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Choosing a PSU, what should I look for

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Inno_Dim:
Well I'm a newbie here, so please be kind to me.
It happens to own a korad KA3005P, so far so good. But when I use it to recharge lithium batteries voltage drops across my crappy-long wires, so I had to adjust every now and then, the output voltage in order I have fixed voltage across my load (i.e. batteries)
To overcome this issue I decided to add remote sensing feature in my korad. What I did is described here:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Remote-Sensing-for-Korad-Power-Supply/


So now if anyone goes to buy a korad, should have in mind that with virtually no cost, and with some labor time can add remote sensing capability to korad.
Feel free to ask me any question about this modification and/or suggest me ways to improve it. :D

rstofer:

--- Quote from: Calvin on February 23, 2019, 02:13:18 pm ---Hi,

"well, even easiness and usability are personal judgements."
Well, Yes and No  ;)
Of course does personal judgement play an important role, but there are certain common design rules that lead to an easy and intuitive layout.

Examples:
Rigol DP832A:
- distance between the connectors is all the same and quite close --> arrange + and - connectors as (channel)groups for easy identification

--- End quote ---

Manufactured shorting links and shorting jumpers assume a connector spacing of exactly 3/4".  So do dual plugs.
 Dave was very critical of a piece of equipment where the manufacturer deviated from this standard.

https://www.pomonaelectronics.com/products/hardware/double-banana-plug-solderless

Jwillis:

--- Quote from: Moriambar on February 19, 2019, 07:37:19 pm ---Hey there.
I am in need of a PSU. The old unit that was gifted me (it has at least 30 years) is not enough anymore.
I usually do not do much power-stuff, and also am kinda on a budget (I can spend up to around 400€ if the benefits are so huge to justify that, but perhaps I do not need expensive things).

I basically need:

* at least two outputs
* at least two of the outputs should be able to go to ~20/30V
* 2A are enough, although I know that 3A is usually quite standard. I normally do not need more than 1A
* short circuit protection is ESSENTIAL since otherwise I would blow up everything after the first 10 minutes
* perhaps, as a beginner, there's something else I need that I do not know
* best if seller is europe-based
After gathering all these requirements, I found (on a seller website) the following products. I actually do not know how to choose because basically I cannot justify the price difference in any way. Also, albeit on a budget, I do not want to buy absolute crap. So here we are

Number one is a KORAD KD3305D (never heard of KORAD before) https://www.welectron.com/Korad-KD3305D-Labornetzteil_1 Datasheet. It's really cheap, and it seems to have everything I need, although I do not know whether it is ok/reliable.

Next is another KORAD, KA3305P https://www.welectron.com/Korad-KA3305P-Benchtop-Power-Supply Datasheet. It costs a little more. No clue what the difference is, apart from having a single knob instead of one knob per channel…

Now I've got a SIGLENT, SPD3303C https://www.welectron.com/Siglent-SPD3303C-Benchtop-Power-Supply . It costs almost 100€ more than the first Korad. Apart from the siglent brand, I do not know why since it delivers less power than the korad at a lower resolution too.

Finally, the monster, which is basically kinda an overbudget thing (but if it's remarkably better than the others I'm willing to make), the Siglent SPD3303X-E, which costs 2.5 times the first korad; https://www.welectron.com/Siglent-SPD3303X-E-Benchtop-Power-Supply datasheet. It seems that the price is justified by a nicer interface and a better connectivity which I do not care about, but perhaps there's more to it I'm missing.


So after all of this I actually do not know. Is there anything better out there for my purpose, that I simply ignored just going to one seller? Which one do you think is best for my needs?

Thanks to anyone who will help me choose and understand better. Cheers

--- End quote ---

Many bells and whistles tend to be unused by average hobbyists.
Although the Siglent is nice ask yourself if you need data linking. That's an extra that brings up the price.Data linking is used in an assembly line environment so all your workers are running the voltages they need for the station they are at.
Memory is nice if your a total klutz  because you can lock in a parameter and not worry as much. But do you really need it.
2 or more  channel  supplies can be paralleled or put in series so a 2 channel 0- 3 amp 0-30v configured for parallel will give 6amps 0-30v. and series will give 3amp at 0 -60v.
Personally I find that the less complex something is the less likely things go wrong and easier to repair.
400 euro here is over 600 dollars .Heck I would buy 2 simple power supplies instead of one fancy one.But hey its your money.


james_s:
I feel the same way, for hobby bench use nothing beats old fashioned analog knobs on a power supply. Simple, reliable, easy to use, the computerized bells & whistles just add more complexity and more to go wrong.

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