Basically any of them will work there. The ungraded one is just tested on the line ( hopefully) and is not graded, or is the selection that is out of either the top or bottom gain selections so may work perfectly or not at all. This is often the case that the cheapest components like transistors are not tested fully during manufacture, just are done on a sample basis. The A,B,C ones have had a simple gain test during production and are binned into the 3 grades as they test out. Often the cheapest is not the lowest gain but typically the mid, where the processing places most of the devices.
The reason why you might want a gain group is that some circuits need a gain in a certain range to operate correctly, and ones with too high or too low a gain may not operate properly over the full operating condition range, or may saturate near full signal level.