp that one slowly to 10A then ramp the big one slowly to 100A
coppercone2:
high power components look like this typically *****
***
you can use
https://www.mcmaster.com/bus-bars
*find upper threshold of safety for specifiying the thermostat
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/selco/ca-85/70098628/?gclid=CjwKCAjwyqTqBRAyEiwA8K_4O7G4-PS2s0J7TDW5lLwfAPH2xlNubC6u-QXeqLo3FaUJz7ew4_1OTRoC_aoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
coppercone2:
anyone reminded of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/This_Island_Earth by this thread?
David Hess:
--- Quote from: coppercone2 on August 06, 2019, 10:39:44 pm ---anyone reminded of https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/This_Island_Earth by this thread?
--- End quote ---
I know nothing of what you are referring to. Now hand me that AB619 model condenser from Directory Electronic Service Unit 16 of Supreme Equipment so I can finish my interocitor.
CatalinaWOW:
Unfortunately the thermostats recommended in the last few posts don't meet friedmules criteria of adjustability. I like the idea of using one as a safety backup, with the thermostat selected for the highest desired temperature. Of course he could have a whole string of these with set points at temperature intervals and a multipole switch to tie the appropriate one into the circuit.
The thermal controller I suggested earlier will work fine as an adjustable limit. It is a PID controller, but just set the I and D terms to zero and it becomes an on off switch at the set temperature. As mentioned in some earlier posts it is well worth putting a latch on the output so the power is not turned on again as the device cools. There are many ways to do the latching function, including latching relays, a deadman switch on mains power that is held by the normal power supply output and various electronic types. All of these, even though they may be relatively high power are merely the drive for the contactor you will need for the high current circuit.
Do pay attention to all of the safety warnings, and also spend time thinking through all of the possible actions. Thinking becomes increasingly important as the danger goes up, and with you are well into welding and fire starting territory.
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