Author Topic: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for  (Read 8923 times)

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Offline MoriambarTopic starter

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2019, 08:22:18 am »
At some point, choosing equipment by consensus is a waste of time.  Everybody likes what they have, they dislike what they just got rid of (with reason) and it all breaks down with no definitive answers.  There is always something just a little better for a little more money.  And buying used is truly a risk.  Sometimes it works out, sometimes not so much.  Sellers almost never pay return shipping so you are out money even if you can send it back.

Drive a stake in the ground, buy something and don't look back.  Years from now, if you need something else, sell what you have and buy it.   In the meantime you will have gotten years of usage and gained a real awareness of what you like or dislike in some type of equipment.
thanks.

Yes I think that I achieved what I aimed for with this topic: get guidance among the items I already pre-selected. I'll buy asap.

Cheers
 

Offline Calvin

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2019, 09:49:00 am »
Hi,

@ #17
Quote
I would rather not buy electronic equipment based on aesthetics
Me neither. And the reply was not about aesthetics of a device but useability.
When the layout design is such that You loose on easy and intuitive handling, if You have to look twice what is what and where, then the layout simply sucks.


regards
Calvin
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Offline Wolfgang

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #27 on: February 22, 2019, 10:48:19 am »
... well, even easiness and usability are personal judgements. Me personally never had to think what the buttons on my 832 could mean.
Being one of the worlds best selling PSUs handling problems dont see to be very common.  :)
 

Offline forrestc

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2019, 10:51:44 am »
500+VAT in italy is 610€ (albeit on ebay I find it for over 600€); so it would be 488 with 20% off (if one can find that: do you have any hints on where to look for it?). It's still over my budget by almost 100€.
It could be nice, I trust you, but it's simply too expensive unfortunately. I could do with about 40% off!

Batronix currently has the DP832 for $498.61 inclusive of VAT w/free shipping.    I have a DP832A on my bench and am perfectly happy with it, and would wholeheartedly recommend it.   If something happened where I had to start my bench over, this would be on my short list of things to buy.   If it was a hobbiest bench, I'd probably skip the 'A' and just buy the DP832.   I also can't think of many reasons why one would want to spend more than this on a supply.   I could use a bit higher voltage and current on occasion for my applications (which is why I have a Sorensen LHP-60-18 sitting under the DP832A).  Sometimes people need certain other specs.

However, I truly understand the budget thing.   Here's the deal:   If I was budget constrained I'd go a completely different path.   For most purposes, the quality of a power supply isn't all that important as long as it provides enough power, is fairly well regulated, and doesn't fail regularly or in a way that destroys the item attached to it.   Most electronics is ok within 10% of the stated voltage (i.e. a 5V rail can be from 4.5 to 5.5V).   Most supplies are also pretty good at staying where you set them, even if the display isn't all that accurate.    So, I wouldn't bother spending hardly any money at all.

I'd probably start by buying one of the modules Dave talks about on EEVblog 1030:

 

Taking this, I'd go find an appropriate power supply at the top end of the range for the supply module.   It wouldn't be surprising to be able to pick up a surplus power supply from a laptop at a thrift store (appx 20V), and then use one of these to get a 0-18V supply for a grand total of under 30EUR.   

When I'm doing hobbiest type electronics here, I often don't bother with the variable power supply and just use a wall transformer or a USB power supply.    So for the second supply, I might just forego the variable supply and collect a set of wall adapters of interest.   You'll probably want ones in the 5V, 9V and 12V range.  Be aware that some of the older ones aren't regulated so for example 9V supply would put out much higher voltage until it is placed under load.   Any newer switching ones (the small light ones) will put out pretty close to the exact voltage.  They'll also be short circuit protected at some multiple of the rated voltage.     I have several 5V USB adapters that are from reputable sources that I use quite often, and then a couple 9V and 12V ones for things which need higher voltage.

One reason that I end up not using a variable power supply is that I ended up buying some small power supplies which plug directly into the power bus of a breadboard and take either a 5V usb in or a 9V wall transformer (depending on the model - I have two), and then spits out either 3.3V or 5V on the rail depending on the setting of a couple of switches/jumpers.   With this, most protyping projects I do I don't need anything other than the wall transformer.

Now, I know you wanted something quick and that you know works, so this may not be appealing to you.  In this case, don't overlook some of the lower cost single-output devices - like the KORAD KD3005D on the same site you linked to earlier.   For a hobbiest this is just fine, and the advantage of a single output device when you're talking a cheap supply is that if/when it dies, you still have a working power supply.   Versus a dual one you may or may not have one channel working.   Added bonus if you buy two separate types/brands since what kills one is less likely to kill them both.

 
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Offline tautech

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #29 on: February 23, 2019, 02:38:58 am »
Anyway, in a couple of days I'll decide, but I probably will choose the SPD3303C, because it seems the best I can afford apparently (and especially among the ones I suggested), unless something else pops up.
Don't, get the SPD3303X-E instead and unlock it to an X model and get the 1mV/mA resolution.
The Siglent .ads thread has the unlock info, it's very simple.

The display is much nicer and more informative than the older C models.

The Hamburg and USA Siglent websites haven't been updated to show the newer GUI that was implemented in firmware after the X/X-E were released.
The Shenzhen website shows how they look now:
http://www.siglent.com/ENs/pdxx.aspx?id=1132&T=2&tid=17
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Offline MoriambarTopic starter

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #30 on: February 23, 2019, 08:40:53 am »
Anyway, in a couple of days I'll decide, but I probably will choose the SPD3303C, because it seems the best I can afford apparently (and especially among the ones I suggested), unless something else pops up.
Don't, get the SPD3303X-E instead and unlock it to an X model and get the 1mV/mA resolution.
The Siglent .ads thread has the unlock info, it's very simple.

The display is much nicer and more informative than the older C models.

The Hamburg and USA Siglent websites haven't been updated to show the newer GUI that was implemented in firmware after the X/X-E were released.
The Shenzhen website shows how they look now:
http://www.siglent.com/ENs/pdxx.aspx?id=1132&T=2&tid=17

Well, I actually do not see the added value for 1.5x the price (I mean, I will have to save some extra money to get the x-e since it's out of budget practically). I mean: do I really need the 1mV/1mA? I cannot see how. Apart from the GUI revamp (nice but not worth 150€), I actually do not see what else this unit gives that I can use:
  • Power consumption (I don't actually care about it)
  • Save/recall function (I actually do not have the need for it, it's nice but comes at a price)
  • Timing info and pc interaction I really really do not care about

Perhaps there's something else I don't know about and I'm missing it. Please point that out if it is so. As it stands I think that paying a lot more money to have functionalities that really don't fit with my usage it's a waste of money.

As rstofer said:
At some point, choosing equipment by consensus is a waste of time.  Everybody likes what they have, they dislike what they just got rid of (with reason) and it all breaks down with no definitive answers.  There is always something just a little better for a little more money.  And buying used is truly a risk.  Sometimes it works out, sometimes not so much.  Sellers almost never pay return shipping so you are out money even if you can send it back.

Drive a stake in the ground, buy something and don't look back.  Years from now, if you need something else, sell what you have and buy it.   In the meantime you will have gotten years of usage and gained a real awareness of what you like or dislike in some type of equipment.

I think there's no extra value in the x/xe model for me, but as a beginner I might be wrong!
« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 08:44:54 am by Moriambar »
 
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Offline Calvin

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #31 on: February 23, 2019, 02:13:18 pm »
Hi,

"well, even easiness and usability are personal judgements."
Well, Yes and No  ;)
Of course does personal judgement play an important role, but there are certain common design rules that lead to an easy and intuitive layout.

Examples:
Rigol DP832A:
- distance between the connectors is all the same and quite close --> arrange + and - connectors as (channel)groups for easy identification
- Channel On/Off switches left-to-right arrangement (1-2-3) differs from that of the Display (1-3-2)  --> no words, just  :palm:
- Channel On/Off switches situated just on the opposite rim of the casing far off of the associated connectors --> simply  |O
- "All" channel button appears logically as part of the encoder/Keypad block -->  :scared:
- radially segmented display with almost an overkill of information and hence mostly very small Fonts --> arrange either horizontaly or vertically, reduce the number count of infos and allow for large easy to read Fonts for the most important infos.
- arrangement of infos differ between channels. For ch 1 and 2 it´s vertical, for ch3 its mixed hor/vert -->  :-//
- redundant infos on a anyhow crowded display. The center circle repeats the set value of the highlighted channel -->  why?? :rant:
- 36 buttons, 1 knob, 1 switch -->  :wtf:
- 11 (!!! if I counted correctly) different button shapes -->  ::)
- and finally -and just for optics- the mains power switch  :-DD :-DD  :clap: :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:  :clap:

Of course it is not easy to layout the front for intuitive easy handling when you have to cope with so much functionality.
Still Rigol could have done a much much better job here ... and on almost all of their new devices.
They employ hundreds of engineers in their R&D department .... but why not a single competent industrial designer?

You expected a same layout within the family? Well, not with Rigol darling!  :-DD
Rigol DP831A
- channel arrangement in the display is 2-1-3 -->  :o
- channel connectors layout is not highvoltage/highvoltage/lowvoltage (DP832A) but just the opposite LV/HV/HV

Siglent SPD3303X
- connectors are arranged in groups -->   :-+
- On/Off buttons in proximity to the connectors  -->  :-+
- channel arrangement in display coincides with connector layout -->  :-+
- no display for third channel -->   :--
- Fonts for ´secondary´ infos very small -->  :--
- 15 buttons in only 3 shapes and arranged logically in groups -->  :-+
- noy keypad for quick and easy programming -->  :--
- CC/CV LEDS situated right above the channel´s connectors -->   :-+

Siglent SPD3303C
- connectors are arranged in groups -->   :-+
- On/Off buttons in proximity to the connectors  -->  :-+
- channel arrangement in display coincides with connector layout -->  :-+
- no display for third channel -->   :--
- only most important infos shown -->  :-- :-+
- large easy to read and color-coded Fonts -->  :-+
- 15 buttons in only 3 shapes and arranged logically in groups -->  :-+
- CC/CV LEDS situated right above the channel´s connectors -->   :-+

The Siglent layouts are not perfect either, but they certainly did a much better job than Rigol.
Display infos are easier to recognize and to read, with the 3303C beeing the easiest (admittedly no big deal to get that title with the least of infos on display).
Buttons, knobs and connectors are clearly arranged in amore logical way and are more intuitive to handle.
If it were for same specs and functionality I´d rather choose the device with the clearly better layouted front and UI.

regards
Calvin
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Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #32 on: February 23, 2019, 06:28:16 pm »
Honestly, I'd just go with the ubiquitous Korad 3005D-2S. It's relatively cheap, it does what you want and it's fairly convenient to use. If you can afford it you could consider a computer controllable power supply or one with a graphing screen, which are definitely nice-to-haves, but not as vital as a power supply you can beat on.
 
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Offline MoriambarTopic starter

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #33 on: February 23, 2019, 07:59:19 pm »
Honestly, I'd just go with the ubiquitous Korad 3005D-2S. It's relatively cheap, it does what you want and it's fairly convenient to use. If you can afford it you could consider a computer controllable power supply or one with a graphing screen, which are definitely nice-to-haves, but not as vital as a power supply you can beat on.

Thank you. I want my computer as far as possible from my bench so I don't know about the computer controllable one. Also I just need a PSU, I wouldn't know how to use the graphing or anything.

Cheers
 

Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #34 on: February 23, 2019, 08:39:39 pm »
Thank you. I want my computer as far as possible from my bench so I don't know about the computer controllable one. Also I just need a PSU, I wouldn't know how to use the graphing or anything.

Cheers
That Korad is a nicely positioned between the sketchy cheap units and the quite expensive fancy ones. It's not perfect, but it's safe and stable. It's more than good enough to use as a daily driver. The UI isn't terrible either, although some people have more problems with it than I have.
 
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Offline james_s

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2019, 10:32:22 pm »
I've used fancy programmable power supplies before and found most of them to be lacking in one way or another. I also have no need for computer control, given a choice I'll take old fashioned analog knobs and meters any day.
 

Offline rdl

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2019, 10:54:41 pm »
In my mind both Siglent and Rigol have too many drawbacks to work around. I could never have anything from Siglent on my bench knowing it was probably rusting away on the inside. And Rigol with their toy-like, cluttered up front panels just look stupid. I'll stick with my used HP, Agilent, and Tektronix stuff. If I lived in Europe I'd probably be looking for a used TTi or R&S power supply.
 

Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #37 on: February 24, 2019, 03:45:32 am »
In my mind both Siglent and Rigol have too many drawbacks to work around. I could never have anything from Siglent on my bench knowing it was probably rusting away on the inside. And Rigol with their toy-like, cluttered up front panels just look stupid. I'll stick with my used HP, Agilent, and Tektronix stuff. If I lived in Europe I'd probably be looking for a used TTi or R&S power supply.
People who buy Siglent or Rigol typically do so because buying HP, Agilent or Tektronix isn't viable. Buying old kit could be doable, but that has its own drawbacks.
 
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Offline james_s

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #38 on: February 24, 2019, 05:00:30 am »
I've almost exclusively bought used gear and it has worked out very well. The one time I remember I did buy a new Chinese bench DMM I pretty quickly found I hated it, sold it after a few months and bought a used Fluke 45.
 

Offline tautech

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #39 on: February 24, 2019, 05:16:34 am »
I could never have anything from Siglent on my bench knowing it was probably rusting away on the inside.
That statement implies you're not well read or well educated.

1. Any Siglent panel rust issues have been addressed some years ago and better zinc plated panel steel sourced.
2. Galvanized steel:
 If the zinc coating is scratched or otherwise locally damaged and steel is exposed, the surrounding areas of zinc coating form a galvanic cell with the exposed steel and protect it from corrosion. This is a form of localized cathodic protection - the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
3. If you think Siglent are the only instruments you will find rust in, think again as you're in some dream world.
4. I have a Tek TDS2012B with rusty chassis work but only on the cut edges, this is entirely normal.
5. The galv sheet that forms an instrument chassis is guillotined and punched, these processes shear the zinc plating and expose the parent steel which then starts to rust to a point where a process called Cathodic protection takes over and gives protection of the parent steel.To prove this process works for the non-believer, grind the zinc from a portion of galv steel and leave it in the weather....in will not rust unduly !


Todays educational lesson over.


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Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #40 on: February 24, 2019, 05:21:18 am »
I've almost exclusively bought used gear and it has worked out very well. The one time I remember I did buy a new Chinese bench DMM I pretty quickly found I hated it, sold it after a few months and bought a used Fluke 45.
YMMV. One isn't exactly a large sample group.
 

Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #41 on: February 24, 2019, 05:24:47 am »
That statement implies you're not well read or well educated.

1. Any Siglent panel rust issues have been addressed some years ago and better zinc plated panel steel sourced.
2. Galvanized steel:
 If the zinc coating is scratched or otherwise locally damaged and steel is exposed, the surrounding areas of zinc coating form a galvanic cell with the exposed steel and protect it from corrosion. This is a form of localized cathodic protection - the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
3. If you think Siglent are the only instruments you will find rust in, think again as you're in some dream world.
4. I have a Tek TDS2012B with rusty chassis work but only on the cut edges, this is entirely normal.
5. The galv sheet that forms an instrument chassis is guillotined and punched, these processes shear the zinc plating and expose the parent steel which then starts to rust to a point where a process called Cathodic protection takes over and gives protection of the parent steel.To prove this process works for the non-believer, grind the zinc from a portion of galv steel and leave it in the weather....in will not rust unduly !


Todays educational lesson over.
The lesson is that you're trying to peddle your kit. ;D Siglent had rust issues other manufacturers don't have, but recent units seem better. It's probably an example of budget conscious manufacturers learning where to cut corners and where not to do so.
 

Offline tautech

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #42 on: February 24, 2019, 05:33:10 am »
That statement implies you're not well read or well educated.

1. Any Siglent panel rust issues have been addressed some years ago and better zinc plated panel steel sourced.
2. Galvanized steel:
 If the zinc coating is scratched or otherwise locally damaged and steel is exposed, the surrounding areas of zinc coating form a galvanic cell with the exposed steel and protect it from corrosion. This is a form of localized cathodic protection - the zinc acts as a sacrificial anode.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
3. If you think Siglent are the only instruments you will find rust in, think again as you're in some dream world.
4. I have a Tek TDS2012B with rusty chassis work but only on the cut edges, this is entirely normal.
5. The galv sheet that forms an instrument chassis is guillotined and punched, these processes shear the zinc plating and expose the parent steel which then starts to rust to a point where a process called Cathodic protection takes over and gives protection of the parent steel.To prove this process works for the non-believer, grind the zinc from a portion of galv steel and leave it in the weather....in will not rust unduly !


Todays educational lesson over.
The lesson is that you're trying to peddle your kit. ;D Siglent had rust issues other manufacturers don't have, but recent units seem better. It's probably an example of budget conscious manufacturers learning where to cut corners and where not to do so.
::)
You too are not well read.

The original problem arose from a faulty batch of panel steel supplied to the company that made chassis for Siglent.
This has been discussed at length on at least a couple of occasions here over the years.

It is NOT as terminal for an instrument as crook PSU's or FRAM issues that some manufacturers have.
Avid Rabid Hobbyist.
Some stuff seen @ Siglent HQ cannot be shared.
 

Offline Mr. Scram

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #43 on: February 24, 2019, 06:13:21 am »
::)
You too are not well read.

The original problem arose from a faulty batch of panel steel supplied to the company that made chassis for Siglent.
This has been discussed at length on at least a couple of occasions here over the years.

It is NOT as terminal for an instrument as crook PSU's or FRAM issues that some manufacturers have.
Belittling people who don't buy into the excuses isn't the smartest of moves. Even if there was "a faulty batch" Siglent is solely responsible for the quality of the products it puts out. That's what internal quality control is for. Besides, the problems seem a bit too widespread for it to be a single batch.

Admitting a mistake and showing improvements have been made is fine. Blaming others and downplaying the issue is exactly what people expect from chancy Chinese manufacturers and exactly what they don't need if they want to move up in the world. Own your mistakes and people will respect you for it, like the manufacturer with FRAM issues is doing.
 

Offline Calvin

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2019, 07:32:45 am »
Hi,

as you said ... no manufacturer is perfect.
You can find countless threads and vids about bugs, dodgyness, plain failure, ill design and construction of devices.
And You can tag any name plate on those threads, not just chinese.
Also there is no doubt that modern devices are way not manufactured as solid as old ones.
I assume nobody expects actual Tektronix/KS/Fluke/R&S/etc. devices to last 40years+ ... especially not their´budget lines´
Siglent has certainly done a great job with their X-series devices ... very capable devices, of course built to a price ad yes with some bugs at the beginning .... but then, why buy a A-Brand device with an hefty premium if its not proportionally better, or longer living, less buggy, or gives more reliable measurements?
As several threads hint Siglent  seems ´listening´ to what users critizise about and the bugfix and improvement update rate is above average.
I regard this as confidence generating behaviour .... they care about their products.

regards
Calvin

ps. to not give food to the impression of A-Brand bashing, here´s a 3-channel power supply where I find the layout of the front face simply excellent.
With 33 buttons 2 knobs, a power button and similar face area it almost equals the Rigol DP832A .... but whoaaah what a difference!!
btw. Welectron offers those ´on sale´ at the time for ~10% less.

« Last Edit: February 24, 2019, 07:42:00 am by Calvin »
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Offline tautech

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #45 on: February 24, 2019, 08:03:10 am »
::)
You too are not well read.

The original problem arose from a faulty batch of panel steel supplied to the company that made chassis for Siglent.
This has been discussed at length on at least a couple of occasions here over the years.

It is NOT as terminal for an instrument as crook PSU's or FRAM issues that some manufacturers have.
Belittling people who don't buy into the excuses isn't the smartest of moves. Even if there was "a faulty batch" Siglent is solely responsible for the quality of the products it puts out. That's what internal quality control is for. Besides, the problems seem a bit too widespread for it to be a single batch.

Admitting a mistake and showing improvements have been made is fine. Blaming others and downplaying the issue is exactly what people expect from chancy Chinese manufacturers and exactly what they don't need if they want to move up in the world. Own your mistakes and people will respect you for it, like the manufacturer with FRAM issues is doing.
I'll stick firmly to what I have posted and still call you unread.....or just too damn lazy to hunt out the appropriate threads, quotes and posts.  ::)

Catch up time, the most recent of this below is 3+ years old.
Start here:
UPDATE:
I have been informed that Siglent took the rusting issue seriously and have retooled their process to fix it. They are sending me the new production model so I can show the differences.  :-+
And:
Our products do not have rust problem now.
Dear Dave, I hope you won't ban my account Siglent cause I want to communicate with customers and hear their voice.
And:
Note: Do not want to start drama here, this is a serious question.
Ever since I watched Dave's tear down of the Siglent AWG that had copious rust on the internal surfaces of the enclosure, I have been put off by Siglent products in general.
I never found a follow-up to that issue, and in searching just saw some mention that "maybe the factory is by the sea".
Is there a follow-up that addressed this issue?

They fixed it.
And:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-they-filed-a-_wrongful-trademark-claim_/msg785401/#msg785401 (thread locked)
Post by EEVblog:
Quote
Quote from: ulix on October 26, 2015, 02:31:33 am
Was there ever a statement form them about the rust on the case? I don't think so. The only changed it.

Yes, they changed their process and fixed it.
They were very poor at communicating this though.
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Offline forrestc

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #46 on: February 24, 2019, 09:03:30 am »
Rigol DP832A:
- Channel On/Off switches left-to-right arrangement (1-2-3) differs from that of the Display (1-3-2)  --> no words, just  :palm:
- radially segmented display with almost an overkill of information and hence mostly very small Fonts --> arrange either horizontaly or vertically, reduce the number count of infos and allow for large easy to read Fonts for the most important infos.
- arrangement of infos differ between channels. For ch 1 and 2 it´s vertical, for ch3 its mixed hor/vert -->  :-//
- redundant infos on a anyhow crowded display. The center circle repeats the set value of the highlighted channel -->  why?? :rant:

The above have largely been fixed a couple/few years back:

See http://www.mjlorton.com/forum/index.php?topic=652.0

As far as the intuitive button placements - i.e. near the channels, etc, once you switch to the new "classic" display style things feel more intuitive.   Yes, there are some odd placements, but I will say that it didn't take me long to just commit to muscle memory where they are.

I will say that for me entering the actual voltage is a big plus, and it's pretty intuitive - push the channel button if necessary to select your channel (or note your channel is selected in the display), then start pushing numbers and decimal point.  Then push V, mV, mA or A as relevant.

« Last Edit: February 24, 2019, 09:05:30 am by forrestc »
 

Offline MoriambarTopic starter

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #47 on: February 24, 2019, 09:12:51 am »
In my mind both Siglent and Rigol have too many drawbacks to work around. I could never have anything from Siglent on my bench knowing it was probably rusting away on the inside. And Rigol with their toy-like, cluttered up front panels just look stupid. I'll stick with my used HP, Agilent, and Tektronix stuff. If I lived in Europe I'd probably be looking for a used TTi or R&S power supply.
The fact is that new = warranty (at least 2 years). Old = no guarantee. Also old = has already lasted for a number of years so its lifespan is (theoretically) shorter.
I actually have no real clue how to repair any of these if they fail me and that would translate in money loss. This not taking into account the fact that used stuff is usually (albeit not always) sold by normal people and not trusted sellers.

That's why I would never spend on used stuff: the risk of wasting money is too damn high and I do not have the luxury of wasting any money.
 

Offline james_s

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #48 on: February 24, 2019, 06:44:35 pm »
I've almost exclusively bought used gear and it has worked out very well. The one time I remember I did buy a new Chinese bench DMM I pretty quickly found I hated it, sold it after a few months and bought a used Fluke 45.
YMMV. One isn't exactly a large sample group.

Do I really have to point out that I'm not the only one here who has used gear? Thousands of people buy used gear and for most it works out just fine. Older higher end equipment tends to be very well made.
 

Offline MoriambarTopic starter

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Re: Choosing a PSU, what should I look for
« Reply #49 on: February 24, 2019, 06:47:24 pm »
I've almost exclusively bought used gear and it has worked out very well. The one time I remember I did buy a new Chinese bench DMM I pretty quickly found I hated it, sold it after a few months and bought a used Fluke 45.
YMMV. One isn't exactly a large sample group.

Do I really have to point out that I'm not the only one here who has used gear? Thousands of people buy used gear and for most it works out just fine. Older higher end equipment tends to be very well made.
Of course you're right. Everyone buys at their own risk. I simply cannot afford the risk.
 


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