Electronics > Beginners
Copperless perfboard + wire wrap for RF prototyping?
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hendorog:
Here is a good example of RF lego, will need a fairly fat wallet though!

https://www.xmicrowave.com/

Canis Dirus Leidy:

--- Quote from: bd139 on September 08, 2019, 01:33:37 pm ---I can't get on with that. I use a Stanley knife, metal ruler and peel the strips off with pliers.

--- End quote ---
The “classical” technique involves the use of a simple device made of a brass spacer and two old dental drills:

(Photos taken from here)
But of course, there are many options. From spade drills, to homemade burrs from a thin-walled steel tube.
tggzzz:

--- Quote from: aneevuser on September 09, 2019, 09:48:22 am ---One other question: I have no single sided board at the moment, but I have some veroboard. Will I have any joy using the copper side of the veroboard as a makeshift ground plane by bridging the tracks with wire, and using dead bug construction on the other side? Or is there too little copper to make this worthwhile?

--- End quote ---

Depends on the frequencies involved. (Remember, for digital signals, the frequency is defined by the risetime, not the period.)

Any wire is an inductor, rule of thumb 1nH/mm, but a broad flat trace will have a lower inductance.

Any two parallel wires form a capacitor and a transformer.

There are calculators available to estimate the magnitude of the effects.
fourfathom:
Of course Amazon has a wide assortment of inexpensive single and double-sided clad boards, perfboards, etc.  Get the fiberglass (FR4) boards, not the phenolic ones.  I've purchased these before and they were fine:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-150x100mm-Double-Sided-Thickness-Prototyping/dp/B07R49DXN8/
aneevuser:
In the light of the postings above, I'm just going to confirm that wireless breadboard is absolutely insidious when it comes to constructing resonant circuits: I've largely ignored the advice above, and I've continued to play around with tank circuits on breadboard, which I've been driving from a sig. gen. through a fixed resistor (I've been swapping in different values to see how it affects Q). These have been behaving largely as expected.

This afternoon, I swapped the fixed resistor for a variable, and I was baffled to see that I was now getting voltage gain from the top of the tank. It took me over an hour to figure out that in fact I'd managed to construct a series LC circuit, where the series C was due to the capacitance between the legs of the variable resistor which were in adjacent rows of the board - in fact, the circuit worked unchanged if I removed the resistor completely, and merely relied on the capacitive coupling between the rows.

This is, on the one hand, painful, and on the other, very instructive.
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