I would remove the NAND gate and feed your clock directly into the CP pin to get it to count.
You will need to do a MR to get it to pre-load and then count down after MR is removed.
You would find it more helpful if you examined the control lines and just looked at some of the lower output count pins if your logic analyzer is only 8 bits wide.
You only need a few LSB bits to determine if it is doing anything.
See the Function Table in the datasheet (L=Low, H=High, x=Don't care):
Apply Reset then remove.
RESET:
MR=L, PL=x, PE=x, TE=x
COUNT DOWN:
MR=H, PL=H, PE=H, TE=L